Chainsaw Oil

ps, I'm using Stihl Semi-Synthetic oil.

Thanks for the tip!

I was considering an alternative to using GT85 on my chains as I don't
like aerosols.

I might give it a go. A litre should last a while!

Where do you get it? An ironmongers?

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the tip!

I was considering an alternative to using GT85 on my chains as I don't
like aerosols.

I might give it a go. A litre should last a while!

Where do you get it? An ironmongers?

I should think so. I got mine at a tool hire shop. Make sure to go for the
Stihl semi-synthetic. I bought this before I'd seen the test results below,
luckily it's the right stuff. This motorcyclist carried out some reasonably
thorough tests: http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/chainsaw.html

in message <[email hidden]>, Simon Bennett

(') said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the tip!

I was considering an alternative to using GT85 on my chains as I don't
like aerosols.

I might give it a go. A litre should last a while!

Where do you get it? An ironmongers?

I should think so. I got mine at a tool hire shop. Make sure to go for
the Stihl semi-synthetic. I bought this before I'd seen the test
results below, luckily it's the right stuff. This motorcyclist carried
out some reasonably thorough tests:
http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/chainsaw.html

But note that he's using a scottoiler (which you can get for pushbikes as
well - I have friends who use the system) which, like a chainsaw, is a
continuous feed, total loss lubrication system. It may not cling well
enough to the chain to be used as conventional bike chain lubes are.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
; ... of course nothing said here will be taken notice of by
; the W3C. The official place to be ignored is on www-style or
; www-html. -- George Lund

Cheers, I'll have a look at that!

"Simon Bennett" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the tip!

I was considering an alternative to using GT85 on my chains as I don't
like aerosols.

I might give it a go. A litre should last a while!

Where do you get it? An ironmongers?

I should think so. I got mine at a tool hire shop. Make sure to go for the
Stihl semi-synthetic. I bought this before I'd seen the test results
below,
luckily it's the right stuff. This motorcyclist carried out some
reasonably
thorough tests: http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/chainsaw.html

Note his chain has rubber o-rings, unlike a bike chain, so some of his
concerns won't apply.

cheers,
clive

Simon Bennett said:

Great stuff. I bought a litre (£5) of it a few months ago. I used it on a
newish chain last night. It's very light so soaks right into the chain very
nicely. Apparently it's meant to shed dirt, which gathers at the base of
trees -- much more damaging than sawdust to expensive saw chains.

Didn't work for me - left oily strings all over the back wheel. It was
like golden syrup.

Simon Brooke said:

in message <[email hidden]>, Simon Bennett

(') said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the tip!

I was considering an alternative to using GT85 on my chains as I
don't like aerosols.

I might give it a go. A litre should last a while!

Where do you get it? An ironmongers?

I should think so. I got mine at a tool hire shop. Make sure to go
for the Stihl semi-synthetic. I bought this before I'd seen the test
results below, luckily it's the right stuff. This motorcyclist
carried out some reasonably thorough tests:
http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/chainsaw.html

But note that he's using a scottoiler (which you can get for
pushbikes as well - I have friends who use the system) which, like a
chainsaw, is a continuous feed, total loss lubrication system. It may
not cling well enough to the chain to be used as conventional bike
chain lubes are.

I doubt it has to cling /that/ well to a bicycle chain as it's not spinning
as fast as a motorbike or saw chain.

"Simon Brooke" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

But note that he's using a scottoiler (which you can get for pushbikes as
well - I have friends who use the system) which, like a chainsaw, is a
continuous feed, total loss lubrication system. It may not cling well
enough to the chain to be used as conventional bike chain lubes are.

It's quite pretty watching a freshly oiled timing chain on the tandem if
it's been done with chainsaw oil (not stihl, just what I got at the local
hardware shop). There's a web of strands which forms as the link leaves the
chainwheel and goes off into the beyond - the oil strand lasts almost till
the other side of the ring where the chain rejoins if you spin it moderately
quickly.

So I suspect it does cling quite well :-)

(OTOH I'm not entirely convinced by it's performance in the wet - 13 miles
can clean the chain quite well.)

cheers,
clive

Clive George said:

It's quite pretty watching a freshly oiled timing chain on the tandem if
it's been done with chainsaw oil (not stihl, just what I got at the local
hardware shop). There's a web of strands which forms as the link leaves the
chainwheel and goes off into the beyond - the oil strand lasts almost till
the other side of the ring where the chain rejoins if you spin it moderately
quickly.

So I suspect it does cling quite well :-)

Especially the 'environment friendly' chainsaw oil I used just before
a day's touring. It took about 50 miles before the delayed action gear
changes finally stopped.

--
Pete
mono(losethis}treme@ntlw{andthis>orld.com

"Simon Bennett" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Great stuff. I bought a litre (£5) of it a few months ago. I used it on a
newish chain last night. It's very light so soaks right into the chain
very
nicely. Apparently it's meant to shed dirt, which gathers at the base of
trees -- much more damaging than sawdust to expensive saw chains.

Brilliant stuff. I bought my 5 litre bottle 7 years ago and hope to leave
some of it to a neice. After a muddy day in Welsh forestry I hose the chain
off - the mud has abraded most of the sticky stuff off after a few hours,
then use GT85 to dispel the water. Apply the chainsaw oil and watch those
sticky strings as I spin the wheel - there is no fling.

