Ultraglide Freehub

Simon Cooper said:

I have an old 6speed 105 hub with UG freehub, which is a bit rough, and
struggles if you pedal backwards at all, plus the 4th sproket has 2 broken
teeth. Axle bearings are great.
- Does the freehub body attach in the same was as (more) modern HG freehubs?
I acquired a recent shimano hub with such a freehub, but couldn't budge it
once I'd taken the axle out.
- Any recommendations as to how to get it out? I suspect I'd be better off
with a bench vise to hold it since it's not in a wheel.
- Shimano's website only has exploded views, etc for current range - are
there any archives around?

Try a 10mm allen into the center of the freehub body. If it will come
off, this will take it off. If this will not remove it, ie, no allen
wrench 'flats' , it is one of the early ones that were permenantly
attached to the hub body.

Quoted message said:

My wife had an old Univega bike bought for her from an LBS about 2 years
ago, and she's ridden it about as much as the original owner, so the frame's
basically pristine still. However, it has cheap single walled rims, and
both have now gone out of round, with a significant lump in the rear, feels
very odd to ride. So using this 105 based wheel on this instead now (has
the plus side of taking it from 27" to more convenient 700C).

As advised try the 10 mm hex key. I'm still running some Shimano Sante
hubs on my commuter that I upgraded from 7 to 8 speed, uniglide to
hyperglide, by replacing the freehub body and swapping in a longer
axle.

Cheers,
Mike Davis

As advised try the 10 mm hex key. I'm still running some Shimano Sante
hubs on my commuter that I upgraded from 7 to 8 speed, uniglide to
hyperglide, by replacing the freehub body and swapping in a longer
axle.

Cheers,
Mike Davis

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Simon Cooper said:

I have an old 6speed 105 hub with UG freehub, which is a bit rough, and
struggles if you pedal backwards at all, plus the 4th sproket has 2

broken

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

teeth. Axle bearings are great.
- Does the freehub body attach in the same was as (more) modern HG

freehubs?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I acquired a recent shimano hub with such a freehub, but couldn't budge

it

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

once I'd taken the axle out.
- Any recommendations as to how to get it out? I suspect I'd be better

off

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

with a bench vise to hold it since it's not in a wheel.
- Shimano's website only has exploded views, etc for current range - are
there any archives around?

Try a 10mm allen into the center of the freehub body. If it will come
off, this will take it off. If this will not remove it, ie, no allen
wrench 'flats' , it is one of the early ones that were permenantly
attached to the hub body.

I was kind of hoping someone might know if this was likely ahead of having
to remove the axle; as such I had better get a bit more info down. It's a
model FH-1050, and I took a picture of the hub here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/swcooper/105Hub.jpg
I case that would assist anyone.

If not, I guess it's not so difficult to remove the axle...

Simon Cooper said:

It's a model FH-1050

Yes, a 1050 has the standard 10mm hollow allen key attachment and splined
interface common to nearly all the later Hyperglide hubs.

Quoted message said:

I acquired a recent shimano hub with such a freehub, but couldn't
budge it once I'd taken the axle out.

Quoted message said:

Any recommendations as to how to get it out? I suspect I'd be
better off with a bench vise to hold it since it's not in a wheel.

I've used a pipe wrench to grip hub shells that I don't plan to keep.

http://www.creative-network-factory.de/netzkunst/kytoml/CNF-Zange.jpg

Quoted message said:

Shimano's website only has exploded views, etc for current
range - are there any archives around?

You'll find a selection of exploded views going back to 1990 at:

http://www.fa-technik.adfc.de/Hersteller/Shimano/DIGEST.html

Note that the links to pdfs on the Shimano Europe site no longer work, as
the shimano-europe domain is no longer in use.

James Thomson

Simon Cooper said:

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Simon Cooper said:

I have an old 6speed 105 hub with UG freehub, which is a bit rough, and
struggles if you pedal backwards at all, plus the 4th sproket has 2

broken

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

teeth. Axle bearings are great.
- Does the freehub body attach in the same was as (more) modern HG

freehubs?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I acquired a recent shimano hub with such a freehub, but couldn't budge

it

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

once I'd taken the axle out.
- Any recommendations as to how to get it out? I suspect I'd be better

off

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

with a bench vise to hold it since it's not in a wheel.
- Shimano's website only has exploded views, etc for current range - are
there any archives around?

