Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Brake pad types

Started by BJaY · · Last activity · 44 posts · 1,337 views

This thread is locked and is currently read-only.

Thread navigation

Jump through the discussion

Go to the original post, the replies on this page, or the latest preserved contribution.

Thread details

What we know about this thread

Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
27 December 2006
Last activity
2 January 2007
Original author
BJaY
Posts
44
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
1,337
Views / 30 days
0

The navigation and discussion metadata provide context. Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Showing posts 1–20 of 44
Posts remain in their original chronological order.

Text size
  1. Hi,
    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket. I use
    a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than caliper pads to
    get more braking force. The only problem is when it rains. A thin black goo
    apears on the braking surfaces which acts as an amazing lubricant which does
    not clear with breaking and has to be washed off. I was told by somone that
    different pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
    brakes have to work in the wet too right ? Any pointers would be
    appreciated - I've checked sheldons site but can't find anything.

    Cheers,

    Bruce.

  2. Bruce who? said:

    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
    I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
    caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when it
    rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which acts
    as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking and has
    to be washed off. I was told by someone that different pad
    materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB brakes
    have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
    appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by sweep
    error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The pad should
    not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case with
    cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either side
    of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
    grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red
    pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to
    rims. They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model
    will work on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that they
    cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their backplate
    and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    Jobst Brandt

  3. BJaY said:

    Hi,
    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket. I use
    a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than caliper pads to
    get more braking force. The only problem is when it rains. A thin black goo
    apears on the braking surfaces which acts as an amazing lubricant which does
    not clear with breaking and has to be washed off. I was told by somone that
    different pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
    brakes have to work in the wet too right ? Any pointers would be
    appreciated - I've checked sheldons site but can't find anything.

    Cheers,

    Bruce.

    Here's some info:

    sheldonbrown.combrakeshoes.html

  4. Quoted message said:
    Bruce who? said:

    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
    I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
    caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when it
    rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which acts
    as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking and has
    to be washed off. I was told by someone that different pad
    materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB brakes
    have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
    appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by sweep
    error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The pad should
    not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case with
    cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either side
    of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
    grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red
    pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to
    rims.

    "no damage to rims"? really?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

    these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

    Quoted message said:

    They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model
    will work on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that they
    cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their backplate
    and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    Jobst Brandt

  5. jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote in news:94mdnfe9o-
    [email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Bruce who? writes:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either side
    of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
    grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red
    pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to
    rims.

    "no damage to rims"? really?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

    these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

    OK, so no pad is perfect. What's better? See
    http://www.chainreactionbicycles.com/brakeshoes.htm

    --
    Mike DeMicco <[email hidden]>

  6. jim Bourbon writes:

    http://www.jimbeam.com/beam/default.aspx?

    or was it Dewar's

    http://www.dewars.com/

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
    I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
    caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when
    it rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which
    acts as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking
    and has to be washed off. I was told by someone that different
    pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
    brakes have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
    appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by
    sweep error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The
    pad should not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case
    with cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either
    side of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get
    embedded grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop
    salmon-red pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and
    no damage to rims.

    Quoted message said:

    "no damage to rims"? really?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

    Quoted message said:

    these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

    I see not pileup of aluminum shavings or even stone particles in those
    pads. In contrast to other pades, these are clean. That rims wear is
    known, but the routine machining they get from debris-prone pads is
    what Kool Stops avoid.

    If Kool Stop brake pads don't work for you, would you show some brand
    that does? There must be a positive side ot theis somewhere.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will
    work on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that
    they cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their
    backplate and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    Jobst Brandt

  7. Mike DeMicco said:

    jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote in news:94mdnfe9o-
    [email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Bruce who? writes:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either side
    of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
    grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red
    pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to
    rims.


    "no damage to rims"? really?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

    these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

    OK, so no pad is perfect. What's better?

    oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike kool-stops.

    Quoted message said:

    See
    http://www.chainreactionbicycles.com/brakeshoes.htm

  8. jim beam said:

    "no damage to rims"? really?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

    these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

    All the many other brands of pads I've used have picked up bits of grit and
    metal more often than the Kool Stop salmons I use now.

