AAARRGGHH!! (tyre / tire rotation)

ChrisG said:

OK, I know I was supposed to rotate my tyre/cranks -before- the tyre was
almost worn out,

I rotate my tire every time I ride.*

* - has this joke been done before?

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uni57

20 GOTO 10

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uni57 said:

I rotate my tire every time I ride.*

* - has this joke been done before?

🙂 You know, as I typed my original message, I thought someone would
reply thus. I almost added "hey - no rotation jokes". I can not
respond with certainty, but I think this joke has probably been done
before. But hey, I still smiled.

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ChrisG said:

OK, I know I was supposed to rotate my tyre/cranks -before- the tyre was
almost worn out, but I didn't. So now, even at medium speeds, I get
this really annoying bouncing up and down thing going. Oh well, I
needed a new tyre anyway. Duro Leopard 24x3" at 27 psi for the
curious. I'll certainly be rotating my new tyre.

not sure if you know but don't rotate your cranks... if they are press
fit it stops working as well

--
torkerdx

gordito8me said:

it's like running across the highway at rush hour. Dangerous, stupid,
but not really that fun.

Unicaw89 said:

Koxx rapes Torker hard!

unifreak7 said:

Where they should be - Holding your unicycle, ready to quit kissing and
get out and practice.

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torkerdx said:

not sure if you know but don't rotate your cranks... if they are press
fit it stops working as well

Er.. Pardon? I do not understand what you mean. What are "press fit"
cranks? FYI, the cranks in question are cheap aluminium prowheel
cranks (square taper) on a UDC hub.

Cheerz.

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I really need to do that I have one bald spot on mine It doesnt effect
anything yet though.

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ChrisG said:

Er.. Pardon? I do not understand what you mean. What are "press fit"
cranks? FYI, the cranks in question are cheap aluminium prowheel
cranks (square taper) on a UDC hub.

Cheerz.

square taper (including what you have) and most splined cranks are
press fit. basically the axel and cranks are tapered. when you
tighten them you actually pull them together hence the "press fit"
the other cranks are pinch bolt and just slide right on and off. one
bolt pulls the crank (where it attatches to the crank) tight to the
axel and one bolt pulls the crank into the center of the wheel.

--
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gordito8me said:

it's like running across the highway at rush hour. Dangerous, stupid,
but not really that fun.

Unicaw89 said:

Koxx rapes Torker hard!

unifreak7 said:

Where they should be - Holding your unicycle, ready to quit kissing and
get out and practice.

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torkerdx said:

square taper (including what you have) and most splined cranks are press
fit. basically the axel and cranks are tapered. when you tighten them
you actually pull them together hence the "press fit"
the other cranks are pinch bolt and just slide right on and off. one
bolt pulls the crank (where it attatches to the crank) tight to the
axel and one bolt pulls the crank into the center of the wheel.

Is this -really -a problem? With square taper (which needs a bit more
torque than ISIS - square has more taper), the crank material is
reasonably soft, and I tighten the bolts as hard as I can (a largeish
percentage of my body weight) with a 6 inch lever. This equates to
about 60 foot pounds. Plenty enough to deform the soft crank material.
I think the bolts fail at around 100 foot pounds. I might start using
medium loctite, as the bolts need occasional tightening, even after
weeks of riding, and several tune ups.

Thoughts?

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ChrisG said:

the crank material is reasonably soft, and I tighten the bolts as hard
as I can (a largeish percentage of my body weight) with a 6 inch lever.
This equates to about 60 foot pounds. *Plenty enough to deform the
soft crank material.*

Well exactly, you want to avoid removing and refitting square taper
cranks as much as possible because you can only deform the taper so
much before they won't fit tightly anymore especially for aluminium
cranks). Non-taper splines move around a little causing spline wear
(for instance new profiles are very tough to get off the axle
initially, but after riding on them alot will slide off easily) so it's
worth rotating them to even the wear out, but for square tapers
rotating will do more damage than good. Just spin the tyre on the rim
if your riding puts a flat spot on it.

