Can I get some advice on upgrading ?

ieandro said:

Hello,

I have a '06 TREK 1000 that needs a BB replaced because of some wierd crunching noise coming from within. Due to serving overseas in S. Korea, square taper BB's are hard to get a hold of because they say it's old tech. I can always mail order, but that takes too long. Either way winter has already made me stop riding.

I want to upgrade in the meantime.

So i'm thinking, should I upgrade to the newer Shimano 105 groupset ? What about an older model year Ultegra or Dura-Ace ? Anyone have a mix of the three ?

Before anyone tells me i'm stupid for upgrading a cheap bike, I just want to say I love my TREK 1000. Please don't suggest getting a new bike with the components I want or anything like that.

105 is good & good value.

ieandro said:

Hello,

I have a '06 TREK 1000 that needs a BB replaced because of some wierd crunching noise coming from within. Due to serving overseas in S. Korea, square taper BB's are hard to get a hold of because they say it's old tech. I can always mail order, but that takes too long. Either way winter has already made me stop riding.

I want to upgrade in the meantime.

So i'm thinking, should I upgrade to the newer Shimano 105 groupset ? What about an older model year Ultegra or Dura-Ace ? Anyone have a mix of the three ?

Before anyone tells me i'm stupid for upgrading a cheap bike, I just want to say I love my TREK 1000. Please don't suggest getting a new bike with the components I want or anything like that.

I agree that 105 components are a great value ... 9-speed "stuff" was better than 8-speed "stuff" ... 10-speed is supposed to be better than 9-speed "stuff" ...

BUT, before you spend money on upgrading, you can probably resolve the "weird crunching noise" by doing some necessary maintenance ...

CLEAN your bike.

CLEAN the moving parts, in particular -- the chain, the cogs, the chainrings!

AFTER you have fastidiously cleaned everything you can SEE, then take some household (e.g. 3-in-1) oil and relube your bottom bracket ... there are seals, if you have cleaned ALL the grit away from the visible surfaces, the oil will penerate beyond the "seals" ...

LEARN how to "maintain" the current components on your bike because as good-or-great as the new stuff may be, it won't last any longer if you fail to perform routine maintenance ...

Give serious thought to CLEANING your bike AFTER each ride ... the components should last thousands upon thousands of miles AND the fact that you are experiencing SOME problems after ONE season suggests neglect on your part.

alfeng said:

I agree that 105 components are a great value ... 9-speed "stuff" was better than 8-speed "stuff" ... 10-speed is supposed to be better than 9-speed "stuff" ...

BUT, before you spend money on upgrading, you can probably resolve the "weird crunching noise" by doing some necessary maintenance ...

CLEAN your bike.

CLEAN the moving parts, in particular -- the chain, the cogs, the chainrings!

AFTER you have fastidiously cleaned everything you can SEE, then take some household (e.g. 3-in-1) oil and relube your bottom bracket ... there are seals, if you have cleaned ALL the grit away from the visible surfaces, the oil will penerate beyond the "seals" ...

LEARN how to "maintain" the current components on your bike because as good-or-great as the new stuff may be, it won't last any longer if you fail to perform routine maintenance ...

Give serious thought to CLEANING your bike AFTER each ride ... the components should last thousands upon thousands of miles AND the fact that you are experiencing SOME problems after ONE season suggests neglect on your part.

I baby this bike more than the GF. I go as far having it in the same room when I sleep. I would like to say my standards of "maintenance" is above the standard.
To be more specific on the "weird crunching noise", it all happened after one seriously wet ride. I removed, cleaned and inspected the BB for anything out of the ordinary, but being a square taper SEALED cartridge unit, the condition of the bearings or any other internal part was unknown. I can tell you it still makes a crunching noise.

Anyway, like I said before I want to upgrade.

Has anyone had experience with the FSA ISIS cranksets ?

ieandro said:

Has anyone had experience with the FSA ISIS cranksets ?

Yes, I have an FSA SLK w/ISIS. Before that, I had the Gossamer ally set.
I regret switching, the Gossamer was excellent, andthe chainring spider was stiffer than the SLK. For BB, I've used FSA platinum Ti, and now token ceramic bearing Ti- both excellent and light.

ieandro said:

I baby this bike more than the GF. I go as far having it in the same room when I sleep. I would like to say my standards of "maintenance" is above the standard.
To be more specific on the "weird crunching noise", it all happened after one seriously wet ride. I removed, cleaned and inspected the BB for anything out of the ordinary, but being a square taper SEALED cartridge unit, the condition of the bearings or any other internal part was unknown. I can tell you it still makes a crunching noise.

Anyway, like I said before I want to upgrade.

Has anyone had experience with the FSA ISIS cranksets ?

I've rejuventated both XTR Octalink & square taper cartridge bottom brackets which lost-that-lovin'-feelin' by externally cleaning AND using household oil to essentially "flush" the bearings ...

