Drop bar and stem choice

Artoi said:

Presently I am looking at the Ritchey WCS range. Anyone have any
comments or suggestions? Thanks.

Only that the WCS stem I just got doesn't grip the steerer as well as
the Deda Newton I had before. It seems not everybody's 28.6mms are the
same...

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

"Kinky Cowboy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Artoi said:

Presently I am looking at the Ritchey WCS range. Anyone have any
comments or suggestions? Thanks.

Only that the WCS stem I just got doesn't grip the steerer as well as
the Deda Newton I had before. It seems not everybody's 28.6mms are the
same...

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

The Ritchey ergo style bar works well for me on two bikes, YMMV. I like the
shape, and the relatively short reach and drop work for my purposes.

Jeffrey

Artoi said:

I am going to morph my flat bar road bike into a drop bar road bike and
interchange them when needed. 🙂

So the question is, how to choose the drop bar and stem? The obvious
decision issues I understand are weight, stiffness and comfort (probably
in the reverse importance order). But having never really done much
riding with a drop bar, I really aren't sure how comfort is assessed.
Those anatomical bars feels good and makes sense but some complain
bitterly about it.

To each his own. I like the "anatomical" bars with the reverse bend "in
the bends"; it just feels good to my palm. Not everyone has this
experience. It may be related to hand size -- larger hands may do better,
or at least those of us with large hands are not stretching to reach the
brake with these bars.

Quoted message said:

The other aspect is the value of carbon. Sure they look snazzy but are
they really worth the extra $$$? One store guy said that the carbon
front forks which I have are much more effective in the scheme of
things.

Effective at what? Separating your wallet from your money?  What effect
do you think carbon bars have? Yes, they are (marginally) lighter
than aluminum bars, but they accomplish no miracles in terms of
comfort.

Quoted message said:

Also, the difference in weight b/n carbon and alloy is 15g,
hardly worth considering. As for the stem, the alloy one is actually a
tad lighter.

Also, although aluminum may fail rapidly, they do not carry the risk that
a bit of over-tightening could lead to a catastrophic failure. Save the
weight elsewhere. Go for strength.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Enron's slogan: Respect, Communication, Integrity, and
_`\(,_ | Excellence.
(_)/ (_) |

In article <[email hidden]>,

David L. Johnson said:

To each his own. I like the "anatomical" bars with the reverse bend "in
the bends"; it just feels good to my palm. Not everyone has this
experience. It may be related to hand size -- larger hands may do better,
or at least those of us with large hands are not stretching to reach the
brake with these bars.

Yes, the hard part is how to know about it without having the chance to
try the shape over extended time.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

The other aspect is the value of carbon. Sure they look snazzy but are
they really worth the extra $$$? One store guy said that the carbon
front forks which I have are much more effective in the scheme of
things.

Effective at what? Separating your wallet from your money?  What effect
do you think carbon bars have? Yes, they are (marginally) lighter
than aluminum bars, but they accomplish no miracles in terms of
comfort.

Effective at absorbing shocks. The guys suggested that carbon fork would
do most of the work while the benefit of carbon bars are far less
significant.

Quoted message said:

Also, although aluminum may fail rapidly, they do not carry the risk that
a bit of over-tightening could lead to a catastrophic failure. Save the
weight elsewhere. Go for strength.

Yes, I thought of that. It is a significant consideration for such an
important component.
--

Artoi said:

I am going to morph my flat bar road bike into a drop bar road bike and
interchange them when needed. 🙂

So the question is, how to choose the drop bar and stem? The obvious
decision issues I understand are weight, stiffness and comfort (probably
in the reverse importance order). But having never really done much
riding with a drop bar, I really aren't sure how comfort is assessed.
Those anatomical bars feels good and makes sense but some complain
bitterly about it.

The other aspect is the value of carbon. Sure they look snazzy but are
they really worth the extra $$$? One store guy said that the carbon
front forks which I have are much more effective in the scheme of
things. Also, the difference in weight b/n carbon and alloy is 15g,
hardly worth considering. As for the stem, the alloy one is actually a
tad lighter.

Presently I am looking at the Ritchey WCS range. Anyone have any
comments or suggestions? Thanks.

