What's the best way to make old brake levers (ca '95, for traditional cantilevers) compatible with newer MTB brakes? Should a use a regular V-brake with a V-Daptor, a Tektro Mini-V, or what? Good modulation is important.
The problem is, I need a new suspension fork, but I don't want to replace everything else -- brakes, brake levers, shifters, etc. I'm sick of combing eBay for old Judy parts and other old forks with brake hangers.
Of course it would be great if clamp-on brake hangers were available.
What's the best way to make old brake levers (ca '95, for traditional cantilevers) compatible with newer MTB brakes? Should a use a regular V-brake with a V-Daptor, a Tektro Mini-V, or what? Good modulation is important.
The problem is, I need a new suspension fork, but I don't want to replace everything else -- brakes, brake levers, shifters, etc. I'm sick of combing eBay for old Judy parts and other old forks with brake hangers.
Of course it would be great if clamp-on brake hangers were available.
Matt O.
Just get new brake levers, around $15 for some spiffy Tektros. If you have integrated shifter/brake levers, the basic Shimano EZ-fire combos used on cheapie mtbs and hybrids shift just fine and have a long pull for vee brakes. Available for seven and eight speed clusters for $30- ish.
If you're attached to your old kit, then use a Travel Agent. I saw a new version that attaches inline in case you want to use the old levers with cable disc brakes.
What's the best way to make old brake levers (ca '95, for traditional cantilevers) compatible with newer MTB brakes? Should a use a regular V-brake with a V-Daptor, a Tektro Mini-V, or what? Good modulation is important.
The problem is, I need a new suspension fork, but I don't want to replace everything else -- brakes, brake levers, shifters, etc. I'm sick of combing eBay for old Judy parts and other old forks with brake hangers.
Of course it would be great if clamp-on brake hangers were available.
New levers are cheaper than the adapters but either will work. MiniV have clearance issues, not always workable. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
What is the typical limitation on tire size for such brakes? I have a flat bar road bike with fattish slicks (about 38mm) whose crappy, crappy rear cantilevers I would like to replace with Mini-Vs if it's plausible.
Does anybody here know the pivot-to-cable distance for Tektro Mini- Vs?
What is the typical limitation on tire size for such brakes? I have a flat bar road bike with fattish slicks (about 38mm) whose crappy, crappy rear cantilevers I would like to replace with Mini-Vs if it's plausible. Does anybody here know the pivot-to-cable distance for Tektro Mini- Vs?
Cable clears a 35mm tire on most bikes. Stud position might vary a small amount. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
What's the best way to make old brake levers (ca '95, for traditional cantilevers) compatible with newer MTB brakes? Should a use a regular V-brake with a V-Daptor, a Tektro Mini-V, or what? Good modulation is important.
The problem is, I need a new suspension fork, but I don't want to replace everything else -- brakes, brake levers, shifters, etc. I'm sick of combing eBay for old Judy parts and other old forks with brake hangers.
Of course it would be great if clamp-on brake hangers were available.
New levers are cheaper than the adapters but either will work. MiniV have clearance issues, not always workable.
Do the adaptors work well, or are they hopelessly fiddly to set up?
This seems like the best solution, because if I get new brake levers I have to get new shifters too.
I'm also thinking of making a cable hangar out of a brake booster.
A bolt-on cable hanger. As the disclaimer says, it should go on the top loop of the sliders, not on the crown.
I'd be more inclined to try a powerhanger first, as this design doesn't have the unstable equilibrium of the Tektro stop. With the Tektro the brakes will fail if the bolt slips, as it is not designed to work with a flat surface.
What is the typical limitation on tire size for such brakes? I have a flat bar road bike with fattish slicks (about 38mm) whose crappy, crappy rear cantilevers I would like to replace with Mini-Vs if it's plausible.
Does anybody here know the pivot-to-cable distance for Tektro Mini- Vs?
Do the adaptors work well, or are they hopelessly fiddly to set up?
I've used the Travel Agent and found the set-up a minor, but not negligible trouble. The cable had to be "helped" some with a tool to settle properly at the transition and you had to guesstimate how much slack you were going to end up with. Still, no big deal. It might have you grumbling, but not cursing out loud.
New levers are cheaper than the adapters but either will work. MiniV have clearance issues, not always workable.
YCHYCAEIT there you are 80mph sideways over the snow, tap the rear off the snowbank head down the straight foot down and... the experience comes to a stop as the floor pan slides up onto a 1' drift
Clever in that they realized it required a 2:1 lever ratio of the cable anchor and that its angles needed to be matched to that specific fork spacing between anchor bolt to cantilever pivots. The two cable anchor levers are so short that a bit of pad wear can ruin the geometry as cosine error becomes limiting. The only plus I see is more tire clearance for mud, but then that gets lost if you ride in mud that causes rapid pad wear. I suspect this device will either get a redesigned or go away all together.
... there you are 80mph sideways over the snow, tap the rear off the snowbank head down the straight foot down and... the experience comes to a stop as the floor pan slides up onto a 1' drift
HEY! That sounds like my daily commute!
-- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia Beer - It's not just for breakfast anymore!
Clever in that they realized it required a 2:1 lever ratio of the cable anchor and that its angles needed to be matched to that specific fork spacing between anchor bolt to cantilever pivots. The two cable
Yes, exactly.
Quoted message said:
anchor levers are so short that a bit of pad wear can ruin the geometry as cosine error becomes limiting. The only plus I see is more tire clearance for mud, but then that gets lost if you ride in
More clearance compared to what?
Quoted message said:
mud that causes rapid pad wear. I suspect this device will either get a redesigned or go away all together.
And what exactly do you use *then* to hold the end of your outer cable?
