Specialized Allez Sport vs Elite? Can't decide.

Barond55 said:

I am currently looking to get beginner level road bike. I have been mountain biking for a few years now in Colorado and have decided to get on the road. I seem to be sold on either the Specialized Allez Sport or Elite (both triple). The Elite is a little out of my budget, which is where the problem comes in. I like the sport, but I have heard they have problems with the wheels (even with people weighing 150 to 160 lbs. I weigh about 170), so I was going to upgrade to Bontrager Race which would put the sport at only $150 behind the elite ($1030 vs $1150). The elite is a great bike but a little to expensive. On top of riding in the mountains during the summer I will also use it to ride to school back in Texas. I am in law school at SMU in Dallas and don't have much time to train so I figured I would just ride to school. My questions are:

1) Are there really problems w/ the sport's wheels or is it just a few angry owners?
2) If there aren't problems, should I just get the sport for $850, add the wheels making it $1030, or get the elite for $1150. And will I really notice all the differences as a newbie?
3) If there are problems should I just fork over the $150 and get the 105 components?

-I am trying to make my decision in the next day or so. If you have any advice, I would really appreciate it. Also if you have suggestions to other bikes that would be great also.

Thank,
Matt

You probably WON'T notice the difference in the beginning ... 105 components ARE better than the (presumably) Tiagra which are on the less expensive of the two bikes ... BUT, the biggest difference in Shimano components in various groups is weight-and-finish, with the lesser components weighing more, but generally being AS FUNCTIONAL & RELIABLE.

The difference in the various shifters in the various groups is probably more significant than the day-to-day difference between the other components in a given group.

If, for example, you had a choice between 105-or-Ultegra shifters and the rest of the components being from the bottom tier group OR 105-or-Ultegra everything-but-the-shifters + bottom tier shifters, you would be better served to spend the money on the better shifters and lesser components.

BUT, Tiagra is NOT the BOTTOM TIER ... and, apparently "okay."

I don't know about "angry owners"; but, I suspect THAT to be the case ... if you have problems, have the wheels serviced under warranty (buy the bike after you get to Dallas if you're going to have a shop do the maintenance and/or warranty service -- the first year's tune-ups should be included in the price and the warranty service should be universally available during the warranty period) ....

Regardless, you can buy the second set of wheels IF-AND-AFTER you determine that the "stock" wheels are inadequate, or not, AND out of warranty.

FWIW. If I were spending $1150 + tax, I think I'd try to find a bike with Campagnolo Veloce (or, Mirage) components ...

I'd buy the lesser of the two bikes, and upgrade later. Heck, I'd buy the lesser of the two bikes & pull the shifters off, sell them on eBay and get a pair of Campagnolo Veloce shifters on eBay (which CAN be used with Shimano components -- contact me if/when that time comes if you need particulars).

THREE years from now, God willing, you'll have your JD and can pony up more (presuming your loans aren't killing you) for a bike OR new components (hey, you'll be working 60-to-80+ hours a week ... riding will become THE luxury in your life).

TEN years from now, God willing, you'll be making partner somewhere, and then you can buy a Colnago or Merkx or whatever strikes your fancy at the time.

I think that MOST bike shops put their ready-to-ride-bike inventory ON SALE at the beginning of July ... so, you can expect to pay about 20% less than you would pay in March; OR, in the next few days.

alfeng said:

You probably WON'T notice the difference in the beginning ... 105 components ARE better than the (presumably) Tiagra which are on the less expensive of the two bikes ... BUT, the biggest difference in Shimano components in various groups is weight-and-finish, with the lesser components weighing more, but generally being AS FUNCTIONAL & RELIABLE.

The difference in the various shifters in the various groups is probably more significant than the day-to-day difference between the other components in a given group.

If, for example, you had a choice between 105-or-Ultegra shifters and the rest of the components being from the bottom tier group OR 105-or-Ultegra everything-but-the-shifters + bottom tier shifters, you would be better served to spend the money on the better shifters and lesser components.

BUT, Tiagra is NOT the BOTTOM TIER ... and, apparently "okay."

I don't know about "angry owners"; but, I suspect THAT to be the case ... if you have problems, have the wheels serviced under warranty (buy the bike after you get to Dallas if you're going to have a shop do the maintenance and/or warranty service -- the first year's tune-ups should be included in the price and the warranty service should be universally available during the warranty period) ....

