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Cleaning/regreasing a unicycle

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
8 October 2006
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19 October 2006
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monkeyman
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  1. Two days ago, I was riding with some friends, and, all of a sudden, my
    unicycle started making funny clicking noises. I'm not sure why
    they're doing it, but I want to take all the pieces apart, clean them,
    grease 'em up again, and put it back together. Hopefully, this will
    solve the problem (the unicycle hasn't been cleaned/greased at all in
    the ~7 months I've had it).

    To put it simply, when it comes to working on mechanical stuff, I am an
    idiot. I dunno where to start. So what all do I need to do to take it
    all apart, clean it, and put it all back together again? And which
    parts will need to greased after they're all cleaned?

    Thanks to anyone who replies with tips.

    ~Alex

    --
    monkeyman

    Alex, MR addict.

    Into the blue said:

    I wish Alex would change his sig too.


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  2. Check and tighten your wheel. If you have a spline hub, open it and puts
    some locktight in. Your cranks could be making the noise. The pedals
    too, check for play. Also, if you do have splined set up, rotate your
    cranks 45 degrees (it adds to your wheel life). If you have time,
    regrease every bolt on your uni.

    --
    Danni

    Jonny_Peacock said:

    my closing statements to everybody:
    STAY YOURSELF EVERYONE, BE REAL, BE NICE TO EACH OTHER MORE THAN YOU
    WORRY ABOUT UNICYCLING BULLCRAP.

    the jonny


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  3. Danni said:

    If you have time, regrease every bolt on your uni.

    That's what I'm planning to do....i think the main hard part will be
    just figuring out how to take stuff apart/where everything goes back
    together.

    thanks

    --
    monkeyman

    Alex, MR addict.

    Into the blue said:

    I wish Alex would change his sig too.


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  4. Search for the spline mantinence guide. As I remember from your video,
    you have a DX so that should help with the wheel set, which is probably
    all you need to do. Also, check the nuts under the seat, and tighten as
    needed. Just be sure not to overtighten them because the round top part
    will pop off.

    --
    grawistkafn

    Quoted message said:

    Originally Posted by Jerrick
    Only problem with my nipples is when I twisted one the wrong way too
    many times and it popped off

    Quoted message said:

    Originally Posted by Brian MacKenzie
    Have you tried rubbing your nipples with grease before twisting them so
    tightly?


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  5. monkeyman said:

    i think the main hard part will be just figuring out how to take stuff
    apart/where everything goes back together.

    If you have a digital camera, take lots of pictures of each step in the
    disassembly process. Then you've got a trail of how to get it back
    together. Also, I use plastic cups to hold my parts when I take apart
    complex assemblies... you can write on each cup a description of what's
    inside... also you can fill each cup with a little degreaser (I use
    WD-40) so your parts get soaked and and are easier to clean.

    The general rule for how to take stuff apart... you should never have
    to use excessive force. If you feel you need to use force you're
    either using the wrong tool, taking something off in the wrong
    direction, or there's something else that needs to come off first.
    Tools can be expensive but so can broken parts.

    --
    maestro8

    Those are my principles. If you don't like those, I have others. --
    Groucho Marx
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  6. yes, as has already been said, the splined hub of your DX is the
    culprit. splined hubs frequently make noise and creak. its nothing to
    worry about, and to fix it entails simply removing the cranks, wiping
    the dirt ect. out and oiling/greasing it up real well. i find that
    regular cleaning with this foaming lubricant/cleaner keeps the uni in
    prime riding condition.

    as for the complexity of reassembling the parts, this is no difficulty.
    everything has an obvious place (ie, the cranks go on the axle, spacers
    between the cranks and bearings, ect). the only thing you really need
    to watch for is mixing up the right and left cranks, or losing your
    frame bolts. other than that its simple.

    --
    John Doe

    I am all that is everyone
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  7. monkeyman said:


    To put it simply, when it comes to working on mechanical stuff, I am an
    idiot. I dunno where to start.

    You are not an idiot you are just inexperienced. Try to determine the
    source of the problem. Spokes, pedals, scraping. If you narrow it down
    you do less unnecessary work.