I have a carbon bar on one bike - a cross bike of all things, on which I
had previously broken the handlebars. I like them a lot. Was it worth
$150? I couldn't really say so, but as I say, I do like these bars. They
are Eastons and plenty strong. Maybe not so hot if you crash into a big
rock, but they really do seem to flex less than most alloy bars.

Also, a lot of stems are surprisingly flexy. I like the Salsa SUL, if you
can still find them. Or the Thomson Elite. Absent a clever attachment
mechanism (like the SUL), four bolt stems have been less creaky for me.

By the way, note that the drop bars usually have larger diameter than flat
bars, so you may be forced to change some components, for that reason if
no other.

Ron Abramson

"Artoi" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I am going to morph my flat bar road bike into a drop bar road bike and
interchange them when needed. 🙂

So the question is, how to choose the drop bar and stem? The obvious
decision issues I understand are weight, stiffness and comfort (probably
in the reverse importance order). But having never really done much
riding with a drop bar, I really aren't sure how comfort is assessed.
Those anatomical bars feels good and makes sense but some complain
bitterly about it.

The other aspect is the value of carbon. Sure they look snazzy but are
they really worth the extra $$$? One store guy said that the carbon
front forks which I have are much more effective in the scheme of
things. Also, the difference in weight b/n carbon and alloy is 15g,
hardly worth considering. As for the stem, the alloy one is actually a
tad lighter.

Presently I am looking at the Ritchey WCS range. Anyone have any
comments or suggestions? Thanks.

You can't go wrong with Ritchey WCS stem and WCS classic bars ( don't get
along with any ergo bars). Most carbon combination are heavier and much
more expensive. So there is no other reason then looks and that's personal.

Lou

Artoi said:

I am going to morph my flat bar road bike into a drop bar road bike and
interchange them when needed. 🙂

So the question is, how to choose the drop bar and stem?

If you're interchanging just the handlebars and not the stem, you want
the kind of stem that doesn't require taking off all the tape, brakes,
etc. to separate it from the bars.

In article <[email hidden]>,

Ben C said:

Artoi said:

I am going to morph my flat bar road bike into a drop bar road bike and
interchange them when needed. 🙂

So the question is, how to choose the drop bar and stem?

If you're interchanging just the handlebars and not the stem, you want
the kind of stem that doesn't require taking off all the tape, brakes,
etc. to separate it from the bars.

Yes, I will have to change them en-block with all the cables and tapes
in place. I've explored the logistics of it and all seemed to be easily
doable. Four cables has to be released along with all the guides. LBS's
mechanic claimed that he can do it in 10 mins... Everyone in the store
had a big laugh at his over-inflated ego. 😄
--

In article <[email hidden]>,

ron said:

By the way, note that the drop bars usually have larger diameter than flat
bars, so you may be forced to change some components, for that reason if
no other.

Yes, I am planning to change the bar with the stem attached. So I'll
have a flat bar set along with all the cables and stem that'll detach
from the steerer of the front fork.

Looking at Ritchey's WCS 4 Axis stem and the corresponding drop bar. By
all reports, the combo is plenty stiff. 🙂
--

Artoi said:

I am going to morph my flat bar road bike into a drop bar road bike and
interchange them when needed. 🙂

So the question is, how to choose the drop bar and stem? The obvious
decision issues I understand are weight, stiffness and comfort (probably
in the reverse importance order). But having never really done much
riding with a drop bar, I really aren't sure how comfort is assessed.
Those anatomical bars feels good and makes sense but some complain
bitterly about it.

All 'modern' stems and handelbars are 'stiff'..carbon habrs do not
improve any ride quality, regardless of what the shop clones say. Shape
of the handlebar, width and stem length and rise, all relating to fit,
are how to choose.

Quoted message said:

The other aspect is the value of carbon. Sure they look snazzy but are
they really worth the extra $$$? One store guy said that the carbon
front forks which I have are much more effective in the scheme of
things.

Balederdash...they are lighter is all....

Also, the difference in weight b/n carbon and alloy is 15g,

Quoted message said:

hardly worth considering. As for the stem, the alloy one is actually a
tad lighter.

Presently I am looking at the Ritchey WCS range. Anyone have any
comments or suggestions? Thanks.

Also look at the Ritchey 'Pro' range, less $ and wee bit lighter, same
'gram' range.

Quoted message said:

--

Artoi said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

The other aspect is the value of carbon. Sure they look snazzy but are
they really worth the extra $$$? One store guy said that the carbon
front forks which I have are much more effective in the scheme of
things.

