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Aluminium frames

Started by Brendo · · Last activity · 6 posts · 700 views

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Australia and New Zealand
Published
15 February 2007
Last activity
16 February 2007
Original author
Brendo
Posts
6
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Public discussion
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700
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  1. Further to my thinking regarding money spent on bikes, are aluminium
    frame road bikes pretty much of a muchness? At the lower end of the
    scale (sub$2500), I don't imagine that many brands would design a
    frame in house, as there would be little to no margin in the sale
    after gruppo's and accessories are taken into account. If considering
    upgrading a frame, would you need to look at (ballpark) $2k for the
    frame and fork before you found a 'better' frame that wasn't just
    bought blank and had stickers slapped on it?

    Brendo

  2. Brendo said:

    Further to my thinking regarding money spent on bikes, are aluminium
    frame road bikes pretty much of a muchness?

    No. The really cheap ones can be (and some of the expensive ones
    too ...), there's a book that comes out of Taiwan or somewhere (I
    haven't seen it; but know of its existence) that allows a
    'manufacturer' to pick & choose various shapes etc and 'build' bikes
    by the numbers from the book, but not all 'manufacturers' use it. The
    bigger name brands that I know of don't. Trek & Cannondale I know
    don't, they have, at least, their own designers, and all the
    Cannondales were, and I think still are, but am not sure about the new
    Synapse's, made in the US *except* the CF synapses! Trek's higher end
    Al Alloy frames are US made too but the 1x00 series frames are
    Taiwanese made. I *think* that Inexa use 'the book', but am not sure,
    I don't know enough about other brands to say. 'made in Taiwan'
    doesn't necessarily mean thrown together out of the book, although
    there's a distinct chance that it is.

    Quoted message said:

    At the lower end of the
    scale (sub$2500), I don't imagine that many brands would design a
    frame in house, as there would be little to no margin in the sale
    after gruppo's and accessories are taken into account. If considering
    upgrading a frame, would you need to look at (ballpark) $2k for the
    frame and fork before you found a 'better' frame that wasn't just
    bought blank and had stickers slapped on it?

    No. There are good frames at the sub $2k range, and there are
    dungers. Go testriding, you'll be able to tell. I have a sub $2k Al
    Alloy roady at home that's been very good to me.

  3. Bleve said:


    No. There are good frames at the sub $2k range, and there are
    dungers. Go testriding, you'll be able to tell. I have a sub $2k Al
    Alloy roady at home that's been very good to me.


    me too...R2 is an all alloy Columbus Zonal "custom" was heaps under $2k, (under $1.4K for that matter)... super frame, its big 'cos I am, but when built up came in under 8.5kilos and its angles, and dimensions are THE fit... and that's the buzz.

  4. In article <[email hidden]>,

    Bleve said:
    Brendo said:

    Further to my thinking regarding money spent on bikes, are aluminium
    frame road bikes pretty much of a muchness?

    No. The really cheap ones can be (and some of the expensive ones
    too ...), there's a book that comes out of Taiwan or somewhere (I
    haven't seen it; but know of its existence) that allows a
    'manufacturer' to pick & choose various shapes etc and 'build' bikes
    by the numbers from the book, but not all 'manufacturers' use it. The
    bigger name brands that I know of don't. Trek & Cannondale I know
    don't, they have, at least, their own designers, and all the
    Cannondales were, and I think still are, but am not sure about the new
    Synapse's, made in the US *except* the CF synapses! Trek's higher end
    Al Alloy frames are US made too but the 1x00 series frames are
    Taiwanese made. I *think* that Inexa use 'the book', but am not sure,
    I don't know enough about other brands to say. 'made in Taiwan'
    doesn't necessarily mean thrown together out of the book, although
    there's a distinct chance that it is.

    Quoted message said:

    At the lower end of the
    scale (sub$2500), I don't imagine that many brands would design a
    frame in house, as there would be little to no margin in the sale
    after gruppo's and accessories are taken into account. If considering
    upgrading a frame, would you need to look at (ballpark) $2k for the
    frame and fork before you found a 'better' frame that wasn't just
    bought blank and had stickers slapped on it?

    No. There are good frames at the sub $2k range, and there are
    dungers. Go testriding, you'll be able to tell. I have a sub $2k Al
    Alloy roady at home that's been very good to me.

    I too have been wondering about aluminium alloy frames because I am just
    about to pension off a couple of old 7-speed MTBs and buy another
    hardtail.

    In another post about the weight of duallies there was a URL to a Scott
    bike that has a 7005 frame.

    I was in the CBD the other day and saw GT and Norco bikes with 6061
    frames.

    Any comment on either alloy?

    regards,
    Darryl

  5. Darryl C said:

    I too have been wondering about aluminium alloy frames because I am just
    about to pension off a couple of old 7-speed MTBs and buy another
    hardtail.

    In another post about the weight of duallies there was a URL to a Scott
    bike that has a 7005 frame.

    I was in the CBD the other day and saw GT and Norco bikes with 6061
    frames.

    Any comment on either alloy?

    regards,
    Darryl

    All I can say is get the fluorescent green ones... they go faster :-)

    --
    Bean

    "I've got a bike
    You can ride it if you like
    It's got a basket
    A bell that rings
    And things to make it look good
    I'd give it to you if I could
    But I borrowed it" Pink Floyd

    Remove "yourfinger" before replying

  6. Darryl C said:

    Any comment on either alloy?

    I'd have to double check to be sure, but it's differences in the non-Al
    parts of the alloy, and it changes the behaviour of the metal a reasonable
    amount.

    Off the top of my head 6061 is a touch weaker, but easier to work. This
    means you get a slightly heavier bike, but a fair bit cheaper. 7005 needs
    heat treating after welding, but is a bit lighter. Then you get into the
    funky custom alloys, like Easton.

    This is based on some very fuzzy memories, but should give you some
    pointers for Googlage.

    --
    Dave Hughes | [email hidden]
    "Until we understand quantum gravity, we're not going to be
    running Linux on a black hole" - Seth Lloyd

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