rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

Burs in the Nimbus 36 SE Rim

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
23 October 2007
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25 October 2007
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scotthue
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  1. On the new Nimbus 36 SE Rim, which is double walled so no rim tape is
    required. When the holes for the spokes were drilled, the burs were not
    ground off on mine. The ended in two flats, in different places but
    both on the inside of the tube, and taking the wheel apart to use a
    file on those burs. Just a friendly warning to all who have a SE Rim.

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    scotthue
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  2. Rim tape is usually used even on a double-walled rim, at least in my
    experience. But having said that, the wheel builder should check for
    and remove any burrs as a normal part of building the wheel. So
    building it with no rim tape AND leaving the burrs on is certainly
    cause for complaint!

    Rob

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  3. In removing burrs: a 'countersink bit' (http://tinyurl.com/29gqbh)
    and/or 'grinding point' (http://images.orgill.com/200x200/6988406.jpg)
    may produce a better finish than a hand file...

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  4. uh, you always need a rim strip with double walled rims. under any kind
    of pressure(enough to ride on certainly) the tube will go into the
    nipple hole and create a little bubble and pop. maybe no instantly, but
    soon. use a good rim strip, not a crappy rubber band-esque one. the
    burs should be removed during the wheel build, but it's fairly common
    to have a few left over/get missed. file it lightly and use a rim
    strip.

    --
    markf

    'my Des Moines Iowa Bike Shop' (http://www.irwinsbikes.com)
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  5. thanks, I will go out to my LBS and get some rim tape

    BTW how do I know that it is "good" rim tape "not a crappy rubber
    band-esque one"

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  6. In article
    <[email hidden]
    m>,
    maestro8 <[email hidden]> wrote:

    : In removing burrs: a 'countersink bit' (http://tinyurl.com/29gqbh)
    : and/or 'grinding point' (http://images.orgill.com/200x200/6988406.jpg)
    : may produce a better finish than a hand file...

    Or you could use a real deburring tool:

    http://www.cabelas.com/link-12/product/0018791210619a.shtml

    If there's a job, there's a right tool for it.

    Cheers - Tony 'Nicoya' Mantler 🙂

    --
    Tony 'Nicoya' Mantler - Master of Code-fu
    -- [email hidden] -- http://www.ubb.ca/ --

  7. ducttape works just fine for me.

    --
    mornish

    aim:kiloornish
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  8. Black electrical tape works too. And for that matter it comes in
    colors, get whatever the hell color you feel like.

    --
    Joe2005

    nobody knows what happened to that boy after that.-Nutcracker

    i know. he was kidnapped by aliens, learnt their ways, stole the
    biggest ship he could, travelled back in time by mistake and crashed
    the plane on the earth surface. he was the one who killed the
    dinosaurs. -ivan
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  9. Tony 'Nicoya' Mantler said:


    Or you could use a real deburring tool:

    http://www.cabelas.com/link-12/product/0018791210619a.shtml

    If there's a job, there's a right tool for it.

    Cheers - Tony 'Nicoya' Mantler 🙂

    --
    Tony 'Nicoya' Mantler - Master of Code-fu

    An easy way to show one's ignorance on a subject is to make a link to a
    totally unrelated website. Translation: you don't know what you're
    talking about. A "real" deburring tool that would work from a place
    that has the business of selling them: http://tinyurl.com/22lhat

    The deburring tool which you linked to is just a multiflute countersink
    with a high markup from a place that has no business selling it. A
    blade deburring tool like the one I linked to is the best for this job,
    since the holes aren't through a flat surface, so it'll be hard to get
    the lower burrs with a round tool.

    Never go without a rim strip.

    --
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    (Shut up and ride)

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  10. for rim tape i like velox but any sturdy cloth or plasticy tape will
    work. the bike shop should have a few different varieties. seriously
    though, the best way to get a non-rubber band one is to ask for a
    better one. the crappy elastic black ones wear out very quickly(couple
    years at best, couple months at worst) and better quality stuff will
    last a long time, like say a decade.