    ~PB

  9. Quoted message said:

    jim Bourbon writes:

    http://www.jimbeam.com/beam/default.aspx?

    or was it Dewar's

    http://www.dewars.com/

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
    > I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
    > caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when
    > it rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which
    > acts as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking
    > and has to be washed off. I was told by someone that different
    > pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
    > brakes have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
    > appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by
    sweep error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The
    pad should not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case
    with cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either
    side of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get
    embedded grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop
    salmon-red pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and
    no damage to rims.

    Quoted message said:

    "no damage to rims"? really?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

    Quoted message said:

    these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

    I see not pileup of aluminum shavings or even stone particles in those
    pads.

    eh? what part of "these kool-stop salmon pads have been cleaned and
    [most of] the grit dug out" confuses you?

    Quoted message said:

    In contrast to other pades, these are clean. That rims wear is
    known, but the routine machining they get from debris-prone pads is
    what Kool Stops avoid.

    If Kool Stop brake pads don't work for you, would you show some brand
    that does? There must be a positive side ot theis somewhere.

    yes, oem campy. work great, little if any grit, even in the wet.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will
    work on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that
    they cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their
    backplate and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    are you on commission?

  10. BJaY said:

    Hi,
    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
    I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
    caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when it
    rains. A thin black goo apears on the braking surfaces which acts as
    an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking and has to be
    washed off. I was told by somone that different pad materials are
    used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB brakes have to work in
    the wet too right ?

    You'll get black or grey goo with any pads when braking a lot in heavy rain.
    It's partly aluminium from your rims.

    Quoted message said:

    Any pointers would be appreciated - I've checked
    sheldons site but can't find anything.

    Type "kool stop" insto the Google Search box on SB's site. And "brake",
    "rim", etc.

    ~PB

  11. jim beam said:
    Quoted message said:

    If Kool Stop brake pads don't work for you, would you show some brand
    that does? There must be a positive side ot theis somewhere.

    yes, oem campy. work great, little if any grit, even in the wet.

    Well, I got /more/ grit with Campag.

    ~PB, not on commision either, and also not someone who agrees (or argues)
    with JB for the sake of it at every opportunity

  12. [email hidden] gratuitously attacked:

    Quoted message said:

    jim Bourbon writes:

    http://www.jimbeam.com/beam/default.aspx?

    or was it Dewar's

    http://www.dewars.com/

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
    > I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
    > caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when
    > it rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which
    > acts as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking
    > and has to be washed off. I was told by someone that different
    > pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
    > brakes have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
    > appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by
    sweep error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The
    pad should not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case
    with cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either
    side of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get
    embedded grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop
    salmon-red pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and
    no damage to rims.

    Quoted message said:

    "no damage to rims"? really?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

    Quoted message said:

    these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

    I see not pileup of aluminum shavings or even stone particles in those
    pads.

    Which part of "cleaned and [most of] the grit dug out" did you not
    understand?

    Quoted message said:

    In contrast to other pades, these are clean. That rims wear is
    known, but the routine machining they get from debris-prone pads is
    what Kool Stops avoid.

    If Kool Stop brake pads don't work for you, would you show some brand
    that does? There must be a positive side ot theis somewhere.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will
    work on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that
    they cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their
    backplate and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    Jobst Brandt

  13. jim beam said:
    Quoted message said:

    jim Bourbon writes:

    http://www.jimbeam.com/beam/default.aspx?

    or was it Dewar's

    http://www.dewars.com/

    Quoted message said:

    >> I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
    >> I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
    >> caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when
    >> it rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which
    >> acts as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking
    >> and has to be washed off. I was told by someone that different
    >> pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
    >> brakes have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
    >> appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

    Quoted message said:

    > Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by
    > sweep error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The
    > pad should not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case
    > with cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

    Quoted message said:

    > Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either
    > side of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get
    > embedded grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop
    > salmon-red pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and
    > no damage to rims.

    Quoted message said:

    "no damage to rims"? really?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

    Quoted message said:

    these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

    I see not pileup of aluminum shavings or even stone particles in those
    pads.

    eh? what part of "these kool-stop salmon pads have been cleaned and
    [most of] the grit dug out" confuses you?

    Quoted message said:

    In contrast to other pades, these are clean. That rims wear is
    known, but the routine machining they get from debris-prone pads is
    what Kool Stops avoid.

