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Nimbus Gel Saddle

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
30 August 2007
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3 September 2007
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drac
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  1. Hi all. I recently purchased a Nimbus 36" with the gel saddle. Riding
    continually for more than 30mins makes everything go numb. I have tried
    changing the angle of the seat which doesn't seem to make much of a
    difference. I wear shorts with a chamois which is very comfortable on
    the MTB (which I can all day without any problem.

    A few questions.
    1. is there any way of making this seat more comfortable (I have heard
    of people cutting the seat to make it flatter)
    2. any other suggestions for comfort in general.

    Thanks.
    Michael.
    🙂

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  2. drac said:

    A few questions.
    1. is there any way of making this seat more comfortable (I have heard
    of people cutting the seat to make it flatter)
    2. any other suggestions for comfort in general.

    When you tried changing the angle were you using a rail post or the
    standard four bolt attachment to the saddle? A rail post gives far
    more angle adjustment and may be worth trying if you don't have one
    already.

    Also remember that people's bodies and personal preferences vary
    hugely. I love the Nimbus gel but other people may find it is not the
    saddle for them. You may like to try something else like the KH fusion
    freeride.

    For road riding it helps to have both hands on the handle so that you
    can push down every now and then. This allows you to adjust where your
    weight is apportioned on the saddle. I often ride like this for a few
    minutes, supporting most of my weight on my arms, rather than my rear.
    This helps prevent or relieve numbness.

    --
    peter.bier

    -Peter Bier
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  3. Thanks Peter. I have the T7 touring handle.
    Michael.

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  4. I have that seat, with rail adapter, on my Coker. Seat angles
    significantly up in the front. Made a huge difference in comfort for
    me. My sitting weight is not concentrated on the big flat part of the
    seat.

    Something else that has helped us on longer rides: I set my watch to
    beep every 5 minutes. When it does, we'll slow down and stand on the
    pedals while we ride. We bob up and down for 20 or 30 seconds, looking
    like idiots (the duration of the beeping) thus massaging the crotchal
    zone and allowing nerve relief and blood flow. This technique works
    almost as good as dismounting and walking around for a bit.

    -Mmud

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  5. Think like a bicyclist!

    1) Spread your weight
    Basically if you are road unicycling for any period of time, you should
    set up the seat more like a bike seat. Bicyclists can ride for hours
    at a time because of the ability to distribute their weight evenly
    between their handlebars and the seat. A unicycle handle should be
    used to distribute some of your body weight, so bend down and lean on
    your handle. I tend to ride with quite a low posture (like a
    bicyclist), with my back at about 45 degrees when I'm riding hard. It
    also lowers your centre of gravity and lets you go faster.

    2) Get off your seat
    Another thing you can do is get off the seat every now and then (eg
    when climbing) to ease those pressure areas. Just like a bicyclist :p

    3) Flatten your seat
    Ever seen a bicycle seat curve upwards to squash your squishy bits? No,
    bicyclists wouldn't tolerate curved bike seats, neither should you. I
    think unicycles seats developed the curve because, historically, there
    have not been any good handles to rest your weight on.
    Also, unicycle seats originated from freestyle use, where you kept your
    hands off the saddle and let your crotch do the steering/control.
    There is no reason to do that on a road unicycle. Sit on your saddle,
    not in it!

    4) Use the shortest cranks possible.
    Unicycles tend to run a very low gear, hence causing a lot of bouncing
    force when pedalling fast. In contrast, bicyclists are generally
    pushing against more force on their pedals, which gives them a small
    amount of lift off the saddle*. You can mimic this on a unicycle by
    using the shortest cranks that you can comfortably pedal for the
    terrain. Greater force to turn the pedal (due to less leverage from
    shorter cranks), mean that you get some of this "lift". As a bonus,
    there will be less chopping (and chafing) of your limbs flailing up and
    down on long cranks, you will track in a straighter line, and you will
    also go faster and in better control.

    Just my 2c worth,

    Ken Looi

    *try riding a bike in very low gear (not just spinning fast), but
    rather stick it in a ridiculously low gear and see how fast you can
    pedal. Now see how far you go before getting sore in your squishy
    areas from all that low resistance bouncing force.

    --
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  6. Thanks Ken.I am using 152mm cranks at the moment, cos that's what came
    with it. I haven't tried shorter cranks yet.

    How would you go about flattening the gel seat?

    Michael.

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  7. drac said:

    Thanks Ken.I am using 152mm cranks at the moment, cos that's what came
    with it. I haven't tried shorter cranks yet.

    How would you go about flattening the gel seat?

    Michael.

    You can add another wedge of foam under the stock foam in the middle
    and it will push up the center of the foam and make the seat flatter
    overall. I had tried this but I found that I liked it without the extra
    foam even better. Just angle the front of the saddle up and make sure
    you pull the boys up in front so that you aren't crushing them

    Switching to even just 125mm cranks makes a huge different in comfort
    when going the distance.

