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rings on KH24 inside out?

Started by Klaas Bil · · Last activity · 7 posts · 261 views

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01 / Original postrings on KH24 inside out?Klaas Bil · 30 Oct 2005 02 / This pagePosts 1–7Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #7kington99 · 31 Oct 2005

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
30 October 2005
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31 October 2005
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Klaas Bil
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  1. Original post
    Klaas Bil
    Archived post
    #1

    I remember having read about the mud guard rings on the KH24 that
    sometimes have to be turned inside out but I can't find it back, so
    here's a story and then a question.

    Recently I have experienced main cap problems on the KH24 (2003 model,
    I think). The bolts that hold the main caps would come loose
    repeatedly, so I had to carry an Allen wrench on the ride to tighten
    them again. I would tighten them to the extent that the wheel still
    turns freely, which wasn't very tight.

    Yesterday I had the cranks and the rings off the hub. (With rings I
    mean shiny metal disks, not quite flat, that go around the splined
    part of the hub. I think they act as a barrier to mud getting to the
    bearings.) I then tightened the main cap bolts and found that I could
    tighten them much further before the wheel would bind. Hey, this way
    they would come loose I think! Then I put the rings on, as well as the
    cranks. Surprise: the wheel had a LOT of friction. It turned out that
    the cranks had pushed the rings 'into' the bearing holders, but the
    rings were slightly too large so they rubbed.

    Is this the problem to which the solution is to mount these rings
    inside out? Yeah, they might then run outside the bearing holders, but
    they would act as mud CATCHERS rather than mud guards - not nice. It
    seems to me that this is a design error in the rings, and that it
    would best be resolved by grinding a little bit of material off the
    outside of the rings.

    Comments please.

    Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
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  2. kington99
    Archived post
    #2

    Normally they sit with the flat side innermost, and they should just sit
    outside the bearing houses. Make sure that the to spacers that are
    fitted are the rigth way round, because one is thick and one is thin,
    if you have removed them. The other thing is that the early frames have
    no kind of lip or edge on the bearing holders, this means that if the
    clamps are loose the legs can splay out and come in to contact with the
    'flying saucer' as it is usually known, resulting in the grinding as
    described. The thing to do in this case is to loosen the clamp bolts,
    push the fork legs in together until they are poperly located and then
    tighten them to hold them in place. Get some locktite on those clamp
    bolts and they'll hold in place much better.

    --
    kington99

    Dave

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  3. Klaas Bil
    Archived post
    #3
    kington99 said:

    Make sure that the to spacers that are
    fitted are the rigth way round, because one is thick and one is thin,
    if you have removed them.

    I have indeed removed them, and never checked for a difference. Are
    they really different? With the whole thing put together, they look
    the same.

    Quoted message said:

    The other thing is that the early frames have
    no kind of lip or edge on the bearing holders

    Mine have.

    Quoted message said:

    Get some locktite on those clamp
    bolts and they'll hold in place much better.

    That wouldn't hurt anyways.

    ==>> Could someone comment on my suggested solution to grind the
    flying saucers a little bit smaller??

    Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
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  4. kington99
    Archived post
    #4

    Oh they most certainly are different, not by much i grant you, but
    enough to cause serious problems. I rebuilt my Nimbus Muni with a KH
    hub a couple of years ago and spent ages getting them the right way
    round. I can't remeber which way they're meant to be, but obviously
    there's only two ways, so swap them and see, you might well have the
    thin ones on the outisde instead of the thick ones. The thickness
    difference is only really apparent if you lay them side by side on a
    flat surface, just holding them they look pretty much the same.

    --
    kington99

    Dave

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  5. Klaas Bil
    Archived post
    #5
    kington99 said:

    thin ones on the outisde instead of the thick ones.

    Hey wait a minute... Am I supposed to have four of these things, i.e.
    two on each side? I thought I had only one per side, at any rate I'm
    quite sure I only removed one per side. And so I understood from what
    you said that they were different left versus right. If there are two
    per side, then probably the small one goes inside and runs within the
    bearing holder, whereas the larger one runs outside it. But I'll have
    to check what exactly I have, two or four.

    Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
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  6. TonyMelton
    Archived post
    #6

    Yes this is the problem to which the easy solution is to turn the
    'flying saucer' washers around. Just leave the other spacers as they
    are.

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  7. kington99
    Archived post
    #7

    There are two per side, the threading sequence goes spacer, bearing,
    spacer, flying saucer, crank. If you removed the crank while the wheel
    was built in to the frame then the bearings and the spacers behind them
    would have been held captive, and thus you would only have removed the
    outside spacer from each side, so you can't have got them wrong.

    --
    kington99

    Dave

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