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Newbie alert!

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UK and Europe
Published
30 January 2006
Last activity
31 January 2006
Original author
zeke
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13
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  1. Hi folks

    On the verge of becoming a cyclist, thought I could ask here for advice
    on a reasonable bike to start off with. I'd begin with some trail, some
    road and build exprience and fitness (and confidence) up before going
    any 'harder'.

    What should I be looking for in a 'starter' bike? It's amazing how much
    choice there is out there - I have no idea which brands are reliable,
    good value etc. (and vice versa). How much should I be looking to
    spend?

    Halfords (is that name allowed here?) are offering a bike called the
    Helium - 21 gear, off-road. Anyone heard of this brand? Any opinions?

    Thanks in advance for constructive advice.

  2. zeke said:

    Hi folks

    On the verge of becoming a cyclist, thought I could ask here for advice
    on a reasonable bike to start off with. I'd begin with some trail, some
    road and build exprience and fitness (and confidence) up before going
    any 'harder'.

    What should I be looking for in a 'starter' bike? It's amazing how much
    choice there is out there - I have no idea which brands are reliable,
    good value etc. (and vice versa). How much should I be looking to
    spend?

    Entry level is really a couple of hundred pounds for a reasonable bike.
    That will get you a base level mountain or hybrid bike that works well,
    is a pleasure to ride and is suitably maintainable. In part what you go
    for depends on what you are like and what you want to do.

    A good bit of advice would be to go to a bike shop that has a range of
    bikes and talk to them about where and what you want to do.

    A second bit of advice would be to find a bike second hand to start
    with. This will be cheap, and will allow you to spend money on the
    things that make a difference, such as cycle specific clothing and
    accessories like racks/panniers. It can also be a cost effective way of
    trying things out. Spend a few tens of quid on a s/h bike now, work out
    what there is about it that you like/don't like, maybe, if you are that
    way inclined, learn how to maintain it. Then get another one that may
    suit you better than the first (selling or otherwise passing it on).
    After a wee while you'll then know what it is you want from a bike and
    can approach the LBS (local bike shop) with confidence.

    A third bit of advice would be to find other cyclists to ride with. If
    you want to get your traffic skills up to scratch it may be well worth
    spending a few pounds on a one to one lesson with a qualified
    instructor. They can give you training that will help you ride better
    and stay safer (and much of it is not immediately obvious) which all
    adds up to enjoying it more.

    And finally. Just do it. Get a bike. Go play. Enjoy!

    regarding Halfords, they are much derided because of the bad ones. They
    really are variable and depend on the quality of the staff in the one
    you visit. My local is not too bad, but you ahve to know what you want
    and as good a deal overall can be got from the local shop who are much
    better qualified. The runnng costs of a bike are not zero. Every cycle
    use has an optimum price/performance point which for me is somewhare
    around the 6-800 cycle mark. For some it is lower, and others it is
    higher. Experience tells you where it is for you.

    regards

    ...d

  3. zeke said:

    Hi folks

    On the verge of becoming a cyclist, thought I could ask here for advice
    on a reasonable bike to start off with. I'd begin with some trail, some
    road and build exprience and fitness (and confidence) up before going
    any 'harder'.

    What should I be looking for in a 'starter' bike? It's amazing how much
    choice there is out there - I have no idea which brands are reliable,
    good value etc. (and vice versa). How much should I be looking to
    spend?

    UKP 250.

    Don't think of getting full suspension at this price, and not for what
    you want. A fully rigid bike would be fine, although a suspension
    seatpost would iron out the bumps; front suspension adds a bit of extra
    weight and is useful if you're cycling places with a lot of potholes.
    Mudguards are essential if you're ever riding in the wet.

    R.

  4. zeke said:

    Halfords (is that name allowed here?) are offering a bike called the
    Helium - 21 gear, off-road. Anyone heard of this brand? Any opinions?

    21 gear rings alarm bells. Not because that's not enough gears,
    necessarily, but because it's older/cheaper technology now. It'll be
    harder to find spares and the rest of the bike may be equally 'cheapo'
    quality. Look for a bike with eight or nine sprockets on the back.

    ~PB

  5. In article said:
    zeke said:

    Halfords (is that name allowed here?) are offering a bike called the
    Helium - 21 gear, off-road. Anyone heard of this brand? Any opinions?

