Tools required to fit a new headset

Jerry said:

Hi

I wanted to have a go at fitting a new threaded headset, something I would
really like to learn to be able to do for myself. Can anyone tell which
special tools are particularly important to have? I already have a headset
press for installing the new headset into the head tube, but am not sure
whether it is necessary to have special tools to remove the old headset -
particularly the fork race, lower head cup and top head race. Some articles
seem to suggest this is not necessary as tools like screw drivers/socket
extensions or punches can do the job. But would that pose a high risk of
damage?

If you don't want to score the inside of the headtube, a bad thing, use
a proper cup removing tool, Looks like a rocket ship, with fins.

Quoted message said:

Also is it necessary to have a special tool to fit a new fork race?

You can pound it off, probably killing it or once again, use the proper
tool. I would say spend the $5 and let a good bike shop remove the old
stuff.

Quoted message said:

Thanks for any help
Jerry

a walmart machete plus heavy tap tap around!! opposite sides for the
crown race after heating with a propane torch
if there's a special thin headset nut-a pro tool with nut filed to the
tool works well
with a 12" channel locks - see HDepot - for the other nut when setting

the LBS-a complete LBS or machine shop is necessary to fit a new crown
race?

Jerry haysden@%no_sp*m%hotmail.com said:

I wanted to have a go at fitting a new threaded headset, something I would
really like to learn to be able to do for myself. Can anyone tell which
special tools are particularly important to have? I already have a headset
press for installing the new headset into the head tube, but am not sure
whether it is necessary to have special tools to remove the old headset -
particularly the fork race, lower head cup and top head race. Some articles
seem to suggest this is not necessary as tools like screw drivers/socket
extensions or punches can do the job. But would that pose a high risk of
damage?

Although special tools are available for this purpose, you can get by
using a simple punch to drive the cups and races off. Work it off slowly
by going around the perimeter of the piece -- if you try to whack it off
with just a couple blows the piece will run crooked and either damage the
frame, or piece, or both.

Quoted message said:

Also is it necessary to have a special tool to fit a new fork race?

The special tool for this is merely a section of pipe wide enough to slip
over the steer tube and drive the race into place. Make sure the driving
end is as close to perpendicular as you can make it, to drive the piece on
the seat evenly.

--

John ([email hidden])

Quoted message said:

a walmart machete plus heavy tap tap around!! opposite sides for the
crown race after heating with a propane torch
if there's a special thin headset nut-a pro tool with nut filed to the
tool works well
with a 12" channel locks - see HDepot - for the other nut when setting

the LBS-a complete LBS or machine shop is necessary to fit a new crown
race?

Any piece of pipe will do, use it like a slide hammer.
Smack briskly in midair and listen for the sound of the race
seating - klang klang klang KLING and you're seated.

Water pipe or gas pipe is soft enough to not damage a
hardened steel race. If yours is aluminum ( for a
cartridge) either get a proprietary adapter ( C King,
Stronglight, etc) or put a scrap aluminum /nylon headset
piece over the crown race to avoid damage.

The "proper" tool is an expensive Italian satin chromed
Campagnolo . . . piece of mild steel pipe. $2 at any
hardware store gets you effectively the same thing.

If your race is slit, you don't need a tool - just press it
home with your fingers.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Jerry said:

Hi

I wanted to have a go at fitting a new threaded headset, something I would
really like to learn to be able to do for myself. Can anyone tell which
special tools are particularly important to have?...

If the smaller tool does not work, try the larger one:
<http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/grc7077/$FILE/hammer%20-%20sledge.jpg>.

--
Tom Sherman - Fox River Valley

In article <[email hidden]>, Jerry

haysden@%no_sp*m%hotmail.com said:

Hi

I wanted to have a go at fitting a new threaded headset, something I would
really like to learn to be able to do for myself. Can anyone tell which
special tools are particularly important to have? I already have a headset
press for installing the new headset into the head tube, but am not sure
whether it is necessary to have special tools to remove the old headset -
particularly the fork race, lower head cup and top head race. Some articles
seem to suggest this is not necessary as tools like screw drivers/socket
extensions or punches can do the job. But would that pose a high risk of
damage?

Another opinion...Can you remove the headset cups/crown race without
special tools? Yes. But the concern, which you've hit upon, is should
you? For removal of the headset cups, I say no. Difficulty in obtaining
purchase with a punch or screwdriver often leads to damage to the
headset or, of more concern, the inner surface of the headtube; I
recommend buying the park tool, it's not that expensive.