Regardless, you can buy the second set of wheels IF-AND-AFTER you determine that the "stock" wheels are inadequate, or not, AND out of warranty.

FWIW. If I were spending $1150 + tax, I think I'd try to find a bike with Campagnolo Veloce (or, Mirage) components ...

I'd buy the lesser of the two bikes, and upgrade later. Heck, I'd buy the lesser of the two bikes & pull the shifters off, sell them on eBay and get a pair of Campagnolo Veloce shifters on eBay (which CAN be used with Shimano components -- contact me if/when that time comes if you need particulars).

THREE years from now, God willing, you'll have your JD and can pony up more (presuming your loans aren't killing you) for a bike OR new components (hey, you'll be working 60-to-80+ hours a week ... riding will become THE luxury in your life).

TEN years from now, God willing, you'll be making partner somewhere, and then you can buy a Colnago or Merkx or whatever strikes your fancy at the time.

I think that MOST bike shops put their ready-to-ride-bike inventory ON SALE at the beginning of July ... so, you can expect to pay about 20% less than you would pay in March; OR, in the next few days.

Thanks for the advice. The situation is this: I am moving to Colorado for the summer (guiding fly fishing), so I am currently in Dallas (just finished my 1L year, thank God). I really would like to have the bike in Co, thats the reason I am trying to buy it before I leave. I will be leaving for Co in 2 days.The dealer provides free maintainence as long as I have the bike, which I figure is a great deal. Also if I wait until July, I will be in Co and I don't want to buy it there. Additionally, I think I am a 56, which I hear is the most popular, so there probably won't even be any left when I get back in Aug.

The reason I was thinking about getting the Bontrager Race (comes w/ wheels and tires) is b/c they will switch them out and cut the cost to $179 from $279. I know that the factory will replace the stock ones if I have problems, but if I am in Co i don't want to be w/o the bike for a month. I really want to take advantage of riding in Co while I am there.
Is a wheel upgrade a necessity (or a good investment) later making it smart to get the credit now? And, do wheels really make a big difference as far as resistence (for example b/t the bontrager race and what comes on it now)? I think I am going with the sport after your input, b/c I went in with an $850 (which puts me at around a $1000 with pedals and tax) and now things are getting up to 1200-1300 in a blink of the eye. Would the wheels be a good investment (how long would I most likely keep them)? I really love riding, so I figure that I will be putting 25+ miles a day through the mountains.

So basically, after all of this rambling, what would you do?
1. basic allez sport $850 (then upgrade to compagnola veloce, which I will probably have plenty of questions about later)
2. sport w/ bontrager race wheels $1029
3. or elite for $1150
- I figure that I don't really need the 105 b/c I won't know the difference now.
4. Also, if you would suggest a whole new bike for around 850 to 1000, i'm all ears.

Also, I am planning on getting pedals that will fit my mountain bike shoes for $59. This is jsut to save the cost of nicer pedals and another pair of shoes. Is this smart?

• In conclusion (haha, law school talking), my plan is this:
  

-Buy the Sport,
-then probably, depending on what you suggest, the bontrager race wheel set & mountain bike pedals. This is only b/c I can save a $100 for the basic wheels if I do the swap.

-You have no idea how much I appreciate the expertise.

Thanks,
Matt

Barond55 said:

Thanks for the advice. The situation is this: I am moving to Colorado for the summer (guiding fly fishing), so I am currently in Dallas (just finished my 1L year, thank God). I really would like to have the bike in Co, thats the reason I am trying to buy it before I leave. I will be leaving for Co in 2 days.The dealer provides free maintainence as long as I have the bike, which I figure is a great deal. Also if I wait until July, I will be in Co and I don't want to buy it there. Additionally, I think I am a 56, which I hear is the most popular, so there probably won't even be any left when I get back in Aug.

