Last night on a club run my RHS STI Shimano 105 gear cable snapped, sent the chain to the small rear cog and I tried to compensate by shifting to a smaller chainring, only to jam the chain in between two rings, meaning a long cold walk/coast home.
Anyhow, I managed to free the chain by loosening the chainrings at home, but rather than send the bike into the LBS for a new cable I'll try and put one in myself. Can anyone point me in the direction of how to fit a gear cable into a RHS STI 105 shifter? Thanks.
Last night on a club run my RHS STI Shimano 105 gear cable snapped, sent the chain to the small rear cog and I tried to compensate by shifting to a smaller chainring, .
If the cable breaks you can usually fix the derailleur in a lower gear by screwing in the high limit screw or wedging something between the screw and the stop. It might even be worth finding a longer screw that fits and carrying it in your puncture outfit.
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only to jam the chain in between two rings, meaning a long cold walk/coast home
Could you not slacken the chainring bolts to free the chain? Or just stamp on it?
Simon Mason said the following on 10/11/2006 14:40:
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Anyhow, I managed to free the chain by loosening the chainrings at home, but rather than send the bike into the LBS for a new cable I'll try and put one in myself. Can anyone point me in the direction of how to fit a gear cable into a RHS STI 105 shifter?
Last night on a club run my RHS STI Shimano 105 gear cable snapped, sent the chain to the small rear cog and I tried to compensate by shifting to a smaller chainring, only to jam the chain in between two rings, meaning a long cold walk/coast home.
Anyhow, I managed to free the chain by loosening the chainrings at home, but rather than send the bike into the LBS for a new cable I'll try and put one in myself. Can anyone point me in the direction of how to fit a gear cable into a RHS STI 105 shifter? Thanks.
Can anyone point me in the direction of how to fit a gear cable into a RHS STI 105 shifter?
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From memory, change the shifter into the gear where there's no tension
on the cable (top gear on the rear mech on RHS?), and roll back the rubber hood at the top. I'm pretty sure the cable nipple is exposed there with a clean cable run though the mechanism - remove the old cable and feed through the new one.
"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Could you not slacken the chainring bolts to free the chain? Or just stamp on it?
No three of us tried, it had jammed fast. In the end I had to slacken the small chainring bolts to get enough gap to pull it out at home, not in the middle of Lincolnshire in the pitch dark. Thanks for the other info folks!
"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Could you not slacken the chainring bolts to free the chain? Or just stamp on it?
No three of us tried, it had jammed fast. In the end I had to slacken the small chainring bolts to get enough gap to pull it out at home, not in the middle of Lincolnshire in the pitch dark. Thanks for the other info folks!
The others should have taken turns at towing you. :-)
"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
In article <[email hidden]>
Simon Mason said:
"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Could you not slacken the chainring bolts to free the chain? Or just stamp on it?
No three of us tried, it had jammed fast. In the end I had to slacken the small chainring bolts to get enough gap to pull it out at home, not in the middle of Lincolnshire in the pitch dark. Thanks for the other info folks!
The others should have taken turns at towing you. :-)
One did - I could actually pedal by moving my right pedal forwards about a foot until the chain length ran out. I'd then pedal back a foot to get the chain length back. Repeat as necessary.
It was a strain on my right thigh muscle which was the only leg muscle I could use in this mode of pedalling. My mate then had more pressing duties as a young woman was apparently going to jump off the Humber Bridge, so he stopped to talk to her and I kept going.
If the cable breaks you can usually fix the derailleur in a lower gear by screwing in the high limit screw or wedging something between the screw and the stop. It might even be worth finding a longer screw that fits and carrying it in your puncture outfit.
More versatile is a 2" length of cable: you remove the last loop of housing and feed the cable straight into the barrel adjuster of the mech, holding the mech in the required gear as you tighten the cable clamp. You can use the barrel adjuster to trim the position of the mech, and most mechs have enough travel in the barrel to shift to a larger sprocket, sometimes two. Saves messing with the limit screws.
More versatile is a 2" length of cable: you remove the last loop of housing and feed the cable straight into the barrel adjuster of the mech, holding the mech in the required gear as you tighten the cable clamp. You can use the barrel adjuster to trim the position of the mech, and most mechs have enough travel in the barrel to shift to a larger sprocket, sometimes two. Saves messing with the limit screws.