Changing is excellent at the start of a ride and remains so until the end. I
assume lubrication is by mud towards the end of the ride. I did try Pedro
dry lube (I won some) but can't believe that something I can't see is doing
any good.

John

Simon Bennett said:

Simon Brooke said:

in message <[email hidden]>, Simon Bennett

(') said:

[email hidden] wrote:
> Thanks for the tip!
>
> I was considering an alternative to using GT85 on my chains as I
> don't like aerosols.
>
> I might give it a go. A litre should last a while!
>
> Where do you get it? An ironmongers?

I should think so. I got mine at a tool hire shop. Make sure to go
for the Stihl semi-synthetic. I bought this before I'd seen the
test results below, luckily it's the right stuff. This
motorcyclist carried out some reasonably thorough tests:
http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/chainsaw.html

But note that he's using a scottoiler (which you can get for
pushbikes as well - I have friends who use the system) which, like
a chainsaw, is a continuous feed, total loss lubrication system. It
may not cling well enough to the chain to be used as conventional
bike chain lubes are.

I doubt it has to cling /that/ well to a bicycle chain as it's not
spinning as fast as a motorbike or saw chain.

The sprocket on the back of a motorbike is a *lot* larger than a bike
though, 45 or so rather than 12 or so. Chain speed should be pretty
similar at 100mph as at 25mph on a bike. You'll get more shedding on
the bike with the chain going over a narrower radius at the wheel but
on a motorbike you've also got a small front sprocket, a 15 or 16.

I've no idea about chain speeds on a saw though.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck

"Chris Eilbeck" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I doubt it has to cling /that/ well to a bicycle chain as it's not
spinning as fast as a motorbike or saw chain.

The sprocket on the back of a motorbike is a *lot* larger than a bike
though, 45 or so rather than 12 or so.

ok...

Quoted message said:

Chain speed should be pretty
similar at 100mph as at 25mph on a bike.

wrong way round - chain speed would be similar at 6mph as 25mph on a bike
:-)

cheers,
clive

Quoted message said:

Didn't work for me - left oily strings all over the back wheel. It
was like golden syrup.

You have to wipe most of it off. If you did, what brand did you use (I'll
avoid it)?

Zog The Undeniable said:

Simon Bennett said:

Great stuff. I bought a litre (£5) of it a few months ago. I used it
on a newish chain last night. It's very light so soaks right into
the chain very nicely. Apparently it's meant to shed dirt, which
gathers at the base of trees -- much more damaging than sawdust to
expensive saw chains.

Didn't work for me - left oily strings all over the back wheel. It
was like golden syrup.

Should've gone for Stihl Semi-synthetic. That's Stihl Semi-synthetic, folks.

Clive George said:

"Chris Eilbeck" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I doubt it has to cling /that/ well to a bicycle chain as it's not
spinning as fast as a motorbike or saw chain.

The sprocket on the back of a motorbike is a *lot* larger than a bike
though, 45 or so rather than 12 or so.

ok...

Quoted message said:

Chain speed should be pretty
similar at 100mph as at 25mph on a bike.

wrong way round - chain speed would be similar at 6mph as 25mph on a
bike :-)

Errrm, ok. Fair enough.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck

Mark Thompson said:

Quoted message said:

Didn't work for me - left oily strings all over the back wheel. It
was like golden syrup.

You have to wipe most of it off. If you did, what brand did you use (I'll
avoid it)?

McCulloch.

Zog The Undeniable said:

Didn't work for me - left oily strings all over the back wheel. It was
like golden syrup.

I used to use a chainsaw oil like that, but to great effect. It does
however require a little work.

1) Clean chain thoroughly
2) Dip in small tub of oil and hang up to drip
3) Using hot air gun (or hairdryer - take care not to get oil on it!)
heat the chain (starting at the top) so that the oil becomes less
viscous. This causes it to penetrate the rollers and to run off the
chain.
4) Wipe off the excess with a cloth.
5) Allow to cool, put back on bike.

If you set this up so that as it cools you (If you're feeling kind to
your bike) clean the chainrings and cassette, it doesn't take too much
time and the result is a chain with a nice thin layer of oil that
doesn't just wash off in the first shower. If you're well organised and
can do the chain rotation trick, you can set up one chain and then just
leave it hanging until you next swap them over. Powerlinks are your
friends.

Jon

Jon is Away! said:

If you're well organised and
can do the chain rotation trick, you can set up one chain and then just
leave it hanging until you next swap them over. Powerlinks are your
friends.

My usual method is

1. Take chain off bike and soak it in white spirit (which is cheap and
can be reused)

2. Put other chain on bike.

When I then have time
3. Take chain out of white spirit and clean it in finishline citrus
degreaser.

4. Hang it up for an hour or so to dry a bit

5. Dunk chain in chainsaw oil for a few minutes.

6. Fish chain out of oil. Wipe as much off as possible with my fingers
and then hang up chain for next time I want to swap them.

Except that I recently got distracted between steps 4 and 5. When I
came to swap the chains my nearly new chain was an extremely stiff
rusty bar. I actually managed to get about 80% of the links to pivot
before I gave up, binned it and bought a new chain (which only skipped
a bit for a week)

Tim.