New Chain

On 01/01/2008 21:38, Martin Bulmer said,

Quoted message said:

Should I lubricate my new chain, or just run it for a while with the thin
grease it arrived in?

Whenever I buy a new chain, I always take off the sticky grease it comes
with - it attracts dust and dirt like nobody's business.

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Martin Bulmer said:

Should I lubricate my new chain, or just run it for a while with the
thin grease it arrived in?

Remove excess grease from the outside (with a cloth lightly soaked with
white spirit or WD40), then run it for a while without adding any lube.

~PB

Paul Boyd said:

On 01/01/2008 21:38, Martin Bulmer said,

Quoted message said:

Should I lubricate my new chain, or just run it for a while with the
thin grease it arrived in?

Whenever I buy a new chain, I always take off the sticky grease it
comes with - it attracts dust and dirt like nobody's business.

You can just wipe the exterior. For the insides, it's a better lube than
anything you can apply.

~PB

On 01/01/2008 22:33, Pete Biggs said,

Quoted message said:

You can just wipe the exterior. For the insides, it's a better lube than
anything you can apply.

In the past, I've always used the Sheldon Shake on new chains, but I am
coming around to leaving the grease on the insides - I might on the next
new chain. The problem as I see it is that the first re-lube will
dilute the grease that is in there, and it will soon disappear anyway,
won't it?

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Paul Boyd said:

On 01/01/2008 22:33, Pete Biggs said,

Quoted message said:

You can just wipe the exterior. For the insides, it's a better lube
than anything you can apply.

In the past, I've always used the Sheldon Shake on new chains, but I
am coming around to leaving the grease on the insides - I might on
the next new chain. The problem as I see it is that the first
re-lube will dilute the grease that is in there, and it will soon
disappear anyway, won't it?

Yebut you might as well have some pure use of the original lube before the
first re-lube is needed. That can be a long time if you don't ride very
much in the wet.

That's the easy bit. The dilema comes when a re-lube is needed. Previously
I've done the Sheldon Shake too - but recently I've started wondering if
that doesn't flush as much grit in as it flushes out, even when repeated a
couple of times. The alternative is simply adding oil when needed. That's
not something Sheldon is totally against, btw.

~PB

In article <[email hidden]>, Pete Biggs
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

That's the easy bit. The dilema comes when a re-lube is needed. Previously
I've done the Sheldon Shake too - but recently I've started wondering if
that doesn't flush as much grit in as it flushes out, even when repeated a
couple of times. The alternative is simply adding oil when needed. That's
not something Sheldon is totally against, btw.

I really don't think it's worth trying to keep the chain pristine on a
hack/winter bike - just wipe, oil and wipe again, use a cheapish chain
and replace it regularly. When I used to look after my bikes properly I
would wash first in paraffin then in hot water and detergent, changing
until the water stayed clean and grit-free, rinse, and dry on a heater
or in the oven before relubing.

Martin Bulmer said:

Should I lubricate my new chain, or just run it for a while with the thin
grease it arrived in?

The grease it comes in is penetrated into the bearings far more thoroughly
than you will ever achieve again (and is also stickier, and thus will stay
in longer, than anything you can get in there). Wipe excess off the outside
of the chain with kitchen paper or similar, but on no account seek to clean
off or replace the lubricant in the chain.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; ... exposing the violence incoherent in the system...

In article <[email hidden]>, Simon Brooke
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Martin Bulmer said:

Should I lubricate my new chain, or just run it for a while with the thin
grease it arrived in?

The grease it comes in is penetrated into the bearings far more thoroughly
than you will ever achieve again (and is also stickier, and thus will stay
in longer, than anything you can get in there).

I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not
sure if anyone bothers with that these days.

"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>, Simon Brooke
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Martin Bulmer said:

Should I lubricate my new chain, or just run it for a while with the
thin
grease it arrived in?

The grease it comes in is penetrated into the bearings far more
thoroughly
than you will ever achieve again (and is also stickier, and thus will
stay
in longer, than anything you can get in there).

I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not
sure if anyone bothers with that these days.

Motorcyclists used to do it. I did it once and was banished from the
kitchen by my mother. Didn't stop me from rebuilding a BSA Bantom in my
bedroom though....

In article <[email hidden]>, vernon
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not
sure if anyone bothers with that these days.

Motorcyclists used to do it.

"Used to" - modern motorcycle chains have sealed bearings.

On 01/01/2008 23:24, Pete Biggs said,

Quoted message said:

Yebut you might as well have some pure use of the original lube before the
first re-lube is needed. That can be a long time if you don't ride very
much in the wet.

All-weather commuting and mud-bespattered mountain-biking :-)

Quoted message said:

The alternative is simply adding oil when needed.

I tend to do that on my commuting bike, with a suitable wipe over. The
MTB does get the Sheldon Shake a bit more regularly, and the "Am I
washing dirt in?" thought has crossed my mind on it's way out the other
side :-) On both bikes I use ProGold lubricant, which does seem to help
keep the chains nice and clean without too much effort.

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

On 02/01/2008 03:32, Rob Morley said,

Quoted message said:

When I used to look after my bikes properly I
would wash first in paraffin then in hot water and detergent, changing
until the water stayed clean and grit-free, rinse, and dry on a heater
or in the oven before relubing.

I did all that once, then promptly went out on the wettest, muddiest
ride I've ever done. One of those rides where you wish you hadn't
decided to ride through that puddle as the mud reaches axle level then
you stall 18" away from the bank at the side...