How do you hold the end of this 2" length that isn't clamped?
"James Thomson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
"Paul Boyd" <[email hidden]> a écrit:
Quoted message said:
How do you hold the end of this 2" length that isn't clamped?
I don't hold the end of it. Could you clarify your question?
I suspect what he means is how does it not just slip through the barrel adjuster. Presumably the answer is that it's a cable with the nipple still attached.
I suspect what he means is how does it not just slip through the barrel adjuster. Presumably the answer is that it's a cable with the nipple still attached.
If the cable breaks you can usually fix the derailleur in a lower gear by screwing in the high limit screw or wedging something between the screw and the stop. It might even be worth finding a longer screw that fits and carrying it in your puncture outfit.
More versatile is a 2" length of cable: you remove the last loop of housing and feed the cable straight into the barrel adjuster of the mech, holding the mech in the required gear as you tighten the cable clamp. You can use the barrel adjuster to trim the position of the mech, and most mechs have enough travel in the barrel to shift to a larger sprocket, sometimes two. Saves messing with the limit screws.
That's a great use for the end you cut off universal cables, and easier than fiddling with screws.
Clive George said the following on 13/11/2006 21:34:
Quoted message said:
Presumably the answer is that it's a cable with the nipple still attached.
Ah, yes, that would do it. (Mental note - dig out an old gear cable and stick a couple of inches in my tool kit.)
On my MTB though, in the event of broken derailleur or cable, I would just swiftly convert it to single speed. I saw someone walking in the depths of Coed-y-Brenin with a broken derailleur a few months ago. I've carried a multi-tool with chain-breaker ever since. I suppose the neat answer would be to have two Power-Links instead of one!
If the cable breaks you can usually fix the derailleur in a lower gear by screwing in the high limit screw or wedging something between the screw and the stop. It might even be worth finding a longer screw that fits and carrying it in your puncture outfit.
More versatile is a 2" length of cable: you remove the last loop of housing and feed the cable straight into the barrel adjuster of the mech, holding the mech in the required gear as you tighten the cable clamp. You can use the barrel adjuster to trim the position of the mech, and most mechs have enough travel in the barrel to shift to a larger sprocket, sometimes two. Saves messing with the limit screws.
What's the other end of the 2" length of cable attached to? Or do you just leave the ferrule or whatever it's called on one end?
What's the other end of the 2" length of cable attached to? Or do you just leave the ferrule or whatever it's called on one end?
The nipple. Yes, I think that's the idea, and it sounds like a great dodge. You'd probably want to wrap a piece of insulating tape or similar round the cut end to stop it unravelling while carrying it around.
What's the other end of the 2" length of cable attached to? Or do you just leave the ferrule or whatever it's called on one end?
The nipple. Yes, I think that's the idea, and it sounds like a great dodge. You'd probably want to wrap a piece of insulating tape or similar round the cut end to stop it unravelling while carrying it around.
What's the other end of the 2" length of cable attached to? Or do you just leave the ferrule or whatever it's called on one end?
The nipple. Yes, I think that's the idea, and it sounds like a great dodge. You'd probably want to wrap a piece of insulating tape or similar round the cut end to stop it unravelling while carrying it around.
Just tin it with solder.
I did that to protect the end of a cable I'd just installed and for which I didn't have one of those crimp-cap things, using a normal electrical soldering iron, and it worked fine. So I tried it again later on my other bike, which had a fancy Campagnolo cable somehow pre-infused with Teflon, and the solder absolutely refused to stick to it. I ended up just putting a blob of glue on the end.
"Simon Mason" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Last night on a club run my RHS STI Shimano 105 gear cable snapped, sent the chain to the small rear cog and I tried to compensate by shifting to a smaller chainring, only to jam the chain in between two rings, meaning a long cold walk/coast home.
Anyhow, I managed to free the chain by loosening the chainrings at home, but rather than send the bike into the LBS for a new cable I'll try and put one in myself. Can anyone point me in the direction of how to fit a gear cable into a RHS STI 105 shifter? Thanks.