    21 gear rings alarm bells. Not because that's not enough gears,
    necessarily, but because it's older/cheaper technology now. It'll be
    harder to find spares and the rest of the bike may be equally 'cheapo'
    quality. Look for a bike with eight or nine sprockets on the back.

    There's nothing necessarily wrong with older technology as a way to
    save money. Look how often buying second hand is recommended as a
    better way of using a small budget than a new cheap bike.
    I doubt there will be any problem buying 7-speed chains and sprockets
    for years - but they won't be top of the line models.
    (7-speed bar-end shifters or STI road levers if you don't like Sora's
    thumb levers is another matter.)

  6. You've picked a good time of year. It will get warmer, lighter and sunnier
    from now on.
    "Most people" (he says with no evidence) decide to get a bike in the summer
    when it seems like a nice thing to do, then it just gets darker, colder and
    wetter. The bike goes in the shed after a particularly wet and muddy ride,
    rusts through the winter and ends up in a skip a few years later having
    never been ridden again.

    Go for it! Find a shop and/or some mates who will let you have a few test
    rides on different styles of bike so you can work out what you really want.
    Be honest about what kind of use you will make of it e.g. don't kid yourself
    you'll be blasting down welsh mountains every weekend if you live in central
    London and are more likely to do a couple of miles to the pub and back.
    Don't forget to budget for some lights.

    "zeke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hi folks

    On the verge of becoming a cyclist, thought I could ask here for advice
    on a reasonable bike to start off with. I'd begin with some trail, some
    road and build exprience and fitness (and confidence) up before going
    any 'harder'.

    What should I be looking for in a 'starter' bike? It's amazing how much
    choice there is out there - I have no idea which brands are reliable,
    good value etc. (and vice versa). How much should I be looking to
    spend?

    Halfords (is that name allowed here?) are offering a bike called the
    Helium - 21 gear, off-road. Anyone heard of this brand? Any opinions?

    Thanks in advance for constructive advice.

  7. in message <[email hidden]>, zeke

    (') said:

    Hi folks

    On the verge of becoming a cyclist, thought I could ask here for advice
    on a reasonable bike to start off with. I'd begin with some trail, some
    road and build exprience and fitness (and confidence) up before going
    any 'harder'.

    What should I be looking for in a 'starter' bike? It's amazing how much
    choice there is out there - I have no idea which brands are reliable,
    good value etc. (and vice versa). How much should I be looking to
    spend?

    All of the lower-end brands have some total rubbish in their ranges. With
    the exception of Edinburgh Bicycle Co-operative, there's no brand at the
    cheap end of the market of which you can say 'anything' by X is
    reliable'. But some are better than others, and in most of the low-end
    ranges you can point to something that's real value for money.

    A cheap bike which I particularly like as a honest bit of work is the
    Claud Butler Classic, a hybrid which comes with mudguards and rack
    included in the price at around £200.
    <URL:http://www.falconcycles.co.uk/2005/HYBRID/classicM.html>
    This will cope with riding on trails and is good on the road. It isn't
    flashy but it's a good general purpose utility bike.

    If you're near Edinburgh (or Aberdeen or Newcastle, where they also have
    branches) you /must/ go to the Co-op. Their 'Revolution' own-brands are
    all good value.

    Don't buy a mountain bike if you mean to ride on trails and roads. They
    aren't designed for it and will be much harder work.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    I shall continue to be an impossible person so long as those
    who are now possible remain possible -- Michael Bakunin

  8. zeke said:

    Hi folks

    On the verge of becoming a cyclist, thought I could ask here for advice on
    a reasonable bike to start off with. I'd begin with some trail, some road
    and build exprience and fitness (and confidence) up before going any
    'harder'.

    What should I be looking for in a 'starter' bike?

    I would steer clear of the 'off-road' bike.
    Think of the bikes tagged as a 'hybrid'.
    As others have said, visit your local bike shop and have a chat with them.
    If you are near a Decathlon store, they have some decent bikes at good
    value. And as we have discussed recently, the Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op has
    some very good value own-brand bikes.

  9. "Pete Biggs" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    zeke said:

    Halfords (is that name allowed here?) are offering a bike called the
    Helium - 21 gear, off-road. Anyone heard of this brand? Any opinions?

