Replacing Aheadset bearings

The Blue Frog said:

I have a Marin Palisades Trail (2002) and the steering has got really
rough--on inspection the bearings are rusted, replaced them but still
rough. I think the bearing surface is rough also. (It's surprising
that a bike costing £500 didn't have sealed bearings!)
I'm going to get replacement sealed type for aroung £25 - the size
stated is 1 1/8" - is this the correct size?

I would think so.

Quoted message said:

Also do I need special tools to remove and replace the old bearings?
any advice/experiences appreciated (or should I take it to a bike
shop?)

You'll need either special tools or some bodging and brute force to replace
the head cups, and maybe the race on the forks too. The proper tools are
expensive so only worth buying if you intend to fit a few more headsets in
your life. Cyclus is a good brand for those.

~PB

In article <[email hidden]>

The Blue Frog said:

I have a Marin Palisades Trail (2002) and the steering has got really
rough--on inspection the bearings are rusted, replaced them but still rough.
I think the bearing surface is rough also. (It's surprising that a bike
costing £500 didn't have sealed bearings!)

It's surprising that someone who spends £500 on a bike doesn't maintain
it. :-)

Quoted message said:

I'm going to get replacement sealed type for aroung £25 - the size stated is
1 1/8" - is this the correct size?

1 1/8" is the standard size for ATB headsets.

Quoted message said:

Also do I need special tools to remove and replace the old bearings?

If you're careful you can do it with a hammer, a bit of tubing and a
vice.

Quoted message said:

any advice/experiences appreciated (or should I take it to a bike shop?)

Possibly better to take it to a shop.

On 26/10/2006 19:27, The Blue Frog said,

Quoted message said:

I'm going to get replacement sealed type for aroung £25 - the size stated is
1 1/8" - is this the correct size?

Probably. I've just fitted a Cane Creek S3. About £30, and has
replaceable sealed cartridge bearings.

Quoted message said:

Also do I need special tools to remove and replace the old bearings?
any advice/experiences appreciated (or should I take it to a bike shop?)

My gut feeling is that if you're asking these questions, you probably
ought to take it to a bike shop. It is possible to do it at home with a
hammer and screwdrivers, but you risk damage to the frame, forks and
headset if you mess it up. The bearing cups really do need to be
absolutely square to each other.

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

In article <[email hidden]>

Paul Boyd said:

On 26/10/2006 19:27, The Blue Frog said,

Quoted message said:

I'm going to get replacement sealed type for aroung £25 - the size stated is
1 1/8" - is this the correct size?

Probably. I've just fitted a Cane Creek S3. About £30, and has
replaceable sealed cartridge bearings.

Quoted message said:

Also do I need special tools to remove and replace the old bearings?
any advice/experiences appreciated (or should I take it to a bike shop?)

My gut feeling is that if you're asking these questions, you probably
ought to take it to a bike shop. It is possible to do it at home with a
hammer and screwdrivers, but you risk damage to the frame, forks and
headset if you mess it up. The bearing cups really do need to be
absolutely square to each other.

Screwdrivers?

In news:[email hidden],
Rob Morley <[email hidden]> typed:

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>

Paul Boyd said:

On 26/10/2006 19:27, The Blue Frog said,

Quoted message said:

I'm going to get replacement sealed type for aroung £25 - the size
stated is 1 1/8" - is this the correct size?

Probably. I've just fitted a Cane Creek S3. About £30, and has
replaceable sealed cartridge bearings.

Quoted message said:

Also do I need special tools to remove and replace the old bearings?
any advice/experiences appreciated (or should I take it to a bike
shop?)

My gut feeling is that if you're asking these questions, you probably
ought to take it to a bike shop. It is possible to do it at home
with a hammer and screwdrivers, but you risk damage to the frame,
forks and headset if you mess it up. The bearing cups really do
need to be absolutely square to each other.

Screwdrivers?

Refreshment :-)

--

Geoff

Rob Morley wrote on 26/10/2006 22:13 +0100:

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]> Paul Boyd

Quoted message said:

On 26/10/2006 19:27, The Blue Frog said,

Quoted message said:

I'm going to get replacement sealed type for aroung £25 - the
size stated is 1 1/8" - is this the correct size?

Probably. I've just fitted a Cane Creek S3. About £30, and has
replaceable sealed cartridge bearings.

Quoted message said:

Also do I need special tools to remove and replace the old
bearings? any advice/experiences appreciated (or should I take it
to a bike shop?)

My gut feeling is that if you're asking these questions, you
probably ought to take it to a bike shop. It is possible to do it
at home with a hammer and screwdrivers, but you risk damage to the
frame, forks and headset if you mess it up. The bearing cups
really do need to be absolutely square to each other.

Screwdrivers?

To knock the old cups out with the help of a hammer

--
Tony

"Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using
his intelligence; he is just using his memory."
- Leonardo da Vinci

In article <[email hidden]>

Tony Raven said:

Rob Morley wrote on 26/10/2006 22:13 +0100:

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]> Paul Boyd

Quoted message said:

On 26/10/2006 19:27, The Blue Frog said,

> I'm going to get replacement sealed type for aroung £25 - the
> size stated is 1 1/8" - is this the correct size?
Probably. I've just fitted a Cane Creek S3. About £30, and has
replaceable sealed cartridge bearings.