But for the dozen or so times I've removed a headset's crown race, my
experience is that an off the shelf punch is more than adequate to the
task. Proceed gently; alternate the location of the punch to ensure
that the race doesn't jam at an angle during removal; watch you don't
mar the fork crown's finish with a wayward strike.

Quoted message said:

Also is it necessary to have a special tool to fit a new fork race?

I say no. I've made two 'hammers' - one for 1", another for 1 1/8"
headsets - from components available at the plumbing section of the
local hardware store. These tools are used in conjunction with aluminum
headset spacers to provide a better interface at the race. Some
considerations for your homemade tool: a) ensure that it doesn't make
contact with the crown race in the area in which the bearings ride; b)
the tool must be longer than the steerer - i.e., measure *before*
dropping in at the hardware store; c) should it be required, your tool
should be of a sufficient inner width (or use a spacer that is) that
will clear the steer tube's crown race seat - you don't want to jam the
tool onto steerer's crown race seat.

Using such a tool I've found the best way to proceed is to first grease
and lightly seat the race (so that it stays in place); then with the
tool (and if needed spacer) already over the steer tube tip the
assembly upside down, resting the tool on the floor (concrete
preferred); while holding the fork by its blades close to the crown,
raise it a few inches within the tool and, using your weight, bring it
down. Repeat until the race is fully seated.

Luke

Many thanks for the help folks. I think I'm going to go for the Park tool to
get the headset cups out and then see if I can use a punch to get the crown
race off and then use an improvised tool to fit the new crown race.

Thanks
Jerry

"Jerry" <haysden@%no_sp*m%hotmail.com> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Many thanks for the help folks. I think I'm going to go for the Park
tool to get the headset cups out and then see if I can use a punch to
get the crown race off and then use an improvised tool to fit the new
crown race.

Thanks
Jerry

Jerry, I was in the same position as you - shadetree bicycle mechanic.
Here are some experiences:

I tried pieces of pipe for setting the crown race, and about bent the
fork. Took it to a LBS and they used a slide hammer to set it in about
5 seconds, and didn't charge me a dime. I honestly think my fork had
unusually tight tolerances, making it hard to get on there.

I tried a threaded rod and big washers to press the headset, and never
could get things to line up right. After barely avoiding a disaster, a
friend pressed them in with his threaded rod. If I were to do it again
(without the proper tools) I would use a square of 1/4" steel with a hole
for the washer. Lots of surface area. The pro tools work real easy.

Setting the star nut, a friend did this for me too. It needs to be nice
and straight. The tool is cheap.

I've also seen the "rocket ship" work and it's pretty slick. I've used
the screwdriver method in automotive work, but the rocket ship is far far
better.

After all this, I'd take it to a LBS and let them do the headset stuff.
I'm very stubborn, independent, persistent and tenacious with hands-on
stuff, so I say that with much thought. But, I do have a LBS that lets
me use his tools if they're not really stacked up.

One other option - join a local bike club. Mine has a general email DL.
I spammed them once looking for a der hanger straightener to borrow, and
you wouldn't believe the enthusiastic replies!

Good luck with it.

Thanks for that Pat.

Well I'm making good progress - I got one of the Park rocket ships and it
got the old headcups out a treat and the fork race came out with fairly
easily with a bit of gentle persuasion from a chisel (I wasn't planning to
re-use it!).

I have ordered a Shimano STX (threaded) headset and I have a headset press.
The only complication seems to be that the STX has sealed cartridge bearings
and the Cyclus press doesn't come with any adapters to avoid pressing on
such bearings when installing it, so I am thinking of improvising my own
adapter - the adjustable cup from the old headset looks like it might do the
job nicely.

Thanks for the advice and pointers!

Jerry

"PatC" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Jerry" <haysden@%no_sp*m%hotmail.com> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Many thanks for the help folks. I think I'm going to go for the Park
tool to get the headset cups out and then see if I can use a punch to
get the crown race off and then use an improvised tool to fit the new
crown race.

Thanks
Jerry

Jerry, I was in the same position as you - shadetree bicycle mechanic.
Here are some experiences:

I tried pieces of pipe for setting the crown race, and about bent the
fork. Took it to a LBS and they used a slide hammer to set it in about
5 seconds, and didn't charge me a dime. I honestly think my fork had
unusually tight tolerances, making it hard to get on there.

I tried a threaded rod and big washers to press the headset, and never
could get things to line up right. After barely avoiding a disaster, a
friend pressed them in with his threaded rod. If I were to do it again
(without the proper tools) I would use a square of 1/4" steel with a hole
for the washer. Lots of surface area. The pro tools work real easy.

