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Bike for bunch rides

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
14 March 2006
Last activity
6 April 2006
Original author
OzCableguy
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  1. Ok, the kilos are coming off and the times are coming down so sometime in
    the next 6 to 12 months (probably closer to the latter) I hope to get to a
    level of fitness where I can get in on some bunch rides. Naturally starting
    off on some recovery rides and working up to the quicker ones over time. So
    the time has come to start putting away some $$ for an appropriate roadie of
    some sort.
    Initially I was thinking something around $1-1500 or so like a Giant OCR
    type thing but there seems to be some groovy stuff in the $1500-2000 bracket
    like the Specialized Allez Sport type of bike.
    So, how much should I be spending to get a reasonably competitive bike with
    a reasonable level of comfort? Am I looking at the right types of bikes for
    the task? Which price bracket represents the best value for money?
    Seems to be hundreds of makes and models to choose from. I guess the main
    thing is to get the one that fits and feels the best once you're in the
    right price bracket to get the right quality, but any pointers will be
    appreciated.

    --
    www.ozcableguy.com
    www.oztechnologies.com

  2. OzCableguy said:

    Ok, the kilos are coming off and the times are coming down so sometime in
    the next 6 to 12 months (probably closer to the latter) I hope to get to a
    level of fitness where I can get in on some bunch rides. Naturally starting
    off on some recovery rides and working up to the quicker ones over time. So
    the time has come to start putting away some $$ for an appropriate roadie of
    some sort.
    Initially I was thinking something around $1-1500 or so like a Giant OCR
    type thing but there seems to be some groovy stuff in the $1500-2000 bracket
    like the Specialized Allez Sport type of bike.

    The 1500-2000 range is very good value. You'll get a good bike if you
    buy carefully.

    My advice, shop on frame, not components. components wear out, frame
    lasts ...

    Quoted message said:

    So, how much should I be spending to get a reasonably competitive bike with
    a reasonable level of comfort?

    Any roady will be "competitive", it's your legs & lungs that matter.
    It has to fit and be reliable and comfortable. Testride .. and then
    testride some more .. and then testride ...

  3. OzCableguy said:

    Ok, the kilos are coming off and the times are coming down so sometime in
    the next 6 to 12 months (probably closer to the latter) I hope to get to a
    level of fitness where I can get in on some bunch rides. Naturally starting
    off on some recovery rides and working up to the quicker ones over time. So
    the time has come to start putting away some $$ for an appropriate roadie of
    some sort.
    Initially I was thinking something around $1-1500 or so like a Giant OCR
    type thing but there seems to be some groovy stuff in the $1500-2000 bracket
    like the Specialized Allez Sport type of bike.
    So, how much should I be spending to get a reasonably competitive bike with
    a reasonable level of comfort? Am I looking at the right types of bikes for
    the task? Which price bracket represents the best value for money?
    Seems to be hundreds of makes and models to choose from. I guess the main
    thing is to get the one that fits and feels the best once you're in the
    right price bracket to get the right quality, but any pointers will be
    appreciated.

    --
    www.ozcableguy.com
    www.oztechnologies.com


    Me and two friends have bought road bikes in that price bracket in the last couple of weeks. I bought a secondhand litespeed, and they bought a Merida 904-20 and a GT GTR Series 3.

    I ride a Giant MTB (which was great value), so I originally looked at Giants road bike but I was really unimpressed. The Felt 80 looked nice, the Merida 904-20 nicer, but in the end I just couldn't resist the Litespeed. Good luck with your purchase, and have fun 🙂. Oh and lastly, fit really is important. Test ride all the bikes you are thinking about, it gives you a better idea about them.

  4. "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Any roady will be "competitive", it's your legs & lungs that matter.
    It has to fit and be reliable and comfortable. Testride .. and then
    testride some more .. and then testride ...


    That's what I like to hear, but yeah I'd probably spend more if I thought
    I'd get a lot more, but I have a strong feeling there's a point of seriously
    diminishing returns somewhere around the $2000 mark.

    At the moment I wondering why some have sloping top tubes while others have
    more traditional hortizontal top tubes (the seat/handlebar/bottombracket
    position appears to end up pretty much the same), whether a double or triple
    crankset is better, close set of ratios or a wide spread, which shifters and
    so on.

  5. OzCableguy said:

    "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Any roady will be "competitive", it's your legs & lungs that matter.
    It has to fit and be reliable and comfortable. Testride .. and then
    testride some more .. and then testride ...