    21 gear rings alarm bells. Not because that's not enough gears,
    necessarily, but because it's older/cheaper technology now. It'll be
    harder to find spares and the rest of the bike may be equally 'cheapo'
    quality. Look for a bike with eight or nine sprockets on the back.

    ~PB

    Don't worry about coming back here and asking again about any particular
    bike as you refine your choice; we're quite patient!

    Julia

  10. Alan Braggins said:

    There's nothing necessarily wrong with older technology as a way to
    save money. Look how often buying second hand is recommended as a
    better way of using a small budget than a new cheap bike.

    Yes but it doesn't have to be that old to be affordable. Enough 24-speed
    bikes are on the second-hand market.

    Quoted message said:

    I doubt there will be any problem buying 7-speed chains and sprockets
    for years - but they won't be top of the line models.
    (7-speed bar-end shifters or STI road levers if you don't like Sora's
    thumb levers is another matter.)

    I predict the choice of 7-speed cassettes will decrease over the next few
    years. It may become hard to find your favourite ratio, and the cheapest
    online dealers won't bother stocking them, so ironically the older
    technology will cost more money. Chain won't be a problem though as
    8-speed chains work with 7-speed cassettes.

    ~PB

  11. zeke said:

    Hi folks

    It depends at lot on where you live, if you're up in the Welsh Mountain
    you're going to need every gear you've got, so make sure you get a bike
    with triple chain ring on the front and a nice spread on the back 32-11
    teeth for example. 7-8-9-10 cogs at the back doesn't make much
    difference if your entire range is 11-21 teeth. As light a bike as you
    can afford as you don't want to be dragging a 35lbs tank up hills.
    If you live somewhere flat like Norfolk, a single speed bike would do
    and would save you a whole bunch of money on not having gears. Plus
    lower maintainence bills. Weight of the bike is not so important down
    on the flats.
    If you live in town, then I'd get a bike with flat bars, as learning to
    deal with traffic while on drop bars isn't fun.
    Get a bike with flat pedals, if you buy second hand, the original owner
    may have upgraded to clipless pedals, not something you want to add to
    your learning curve.
    Check out your local bike shop, some carry second hand bikes and most
    will be trying to shift last years models at a discounted price at this
    time of year.

    For me, if I was starting out again, I'd start with a road bike (even
    though I race mtb now). You'll get fitter quicker, burn more calories,
    probably get less punctures, have to spend less on maintainence and
    won't have to deal with learning to ride wet roots, rocks and dog sh&t
    off road.

    On the road you'll have to deal with traffic and the simplest mantra is
    'always expect the worst'. Which means when passing parked cars any of
    those doors could open at anytime, you will not be seen by drivers
    (welcome to the Invisibles), you will not be heard by peds, dogs will
    chase you (which is great sprint training) and other cyclists will
    check your bike out before you as they pass you.

    Laters,

    Marz

    ps buy some really good padded shorts, lycra or baggy, and have the ice
    ready for after your first 2 hour ride.

    pps there's always the dark side.

  12. Wow, this has to be one of the friendliest NGs I've been in. Really
    grateful for all the sound advice so far - many thanks. Will go and
    visit a few shops with a bit more knowledge under my belt.

  13. In article said:
    Alan Braggins said:

    I doubt there will be any problem buying 7-speed chains and sprockets
    for years - but they won't be top of the line models.
    (7-speed bar-end shifters or STI road levers if you don't like Sora's
    thumb levers is another matter.)

    I predict the choice of 7-speed cassettes will decrease over the next few
    years. It may become hard to find your favourite ratio, and the cheapest
    online dealers won't bother stocking them, so ironically the older
    technology will cost more money.

    I predict that the ones that are available will be ones broadly suitable
    for "a starter bike", and that he will be able to upgrade later in a few
    years if it does become a problem.

    Obviously this is only worthwhile if the 7 speed bike is significantly
    cheaper than the 8 speed. In the case of my 7 speed hybrid, it was about
    2/3 the price for being the previous years model. (In the case of my 7 speed
    road bike, at the time I bought it 8 speed Dura-Ace was available, but
    5 and 6 speed were still common for cheaper bikes.)

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