Try a 10mm allen into the center of the freehub body. If it will come
off, this will take it off. If this will not remove it, ie, no allen
wrench 'flats' , it is one of the early ones that were permenantly
attached to the hub body.

I was kind of hoping someone might know if this was likely ahead of having
to remove the axle; as such I had better get a bit more info down. It's a
model FH-1050, and I took a picture of the hub here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/swcooper/105Hub.jpg
I case that would assist anyone.

If not, I guess it's not so difficult to remove the axle...

Sounds like your problem is getting the HG freehub off your recently
acquired hub. If you have an old rim and some spokes laying around it
makes life easier. I've done this with a rim and eight spokes. just
lace them 90 degrees from each other, four to a side. No need to
tension them at all. After removing the axle apply the 10mm allen key
and you should have enough leverage to remove the freehub.

You'll probably want to use the axle from the new hub when you
reassemble your old one using the new freehub. Since your old hub is
probably spaced at 126mm, putting the rebuilt hub (probably at 130mm)
into your frame shouldn't be a problem.

The real question is, what about shifting? How many cogs are you
planning to use. If the newer freehub is "more modern" it's probably
not designed to be compatible with six cogs. You could however pile on
the first five cogs from your old setup, but the sixth cog on the old
UG system is threaded and serves as the lock ring. A thirteen tooth,
non-threaded cog (to match the tooth count in your picture) could be
put on, followed by some spacers and an HG lock ring. This would
remain compatible with your shifter and derailleur. Of course with a
six-speed UG rear, the bike just might have friction shifters. In this
case cog spacing isn't that big an issue.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

"John Everett" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Simon Cooper said:

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Simon Cooper wrote:
> I have an old 6speed 105 hub with UG freehub, which is a bit rough,

and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> struggles if you pedal backwards at all, plus the 4th sproket has 2

broken

Quoted message said:

> teeth. Axle bearings are great.
> - Does the freehub body attach in the same was as (more) modern HG

freehubs?

Quoted message said:

> I acquired a recent shimano hub with such a freehub, but couldn't

budge

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

it

Quoted message said:

> once I'd taken the axle out.
> - Any recommendations as to how to get it out? I suspect I'd be

better

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

off

Quoted message said:

> with a bench vise to hold it since it's not in a wheel.
> - Shimano's website only has exploded views, etc for current range -

are

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> there any archives around?

Try a 10mm allen into the center of the freehub body. If it will come
off, this will take it off. If this will not remove it, ie, no allen
wrench 'flats' , it is one of the early ones that were permenantly
attached to the hub body.

I was kind of hoping someone might know if this was likely ahead of

having

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

to remove the axle; as such I had better get a bit more info down. It's

a

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

model FH-1050, and I took a picture of the hub here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/swcooper/105Hub.jpg
I case that would assist anyone.

If not, I guess it's not so difficult to remove the axle...

Sounds like your problem is getting the HG freehub off your recently
acquired hub. If you have an old rim and some spokes laying around it
makes life easier. I've done this with a rim and eight spokes. just
lace them 90 degrees from each other, four to a side. No need to
tension them at all. After removing the axle apply the 10mm allen key
and you should have enough leverage to remove the freehub.

You'll probably want to use the axle from the new hub when you
reassemble your old one using the new freehub. Since your old hub is
probably spaced at 126mm, putting the rebuilt hub (probably at 130mm)
into your frame shouldn't be a problem.

The real question is, what about shifting? How many cogs are you
planning to use. If the newer freehub is "more modern" it's probably
not designed to be compatible with six cogs. You could however pile on
the first five cogs from your old setup, but the sixth cog on the old
UG system is threaded and serves as the lock ring. A thirteen tooth,
non-threaded cog (to match the tooth count in your picture) could be
put on, followed by some spacers and an HG lock ring. This would
remain compatible with your shifter and derailleur. Of course with a
six-speed UG rear, the bike just might have friction shifters. In this
case cog spacing isn't that big an issue.

7 speed HG is the goal. The existing picture, if you look carefully, should
show 2 broken teeth on the 4th sprocket. 7 should fit the body I have that's
currently seemingly welded to this other hub (which I've tried abusing with
a pipe wrench to no avail thus far - I'm trying to turn the allen key in the
"free" direction of the freehub, right?), and should fit 126mm spacing, I
believe. Maybe I better spoke up the other hub then.