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Dave

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kington99 said:

Well exactly, you want to avoid removing and refitting square taper
cranks as much as possible because you can only deform the taper so
much before they won't fit tightly anymore especially for aluminium
cranks). Non-taper splines move around a little causing spline wear
(for instance new profiles are very tough to get off the axle
initially, but after riding on them alot will slide off easily) so it's
worth rotating them to even the wear out, but for square tapers
rotating will do more damage than good. Just spin the tyre on the rim
if your riding puts a flat spot on it.

Ok, this does make sense I see. But, does this apply to ISIS though?
With less taper angle and splines, and somewhat lower torque on the
crank bolt, doesn't that mean you can pull the cranks on and off more
times without damaging them too much?

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you can yes, but you dont wanna be taking them off once a day just for
th esaek of it.

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iridemymuni said:

you can yes, but you dont wanna be taking them off once a day just for
th esaek of it.

What are you doing up this late? Tomorrows a school day!!

Obligitory thread bit: Hmmm. Can't afford a new tyre for a while, so I
am thinking of attacking my unevenly worn tyre with a stanley knife to
even it up....

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im about to go to bed. been busy talking, and not doing study.

im tired.

oh well school is boring whether im awake or asleep through it.

night.

--
iridemymuni

maker of the happy birthday threads

ive got:

John Childs, Klaas Bill, Kris Holm, Samia, Harper, Bryan Stevens,
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ChrisG said:

Ok, this does make sense I see. But, does this apply to ISIS though?
With less taper angle and splines, and somewhat lower torque on the
crank bolt, doesn't that mean you can pull the cranks on and off more
times without damaging them too much?

I would worry much less about ISIS, you wouldn't expect splined cranks
to deform noticeably when they're tightened up even if they're on a
taper like ISIS or the KH/Onza splines. While I avoid removing the
square taper cranks on my 36" unless absaloutely necessary I'm
perfectly happy to rotate my KH/Onza cranks on my muni and trials uni.
Incidentally as removing sqaure taper cranks requires large forces in
the tool you're likely to damage the threads in the crank and the end
of the hub that the puller tool presses on. I've had to have my coker
hub threads re-tapped due to damage from a crank puller tool before,
and seen the thread in a crank ripped clean out. By comparison splines
seem to take less force (except profiles), and some have clever
integrated self-pulling mechanisms that make it a doddle.

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Dave

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kington99 said:

I would worry much less about ISIS, you wouldn't expect splined cranks
to deform noticeably when they're tightened up even if they're on a
taper like ISIS or the KH/Onza splines. While I avoid removing the
square taper cranks on my 36" unless absaloutely necessary I'm
perfectly happy to rotate my KH/Onza cranks on my muni and trials uni.
Incidentally as removing sqaure taper cranks requires large forces in
the tool you're likely to damage the threads in the crank and the end
of the hub that the puller tool presses on. I've had to have my coker
hub threads re-tapped due to damage from a crank puller tool before,
and seen the thread in a crank ripped clean out. By comparison splines
seem to take less force (except profiles), and some have clever
integrated self-pulling mechanisms that make it a doddle.

Sigh. You are right on the money with the sqaure taper removal damage
syndrome. I found that the crank remover deformed the top of the hub
thread slightly. This made it extremely difficult to re-insert the
crank bolts without cross threading. I had to carefully dress the hub
thread with a file to get them to go in again. At the time, I was
wishing I had the right tap for the hub. I would have used it to clear
out the top of the thread.

Thanks to all for the good advice 🙂

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hahaha! I just attacked my tyre with a utility knife, sawing of the
knobs where they were too high, and the crazy bouncing is largely
sorted out! Ok, I still need a new tyre, but it'll get me by for few
weeks. :-)

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torkerdx said:

square taper (including what you have) and most splined cranks are press
fit. basically the axel and cranks are tapered. when you tighten them
you actually pull them together hence the "press fit"
the other cranks are pinch bolt and just slide right on and off. one
bolt pulls the crank (where it attatches to the crank) tight to the
axel and one bolt pulls the crank into the center of the wheel.

uhh
lol
pinch bolts wear out too!!
my axle has about a 1/32 ridge all the way around where the cranks hit
the axle'

but that might be from ahem.... i don't know what that could possibly
be from... ahemm

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