    That's what I like to hear, but yeah I'd probably spend more if I thought
    I'd get a lot more, but I have a strong feeling there's a point of seriously
    diminishing returns somewhere around the $2000 mark.

    Yep, that's around where it starts to hit deep, yes.

    Quoted message said:

    At the moment I wondering why some have sloping top tubes while others have
    more traditional hortizontal top tubes (the seat/handlebar/bottombracket

    Fashion, and compact frames mean that manufacturers can get away with
    less sizes.
    Personally, I hate 'em (compact/sloping top tube frames), I like having
    lots of room for drink bottles etc. and a long seat tube is flex-city.
    YMMV, some people love 'em.

    Quoted message said:

    position appears to end up pretty much the same), whether a double or triple
    crankset is better, close set of ratios or a wide spread, which shifters and
    so on.

    Depending on your riding, a triple may not be necessary, and it won't
    win you any cred in a bunch (which may or may not matter much to you 🙂
    ). Generally triples are for touring rather than racing or training,
    and they're heavier (a little) and more difficult to get right in terms
    of gear shifting smoothly. It's trivially easy to change a 12:23 to a
    12:27 cassette so a wide range is not really an issue, it's a 5 minute
    swap. I'd suggest if you're not a climber (light and fit) that at
    least a 12:25 as a minimum, and a 12:27 ideally - there's no shame in
    spinning up a hill. You're in Sydney if I recall correctly? Or
    Brisbane? Both have some hilly roads, so the tight ratios in a 12:23
    aren't really worth having, I'd be going for a 12:27.

  6. "Bleve" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Depending on your riding, a triple may not be necessary, and it won't
    win you any cred in a bunch (which may or may not matter much to you 🙂
    ). Generally triples are for touring rather than racing or training,
    and they're heavier (a little) and more difficult to get right in terms
    of gear shifting smoothly. It's trivially easy to change a 12:23 to a
    12:27 cassette so a wide range is not really an issue, it's a 5 minute
    swap. I'd suggest if you're not a climber (light and fit) that at
    least a 12:25 as a minimum, and a 12:27 ideally - there's no shame in
    spinning up a hill. You're in Sydney if I recall correctly? Or
    Brisbane? Both have some hilly roads, so the tight ratios in a 12:23
    aren't really worth having, I'd be going for a 12:27.


    Yep, Brisbane. Great stuff. Thx.

  7. "SomeGuy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Me and two friends have bought road bikes in that price bracket in the
    last couple of weeks. I bought a secondhand litespeed, and they bought a
    Merida 904-20 and a GT GTR Series 3.

    I ride a Giant MTB (which was great value), so I originally looked at
    Giants road bike but I was really unimpressed. The Felt 80 looked nice,
    the Merida 904-20 nicer, but in the end I just couldn't resist the
    Litespeed. Good luck with your purchase, and have fun 🙂. Oh and
    lastly, fit really is important. Test ride all the bikes you are
    thinking about, it gives you a better idea about them.


    That's the ticket. There's so many to choose from it's almost impossible to
    decide just on spec sheets or price. The only way to get the real picture is
    to jump on and try them out.

  8. I agree with Bleve re: chainrings & rear ratios.

    I'm no climber (the other BrisVegans can stop laughing NOW!!), but I
    only have a 'normal' double chainring up front. On the back, I run a
    13-26 8-speed (Sora) cassette. I've never, ever missed having a
    12-toother in there (even when racing at the Murarrie crits), and have
    definitely appreciated having the 26-toother there up a few of the
    steeper hills.

    Don't feel pressure to spend up in an effort to get anything 'decent'.
    Plenty of bikes around $1000 or so that are a good deal. Of course, if
    you can happily spend up to $2k, then do so!!

    Of course, the more important question is - when will be seeing you on
    a Friday Lard [censored] ride?????