    --
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  8. Memphis Mud said:

    Seat angles significantly up in the front. ...My sitting weight is not
    concentrated on the big flat part of the seat.

    Sorry - dastardly typo. I meant to say the weight is NOW concentrated
    on the big flat part of the seat.

    Say the seat is pointed way down in front. Then none of your weight
    would be on the big flat part of the seat. All of your weight would be
    focused on the crotchal zone. So, if you angle the front of the seat
    dramatically up, so that the big flat part is on a horizontal plane,
    your weight will be off the twins. Gravity pulls you straight down and
    presses you mostly on a horizontal surface. Make sure the horz surface
    is beneath the spot you prefer to press. You'll sit on your butt bones
    not on the twins or the area behind them.

    Gizmoduck's #1 handlebar advice sounds good. I don't have a handle
    other than the tip of the seat, so I haven't been able to adjust my
    riding in that manner. Makes perfect sense though.

    Best advice is give the crotch a break. Either while riding or hop off
    every now and then.

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  9. Memphis Mud said:


    Gizmoduck's #1 handlebar advice sounds good. I don't have a handle
    other than the tip of the seat, so I haven't been able to adjust my
    riding in that manner. Makes perfect sense though.

    What sort of seat do you use? Most of the time I ride on a Std KH seat
    handle, and occasionally with a GB4 handle. Neither of these are ultra
    long extensions like the T7. The seats are pretty long, so you can
    still sit right back on the seat and rest both hands on the handle,
    even if it's just the std KH plastic handle. I'm sure a T7 or longer
    extension would be better though, but they look a bit too upright for
    my tastes.

    --
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  10. Not very clear in this pic, but you get the idea. I was using a GB4
    extension. I think it would be much better if I had a longer extension
    though, as it was not the most comfortable position to hold for
    several hours- I was taking alot of weight on my arms.

    For shorter rides, this position does spread your weight between your
    arms and bottom quite well.

    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    |Filename: low position.jpg |
    |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/22023 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+

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  11. And stand up on the climbs. It helps the blood recirculate your crotch:

    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    |Filename: Standing Hillclimb.jpg |
    |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/22024 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+

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  12. Great scenery and great tips Ken. You said before you make your saddle
    flatter. How do you do this?

    Michael.

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  13. I use a KH carbon seatbase with a fusion type removable cover. I had
    some older 1st generation ultra thick KH saddles- so I just took the
    foam out and cut it with a breadknife so that it sits as flat as
    possible. The newer KH styles seats have much thinner foam
    (thankfully!), but it means that there is less to trim. I'm sure you
    could put a wedge of foam under the stock KH fusion saddle (like BrianO
    suggetsed) to reduce the curve. On the other hand, I think the KH new
    fusion freeride saddles are much flatter than previous versions.

    --
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  14. GizmoDuck said:

    I use a KH carbon seatbase with a fusion type removable cover.

    Hey Ken,

    Are these carbon seatbases commercially available, or was that a
    special deal? I looked at all the KH saddle options on UCD (USA), and
    couldn't find any mention of a carbon base. And checking the saddle
    components section turned up on the gemcrest CF base, which is really
    curvy. I'm looking for CF, but relatively flat profile CF.

    --
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  15. Hi Tom,

    Sorry, I should have said, I think it is a gemcrest carbon seat made in
    the same shape as the KH seatbase. From memory they are made in the
    UK, so you may want to check with Roger at unicycle.com.

    --
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  16. GizmoDuck said:

    What sort of seat do you use? ...

    I just use the garden variety Nimbus Gel which has a molded plastic
    sort of handle stuck on the front. Nothing fancy. Yesterday I rode
    some, per your instructions, leaning forward and pressing one and then
    two hands on it. With two, its kind of crowded -- and my hands get
    tired. But it definately relieves pressure. It also seemed to make me
    go faster/easier. I can see how the technique would help.

    The biggest jump in comfort that we noticed was by standing in the
    saddle every so often.

    --
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  17. sorry this might be stupid but since the carbon bases have exactly the
    same shape (the one rodger makes at least - i have one on my trials) as
    the plastic/metal KH ones how would changing to one make it any
    different for seat confort?

    --
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  18. brendan said:

    sorry this might be stupid but since the carbon bases have exactly the
    same shape (the one rodger makes at least - i have one on my trials) as
    the plastic/metal KH ones how would changing to one make it any
    different for seat confort?

    I never said it did, I just said that I used a carbon seat base. It's
    the foam that you can flatten by various sculpting techniqes and bread
    knife :p . I would love it if Roger could make a flat KH carbon
    seatbase, but I understand the molds are pretty expensive to make.

    --
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