If I switch my 53/39 for a 50/34...

Marty said:

Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
the FD down a bit.

Assuming the same cassette as now, I'd leave the chain length the
same. Going from a 53T to a 50T big ring, you could probably remove
one link. Not worth the effort.

Art Harris

"Art Harris" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Marty said:

Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
the FD down a bit.

Assuming the same cassette as now, I'd leave the chain length the
same. Going from a 53T to a 50T big ring, you could probably remove
one link. Not worth the effort.

Art Harris

Art,
you have to remove two links, you'll know when you shift to the 34t.
-tom

I've switched to compacts on my bikes and the original Dura Ace/Ultegra
front works just fine. You just have to lower it a bit. Don't really have
an answer for the chain length question -- I was running 50/39's on the
original cranks. It's probably a good idea to check the length anyway.

"Marty" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

do I need to change my front derailleur too? I'm thinking no, but I'm
not sure. Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
the FD down a bit. Maybe a new BB too if I can't find a square taper
compact crankset.

Anything else to consider here?

Thanks.
--
Marty

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Marty said:

do I need to change my front derailleur too? I'm thinking no, but I'm
not sure. Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
the FD down a bit. Maybe a new BB too if I can't find a square taper
compact crankset.

Lower FD and remove 1 link, assuming the chain was proper length to
start with. We have a Veloce 172.5 compact, square taper deeply
discounted.

Quoted message said:

Anything else to consider here?

Nope

Quoted message said:

Thanks.
--
Marty

Tom Nakashima said:

"Art Harris" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Marty said:

Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
the FD down a bit.

Quoted message said:

Assuming the same cassette as now, I'd leave the chain length the
same. Going from a 53T to a 50T big ring, you could probably remove
one link. Not worth the effort.

Quoted message said:

Art Harris

Art,
you have to remove two links, you'll know when you shift to the 34t.
-tom

Outside section+inside section= 1 link.

"Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Tom Nakashima said:

"Art Harris" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Marty wrote:
> Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
> the FD down a bit.

Quoted message said:

Assuming the same cassette as now, I'd leave the chain length the
same. Going from a 53T to a 50T big ring, you could probably remove
one link. Not worth the effort.

Quoted message said:

Art Harris

Art,
you have to remove two links, you'll know when you shift to the 34t.
-tom

Outside section+inside section= 1 link.

Ok, I counted it as 2.
-tom

Marty said:

do I need to change my front derailleur too? I'm thinking no, but I'm
not sure. Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
the FD down a bit. Maybe a new BB too if I can't find a square taper
compact crankset.

Anything else to consider here?

Thanks.
--
Marty

A standard FD worked fine for me when I installed a 50/34 compact,
just had to drop it a bit. This was a Shimano setup.

Smokey

Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:

Marty said:

do I need to change my front derailleur too? I'm thinking no, but I'm
not sure. Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
the FD down a bit. Maybe a new BB too if I can't find a square taper
compact crankset.

Lower FD and remove 1 link, assuming the chain was proper length to
start with. We have a Veloce 172.5 compact, square taper deeply
discounted.

How much? BTW - this is DA 8 speed. I added a new 8 speed DA cog
set, new chain (SRAM PC-68 I think) and new FSA chainrings. Maybe
have 2000 miles on this stuff. So, my question is - if the campy
crankset comes with campy chainrings, will they work okay with the DA
8 speed FD and the SRAM chain that I have?
--
Marty

Marty said:

On Sep 12, 12:37 pm, "Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"

Quoted message said:

On Sep 12, 10:10 am, Marty <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

do I need to change my front derailleur too? I'm thinking no, but I'm
not sure. Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
the FD down a bit. Maybe a new BB too if I can't find a square taper
compact crankset.

Quoted message said:

Lower FD and remove 1 link, assuming the chain was proper length to
start with. We have a Veloce 172.5 compact, square taper deeply
discounted.

How much? BTW - this is DA 8 speed. I added a new 8 speed DA cog
set, new chain (SRAM PC-68 I think) and new FSA chainrings. Maybe
have 2000 miles on this stuff. So, my question is - if the campy
crankset comes with campy chainrings, will they work okay with the DA
8 speed FD and the SRAM chain that I have?
--
Marty

Yes it will but you will need a new BB..Compatible(Campagnolo AC-H)
start at $30..Centaur is $65.

Marty said:

On Sep 12, 12:37 pm, "Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"

Quoted message said:

On Sep 12, 10:10 am, Marty <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

do I need to change my front derailleur too? I'm thinking no, but I'm
not sure. Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
the FD down a bit. Maybe a new BB too if I can't find a square taper
compact crankset.