    Cheers,
    Abby

  9. So how is the Litespeed? After all the agonising you did, I'm
    interested in the report.

    Donga

  10. Bleve said:


    Depending on your riding, a triple may not be necessary, and it won't
    win you any cred in a bunch (which may or may not matter much to you 🙂
    ). Generally triples are for touring rather than racing or training,
    and they're heavier (a little) and more difficult to get right in terms
    of gear shifting smoothly. It's trivially easy to change a 12:23 to a
    12:27 cassette so a wide range is not really an issue, it's a 5 minute
    swap. I'd suggest if you're not a climber (light and fit) that at
    least a 12:25 as a minimum, and a 12:27 ideally - there's no shame in
    spinning up a hill. You're in Sydney if I recall correctly? Or
    Brisbane? Both have some hilly roads, so the tight ratios in a 12:23
    aren't really worth having, I'd be going for a 12:27.

    you may also find more common this year the availability of Compact chainsets. A great idea as you get a good range of gears, (especially at the mid/lower end), are same/lighter than 53/39 doubles and you dont lose street cred as glances still show you are riding a double 😄

    34x23 = 39.91"
    OR 34x25 = 36.72" VS 39x25 = 42.12"
    & 50x11 122.73" VS 53x12 119.25"
    (closer shifting = better shifting)

    F"stuck with a triple at present"Dutch

  11. "Absent Husband" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Of course, the more important question is - when will be seeing you on
    a Friday Lard [censored] ride?????


    Heh. I've got that one dog-eared as a possible good one to get started with,
    but I want to be sure I can manage a 25kph average on my own first so I
    don't disgrace myself...
    I average 25-30 on the flats at the moment (on a slick shod comfort MTB) but
    a bit of a headwind or too many hills and I'm cactus and the round trip time
    ends up well below 25. ;-)

  12. On 2006-03-14, flyingdutch (aka Bruce)
    was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:

    Quoted message said:

    F"stuck with a triple at present"Dutch

    Do you have a triple? All this time you've been telling me to get a
    double, and you've been on a triple? Oooh, payback time 🙂

    --
    TimC
    cpu time/usefulness ratio too high -- core dumped.

  13. Donga said:

    So how is the Litespeed? After all the agonising you did, I'm
    interested in the report.

    I've only done two proper rides on it so far, but from that limited experiance it seems good. Apart from a rather disturbing clunk coming from the bottom bracket that is. You'll get the full story later :-).

  14. Bleve said:

    OzCableguy wrote:

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    position appears to end up pretty much the same), whether a double or triple
    crankset is better, close set of ratios or a wide spread, which shifters and
    so on.

    Depending on your riding, a triple may not be necessary, and it won't
    win you any cred in a bunch (which may or may not matter much to you 🙂
    ). Generally triples are for touring rather than racing or training,
    and they're heavier (a little) and more difficult to get right in terms
    of gear shifting smoothly. It's trivially easy to change a 12:23 to a
    12:27 cassette so a wide range is not really an issue, it's a 5 minute
    swap.

    My 2 cents, since I did the same thing recently ...

    it is trivial to change cassettes with the right tools. However, you
    might need to do the following as well

    - install a new chain if the old chain is too short for the new 27 teeth
    sprocket
    - adjust the the rear derailleur to accomodate the new larger sprockets

    Quoted message said:

    I'd suggest if you're not a climber (light and fit)

    Bleve, how light would you consider to be light for a male cyclist?

    Quoted message said:

    that at least a 12:25 as a minimum, and a 12:27 ideally - there's no shame in
    spinning up a hill. You're in Sydney if I recall correctly? Or
    Brisbane? Both have some hilly roads, so the tight ratios in a 12:23
    aren't really worth having, I'd be going for a 12:27.

    Agreed. That's why I got a 12-27 so I can do some hills. I managed to do
    Bobbin Head Road
    (4km climb with a gradient of 4%) in Sydney with my 12-23 though, and I
    was 2 gears above granny gear
    for most of the climb.

    My 12-23 will now be used for my criterium debut ...

  15. petulance said:

    My 2 cents, since I did the same thing recently ...

    it is trivial to change cassettes with the right tools. However, you
    might need to do the following as well

    - install a new chain if the old chain is too short for the new 27 teeth
    sprocket
    - adjust the the rear derailleur to accomodate the new larger sprockets

    In my experience this is rarely an issue. I've banged a 27 on my bikes
    with no chain length or other issues, and they shipped with 12:23's or
    12:25's. It may be an issue if you go to a compact or odd size
    chainrings, but all we're talking abuot is a standard Shimano
    39:53/12:[23..27] arrangement.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'd suggest if you're not a climber (light and fit)

    Bleve, how light would you consider to be light for a male cyclist?

    I'd say anything around 70kg or lighter, but I mainly work with older
    riders (25-30+ years old). It's different for younger or elite riders.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    that at least a 12:25 as a minimum, and a 12:27 ideally - there's no shame in
    spinning up a hill. You're in Sydney if I recall correctly? Or
    Brisbane? Both have some hilly roads, so the tight ratios in a 12:23
    aren't really worth having, I'd be going for a 12:27.