The reason I was thinking about getting the Bontrager Race (comes w/ wheels and tires) is b/c they will switch them out and cut the cost to $179 from $279. I know that the factory will replace the stock ones if I have problems, but if I am in Co i don't want to be w/o the bike for a month. I really want to take advantage of riding in Co while I am there.
Is a wheel upgrade a necessity (or a good investment) later making it smart to get the credit now? And, do wheels really make a big difference as far as resistence (for example b/t the bontrager race and what comes on it now)? I think I am going with the sport after your input, b/c I went in with an $850 (which puts me at around a $1000 with pedals and tax) and now things are getting up to 1200-1300 in a blink of the eye. Would the wheels be a good investment (how long would I most likely keep them)? I really love riding, so I figure that I will be putting 25+ miles a day through the mountains.

So basically, after all of this rambling, what would you do?
1. basic allez sport $850 (then upgrade to compagnola veloce, which I will probably have plenty of questions about later)
2. sport w/ bontrager race wheels $1029
3. or elite for $1150
- I figure that I don't really need the 105 b/c I won't know the difference now.
4. Also, if you would suggest a whole new bike for around 850 to 1000, i'm all ears.

Also, I am planning on getting pedals that will fit my mountain bike shoes for $59. This is jsut to save the cost of nicer pedals and another pair of shoes. Is this smart?

• In conclusion (haha, law school talking), my plan is this:
  

-Buy the Sport,
-then probably, depending on what you suggest, the bontrager race wheel set & mountain bike pedals. This is only b/c I can save a $100 for the basic wheels if I do the swap.

-You have no idea how much I appreciate the expertise.

Thanks,
Matt

I'm riding an 04 Allez Comp Double, I think you'll really like the bike (I love mine). Drive-trains, shifters, etc. tend to be a matter of opinion when you get into anything above the entry level stuff. There are as many Shimano fans as Campy fans. The fact is both work well from everything I've read. (I ride Shimano).

As far as the wheels, why not buy the sport as is? You may find that the wheels suit you fine. If not, upgrade later to something in the 300-400 range. You can get some decent wheels for that money via Ebay, or even custom built. That leads to more $, but it also gives you a back up set of wheels if you need them.

On the upside, if you DO like the wheels it comes with, you're going to save some $ on the front end... at least until the fever hits you.. then you'll WANT to upgrade.

Good luck with whatever you do!

John

Barond55 said:

Thanks for the advice. The situation is this: I am moving to Colorado for the summer (guiding fly fishing), so I am currently in Dallas (just finished my 1L year, thank God). I really would like to have the bike in Co, thats the reason I am trying to buy it before I leave. I will be leaving for Co in 2 days.The dealer provides free maintainence as long as I have the bike, which I figure is a great deal. Also if I wait until July, I will be in Co and I don't want to buy it there. Additionally, I think I am a 56, which I hear is the most popular, so there probably won't even be any left when I get back in Aug.

The reason I was thinking about getting the Bontrager Race (comes w/ wheels and tires) is b/c they will switch them out and cut the cost to $179 from $279. I know that the factory will replace the stock ones if I have problems, but if I am in Co i don't want to be w/o the bike for a month. I really want to take advantage of riding in Co while I am there.
Is a wheel upgrade a necessity (or a good investment) later making it smart to get the credit now? And, do wheels really make a big difference as far as resistence (for example b/t the bontrager race and what comes on it now)? I think I am going with the sport after your input, b/c I went in with an $850 (which puts me at around a $1000 with pedals and tax) and now things are getting up to 1200-1300 in a blink of the eye. Would the wheels be a good investment (how long would I most likely keep them)? I really love riding, so I figure that I will be putting 25+ miles a day through the mountains.

So basically, after all of this rambling, what would you do?
1. basic allez sport $850 (then upgrade to compagnola veloce, which I will probably have plenty of questions about later)
2. sport w/ bontrager race wheels $1029
3. or elite for $1150
- I figure that I don't really need the 105 b/c I won't know the difference now.
4. Also, if you would suggest a whole new bike for around 850 to 1000, i'm all ears.

Also, I am planning on getting pedals that will fit my mountain bike shoes for $59. This is jsut to save the cost of nicer pedals and another pair of shoes. Is this smart?

• In conclusion (haha, law school talking), my plan is this:
  

-Buy the Sport,
-then probably, depending on what you suggest, the bontrager race wheel set & mountain bike pedals. This is only b/c I can save a $100 for the basic wheels if I do the swap.

-You have no idea how much I appreciate the expertise.