Setting the star nut, a friend did this for me too. It needs to be nice
and straight. The tool is cheap.

I've also seen the "rocket ship" work and it's pretty slick. I've used
the screwdriver method in automotive work, but the rocket ship is far far
better.

After all this, I'd take it to a LBS and let them do the headset stuff.
I'm very stubborn, independent, persistent and tenacious with hands-on
stuff, so I say that with much thought. But, I do have a LBS that lets
me use his tools if they're not really stacked up.

One other option - join a local bike club. Mine has a general email DL.
I spammed them once looking for a der hanger straightener to borrow, and
you wouldn't believe the enthusiastic replies!

Good luck with it.

Jerry said:

Thanks for that Pat.

Well I'm making good progress - I got one of the Park rocket ships and it
got the old headcups out a treat and the fork race came out with fairly
easily with a bit of gentle persuasion from a chisel (I wasn't planning to
re-use it!).

I have ordered a Shimano STX (threaded) headset and I have a headset press.
The only complication seems to be that the STX has sealed cartridge bearings
and the Cyclus press doesn't come with any adapters to avoid pressing on
such bearings when installing it, so I am thinking of improvising my own
adapter - the adjustable cup from the old headset looks like it might do the
job nicely.

Thanks for the advice and pointers!

Jerry

Those cart. bearings come right out. In fact, they may arrive in
plastic bags anyway. I would just make sure your press/adapters allow
you to press on the centers of the cups, not the edges. Different hs
makers require different approaches.

Robin Hubert

Thanks for the advice Robin, that is good news. Hopefully will be up and
running soon after I get the new headset!

Thanks for the help folks.

Jerry

"Robin Hubert" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Jerry said:

Thanks for that Pat.

Well I'm making good progress - I got one of the Park rocket ships and it
got the old headcups out a treat and the fork race came out with fairly
easily with a bit of gentle persuasion from a chisel (I wasn't planning
to re-use it!).

I have ordered a Shimano STX (threaded) headset and I have a headset
press. The only complication seems to be that the STX has sealed
cartridge bearings and the Cyclus press doesn't come with any adapters to
avoid pressing on such bearings when installing it, so I am thinking of
improvising my own adapter - the adjustable cup from the old headset
looks like it might do the job nicely.

Thanks for the advice and pointers!

Jerry

Those cart. bearings come right out. In fact, they may arrive in plastic
bags anyway. I would just make sure your press/adapters allow you to
press on the centers of the cups, not the edges. Different hs makers
require different approaches.

Robin Hubert

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

"Jerry" <haysden@%no_sp*m%hotmail.com> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Many thanks for the help folks. I think I'm going to go for the Park
tool to get the headset cups out and then see if I can use a punch to
get the crown race off and then use an improvised tool to fit the new
crown race.

Quoted message said:

PatC said:

Jerry, I was in the same position as you - shadetree bicycle mechanic.
Here are some experiences:
I tried pieces of pipe for setting the crown race, and about bent the
fork. Took it to a LBS and they used a slide hammer to set it in about
5 seconds, and didn't charge me a dime. I honestly think my fork had
unusually tight tolerances, making it hard to get on there.
I tried a threaded rod and big washers to press the headset, and never
could get things to line up right. After barely avoiding a disaster, a
friend pressed them in with his threaded rod. If I were to do it again
(without the proper tools) I would use a square of 1/4" steel with a hole
for the washer. Lots of surface area. The pro tools work real easy.
Setting the star nut, a friend did this for me too. It needs to be nice
and straight. The tool is cheap.
I've also seen the "rocket ship" work and it's pretty slick. I've used
the screwdriver method in automotive work, but the rocket ship is far far
better.
After all this, I'd take it to a LBS and let them do the headset stuff.
I'm very stubborn, independent, persistent and tenacious with hands-on
stuff, so I say that with much thought. But, I do have a LBS that lets
me use his tools if they're not really stacked up.

One other option - join a local bike club. Mine has a general email DL.
I spammed them once looking for a der hanger straightener to borrow, and
you wouldn't believe the enthusiastic replies!

Jerry said:

Well I'm making good progress - I got one of the Park

rocket ships and it

Quoted message said:

got the old headcups out a treat and the fork race came

out with fairly

Quoted message said:

easily with a bit of gentle persuasion from a chisel (I

wasn't planning to

Quoted message said:

re-use it!).

I have ordered a Shimano STX (threaded) headset and I

have a headset press.

Quoted message said:

The only complication seems to be that the STX has sealed

cartridge bearings

Quoted message said:

and the Cyclus press doesn't come with any adapters to

avoid pressing on

Quoted message said:

such bearings when installing it, so I am thinking of

improvising my own

Quoted message said:

adapter - the adjustable cup from the old headset looks

like it might do the

Quoted message said:

job nicely.