    --
    markf

    'my Des Moines Iowa Bike Shop' (http://www.irwinsbikes.com)
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  11. In article
    <[email hidden]
    m>,
    gerblefranklin <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    : An easy way to show one's ignorance on a subject is to make a link to a
    : totally unrelated website. Translation: you don't know what you're
    : talking about.

    I think your post was exceptionally rude, and would encourage you to apologize
    if you don't want to come across as being a total [censored].

    In future, I'd like to invite you to save everyone the trouble of reading your
    insulting drivel and just STFU.

    Cheers - Tony 'Nicoya' Mantler 🙂

    --
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  12. ehh
    decades?
    in a rim w/ no holes, sure, but a drilled rim= probably not.

    and tony, heed your own advice... you could have said what you wanted a
    whole lot nicer...

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    skrobo

    Quoted message said:

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  13. I apologize. My phrasing was rude. Your response to it was fair. But I
    think my point stands. Inside my "insulting drivel" was the idea that
    your suggestion was no different from the suggestion which you claimed
    to one-up, and I went beyond this claim to provide a further superior,
    and cheaper method of solving the problem.

    Whatever though. I'm glad you found my post interesting enough to use
    the fun description of "insulting drivel".

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  14. gerblefranklin said:

    Whatever though. I'm glad you found my post interesting enough to use
    the fun description of "insulting drivel".

    As rude as your original post was at least you made a valid point about
    using the right tool for the job and gave a reason why (the resulting
    circular edge to be deburred was no longer on a flat plane). Tony on
    the other hand responded with a post far exceeding what you did.

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  15. In article
    <[email hidden]
    m>,
    gerblefranklin <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    : I apologize. My phrasing was rude. Your response to it was fair.

    Thanks, I appreciate that.

    : But I
    : think my point stands. Inside my "insulting drivel" was the idea that
    : your suggestion was no different from the suggestion which you claimed
    : to one-up, and I went beyond this claim to provide a further superior,
    : and cheaper method of solving the problem.

    I didn't feel that the type of deburring tool you posted would be the most
    appropriate for this particular job. If the wrong size bit was purchased, you'd
    just end up bottoming out the tool in the hole, or running into the sides of the
    rim; and once you're over that hurdle you'll still run a higher risk of gouging
    the holes due to the fact that you're running it on fairly thin material.

    On the other hand, if we were shortening a seat tube here and needed to clean
    the burrs out of the inside of the cut, then that would be the perfect tool to
    use.

    Cheers - Tony 'Nicoya' Mantler 🙂

    --
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  16. Tony 'Nicoya' Mantler said:

    If there's a job, there's a right tool for it.

    Although posting in RSU isn't a proper job, I'll agree you're a right
    tool.

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  17. oddsends said:

    ...at least you made a valid point about using the right tool for the
    job and gave a reason why...

    Sir:

    You will be hearing, shortly, from my colleagues at the Wrong-Tool
    deFamation League, outlining -at length- the many contributions WT's
    have made to civilization and a statement, in simple layman's terms,
    illuminating the damage caused by so casually impugning the
    efficaciousness of utilizing a so-called wrong tool. (No need to
    bring up the Needless Sentence Diagramming Support Group, now, is
    there?)

    Good day.

    --
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  18. This isn't worth arguing about. Apathy takes hold too quickly. And yet I
    forge on:

    You'd have to be "deburring" a ripped-open soda can before the
    deburring tool became too unwieldy to use. Even then, a soft touch
    would prevent mishap. A rim is of great enough wall thickness that a
    gorilla could use the tool I linked to without mishap. Furthermore, the
    issue of rim-wall clearance is null with proper use of the tool.
    Whatever though. It's not like a unicyclist forum has any interest in
    proper blade-deburring tool techniques.

    good night.

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  19. Is it just me or has Tony been duplicating his posts from several days
    ago, or is the bridge to usenet borked?

    Tony 'Nicoya' Mantler said:

    In article
    <[email hidden]
    m>,
    gerblefranklin
    <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    --
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