    If Kool Stop brake pads don't work for you, would you show some brand
    that does? There must be a positive side ot theis somewhere.

    yes, oem campy. work great, little if any grit, even in the wet.

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    > They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will
    > work on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    Quoted message said:

    > at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that
    > they cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their
    > backplate and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    are you on commission?

    Sometimes, ya gotta wonder; the shilling, intended or not, can get a
    bit thick on this NG.

  14. jobst.brandt said:
    Bruce who? said:

    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket. I
    use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than caliper
    pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when it rains. A
    thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which acts as an amazing
    lubricant which does not clear with breaking and has to be washed off.
    I was told by someone that different pad materials are used for MTB
    brakes and road brakes but MTB brakes have to work in the wet too
    right? Any pointers would be appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site
    but can't find anything.

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by sweep
    error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The pad should
    not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case with cantilevers
    if you don't keep after them.

    With pad holders and thin pad inserts, one can just change the pads
    without ever having to do brake adjustments (which can be a pain).

    Quoted message said:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either side
    of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
    grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red pads
    have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to rims.

    I'll put in another vote for these. Nothing else comes close. The next
    best thing are Kool-Stop's own black pads, which aren't bad but the salmon
    are definitely better. The only disadvantages are availability, and that
    they do wear a bit quicker than others. Better pad wear than rim wear
    though, and the salmon pads are a lot easier on rims. They're also a lot
    cleaner.

    What I don't understand is why I haven't seen them in bike shops since a
    decade ago, when the Mathauser version with the finned aluminum holder was
    a popular MTB dress-up accessory. This is one reason so many of us buy
    mail order (from a smarter, better LBS in Massachusetts).

    Quoted message said:

    They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will work
    on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that they
    cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their backplate and
    anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    I just went through my last set of these in the smooth post version, which
    unfortunately is no longer available.

    I've never had a pad knocked out of a pad holder. All the pad holders
    I've seen have set screws to prevent this anyway.

    Matt O.

  15. Matt O'Toole said:
    jobst.brandt said:
    Bruce who? said:

    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket. I
    use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than caliper
    pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when it rains. A
    thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which acts as an amazing
    lubricant which does not clear with breaking and has to be washed off.
    I was told by someone that different pad materials are used for MTB
    brakes and road brakes but MTB brakes have to work in the wet too
    right? Any pointers would be appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site
    but can't find anything.

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by sweep
    error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The pad should
    not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case with cantilevers
    if you don't keep after them.

    With pad holders and thin pad inserts, one can just change the pads
    without ever having to do brake adjustments (which can be a pain).

    Well you never changed Campy pads then ;-) Fortunately the adjustment is
    very easy.

    Lou
    --
    Posted by news://news.nb.nu

  16. Matt O'Toole said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the
    supermarket. I use a road bike but have fitted the larger
    cantilever pads than caliper pads to get more braking force. The
    only problem is when it rains. A thin black goo spear's on the
    braking surfaces which acts as an amazing lubricant which does not
    clear with breaking and has to be washed off. I was told by
    someone that different pad materials are used for MTB brakes and
    road brakes but MTB brakes have to work in the wet too right? Any
    pointers would be appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but
    can't find anything.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by
    sweep error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The
    pad should not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case
    with cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

    Quoted message said:

    With pad holders and thin pad inserts, one can just change the pads
    without ever having to do brake adjustments (which can be a pain).

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either
    side of useful from being too soft and wear prone to ones that get
    embedded grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop
    salmon-red pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and
    no damage to rims.

    Quoted message said:

    I'll put in another vote for these. Nothing else comes close. The
    next best thing are Kool-Stop's own black pads, which aren't bad but
    the salmon are definitely better. The only disadvantages are
    availability, and that they do wear a bit quicker than others.
    Better pad wear than rim wear though, and the salmon pads are a lot
    easier on rims. They're also a lot cleaner.

    Quoted message said:

    What I don't understand is why I haven't seen them in bike shops
    since a decade ago, when the Mathauser version with the finned
    aluminum holder was a popular MTB dress-up accessory. This is one
    reason so many of us buy mail order (from a smarter, better LBS in
    Massachusetts).