....but fall the other way :-(

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In article <[email hidden]>, vernon
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not
sure if anyone bothers with that these days.

Motorcyclists used to do it.

"Used to" - modern motorcycle chains have sealed bearings.

D.I.D. and Regina still make and sell non o-ring sealed chain especially in
the smaller sizes i.e for motor bikes of less than 500cc. The 'standard'
unsealed chain is exactly that - standard industrial transmission chain. I
used to buy mine in bulk from an industrial transmission engineering
supplier along with sealed cartridge bearings which were much cheaper than
the 'motor cycle specific' ones. Linklyfe the meltable solid lubricant is
still available though I'm not sure that it's suitable for bike chains.

Rob Morley said:

In article <[email hidden]>, vernon
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not
sure if anyone bothers with that these days.

Motorcyclists used to do it.

"Used to" - modern motorcycle chains have sealed bearings.

Which bicycle chain don't. Motorcyclists used to do it before 'o' ring
type seals, bicycle chains don't have such, well to my allbeit limited
knowledge.

Even so, there's still an argument in motorbike chains, hence the Snotoiler.

"Tosspot" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Rob Morley said:

In article <[email hidden]>, vernon
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

> I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not
> sure if anyone bothers with that these days.
Motorcyclists used to do it.

"Used to" - modern motorcycle chains have sealed bearings.

Which bicycle chain don't. Motorcyclists used to do it before 'o' ring
type seals, bicycle chains don't have such, well to my allbeit limited
knowledge.

Even so, there's still an argument in motorbike chains, hence the
Snotoiler.

There's an argument that a well maintained standard motorcycle chain is
better value for money than the O and X ring sealed chains. Especially for
lower powered motorbikes. The Scottoiler did its job OK provided you
remembered to keep it topped up. Isn't there a version for bikes?

Paul Boyd said:

On 01/01/2008 23:24, Pete Biggs said,

Quoted message said:

Yebut you might as well have some pure use of the original lube before
the first re-lube is needed. That can be a long time if you don't
ride very much in the wet.

All-weather commuting and mud-bespattered mountain-biking :-)

Quoted message said:

The alternative is simply adding oil when needed.

I tend to do that on my commuting bike, with a suitable wipe over. The
MTB does get the Sheldon Shake a bit more regularly,

I tried doing the Sheldon Shake with a few chains, until I realised that
it was not worth the time and effort. The time taken to remove the
chain, give it a good shake in meths, clean the meths off the chain,
wash the chain, dry it etc. etc, was more than the value of some chains.

Now I just oil the chain whilst it is still on the bike (not often
enough), and replace it when it starts to wear according to the gauge. I
don't think that the chains wear out that much quicker, but it saves all
the hassle.

Martin Dann said:

I tried doing the Sheldon Shake with a few chains, until I realised
that it was not worth the time and effort. The time taken to remove
the chain, give it a good shake in meths, clean the meths off the
chain, wash the chain, dry it etc. etc, was more than the value of
some chains.

I hope you mean white spirit or paraffin rather than meths. Meths doesn't
clean chains well and is dangerous to use in such large quanties.

White spirit doesn't need to be washed off, although running water may rinse
some remaining grit off, I suppose. You can simply hang the chain up to dry
straight after cleaning with WS, if you like.

~PB

vernon said:

"Tosspot" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Rob Morley said:

In article <[email hidden]>, vernon
[email hidden] says...
> "Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
> news:[email hidden]...
>> I reckon a hot grease bath will work pretty much as well, but I'm not
>> sure if anyone bothers with that these days.
> Motorcyclists used to do it.
"Used to" - modern motorcycle chains have sealed bearings.

Which bicycle chain don't. Motorcyclists used to do it before 'o' ring
type seals, bicycle chains don't have such, well to my allbeit limited
knowledge.

Even so, there's still an argument in motorbike chains, hence the
Snotoiler.

There's an argument that a well maintained standard motorcycle chain is
better value for money than the O and X ring sealed chains. Especially for
lower powered motorbikes. The Scottoiler did its job OK provided you
remembered to keep it topped up. Isn't there a version for bikes?

Right, I've sobered up now.

Yeah, there is a version for cycle chains, but personally I can't see
the point because of the inexpense and relative longevity of the cycle
chain wrt the motorbike chain. Indeed even the ease of maintenance.

On the point of O/X chains, I would concede that for lower power bikes
it probably does make sense to save the money and slap on some 5W-30 on
it. But my 'Bird has 'O' rings *and* a Scottoiler 🙂

Martin Dann said:

Paul Boyd said:

On 01/01/2008 23:24, Pete Biggs said,

Quoted message said:

Yebut you might as well have some pure use of the original lube
before the first re-lube is needed. That can be a long time if you
don't ride very much in the wet.

All-weather commuting and mud-bespattered mountain-biking :-)

Quoted message said:

The alternative is simply adding oil when needed.

I tend to do that on my commuting bike, with a suitable wipe over.
The MTB does get the Sheldon Shake a bit more regularly,

I tried doing the Sheldon Shake with a few chains, until I realised that
it was not worth the time and effort. The time taken to remove the
chain, give it a good shake in meths, clean the meths off the chain,
wash the chain, dry it etc. etc, was more than the value of some chains.

Now I just oil the chain whilst it is still on the bike (not often
enough), and replace it when it starts to wear according to the gauge. I
don't think that the chains wear out that much quicker, but it saves all
the hassle.

For the cheaper end chains[1] I know people that simply replace them
annually. I clean mine, but the annual replacement does seem a
reasonable plan.

[1] But not necessarily cheapest.