The bike it's intended for has friction shifters, but I picked up another
bike Monday which has friction too, but needs a new shifter and rear mech,
so I'm thinking of just putting an STI lever (only made in 7sp upwards from
my estimations?) on this instead. My own main bike already has 7sp HG, so
it'd be nice to retain intercompatibility.

I have another question about this - STI levers are aero levers with hidden
brake cables, right - do the handlebars need to have the groove for the
brake cable for this to be sensible? I'm certain the ones I have don't. I
could use a punch to make one at a pinch I guess.

Thanks for all the responses.

Simon Cooper said:

I'm trying to turn the allen key in the "free" direction of the freehub,
right?)

Right.

Quoted message said:

STI levers are aero levers with hidden brake cables, right

Right.

- do the handlebars need to have the groove for the brake cable

Quoted message said:

for this to be sensible?

Not at all. Just tape the cable housing to the bar with electrical tape,
then wrap as normal.

James Thomson

Simon Cooper said:

7 speed HG is the goal. The existing picture, if you look carefully, should
show 2 broken teeth on the 4th sprocket. 7 should fit the body I have that's
currently seemingly welded to this other hub (which I've tried abusing with
a pipe wrench to no avail thus far - I'm trying to turn the allen key in the
"free" direction of the freehub, right?), and should fit 126mm spacing, I
believe. Maybe I better spoke up the other hub then.

The freehub securing bolt (10mm-keyed, hollow) is a normal, right-hand
threaded bolt. Remove it by turning the allen wrench counterclockwise.
Once you remove one of your freehubs you'll immediately figure out
that unlike a freewheel it won't be tightened with use.

jeverett3<AT>earthlink<DOT>net http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Simon Cooper said:

I have an old 6speed 105 hub with UG freehub, which is a bit rough, and
struggles if you pedal backwards at all, plus the 4th sproket has 2

broken

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

teeth. Axle bearings are great.
- Does the freehub body attach in the same was as (more) modern HG

freehubs?

-snip-

Quoted message said:

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Try a 10mm allen into the center of the freehub body. If it will come
off, this will take it off. If this will not remove it, ie, no allen
wrench 'flats' , it is one of the early ones that were permenantly
attached to the hub body.

Simon Cooper said:

I was kind of hoping someone might know if this was likely ahead of having
to remove the axle; as such I had better get a bit more info down. It's a
model FH-1050, and I took a picture of the hub here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/swcooper/105Hub.jpg
I case that would assist anyone.
If not, I guess it's not so difficult to remove the axle...

Yes FH-1050 has a 10mm allen wrench bolt securing the
cassette body to the hubshell and, yes, you can change it to
new 6, a 7 or an 8/9 body, probably with a longer axle.
Since it's open , clean well and rebuild with new grade 25
ball bearings.

There are various washers and seals between the cassette
body and hubshell of various models. Depending on your
choice of replacement cassette body you may use the old, new
or no spacer and ditto for the seal. Ensure the body
freewheels nicely after the bolt's tight
("tight" is 34.3~49Nm according to Shimano. A range of 42%
taken to a tenth. What's with that?)

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Simon Cooper wrote:
-snip-

Quoted message said:

I have another question about this - STI levers are aero levers with hidden
brake cables, right - do the handlebars need to have the groove for the
brake cable for this to be sensible? I'm certain the ones I have don't. I
could use a punch to make one at a pinch I guess.

The groove isn't critical.

Do not deform your alumimnum handlebar in any way.
Especially don't knock a groove in it with a series of blows
from a punch.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Quoted message said:

("tight" is 34.3~49Nm according to Shimano. A range of 42%
taken to a tenth. What's with that?)

I expect it's what happens when you have information in ft-lbs (or in-lbs)
and a Monkey doing the converting...

Thanks for your comments.

On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 02:24:28 -0500, "Simon Cooper" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

("tight" is 34.3~49Nm according to Shimano. A range of 42%
taken to a tenth. What's with that?)

I expect it's what happens when you have information in ft-lbs (or in-lbs)
and a Monkey doing the converting...

That's what I thought, but not so. There might be another measure in which
these become round numbers, but it's not inlbs.

Jasper