Effective at what? Separating your wallet from your money?  What effect
do you think carbon bars have? Yes, they are (marginally) lighter
than aluminum bars, but they accomplish no miracles in terms of
comfort.

Effective at absorbing shocks. The guys suggested that carbon fork would
do most of the work while the benefit of carbon bars are far less
significant.

For an order of magnitude larger reduction in road shocks, get one size
wider tires and inflate them to 90psi.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | The motor car reflects our standard of living and gauges the
_`\(,_ | speed of our present life. It long ago ran down Simple Living,
(_)/ (_) | and never halted to inquire about the prostrate figure which
fell as its victim. -- Warren G. Harding

"David L. Johnson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Artoi said:

Quoted message said:

> The other aspect is the value of carbon. Sure they look snazzy but are
> they really worth the extra $$$? One store guy said that the carbon
> front forks which I have are much more effective in the scheme of
> things.

Effective at what? Separating your wallet from your money? What effect
do you think carbon bars have? Yes, they are (marginally) lighter
than aluminum bars, but they accomplish no miracles in terms of
comfort.

Effective at absorbing shocks. The guys suggested that carbon fork would
do most of the work while the benefit of carbon bars are far less
significant.

For an order of magnitude larger reduction in road shocks, get one size
wider tires and inflate them to 90psi.

--

Was I the only one who read this?
http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/7391.0.html

The manufacturer's tech folks (at least some of them) say carbon is strong,
stiff and light (just like aluminum), not comfortable.
-Mike

In article <[email hidden]>,

David L. Johnson said:

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 04:29:18 +0000, Artoi wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Effective at absorbing shocks. The guys suggested that carbon fork would
do most of the work while the benefit of carbon bars are far less
significant.

For an order of magnitude larger reduction in road shocks, get one size
wider tires and inflate them to 90psi.

That makes perfect sense unless there's a constraint on tyre size.
--

In article <[email hidden]>,

Mike Owens said:

Was I the only one who read this?
http://www.velonews.com/tech/report/articles/7391.0.html

The manufacturer's tech folks (at least some of them) say carbon is strong,
stiff and light (just like aluminum), not comfortable.

Thanks for the link. Very informative. It's funny how the Easton VP
stood out like a sore thumb in the group.

I note in the Ritchey WCS range, the alloy stem can be lighter than
their carbon stem. While an alloy drop bar isn't that far off from their
carbon counterpart in weight, and the reviews are very positive from a
stiffness point of view.
--

In article <[email hidden]>,

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

All 'modern' stems and handelbars are 'stiff'..carbon habrs do not
improve any ride quality, regardless of what the shop clones say. Shape
of the handlebar, width and stem length and rise, all relating to fit,
are how to choose.

Thanks. That's really the hard part in knowing what is a good fit. For
long term riders it's much easier than newbie.

Quoted message said:

Also look at the Ritchey 'Pro' range, less $ and wee bit lighter, same
'gram' range.

Are they? I'll check them out.
--

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----

In article <[email hidden]>,

Artoi said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

ron said:

By the way, note that the drop bars usually have larger diameter than flat
bars, so you may be forced to change some components, for that reason if
no other.

Yes, I am planning to change the bar with the stem attached. So I'll
have a flat bar set along with all the cables and stem that'll detach
from the steerer of the front fork.

_ This gets a lot easier if you use the tandem shift cable
splitters. I did this for a while on my Surly XCheck, it was
a fun project but as a practical solution, it's probably just
cheaper and simpler to buy another bike. You can get a really
nice road bike for about $700-900 ( Specialized Sequoia). You
can easily spend nearly that much on parts by the time you're
done with this project.

Here's a good link for the cable splitters.

http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_cable.htm

_ Booker C. Bense

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
Version: 2.6.2

iQCVAwUBRR1212TWTAjn5N/lAQFuWQP9HY5iA33LpT8+6QcrXZDjL/pEevXuix78
FBwPB1ZcMf6udRNjKbWFDnZzq7iJXTwTY3FKl/JVmBqIGLLLsNMT0Y3EtI7CXQvq
lD7TnaLf+khiQWQz4p47MQDJ1tt5srHQzRB6FkdbM7hcemtckhn1MDuMPG0uzCjQ
W+fjy9VwnFg=
=tTen
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----