Thanks,
Matt

I agree with Mansmind that you'll be happy with whichever Specialized that you might select ...

BUT, after thinking about your situation (as I understand it), although you are thinking about a new road bike, MY RECOMMENDATION (and, others may disagree) is that you consider simply going with 26" slicks on your existing mountain bike wheels (presuming they are 559-17) for the FIRST month because I think that you will find the elevation of the mountain roads to be a bit extreme for someone coming from the plains of Texas.

The first attachment (if I show this picture one more time, I may actually have to finish building it) is an extreme makeover of an extra hardtail I have -- the frame's virtual top tube is 54cm which is the size road frame I generally ride.

The front end is all-road -- I used an extra (!?!) road fork, Campagnolo Ergo shifters, etc.

I chose to lace a 700c rim on a 135mm MTB hub; and, the front wheel is also 700c; but, I would have mounted 26" wheels + slicks if I didn't have so many 700c tires ...

The crank happens to be ISIS -- instead of a standard road BB, I used a 118mm ISIS bottom bracket to ensure the crank arms would clear the stays.

A 52/39-or-38 mated to an 11-32 or 12-34 should give you sufficent range since that wussy range works for me for the mountain roads to the east of Albuquerque.

The bridge on the rear stays which is "drilled" for fenders was low enough that I could mount a Tektro long reach road caliper after enlarging the backside of the hole to allow the recessed nut to fit -- I think a regular caliper may actually fit, too.

ERGO SHIFTERS. I've used Shimano shifters, and I "love" Shimano components ... but, the ERGO shifters are both subjectively & quantitatively better for non-Flatlander riding (DA shifters may be different).

The beauty of Campagnolo's ERGO shifters is that they do NOT balk when downshifting onto a larger cog when-under-load (i.e., already going uphill) -- a good thing -- presuming your cassette has another cog!. I cannot say the same thing for Shimano's Ultegra 6500 (9-speed) shifters, and resorted to a triple with a granny for bailing out.

With the ERGO shifters, the CHAIN moves in the direction you are pressing the respective lever-or-button -- HOW GREAT IS THAT?!?

So, if you want to move the chain to a larger cog in the rear, you press the shifting blade behind the RIGHT brake lever TO THE LEFT.

If you want to move the chain DOWN to a smaller cog, you press the RIGHT thumb lever DOWN.

Similarly, if you want to move the chain to the RIGHT onto a larger chain ring, you press the shift blade on the LEFT (front) lever to the RIGHT -- generally, two "clicks" to move to a different chainring.

AND, yes, to move the chain DOWN to the smaller chain ring(s), you press the thumb lever DOWN (again, generally, two "clicks"😉.

The Campagnolo ERGO shifters are capable of shifting across THREE cogs (in the rear) per shift.

The "quick release" to allow the tires to clear the brake pads are on the levers -- you will see PINS which can slide left-and-right which are nestled in the notches above the brake's pivot pins.

I was on the verge of moving the RAPID RISE (reverse-pull) rear derailleur from my mountain bike to my road bike in the hopes of ensuring efficient downshifting while hill climbing before I tried Campagnolo's ERGO shifters!

There are so many nice bikes, even in the $800-$1000 range ... which would be a great basis for current riding and future upgrading ...

If you choose to simply re-cobble your MTB with slicks and/or a road crank, you'll know by July (when the sales will be in full effect) whether you want a road bike this year, or next.

Shimano makes a 48t 104BCD Shimano ring (presuming you have a 4-arm 104BCD crank) if you want higher gearing without going with a road crank; so, you could probably re-outfit your existing mountain bike for under $150 (most of the cost depends on the tires you decide to buy).

The second picture shows one of my "regular" road bikes set up with a Shimano MTB cassette & Shimano MTB rear derailleur + Campagnolo ERGO shifters.

Supposedly, most competitive road teams train on traditionally laced 32x3 wheels -- a set of MAVIC OPEN PRO rims laced to Ultegra hubs will cost between $200-to-$300 (depending on how you buy them ... eBay vs. retail). As noted, eBay is something to scope out when you have the time so you can get a sense of prices ...