    Agreed. That's why I got a 12-27 so I can do some hills. I managed to do
    Bobbin Head Road
    (4km climb with a gradient of 4%) in Sydney with my 12-23 though, and I
    was 2 gears above granny gear
    for most of the climb.

    My 12-23 will now be used for my criterium debut ...

    Have a read of this :

    http://www.aboc.com.au/perl/tips.pl?p=first_crit

    If it's your first crit, that may be useful to you.

  16. OzCableguy said:

    Ok, the kilos are coming off and the times are coming down so sometime in
    the next 6 to 12 months (probably closer to the latter) I hope to get to a
    level of fitness where I can get in on some bunch rides. Naturally starting
    off on some recovery rides and working up to the quicker ones over time.

    There are bound to be flattish group rides around that you could do
    already. The sooner you start, the sooner you will experience the
    powerful motivations of (a) the desire to not be dropped (b) coffee
    and cake awaiting you at the end :-)

    --
    Home page: http://members.westnet.com.au/mvw

  17. On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 02:41:46 GMT, OzCableguy wrote:

    I meant to point out that mountain bikes are fine for slower
    flat group rides, and sometimes people show up for mine on one.
    They don't usually last, but it's interesting to watch :-)

    Don't use not having a road bike as an excuse to put off
    group riding.

    --
    Home page: http://members.westnet.com.au/mvw

  18. Bleve said:

    petulance wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    it is trivial to change cassettes with the right tools. However, you
    might need to do the following as well
    - install a new chain if the old chain is too short for the new 27 teeth
    sprocket
    - adjust the the rear derailleur to accomodate the new larger sprockets

    In my experience this is rarely an issue. I've banged a 27 on my bikes
    with no chain length or other issues, and they shipped with 12:23's or
    12:25's. It may be an issue if you go to a compact or odd size
    chainrings, but all we're talking abuot is a standard Shimano
    39:53/12:[23..27] arrangement.

    I'll admit I didn't measure the length of the old chain before I put the
    new one on, but I had to adjust the derailleur because the jockey wheels
    were touching the 2 largest sprockets on the 12-27.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'd suggest if you're not a climber (light and fit)

    Bleve, how light would you consider to be light for a male cyclist?

    I'd say anything around 70kg or lighter, but I mainly work with older
    riders (25-30+ years old). It's different for younger or elite riders.

    Ah, that's my age group, and I'm under 70kg by quite a bit.

    It looks like I have the weight, now to work on the fitness ...

    🙂

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    My 12-23 will now be used for my criterium debut ...

    Have a read of this :

    http://www.aboc.com.au/perl/tips.pl?p=first_crit

    If it's your first crit, that may be useful to you.

    Thanks, I have read that before, I'll read it again before my first crit.

  19. "Michael Warner" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Don't use not having a road bike as an excuse to put off
    group riding.


    Nah, being a big fat slow poke is the only concern. I'd go out and buy a
    road bike today if I didn't think I'd squash it or have difficulty breathing
    all hunched over and aero. Mind you, there were some heaps porkier riders
    than me at the GBBR on road bikes. They even had the audactity to wear
    lycra. Eww..
    Getting the roadie is also a motivator for me. It's a goal/present I want to
    buy myself when I reach double figures on the scales.

  20. Howdy OzCableguy,

    Been in the same position, done the same thing.

    Started cycling on a hybrid 8 months ago. As a fat overweight 50yo with
    a bad back, did just 3 km in my first week. Kept at it, and was doing
    100 km weeks in 4 months (with less back trouble, too).

    Bought my son a Giant OCR1 for his 21st. Went for a 40 km ride with him
    last month, and he disappeared into the distance - gotta get myself a
    road bike.

    Bought me a Giant TCR1, and we now race 2x weekly with Coffs Harbour
    Club doing crits with my son.

    I did lots of research before spending my bucks.

    1. The frame must fit. Only drawback to Giants is there are just 6 frame
    sizes. Most manufacturers have a limited range of sizes, and if you
    can't get the right size, you'll have to pick something like Cannondale
    that has incremental sizes.

    2. Giant is the best value, period. Volume works. Avanti is next best
    for value, the rest cost some more, to lots more, for the same spec.
    I'll get flamed for this, probably, but it's true.

    3. A lot of manufacturers might use a splashy derailleur where you see
    it, and [censored] for parts where you don't. Just know what you are paying,
    or not paying for, as the case may be to know if you are getting value.