Quoted message said:

Lower FD and remove 1 link, assuming the chain was proper length to
start with. We have a Veloce 172.5 compact, square taper deeply
discounted.

How much? BTW - this is DA 8 speed. I added a new 8 speed DA cog
set, new chain (SRAM PC-68 I think) and new FSA chainrings. Maybe
have 2000 miles on this stuff. So, my question is - if the campy
crankset comes with campy chainrings, will they work okay with the DA
8 speed FD and the SRAM chain that I have?
--
Marty

$70 gets you the crank, BTW-plus $8 s/h. $100 for the BB/crank and
I'll pay shipping.

"Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com" <[email hidden]> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Marty said:

On Sep 12, 12:37 pm, "Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"

Quoted message said:

On Sep 12, 10:10 am, Marty <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

> do I need to change my front derailleur too? I'm thinking no, but
> I'm
> not sure. Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
> the FD down a bit. Maybe a new BB too if I can't find a square taper
> compact crankset.

Quoted message said:

Lower FD and remove 1 link, assuming the chain was proper length to
start with. We have a Veloce 172.5 compact, square taper deeply
discounted.

How much? BTW - this is DA 8 speed. I added a new 8 speed DA cog
set, new chain (SRAM PC-68 I think) and new FSA chainrings. Maybe
have 2000 miles on this stuff. So, my question is - if the campy
crankset comes with campy chainrings, will they work okay with the DA
8 speed FD and the SRAM chain that I have?
--
Marty

$70 gets you the crank, BTW-plus $8 s/h. $100 for the BB/crank and
I'll pay shipping.

This is because Shimano is JIS and Campy is ISO?

I'd like to keep the BB that I have. Though, I have been looking for an
excuse to stop in your shop. I live in Longmont, which is why I'm
interested in the 50/34. I'm from WI and lived in MN for 13 years and I
never had a problem with 39/23 on any hill that I'd ridden while living in
either of those states. Not true since moving to CO. Left onto Lee Hill
from Left Hand Canyon (going towards Ward) was really tough (for me) in
39/23. :-) Old Stage is an almost complete out of the saddle grind fest as
well. I either need easier gearing or more time on the bike to make these
hills more manageable. Jamestown isn't bad with the gearing I have now.
But I think Ward would hurt a lot. Then there are all the bigger climbs
that I want to do that I think may be even more difficult. I have much to
explore around here and I don't want blow out my knees in the process. I
see lots of triple setups and compacts at work and now I understand why.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
--
Marty

Marty said:

"Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com" <[email hidden]> wrote in
messagenews:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Marty said:

On Sep 12, 12:37 pm, "Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

<[email hidden]> wrote:
> On Sep 12, 10:10 am, Marty <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> > do I need to change my front derailleur too? I'm thinking no, but
> > I'm
> > not sure. Pretty sure I'd need to remove a few chain links and move
> > the FD down a bit. Maybe a new BB too if I can't find a square taper
> > compact crankset.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

> Lower FD and remove 1 link, assuming the chain was proper length to
> start with. We have a Veloce 172.5 compact, square taper deeply
> discounted.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

How much? BTW - this is DA 8 speed. I added a new 8 speed DA cog
set, new chain (SRAM PC-68 I think) and new FSA chainrings. Maybe
have 2000 miles on this stuff. So, my question is - if the campy
crankset comes with campy chainrings, will they work okay with the DA
8 speed FD and the SRAM chain that I have?
--
Marty

Quoted message said:

$70 gets you the crank, BTW-plus $8 s/h. $100 for the BB/crank and
I'll pay shipping.

This is because Shimano is JIS and Campy is ISO?

That is correct..altho the same 2 degrees, shimano in millimeters is
alrger so the crank won't press onto the BB spindle the proper
distance. I know many will say 'poo-poo' but it's like morphing a Ford
water pump onto a chevy..lots of Campag BBs out there.

Quoted message said:

I'd like to keep the BB that I have. Though, I have been looking for an
excuse to stop in your shop. I live in Longmont, which is why I'm
interested in the 50/34. I'm from WI and lived in MN for 13 years and I
never had a problem with 39/23 on any hill that I'd ridden while living in
either of those states. Not true since moving to CO. Left onto Lee Hill
from Left Hand Canyon (going towards Ward) was really tough (for me) in
39/23. :-) Old Stage is an almost complete out of the saddle grind fest as
well. I either need easier gearing or more time on the bike to make these
hills more manageable. Jamestown isn't bad with the gearing I have now.
But I think Ward would hurt a lot. Then there are all the bigger climbs
that I want to do that I think may be even more difficult. I have much to
explore around here and I don't want blow out my knees in the process. I
see lots of triple setups and compacts at work and now I understand why.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
--
Marty