In article <[email hidden]>, Super Slinky
Quoted message said:Cameron said...
Quoted message said:
"Super Slinky" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:Sorry, dude, but your answer was just flat out wrong and everything you said was the exact
opposite of how rebound damping actually works.And yet we generally agree.
I guess I missed that part, but what the hey, I'm an agreeable person.
Quoted message said:Dude, relax! :-)
You underestimate my state of relaxation.
Quoted message said:That's where we partially disagree. In my experience, faster rebound works best especially when
riding fast, steep terrain. Obviously you would want the rebound to keep up with terrain
changes. However, on relentless up and down type trails that have constant roots and rocks going
both up and down, a little extra damping helps the tires roll over without bouncing off or
hanging up so much. Mainly where the grade and trail doesn't accommodate high speeds. But both
need to be balanced to the type of trail and fork/bike. Riding over a big root into a steep
descent with way too much front damping is a recipe for an endo. And riding a very rooty flat
section with little damping will cause a loss of momentum when the front rebounds faster than
you are crossing the obstacles.No disagreement there. If you are bouncing off anything because of rebound, then you need more
damping. And I would never claim that any setting is going to be perfect for every situation.Quoted message said:Quoted message said:2. You can fight bob by increasing rebound damping (slower rebound). This is good for climbing
or long smooth sections of trail or roadQuoted message said:Not really and issue for me, since both my trail bike and brand new FR/DH (!!) are FS. I usually
try to stay seated. However, riding my trail bike uphill on roads I prefer less damping. It
gives the fork a somewhat stiffer feel, since my hands spend more time at the same level. But on
rough trail climbs, I prefer more damping because it allows me to climb over obstacles with less
momentum loss.You lost me here. How does FS make bob not an issue? I also don't understand how less rebound
damping can give a fork a stiffer feel. But I'm not riding your bikes, so I won't argue about it.
The last sentence makes some sense because if the fork is packing up you will have effectively
less travel, which is a good thing going up hills. But what you really want is something that
actually reduces travel, like the Marzocchi ETA adjustment offers, or a lockout. I think part of
our communication problem is that you are talking about forks and when I talk about combatting
bob, I am speaking mainly about rear shocks. That is where the bob fighting action is. Rear shock
bob robs serious amounts of acceleration and top speed and can make you seasick spinning on the
small ring. That's why we have Brain shocks, SPV, VPP, NRS etc.
Hey guys, your discussion really helped me get the drill... (on what the rebound control is for)
Could you guys explain "fighting bob"? Do I want to fight him or what?
I know there is a move called "bob", but in the MTB context I am not being able to place it...
Or is Bob a regular on this newsgroup who thinks all suspension forks are evil, and there is a
reason for us not to be discussing this or he may read it and start a huge thread?
Can you guys believe that two days after I got my bike, the temperature dropped about 10 degrees
celsius/50 fahrenheit, and the forecast says rain until next thursday... Tomorrow I will go buy a
rainjacket and am getting the fleece out of the closet, and now I'm happy that I got the disks!!
Duby
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