> Also do I need special tools to remove and replace the old
> bearings? any advice/experiences appreciated (or should I take it
> to a bike shop?)
My gut feeling is that if you're asking these questions, you
probably ought to take it to a bike shop. It is possible to do it
at home with a hammer and screwdrivers, but you risk damage to the
frame, forks and headset if you mess it up. The bearing cups
really do need to be absolutely square to each other.

Screwdrivers?

To knock the old cups out with the help of a hammer

Much better to use a bit of pipe - larger contact area and won't gouge
the inside of the head tube.

Rob Morley wrote on 26/10/2006 23:48 +0100:

Quoted message said:

Much better to use a bit of pipe - larger contact area and won't gouge
the inside of the head tube.

Most people have a big screwdriver and a blunt one will not gouge the
head tube. Most people probably don't have a suitable bit of pipe lying
around but if they do, fine - you can improvise a drift from a range of
materials and tools. Likewise fitting the new cups and crown race.
--
Tony

"Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using
his intelligence; he is just using his memory."
- Leonardo da Vinci

Thanks for advice-sounds like better to take it to a bike shop. Amazing
that an ATB would not have sealed bearings as standard-well perhaps not, the
ball races cost me £1.20!

"Tony Raven" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Rob Morley wrote on 26/10/2006 22:13 +0100:

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]> Paul Boyd

Quoted message said:

On 26/10/2006 19:27, The Blue Frog said,

> I'm going to get replacement sealed type for aroung £25 - the
> size stated is 1 1/8" - is this the correct size?
Probably. I've just fitted a Cane Creek S3. About £30, and has
replaceable sealed cartridge bearings.

> Also do I need special tools to remove and replace the old
> bearings? any advice/experiences appreciated (or should I take it
> to a bike shop?)
My gut feeling is that if you're asking these questions, you
probably ought to take it to a bike shop. It is possible to do it
at home with a hammer and screwdrivers, but you risk damage to the
frame, forks and headset if you mess it up. The bearing cups
really do need to be absolutely square to each other.

Screwdrivers?

To knock the old cups out with the help of a hammer

--
Tony

"Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using
his intelligence; he is just using his memory."
- Leonardo da Vinci

The Blue Frog wrote on 27/10/2006 00:02 +0100:

Quoted message said:

Thanks for advice-sounds like better to take it to a bike shop. Amazing
that an ATB would not have sealed bearings as standard-well perhaps not, the
ball races cost me £1.20!

Don't think sealed bearings are fit and forget. Their longevity depends
on the other seals on the headset to stop the water and muck getting in
to the sealed bearings.

--
Tony

"Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using
his intelligence; he is just using his memory."
- Leonardo da Vinci

Rob Morley said the following on 26/10/2006 22:13:

Quoted message said:

Screwdrivers?

To knock the old cups out with the help of a hammer.

Whoops - Tony already said that!

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

The Blue Frog said the following on 27/10/2006 00:02:

Quoted message said:

Thanks for advice-sounds like better to take it to a bike shop. Amazing
that an ATB would not have sealed bearings as standard-well perhaps not, the
ball races cost me £1.20!

QED :-)

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

In article <[email hidden]>

The Blue Frog said:

Thanks for advice-sounds like better to take it to a bike shop. Amazing
that an ATB would not have sealed bearings as standard-well perhaps not, the
ball races cost me £1.20!

Ball races are the bearing surfaces that the balls run on. What you
have are clipped bearings, which should be avoided where possible as
they reduce the total number of balls and therefore increase the point
loading on the bearing surfaces. A notchy headset with clipped balls
can often be made serviceable by fitting loose balls.

On 26/10/2006 23:54, Tony Raven said,

Quoted message said:

Most people have a big screwdriver and a blunt one will not gouge the
head tube. Most people probably don't have a suitable bit of pipe lying
around but if they do, fine - you can improvise a drift from a range of
materials and tools. Likewise fitting the new cups and crown race.

For fitting the cups, I use a car coil spring compressor with something
appropriate to spread the load. Works a treat!

For a cup extractor, a lump of tube from B&Q is cheaper than the proper
tool. Cut four axial slots, splay the ends and you have one cup
extractor. The crown race is a bit trickier, but an old chisel used as
a wedge to get between the crown and the race to start things moving
works well without damaging the crown.

Any real bike mechanics still with me??????

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Paul Boyd wrote on 27/10/2006 16:07 +0100:

Quoted message said:

Any real bike mechanics still with me??????

Real bike mechanics don't use specialist tools - where's the challenge
otherwise?

--
Tony

"Anyone who conducts an argument by appealing to authority is not using
his intelligence; he is just using his memory."
- Leonardo da Vinci

In article <[email hidden]>, Tony Raven

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Any real bike mechanics still with me??????

Quoted message said:

Real bike mechanics don't use specialist tools - where's the
challenge otherwise?

Get a bigger hammer is usually enough.

--
A T (Sandy) Morton
on the Bicycle Island
In the Global Village
http://www.millport.net