ROAD FRAME SIZE. A 56cm (c-c) is probably a good size for someone who is 5'10" to 6'0" AND a 58cm frame is probably good for someone who is from 5'11 to 6'2" ... it depends on the individual's preferences. I'm about 5'9" and I am currently riding a seemingly diminutive 52cm (c-c) or 53cm frame with top tubes between 54cm & 56cm (the top of the saddle is 28.25" above the center of the BB ... the cranks are 175mm).

My OLD touring bike was a 57cm ... my first LBS bike was a 24"/60cm Gitane!

Sizing sensibilities also depends on the bike shop and how you ride. With the larger frames, I was mostly in the drops all the time; and, with the smaller frames I am on the hoods or tops; so, my on-the-bike body position hasn't really changed significantly over the years.

Check COLORADO CYCLIST (coloradocyclist.comcoloradocyclist.comOpen ↗) when you are in the vicinity of Boulder (northwest of Denver -- a bit out of the way from I-70, but probably worth the trip, once) ... SOMETIMES, they have pretty nice road bikes ON SALE for about $1300 which they retail for about $1800 in the Springtime ...

alfeng said:

I agree with Mansmind that you'll be happy with whichever Specialized that you might select ...

BUT, after thinking about your situation (as I understand it), although you are thinking about a new road bike, MY RECOMMENDATION (and, others may disagree) is that you consider simply going with 26" slicks on your existing mountain bike wheels (presuming they are 559-17) for the FIRST month because I think that you will find the elevation of the mountain roads to be a bit extreme for someone coming from the plains of Texas.

The first attachment (if I show this picture one more time, I may actually have to finish building it) is an extreme makeover of an extra hardtail I have -- the frame's virtual top tube is 54cm which is the size road frame I generally ride.

The front end is all-road -- I used an extra (!?!) road fork, Campagnolo Ergo shifters, etc.

I chose to lace a 700c rim on a 135mm MTB hub; and, the front wheel is also 700c; but, I would have mounted 26" wheels + slicks if I didn't have so many 700c tires ...

The crank happens to be ISIS -- instead of a standard road BB, I used a 118mm ISIS bottom bracket to ensure the crank arms would clear the stays.

A 52/39-or-38 mated to an 11-32 or 12-34 should give you sufficent range since that wussy range works for me for the mountain roads to the east of Albuquerque.

The bridge on the rear stays which is "drilled" for fenders was low enough that I could mount a Tektro long reach road caliper after enlarging the backside of the hole to allow the recessed nut to fit -- I think a regular caliper may actually fit, too.

ERGO SHIFTERS. I've used Shimano shifters, and I "love" Shimano components ... but, the ERGO shifters are both subjectively & quantitatively better for non-Flatlander riding (DA shifters may be different).

The beauty of Campagnolo's ERGO shifters is that they do NOT balk when downshifting onto a larger cog when-under-load (i.e., already going uphill) -- a good thing -- presuming your cassette has another cog!. I cannot say the same thing for Shimano's Ultegra 6500 (9-speed) shifters, and resorted to a triple with a granny for bailing out.

With the ERGO shifters, the CHAIN moves in the direction you are pressing the respective lever-or-button -- HOW GREAT IS THAT?!?

So, if you want to move the chain to a larger cog in the rear, you press the shifting blade behind the RIGHT brake lever TO THE LEFT.

If you want to move the chain DOWN to a smaller cog, you press the RIGHT thumb lever DOWN.

Similarly, if you want to move the chain to the RIGHT onto a larger chain ring, you press the shift blade on the LEFT (front) lever to the RIGHT -- generally, two "clicks" to move to a different chainring.

AND, yes, to move the chain DOWN to the smaller chain ring(s), you press the thumb lever DOWN (again, generally, two "clicks"😉.

The Campagnolo ERGO shifters are capable of shifting across THREE cogs (in the rear) per shift.

The "quick release" to allow the tires to clear the brake pads are on the levers -- you will see PINS which can slide left-and-right which are nestled in the notches above the brake's pivot pins.

I was on the verge of moving the RAPID RISE (reverse-pull) rear derailleur from my mountain bike to my road bike in the hopes of ensuring efficient downshifting while hill climbing before I tried Campagnolo's ERGO shifters!

There are so many nice bikes, even in the $800-$1000 range ... which would be a great basis for current riding and future upgrading ...