    --
    harper

    -Greg Harper

    B L U E S H I F T

    *jc is the only main man. there can be no other.*

    This is still my nth post....*AWESOME!!!*

    "Obviously, you have no sense of humour." - Brian Slater
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  8. I good thing to do is to take the cranks off (axle bolt and pinch bolt),
    grease, and rotate the cranks around. I do this every month or so, it
    stops the crank creaking for awhile anyway.

    --
    forrestunifreak

    If I had a signature, it would look something like this.
    *'My gallery-NAUCC 2006!'
    (http://tinyurl.com/bbf9x)*
    BANANA'S FOR JESUS!
    _____________________________________________
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  9. I find on the DX that when they paint them, they inevitably get some
    paint on the splines. After a bunch of riding, the paint comes loose
    and kinda wiggles around in the spines. So, I like to wire brush the
    splines lightly to get off any loose paint before putting the cranks
    back on.

    The steps to clean/regrease it would be the following:
    1)Take out pinch bolt.
    2)Take out axle bolt.
    3)Take off cranks (this may be difficult as this is the first time
    you've done it.)
    4)Take off bearing caps, and lift off frame.
    5)Slide of washers and spacers, noting carefully the order in which
    they go on. If the bearings come off easily, go ahead and remove those
    too.
    6)Degrease/wipe all parts and splines, including the inside of the
    crank's splines. Scrape/brush off loose paint on spline/crank
    interface.
    7)Regrease the splines with good bike grease/anti-seize, and lightly
    grease everything else (bolts, washers, etc.).
    8)Put the bearings, washers, and spacers back on.
    9)Put the frame back on, and replace the bearing caps. Remember, they
    don't have to be very tight. The wheel should still be able to spin
    freely. Also, it would probably help to put a little Loc-Tite blue on
    the bearing cap bolts.
    10)Slide the cranks back on as far as you can by hand, replace the
    pinch bolt finger tight, and put in/tighten the axle bolt pretty well.
    Then tighten the pinch bolt.
    11)Remove the pedals, clean and grease the threads, and reinstall.
    12)Probably wouldn't hurt (if you have a spoke wrench) to go through
    and tighten the spokes, check the tension, etc.
    11)Ride around a bit, and then re-tighten axle and pinch bolts.
    12)Enjoy the silentness of the uni. mmmm....

    --
    onelesscar

    "It's f*$%^*g raining!"
    "Well, is it f*$%^*g or is it raining?"

    "That car was -melting-????"
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  10. harper said:

    You are not an idiot you are just inexperienced. Try to determine the
    source of the problem. Spokes, pedals, scraping. If you narrow it down
    you do less unnecessary work

    That's what I would be doing, but I figured that while I'm doing some,
    I might as well do all of it, because I haven't done any maintenance in
    the ~7 months I've had it.

    I'm not sure what the actual problem is though...I don't know if it's
    in my head, but when I'm bunny hopping in place, the right crank (front
    foot) makes a funny clicking tension-releasing sound, and it feels like
    I fall forward a little bit (this is the part that I'm not sure
    about...because I've looked at the cranks and alignment, and they look
    perfectly straight.

    Another question: What exactly are splines, and how do I get to them?
    I thought they were many small metal rods inside the frame/cranks/stuff
    to keep them rigid and/or stronger....am I just wrong?

    --
    monkeyman

    Alex, MR addict.

    Into the blue said:

    I wish Alex would change his sig too.


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  11. Splines are ridges on the spindle that keep the cranks from rotating
    around the spindle.

    The two attached pictures are before greasing and after greasing.

    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    |Filename: DSCN3316.jpg |
    |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/15564 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+

    --
    onelesscar

    "It's f*$%^*g raining!"
    "Well, is it f*$%^*g or is it raining?"

    "That car was -melting-????"
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  12. So, if those are crank splines, what are hub splines?

    --
    monkeyman

    Alex, MR addict.

    Into the blue said:

    I wish Alex would change his sig too.


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  13. monkeyman said:

    So, if those are crank splines, what are hub splines?

    The term "splines" discribes the shape of the interface; each one of
    the raised grooves on the hub is a spline. The part of the crank that
    slips on the hub is machined with a matching pattern.

