Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

How to improve signal connection of Polar sensors

Started by Lada-czech · · Last activity · 7 posts · 1,782 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
23 September 2003
Last activity
27 September 2003
Original author
Lada-czech
Posts
7
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  1. May be some of you knows. Do you know that you can trade off power of signal connection from the sensors for battery energy consumption?
    Step by Step
    - you will need only a small screwdriver and you nails.
    1) take the sensor (speed, cadence, power) and unscrew the two screws from cap (the part which is connected to you bike)
    2)take out the cap
    3)pull out the small green board with the electronics SMD components.
    4)on the reverse side you see battery and jumpers - 3. The jumpers are not (should not be) connected yet.
    5) connect the jumpers with the pin/clip from left to right you increase the power of signal. Basically there are three options -noone connected, two from right or left side
    6) Try it how to work for you and assemble the sensor back.

    YOu can inscrease the power appr. 2 times. Which decrease the life time of battery about 1/3.

    THE RESULT: you will get much better/raliable connection and you will have to change the battery e.g. not every 2 yeras but every 1.3 year.

    For me it is very good trade off and works fine.

  2. Nice tip - thanks. I've been growing tired of my cadence sensor working every third rotation so I'll definitely give it a try.

  3. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Cletus75
    Nice tip - thanks. I've been growing tired of my cadence sensor working every third rotation so I'll definitely give it a try.

    before you change the jumpers make sure you have a good chest connection on your transmitter. Too high or too low on my chest make a difference and I need to have the strap tight enough that the two pick up areas of the transmitter are tight against my skin.

  4. A good point, but I doubt that the strength of the HR signal (which hasn't been a problem anyway) has much to do with the cadence and speed sensors on the bike...

    I added the cadence sensor when I bought my current bike, thinking I could leave the Cateye Astrale on the old one. But the sensor is temperamental - it will work just fine for 10 mins, then decide to have a break for 20 mins or so. I ended up having to transfer the Astrale across anyway...

  5. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Lada-czech
    May be some of you knows. Do you know that you can trade off power of signal connection from the sensors for battery energy consumption?
    Step by Step
    - you will need only a small screwdriver and you nails.
    1) take the sensor (speed, cadence, power) and unscrew the two screws from cap (the part which is connected to you bike)
    2)take out the cap
    3)pull out the small green board with the electronics SMD components.
    4)on the reverse side you see battery and jumpers - 3. The jumpers are not (should not be) connected yet.
    5) connect the jumpers with the pin/clip from left to right you increase the power of signal. Basically there are three options -noone connected, two from right or left side
    6) Try it how to work for you and assemble the sensor back.

    YOu can inscrease the power appr. 2 times. Which decrease the life time of battery about 1/3.

    THE RESULT: you will get much better/raliable connection and you will have to change the battery e.g. not every 2 yeras but every 1.3 year.

    For me it is very good trade off and works fine.

    Nice tip, thanks!

    I'll give this a go, I hate how messy it looks having the sensors all over the bike the cadence sensor is on the downtube and angled over to get close to the sensor on the crank and it looks goofy and is vulnerable to getting knocked around as well... maybe if I could get cadence on the chainstay and speed off the seatstay it would be a bit cleaner... I hesitated in trying this before because the transmitters were too far away...

    Thanks again!

    Feanor

  6. I might have to give this a go, I have a lot of trouble with the front wheel sensor not picking up properly, I guess this is caused by wheel flex?

    thanks for the tip!

    cheers

  7. I bought a S720i and a Power Output sensor 2 month ago.
    After a few weeks, I experienced problems with the connection between the metal pins (on the bike mount) and the back cover of the wristwatch receiver : more and more frequently the S720i receiver looses the signal sent by the Power Output Sendor.
    Consequently, the S720i does not display anymore speed, cadence, power, ...
    I checked that the wristwatch receiver is correctly installed on the bike mount but this is not sufficient.
    During the first weeks, this problem occurred only when riding on roads made of paving stones but now (after 2 months), it happens 50% of the time !!!
    I find this unacceptable for such high-end HRM

    Polar support replied to use a contact spray to clean-up the contacts - I will try.
    This problem should be mentionned in the FAQ and the trouble shooting part of the user guide of the Power Output Sensor.

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