If you choose to simply re-cobble your MTB with slicks and/or a road crank, you'll know by July (when the sales will be in full effect) whether you want a road bike this year, or next.

Shimano makes a 48t 104BCD Shimano ring (presuming you have a 4-arm 104BCD crank) if you want higher gearing without going with a road crank; so, you could probably re-outfit your existing mountain bike for under $150 (most of the cost depends on the tires you decide to buy).

The second picture shows one of my "regular" road bikes set up with a Shimano MTB cassette & Shimano MTB rear derailleur + Campagnolo ERGO shifters.

Supposedly, most competitive road teams train on traditionally laced 32x3 wheels -- a set of MAVIC OPEN PRO rims laced to Ultegra hubs will cost between $200-to-$300 (depending on how you buy them ... eBay vs. retail). As noted, eBay is something to scope out when you have the time so you can get a sense of prices ...

ROAD FRAME SIZE. A 56cm (c-c) is probably a good size for someone who is 5'10" to 6'0" AND a 58cm frame is probably good for someone who is from 5'11 to 6'2" ... it depends on the individual's preferences. I'm about 5'9" and I am currently riding a seemingly diminutive 52cm (c-c) or 53cm frame with top tubes between 54cm & 56cm (the top of the saddle is 28.25" above the center of the BB ... the cranks are 175mm).

My OLD touring bike was a 57cm ... my first LBS bike was a 24"/60cm Gitane!

Sizing sensibilities also depends on the bike shop and how you ride. With the larger frames, I was mostly in the drops all the time; and, with the smaller frames I am on the hoods or tops; so, my on-the-bike body position hasn't really changed significantly over the years.

Check COLORADO CYCLIST (coloradocyclist.comcoloradocyclist.comOpen ↗) when you are in the vicinity of Boulder (northwest of Denver -- a bit out of the way from I-70, but probably worth the trip, once) ... SOMETIMES, they have pretty nice road bikes ON SALE for about $1300 which they retail for about $1800 in the Springtime ...

Interesting idea!!

I wasn't aware that ergo shifters were that much easier to shift while climbing (I've never used them). I don't really have a problem doing with Shimano (Ultegra), but I may if I tried something else!

I've seen several references to shifting up or down 3 gears with Campy, and I have a question. I can shift DOWN my Ultegra by 3 gears, but I can shift up only one at a time. Is that the difference or am I missing something?

Thanks,

John

Mansmind said:

Interesting idea!!

I wasn't aware that ergo shifters were that much easier to shift while climbing (I've never used them). I don't really have a problem doing with Shimano (Ultegra), but I may if I tried something else!

I've seen several references to shifting up or down 3 gears with Campy, and I have a question. I can shift DOWN my Ultegra by 3 gears, but I can shift up only one at a time. Is that the difference or am I missing something?

Thanks,

John

AFAIK, you can only downshift ONE cog at a time with Shimano shifters ...

Heck, I don't recall being able to upshift more than ONE cog with our Ultegra shifters ... maybe, I didn't try hard enough!

The mulitple cog shifts ARE one reason I prefer the Campagnolo shifters ... BUT, the ease (at least, in my mind) that the Campagnolo ERGO shifters can downshift is a HUGE factor that I had not anticipated because no one else stresses it, AFAIK.

The least expensive Campagnolo shifter IS as mechanically efficient as the most expensive, IMO -- most of the internal components are interchangeable ... the most expensive ULTRA Record now has teflon coated bits to essentially eliminate any break-in period.

alfeng said:

AFAIK, you can only downshift ONE cog at a time with Shimano shifters ...

Heck, I don't recall being able to upshift more than ONE cog with our Ultegra shifters ... maybe, I didn't try hard enough!

The mulitple cog shifts ARE one reason I prefer the Campagnolo shifters ... BUT, the ease (at least, in my mind) that the Campagnolo ERGO shifters can downshift is a HUGE factor that I had not anticipated because no one else stresses it, AFAIK.

The least expensive Campagnolo shifter IS as mechanically efficient as the most expensive, IMO -- most of the internal components are interchangeable ... the most expensive ULTRA Record now has teflon coated bits to essentially eliminate any break-in period.

