I saw the new XTR stuff on a Santa Cruz bike yesterday. It was hanging on the back of a Land Rover at a car show of all places. I don't know what it costs but it sure looked trick and seemed precise for the limited amount of fiddling with it I got to do. Maybe in a couple years....
I saw the new XTR stuff on a Santa Cruz bike yesterday. It was hanging on the back of a Land Rover at a car show of all places. I don't know what it costs but it sure looked trick and seemed precise for the limited amount of fiddling with it I got to do. Maybe in a couple years....
Tim
Be a good time to pickup last years XTR. Still fine stuff for about a buck cheaper.
[email hidden] (TDWFL) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
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I saw the new XTR stuff on a Santa Cruz bike yesterday. It was hanging on the back of a Land Rover at a car show of all places. I don't know what it costs but it sure looked trick and seemed precise for the limited amount of fiddling with it I got to do. Maybe in a couple years....
Tim
I rode the new xtr stuff at the last xc race I did, the shifters were weird, down shifting works fine but up shifting with the back of your fingers to me lacked sensitivity. It works well but, well, what's the point?
"Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
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Why on earth would anyone buy a XTR front der? --
I dunno, but I have one on my Bullit. It was all that was available at
the
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time?
Mike
The sum of all beers.
Well then, you're excused... plus you've been drinking ;^ 0
Hey, I was about to email about the Shiver. I need to change my springs. Anything special I need/need to know before I crack her open?
The top caps come off like their other forks. Remove the preload knobs, circlip under that, top cap, etc. The lower legs will want to fall out at this point. Keep the axle on and compress the fork on the floor while you swap the springs. When you put everything together be sure the preload adjusters are where you want them. I did an oil wt. change at Mount Snow and the preload adjuster was all the way down on one leg. It was getting
The fork rode so bad I couldn't control it and crashed several times in a practice run.
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Marzochhi's manual doesn't show tearing down their forks anymore??
The downloadable ones do. If you can't find one I have one I can e-mail to you.
I did an oil wt. change at Mount Snow and the preload adjuster was all the way down on one leg. It was getting
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The fork rode so bad I couldn't control it and crashed several times in a practice run.
The only black flys I know of are flys.comflys.comOpen ↗ The ones you ran into must've been an East coast thing ;^ )
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Marzochhi's manual doesn't show tearing down their forks anymore??
The downloadable ones do. If you can't find one I have one I can e-mail
to
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you.
Mike
Yeah, if would, please shoot me that manual. I've already downloaded 2001-04 and Marzocchi stripped them of any real info. I called them today and they wanted to sell me CD for $10. When the hell did we start having to pay for a frig'n manual... sheesh!!!
I bought some fork bumpers from them the other week. I was stoked because they were only $6. Got the invoice and they charged $7.5 for shipping... gotta love that. I know it shouldn't bother me that much, but little stuff like this really kinks my panties. -- Slacker
[email hidden] (TDWFL) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
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I saw the new XTR stuff on a Santa Cruz bike yesterday. It was hanging on the back of a Land Rover at a car show of all places. I don't know what it costs but it sure looked trick and seemed precise for the limited amount of fiddling with it I got to do. Maybe in a couple years....
Tim
I rode the new xtr stuff at the last xc race I did, the shifters were weird, down shifting works fine but up shifting with the back of your fingers to me lacked sensitivity. It works well but, well, what's the point?
It's all a matter of getting used to. I only use the back of my fingers on very steep climbs when downshifting. I have the standard Low Normal setting. Most of the time when downshifting I lift the lever with the first joint of my middlefinger, while my indexfinger pushes against the lever so that I will not activate the brake. In this way all the shifting is pretty much done with the middle finger and the index finger kinda supporting.
The brake levers also has an adjustment screw so they can be adjusted in to match the joints of your fingers. I don't have small hands but adjusted the brakelever inwards maybe 10 mm. Be careful though 'cause that screw is really flimsy.
I don't much appreciate the front shifting especially from middle ring to big ring. But, shifting in the rear is unbeliavably fast and easy, especially if you are going back and forth continuously between a couple of gears, due to shifts in the terrain.