    Kool Stop marketing has been poor for a long time. Many shops are
    unaware of the products and there seems to be no push to change that.
    On top of that, they advertised the salmon red for steel rims and had
    other off the wall suggestions.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will
    work on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that
    they cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their
    backplate and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sell you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    Quoted message said:

    I just went through my last set of these in the smooth post version,
    which unfortunately is no longer available.

    Quoted message said:

    I've never had a pad knocked out of a pad holder. All the pad
    holders I've seen have set screws to prevent this anyway.

    Before Campagnolo put the guide triangles on their brake pad holders,
    riders often knocked a brake pad out when dropping the bicycle onto a
    wheel. The pads could be knocked out sideways unnoticed. Those
    extensions did not come from the original design and are more
    important than most people know.

    Jobst Brandt

  17. Quoted message said:
    Matt O'Toole said:
    Quoted message said:

    > I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the
    > supermarket. I use a road bike but have fitted the larger
    > cantilever pads than caliper pads to get more braking force. The
    > only problem is when it rains. A thin black goo spear's on the
    > braking surfaces which acts as an amazing lubricant which does not
    > clear with breaking and has to be washed off. I was told by
    > someone that different pad materials are used for MTB brakes and
    > road brakes but MTB brakes have to work in the wet too right? Any
    > pointers would be appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but
    > can't find anything.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by
    sweep error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The
    pad should not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case
    with cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

    Quoted message said:

    With pad holders and thin pad inserts, one can just change the pads
    without ever having to do brake adjustments (which can be a pain).

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either
    side of useful from being too soft and wear prone to ones that get
    embedded grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop
    salmon-red pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and
    no damage to rims.

    Quoted message said:

    I'll put in another vote for these. Nothing else comes close. The
    next best thing are Kool-Stop's own black pads, which aren't bad but
    the salmon are definitely better. The only disadvantages are
    availability, and that they do wear a bit quicker than others.
    Better pad wear than rim wear though, and the salmon pads are a lot
    easier on rims. They're also a lot cleaner.

    Quoted message said:

    What I don't understand is why I haven't seen them in bike shops
    since a decade ago, when the Mathauser version with the finned
    aluminum holder was a popular MTB dress-up accessory. This is one
    reason so many of us buy mail order (from a smarter, better LBS in
    Massachusetts).

    Kool Stop marketing has been poor for a long time. Many shops are
    unaware of the products and there seems to be no push to change that.
    On top of that, they advertised the salmon red for steel rims and had
    other off the wall suggestions.

    So, Kool Stop does not know the apps for their own product? Not exactly
    confidence inspiring!

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will
    work on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that
    they cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their
    backplate and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sell you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    Quoted message said:

    I just went through my last set of these in the smooth post version,
    which unfortunately is no longer available.

    Quoted message said:

    I've never had a pad knocked out of a pad holder. All the pad
    holders I've seen have set screws to prevent this anyway.

    Before Campagnolo put the guide triangles on their brake pad holders,
    riders often knocked a brake pad out when dropping the bicycle onto a
    wheel. The pads could be knocked out sideways unnoticed. Those
    extensions did not come from the original design and are more
    important than most people know.

    Jobst Brandt

  18. Quoted message said:

    Kool Stop marketing has been poor for a long time. Many shops are
    unaware of the products and there seems to be no push to change that.
    On top of that, they advertised the salmon red for steel rims and had
    other off the wall suggestions.

    KoolStop's an interesting company. They make some great products (best brake
    shoes, in my opinion), but some things they do leave you scratching your
    head. Like the thicker leading edge on the pad, supposedly designed to hit
    the rim first and scrape away stuff before it gets to the rest of the pad. I
    always shave that part of the pad down before I install them on my own bike.
    But just try to have a conversation with them about that "scraper" material.
    You get the idea that someone came up with that at the beginning of time,
    and all ideas formed at the beginning of time are to be considered beyond
    question.

    Nor are they willing to sell me large qtys in bulk (we go through quite a
    few of them on new bikes on the floor, when the bikes are shipped with
    plastic-like pads that make horrid noises when you apply the brakes). Seems
    dumb to create all that packaging when it's not needed. Just ship me a bag
    of 500 of 'em or whatever, and save the cardboard & plastic. There's enough
    of that in our landfills already!