You can definitely downshift 3 cogs, but upshift only one. It IS strange that it works downshifting but not upshifting. I suppose it makes a weird kind of sense in that you would not normally need to upshift that quickly, but why not make it possible? lol

I'll have to ride a Campy bike, I need something to compare my current experience with 🙂

I rode an allez sport for almost 2 years, and I can say that it is a reliable bike for a newbie that will do anything you want it to do. Of course, you'll want to upgrade to something a little more plush in a few years, but I wouldn't worry about it for now. The wheels suck, though. I had 10+ spokes break on both the back and the front... and eventually I got the shop to replace my stock wheels for a nice alex wheelset, which works just fine. Between the sport and the elite, I'd say flip a coin for all the difference it makes. You could always buy the sport and then make the LBS replace the wheels when they break down, like they did for me.

AmpedCycle said:

I rode an allez sport for almost 2 years, and I can say that it is a reliable bike for a newbie that will do anything you want it to do. Of course, you'll want to upgrade to something a little more plush in a few years, but I wouldn't worry about it for now. The wheels suck, though. I had 10+ spokes break on both the back and the front... and eventually I got the shop to replace my stock wheels for a nice alex wheelset, which works just fine. Between the sport and the elite, I'd say flip a coin for all the difference it makes. You could always buy the sport and then make the LBS replace the wheels when they break down, like they did for me.

Thanks for the input. I typically would just let the LBS replace the wheels when they break down, but I will be in Colorado for 2 1/2 months and it a spoke breaks, I will have to mail it in. If I do that, it costs me to ship it and at least 2-3 weeks of riding. That is my only big concern when buying the Sport, otherwise I would just buy it basic and upgrade later, which I might do anyway. It just sucks cause I don't know jack about road bikes and I know I could probably get a better deal on the net w/ one of the bikes alfeng suggested, but I feel nervous b/c of warranty and maintenance costs that come in. My lbs gives me free mantinenance for life and i know what if anything goes wrong I just have to drive up there and tell them.

Did the spokes just break from normal riding or where the roads pretty rough? And also what do you think about upgrade to the Bontrager Race for $179, or should that be somthing done later?

Thanks,
Matt

Barond55 said:

Thanks for the input. I typically would just let the LBS replace the wheels when they break down, but I will be in Colorado for 2 1/2 months and it a spoke breaks, I will have to mail it in. If I do that, it costs me to ship it and at least 2-3 weeks of riding. That is my only big concern when buying the Sport, otherwise I would just buy it basic and upgrade later, which I might do anyway. It just sucks cause I don't know jack about road bikes and I know I could probably get a better deal on the net w/ one of the bikes alfeng suggested, but I feel nervous b/c of warranty and maintenance costs that come in. My lbs gives me free mantinenance for life and i know what if anything goes wrong I just have to drive up there and tell them.

Did the spokes just break from normal riding or where the roads pretty rough? And also what do you think about upgrade to the Bontrager Race for $179, or should that be somthing done later?

Thanks,
Matt

They broke from normal riding. The stock wheels are just completely lousy. Upgrade now before it's too late! You might as well put some armadillo elite tires on there too.

I've been riding a allez sport for two seasons now. It is a great bike. I have made some upgrades, wheels [korsos which I got for $89!!!], switched out the triple crank for a shimano 105 double, and replaced the tiagra front derailleur with a 105. A couple hundred toget closer to what I want, but I was able to buy in for a price I could afford, and the Allez Sport frame is stout and serviceable. It has an aggressive stance, and is a good climber. I bought a 52C frame [I'm 5"10"] and extended the stem from 100c to 120c. It quieted the jitteriness the bike had. Anyway, It is a great bike no doubt.

liveSTRONG,

[Brother]Mark

Barond55 said:

The reason I was thinking about getting the Bontrager Race (comes w/ wheels and tires) is b/c they will switch them out and cut the cost to $179 from $279. I know that the factory will replace the stock ones if I have
Matt

Best to reply to me offline to make sure that you get a reply from me. I have to look and see which wheels that I have. I just bought one of these bikes from the LBS. I have easily put 750 miles on it without any problems on the wheels. The only thing that I changed was the stem in order to try to make it fit right.

Just get decent shifters. I mean decent in that you are able to reach controls from all positions and feel comfortable in do soing. I don't like the sora shifters which are similar in look to Campy, but they campy are much better in functionality.

bill