You're right that many cartridge headsets require an adapter
(or at least care in the setup) to avoid pressing across the
bearing during installation. Shimano's STX cartridges simply
drop in and out - no special effort needed.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

any piece of pipe will do?
is there a universal standard for crown race diameters and depths?
i thought the crown race was turned for the specific fork seat, heated
to glowing, then slid over the seat?

the channel locks are used to hold the knurled not steady while the hex
nut is adjusted over the ball bearings

Quoted message said:

any piece of pipe will do?

As long as it's big enough to slide over the steer tube and softer than
the crown race (shouldn't be a problem unless you go out of your way to
harden it yourself).

Quoted message said:

is there a universal standard for crown race diameters and depths?

As is the case elsewhere, there ar a number of standards to choose from.
The most common ones are the Campy standard (26.4mm) and JIS (27.0mm)

Quoted message said:

i thought the crown race was turned for the specific fork seat, heated
to glowing, then slid over the seat?

No; you're thinking of the One Ring from "Lord of the Rings." The race
seat on the fork is machined to a slightly larger diameter (about 0.1mm
larger than the nominal inside diameter of the crown race) than the
crown race, and the race is forced onto the seat with the slide hammer
described above.

Quoted message said:

the channel locks are used to hold the knurled not steady while the hex
nut is adjusted over the ball bearings

That hurts just thinking about it!

--

John ([email hidden])

On Fri, 30 Dec 2005 11:17:31 -0000, "Jerry"

haysden@%no_sp*m%hotmail.com said:

Hi

I wanted to have a go at fitting a new threaded headset, something I would
really like to learn to be able to do for myself. Can anyone tell which
special tools are particularly important to have?

This is a matter of opinion. Some people use a hammer and a block of
wood to install the cups with good results, and a big crescent wrench
to snug the locknut down. Others scream in pain when this is
suggested, advocating a purpose-designed special tool that gently
presses the cups into the head tube, and a specific type of open-end
wrench to tighten the nut(s). Lots of people do a perfectly good job
with a long piece of threaded rod, two nuts, some carefully selected
washers, and a wrench of their choice.

Quoted message said:

I already have a headset
press for installing the new headset into the head tube, but am not sure
whether it is necessary to have special tools to remove the old headset -
particularly the fork race, lower head cup and top head race. Some articles
seem to suggest this is not necessary as tools like screw drivers/socket
extensions or punches can do the job. But would that pose a high risk of
damage?

Unless the head tube is unusually fragile or the tool-wielder is
negligent in the area of safe hammer and punch usage, no. *Any* job
can be done wrong with *any* tools, and many jobs can be done well
with few tools; much depends on the person using them.

Quoted message said:

Also is it necessary to have a special tool to fit a new fork race?

This is one area where having a piece of steel pipe that's precisely
the right inside diameter to knock the race into position is a good
thing. I've made do with a number of improvisations, but as this is
the most heavily loaded part of the assembly, I feel that a little
care in its installation is worthwhile.

--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 00:53:04 GMT, Werehatrack <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

This is one area where having a piece of steel pipe that's precisely
the right inside diameter to knock the race into position is a good
thing. I've made do with a number of improvisations, but as this is
the most heavily loaded part of the assembly, I feel that a little
care in its installation is worthwhile.

While it's true that it's the most heavily loaded part, it's loaded in a
direction that will cause it to seat better. At worst, a not fully seated
race will cause the headset to lose adjustment the first significant bump.
Well, as long as it's at least *straight*, of course.

Jasper

aha! most common standards.
the race seat is machined to a larger diameter?
what happens when replacing the old crown with a new one 15 years after
manufacture?
one would machine the crown to the seat? no?
but-does heating the crown race for a heated slip fit and grip ruin the
crown's finish?

Quoted message said:

aha! most common standards.
the race seat is machined to a larger diameter?
what happens when replacing the old crown with a new one 15 years after
manufacture?
one would machine the crown to the seat? no?
but-does heating the crown race for a heated slip fit and grip ruin the
crown's finish?

Don't heat a bearing race - you'll ruin the temper.
Both 27.1 and 26.4 crown races are readily available and
cheap for most common headsets. (expensive headsets are 26.4
only) You can always have the crown machined - about the
same price as machine service.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

A Muzi said:

You can always have the crown machined - about the
same price as machine service.

Only if you're going from JIS to Campy (27.0 -> 26.4).

--

-John ([email hidden])