I think the FSA Gossamer cranks are a great value, too. The spider is a copy of the Dura Ace spider ... the arms are more robust than Campagnolo's. I have the ISIS bottom bracket on one bike, but cannot say it is better-or-worse than any other.

Something to consider.....
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=D1092
Probikekit has 105 groupset for $683.38 [Aus $] 170, 172.5 or 175 crank length. 12-27 cassette only
Below is an offer to reduce the above amount.
"Get a further 5% discount on all items on our website. Simply type the code X221283 into the promotion code box at the bottom of the checkout page. This discount will expire midnight GMT 02.01.07. This discount cannot be applied retrospectively!"
Edit - You have to add postage 🙂

Albert 50 said:

Something to consider.....
probikekit.comdisplay.phpOpen ↗
Probikekit has 105 groupset for $683.38 [Aus $] 170, 172.5 or 175 crank length. 12-27 cassette only
Below is an offer to reduce the above amount.
"Get a further 5% discount on all items on our website. Simply type the code X221283 into the promotion code box at the bottom of the checkout page. This discount will expire midnight GMT 02.01.07. This discount cannot be applied retrospectively!"
Edit - You have to add postage 🙂

Now, if you are serious about a full group, you may want to ALSO CONSIDER both the Campagnolo Veloce & Mirage groups which Probikekit also has on sale ...

At this point, the Veloce ($515.86US) is possibly worth the slight premium over the Mirage group ... but, at $400.76US, the Mirage is a great bargain.

BTW. I'm quoting the US prices because I presume that is an easier reference point as you are (presumably) on a USAF base ... the 105 group is $539.75US.

There are so-called conversion cassettes which allow you to use Campagnolo drivetrains with Shimano/-compatible wheelsets ...

I wouldn't recommend upgrading your gruppo on a Trek1000. If you can find a used gruppo for very little, then consider it, but otherwise I'd advise against it.

If you're planning on spending ~$600 on a new gruppo, save that money towards a better bike and keep the 1000 as your backup. For ~$1000 you can get yourself a pretty nice bike with a 105/ultegra mix, with likely better wheels than what you're riding now.

On a separate note, I use the FSA SL-K crankset. The crankset is decent, although I think I'd prefer an ultegra or DA crank due to increased stiffness - the FSA crankarms flex a little more than I'd like. Just FYI, the sl-k is compatible with ISIS BBs.

badkarma said:

I wouldn't recommend upgrading your gruppo on a Trek1000. If you can find a used gruppo for very little, then consider it, but otherwise I'd advise against it.

If you're planning on spending ~$600 on a new gruppo, save that money towards a better bike and keep the 1000 as your backup. For ~$1000 you can get yourself a pretty nice bike with a 105/ultegra mix, with likely better wheels than what you're riding now.

On a separate note, I use the FSA SL-K crankset. The crankset is decent, although I think I'd prefer an ultegra or DA crank due to increased stiffness - the FSA crankarms flex a little more than I'd like. Just FYI, the sl-k is compatible with ISIS BBs.

Yeah, i'm betting on some used derailleurs, but will most likely get the crank / bb set new. I've seen some good reviews on the FSA crank so will run with that.

ieandro said:

Hello,

I have a '06 TREK 1000 that needs a BB replaced because of some wierd crunching noise coming from within. Due to serving overseas in S. Korea, square taper BB's are hard to get a hold of because they say it's old tech. I can always mail order, but that takes too long. Either way winter has already made me stop riding.

I want to upgrade in the meantime.

So i'm thinking, should I upgrade to the newer Shimano 105 groupset ? What about an older model year Ultegra or Dura-Ace ? Anyone have a mix of the three ?

Before anyone tells me i'm stupid for upgrading a cheap bike, I just want to say I love my TREK 1000. Please don't suggest getting a new bike with the components I want or anything like that.

You can probably find the replacement bottom bracket you need at the site below, whether new or old technology:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html

OldGoat said:

You can probably find the replacement bottom bracket you need at the site below, whether new or old technology:

sheldonbrown.combottombrackets.htmlOpen ↗

While you probably can't get a square taper bottom bracket at your PX, it's difficult to believe that there isn't a bike shop somewhere "in town" that doesn't carry them.

What types of bikes do the "locals" ride?

Next time you are on R&R (pre-plan your itinerary), stop at a Local Bike Shop (stop in as many as possible, if time-and-distance makes it feasible, to get a sense of with whom you would like to spend your money) ... contact them before you get there ... heck, they may be willing to mail/ship the BB to you ...

Of course, you can take the opportunity of stopping into a shop to look at how the different groups look on different bikes AND there may be other "small" things you may want to get.

BTW. The prices at Harris are the same as the walk-in prices (or, higher!?!) at most Local Bike Shops AND certainly more than the prices you would pay via OTHER mail order outlets.