    My TCR1 is just out of your price range - paid $2300 (list $2450)- but
    it came with pure Ultegra - brakes levers bottom bracket crank - the
    works. Similar spec in other brands runs $200 to $2000 more. My frame
    will last the same as any other frame, so I couldn't see much advantage
    paying more. The OCR1 was $1900 with a wireless computer.

    The OCR1 has Shimano 105 9 speed. The TCR1 with Ultegra is much nicer to
    use, feels much nicer, crisper to change, and brakes way better (I've
    ridden both, obviously). I've been told the new 105 10 speed is good.
    I'm hoping the 2007 range (which will be out in September 06) might have
    105 10 speed on the OCR1 - I want to get the smaller 'w' model for my wife.

    I was worried that I might not be able to ride the more extreme geometry
    of a racing bike, but it has turned out OK. Started off with the stem
    turned over, to raise the bars a little, and as I adapted, have now
    reversed the stem to normal position, and am even getting used to riding
    in the drops. Am much faster into a headwind on the drops.

    The OCR has a slightly more relaxed geometry, with a higher stem and
    longer wheelbase. It races just as well as the TCR (we are club racing
    for fun, and not life or death on the Tour). The OCR1 does have carbon
    forks and rear end, which makes it more comfortable, but now I've got my
    TCR1 adjusted for me, I don't notice a lot of difference (TCR1 = carbon
    front and aluminium frame and rear end). I prefer riding the TCR1
    though, as the Ultegra is just nicer to use. Oh yeah - the only
    deficiency of the OCR1 is crappy Tectro brakes - need a much harder pull
    to stop. With Ultegra brakes I can crash stop with just 2 fingers on
    each lever.

    Just out of interest we weighed our bikes - OCR1 = 8.7kg TCR1 = 8.4kg.

    The less rotating mass, the faster the bike. Cheap heavy wheels will
    keep you slower. Double chainring weighs a lot less than triple
    chainring (OCR2 and down have triple). Remember, the total weight of the
    bike matters less than the rotating mass.

    If you need lower gears (don't know if you are an old fart like me, or a
    super fit elite athlete), the dealer can put different ratios on the
    rear cluster. Standard is 11-23. I got 12-27. I could use the 11-23 on
    the track, but on the road, with the hills around our place, 12-27 was
    more realistic. My son manages fine with 11-23. Didn't cost extra for
    the gearing change.

    We are starting to do bunch rides. Both bikes work well. I've just got
    to keep my engine in good shape.

    My experience is that even with quite different geometries, when
    adjusted correctly, both bikes are effective, and give a good ride. I
    suspect that will be the same going from brand to brand, so for me, the
    actual nature of the frame became less important than the gear on the
    bike. The Ultegra is high quality, and the bike was pure Ultegra,( not
    just some Ultegra) for the price. No other pure Ultegra bike came close
    for price.

    If your budget can stretch, see if the dealer can swap out the Shimano
    550 wheels for 600 wheels - maybe $200 more. This would make it a weapon
    for the money. I'm going to get some 600 wheels for use with the
    standard Michelin Pro2 Race tyres on the track, and use the 550 wheels
    for training and general road rides, with rugged Continental GP4000 tyres.

    The Bike Buyers Guide in the newsagents has the specs on thousands of
    bikes - it might help.

    You've got plenty of time to choose, and the '07 bikes start becoming
    available from September, so the models will change later in the year.

    Hope this helps.

    Keep the black stuff down,

    Ashley

    OzCableguy said:

    Ok, the kilos are coming off and the times are coming down so sometime in
    the next 6 to 12 months (probably closer to the latter) I hope to get to a
    level of fitness where I can get in on some bunch rides. Naturally starting
    off on some recovery rides and working up to the quicker ones over time. So
    the time has come to start putting away some $$ for an appropriate roadie of
    some sort.
    Initially I was thinking something around $1-1500 or so like a Giant OCR
    type thing but there seems to be some groovy stuff in the $1500-2000 bracket
    like the Specialized Allez Sport type of bike.
    So, how much should I be spending to get a reasonably competitive bike with
    a reasonable level of comfort? Am I looking at the right types of bikes for
    the task? Which price bracket represents the best value for money?
    Seems to be hundreds of makes and models to choose from. I guess the main
    thing is to get the one that fits and feels the best once you're in the
    right price bracket to get the right quality, but any pointers will be
    appreciated.

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