    But having said all that, again, they're consistently the best pads on the
    market. "Consistent" being the key. Shimano sometimes has great pads, and
    sometimes pads that eat rims alive. I've noticed no variation in KoolStops.
    They always work well.

    --Mike Jacoubowsky
    Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReaction.com
    Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

    <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Matt O'Toole said:
    Quoted message said:

    > I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the
    > supermarket. I use a road bike but have fitted the larger
    > cantilever pads than caliper pads to get more braking force. The
    > only problem is when it rains. A thin black goo spear's on the
    > braking surfaces which acts as an amazing lubricant which does not
    > clear with breaking and has to be washed off. I was told by
    > someone that different pad materials are used for MTB brakes and
    > road brakes but MTB brakes have to work in the wet too right? Any
    > pointers would be appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but
    > can't find anything.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by
    sweep error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The
    pad should not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case
    with cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

    Quoted message said:

    With pad holders and thin pad inserts, one can just change the pads
    without ever having to do brake adjustments (which can be a pain).

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either
    side of useful from being too soft and wear prone to ones that get
    embedded grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop
    salmon-red pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and
    no damage to rims.

    Quoted message said:

    I'll put in another vote for these. Nothing else comes close. The
    next best thing are Kool-Stop's own black pads, which aren't bad but
    the salmon are definitely better. The only disadvantages are
    availability, and that they do wear a bit quicker than others.
    Better pad wear than rim wear though, and the salmon pads are a lot
    easier on rims. They're also a lot cleaner.

    Quoted message said:

    What I don't understand is why I haven't seen them in bike shops
    since a decade ago, when the Mathauser version with the finned
    aluminum holder was a popular MTB dress-up accessory. This is one
    reason so many of us buy mail order (from a smarter, better LBS in
    Massachusetts).

    Kool Stop marketing has been poor for a long time. Many shops are
    unaware of the products and there seems to be no push to change that.
    On top of that, they advertised the salmon red for steel rims and had
    other off the wall suggestions.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will
    work on your brakes.

    http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that
    they cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their
    backplate and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sell you some.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

    Quoted message said:

    I just went through my last set of these in the smooth post version,
    which unfortunately is no longer available.

    Quoted message said:

    I've never had a pad knocked out of a pad holder. All the pad
    holders I've seen have set screws to prevent this anyway.

    Before Campagnolo put the guide triangles on their brake pad holders,
    riders often knocked a brake pad out when dropping the bicycle onto a
    wheel. The pads could be knocked out sideways unnoticed. Those
    extensions did not come from the original design and are more
    important than most people know.

    Jobst Brandt

  19. Mike DeMicco said:

    OK, so no pad is perfect. What's better? See
    http://www.chainreactionbicycles.com/brakeshoes.htm

    Interesting -- thanks!
    --
    JT
    ****************************
    Remove "remove" to reply
    Visit http://www.jt10000.com
    ****************************

  20. On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 18:17:06 GMT, "BJaY" <[email hidden]> may

    have said:

    Hi,
    I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.

    Interesting supermarket you have there. Ours comes no closer to
    supplying cycling gear than having a meager selection of power bars
    and sports drinks. (Auchan used to have some bike stuff, but it was
    [censored]...and they finally gave up and closed their stores here.)

    Quoted message said:

    I use
    a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than caliper pads to
    get more braking force.

    Had a bit of extra stud sticking out, I'd expect.

    Quoted message said:

    The only problem is when it rains. A thin black goo
    apears on the braking surfaces which acts as an amazing lubricant which does
    not clear with breaking and has to be washed off. I was told by somone that
    different pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
    brakes have to work in the wet too right ? Any pointers would be
    appreciated - I've checked sheldons site but can't find anything.

    Many different pad materials are on the market. Some are used for
    both road and mtb/atb brakes. Their suitability for a given specific
    application is not always predictable, though some have earned
    widespread acceptance in multiple types of usage. I suspect that the
    pads you bought are not among them.

    I think you're going to need to shop where you'll get brake pads that
    are being sold by people who ride bikes.

    --
    My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
    Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Active in the last 60 minutes

Active in this thread

0 users · 0 guests ·0 bots ·0 total

No signed-in users are active right now.

No known search crawlers active right now.