    The splined interface simply a way of firmly attatching the cranks
    without removing very much material (The more metal you machine off of
    the axle, the smaller and weaker it becomes).

    --
    Spudman

    click the dots...
    *'_•_' (www.cathodecorner.com) '_•_' (http://selectric.org/) • • •
    '_•_' (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/main_page) • • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.unicyclepics.co.uk/) • • • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.pandora.com/) • • • '_•_' (http://www.theorylessons.com/) •
    • • • '_•_' (http://www.barefoothippie.com/) '_•_'
    (http://www.nickjantz.2ya.com/) '_•_' (http://www.qu-ax.com/)
    • • '_•_' (http://www.purepwnage.com/) • • • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.gkko.com/) • • • • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.longnow.org/projects/clock/prototype1/) • • • • • • • • •
    '_•_' (http://www.superhandz.com/sportz/penspinning.html) • •
    • • • • '_•_' (http://www.unicyclist.com/?page=donate) • • '_•_'
    (http://www.speedcubing.com/ton/building.htm) • • '_•_'
    (http://www.unicycle.tv/) • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.myspace.com/unicycle_rachel) '_•_' (http://funnyjunk.com/)
    • • • '_•_' (http://www.ericharshbarger.org/lego/) • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.myspace.com/jerrick_crites) • • '_•_'
    (http://www.gocomics.com/comics/index.phtml) •
    '_•_' (http://www.xanga.com/monkeyman305ab) '_•_'
    (http://www.cowabduction.com/) • • • • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.jonnypeacock.com/) • • • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.southparkstudios.com/) • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.teagames.com/) • • • • • '_•_'
    (http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/) • • '_•_' (www.google.com)*
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  14. only two months into engineering school, and spudman is getting all
    technical on us!

    --
    squirrel
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  15. monkeyman said:

    So, if those are crank splines, what are hub splines?

    Those are hub splines in the picture. The cranks are just the oppisite
    of the hub, and the teeth (splines) fit together.
    http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38277

    It all makes sense after you take it apart and put it back together
    again.🙂

    --
    forrestunifreak

    If I had a signature, it would look something like this.
    *'My gallery-NAUCC 2006!'
    (http://tinyurl.com/bbf9x)*
    BANANA'S FOR JESUS!
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  16. well...the good news is, I figured out what's wrong with it...the bad
    news.....

    My DX frame has finally had enough. It's breaking at the infamous
    weld....🙁
    I'm gonna email UDC tomorrow and ask about the warranty

    --
    monkeyman

    Alex, MR addict.

    Into the blue said:

    I wish Alex would change his sig too.


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  17. UDC just sent me an email saying that my frame is on the way to them
    from Torker...they'll send it to me as soon as they get it.

    I can't wait!

    😄

    --
    monkeyman

    Alex, MR addict.

    Into the blue said:

    I wish Alex would change his sig too.


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  18. Nice, but I would personally just bend it straight and weld it for some
    extra strength. Unless you have to ship the frame back to them...

    --
    Borgschulze

    Spare some change for a new unicycle?
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  19. Borgschulze said:

    Nice, but I would personally just bend it straight and weld it for some
    extra strength. Unless you have to ship the frame back to them...

    There's cracks in the actual frame too.

    And either way, it's a free new frame.

    --
    monkeyman

    Alex, MR addict.

    Into the blue said:

    I wish Alex would change his sig too.


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  20. monkeyman said:

    UDC just sent me an email saying that my frame is on the way to them
    from Torker...they'll send it to me as soon as they get it.

    I can't wait!

    😄

    thats what they said to me, and that was like 2 weeks ago.

    and i still havent gotten it.....

    GRRRRRR

    Chase

    --
    Unitik908

    All hail the exhaulted Sigpoose, for he is forever king...
    R.I.P Unibiker
    R.I.P Gazzaloddi
    R.I.P Paul Hester
    R.I.P James Doohan
    R.I.P Mitch Hedberg
    R.I.P Peter Jennings
    R.I.P Pope John Paul II
    R.I.P James_Potters_Cat
    YAMS

    -last edited by the dave and sigpoose on 2005-09-05 at 08:56 pm -
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