Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

I would like to buy a custom (non-folding) commuter bike on the Internet

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Cycling Equipment
Published
26 January 2008
Last activity
22 April 2008
Original author
Jay
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  1. I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
    a folder http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I
    don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
    they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
    train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.

    Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago. I
    need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
    weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.

    Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
    cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
    do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.

    The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
    of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
    not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
    suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?

    I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
    single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.

    I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
    tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
    for me.

    Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
    like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
    necessary.

    Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
    I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.

    Thanks for any suggestions - J.

  2. Jay said:

    I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
    a folderhttp://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg .  I
    don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
    they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
    train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.

    Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago.I
    need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
    weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.

    Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
    cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
    do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.

    The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
    of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
    not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
    suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?

    I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
    single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.

    I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
    tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
    for me.

    Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
    like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
    necessary.

    Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
    I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.

    Thanks for any suggestions - J.

    XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and ape-hangers? Nexus
    hub.

    Joseph

  3. Jay said:

    I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
    a folderhttp://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I
    don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
    they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
    train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.

    Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago. I
    need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
    weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.

    Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
    cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
    do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.

    The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
    of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
    not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
    suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?

    I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
    single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.

    I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
    tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
    for me.

    Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
    like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
    necessary.

    Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
    I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.

    Thanks for any suggestions - J.

    Cheap Dahon rebuilt onto a gear hub with drum brake? Front is not a
    standard hub spacing, so you're stuck with rim brakes on most 20"
    bikes. Just get some salmon Kool-Stops. Worked well enough for me in
    Chicago winters.

  4. Jay Bollyn said:

    I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
    a folder http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I
    don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
    they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
    train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.

    Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago. I
    need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
    weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.


    The suggestion (below) of a decent quality adult size BMX frame appears
    to be a good one, as long as you can find a frame large enough.

    Quoted message said:

    Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
    cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
    do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.

    The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
    of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
    not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
    suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?


    Yes, and I am unanimous in that.

    Until a large climate control dome covers Chicagoland, I would get the
    hub brakes, since you will not have the issues of poor braking and/or
    greater than normal rates of braking track wear on the rim while riding
    in snow and slush.

    Quoted message said:

    I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
    single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.


    An internally geared hub would provide similar or greater gearing range,
    and work better in said snow and slush that an exposed derailer system.

    Quoted message said:

    I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
    tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
    for me.


    For a commuter, no point in sacrificing reliability for a small weight loss.

    Quoted message said:

    Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
    like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
    necessary.

    Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
    I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.

    Thanks for any suggestions - J.


    Well, you have learned not to say "thanks in advance" which will incur
    the Wrath of Brandt.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
    - A. Derleth

  5. "Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Jay Bollyn said:

    I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike
    is a folder http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg .
    I don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels,
    because they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the
    commuter train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.

    Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in
    Chicago. I need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load
    (220 lbs body weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for
    my 6'4" height.


    The suggestion (below) of a decent quality adult size BMX frame appears to
    be a good one, as long as you can find a frame large enough.

    Quoted message said:

    Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money
    on cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike.
    But I do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.

    The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a
    lot of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which
    are not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it
    was suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?


    Yes, and I am unanimous in that.

    Until a large climate control dome covers Chicagoland, I would get the hub
    brakes, since you will not have the issues of poor braking and/or greater
    than normal rates of braking track wear on the rim while riding in snow
    and slush.

    Quoted message said:

    I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
    single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.


    An internally geared hub would provide similar or greater gearing range,
    and work better in said snow and slush that an exposed derailer system.

    Quoted message said:

    I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon
    Plus tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high
    priority for me.


    For a commuter, no point in sacrificing reliability for a small weight
    loss.

    Quoted message said:

    Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I
    would like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more
    if necessary.

    Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as
    when I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty
    of help.

    Thanks for any suggestions - J.


    Well, you have learned not to say "thanks in advance" which will incur the
    Wrath of Brandt.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
    - A. Derleth


    Wow, you guys never take a day off, even on weekends! Usenet Administration
    should rename RBT 'great.bike.advice.24-7'!

    OK, now I am just being silly (again)...

    I would indeed like to get away from an exposed derailleur system, because
    of my all-weather riding conditions. I simply did not know enough to
    (previously) spec an 'internally geared hub', but it sounds perfect for what
    I need. My route is fairly flat, but wind is of course variable and can be
    extreme, especially in fall and spring.

    Joseph has suggested 'XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and
    ape-hangers'. I don't know what an ape-hanger is, but it sounds kinky, so
    there is some appeal. I like to get full extension when I pedal, so I raise
    my seat to achieve it http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/winter/snow1.jpg . I
    see kids who, IMO have their seat way too low. I have no idea why they do
    it, but I do know that my 54-year-old knees will not handle the strain. I
    need to get the most from each pedal cycle (within reasonable
    already-mentioned limits).

    I don't know what 'decent quality BMX frame' means. Let's start at the top
    $, and work down if necessary. Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing
    about BMX frames.

    (I do realize I might be cited by the Snip Police, but I truly think all the
    previous data is relevant. So I have made no attempt to reduce the bit
    traffic over the wire.)

    (I did not know that TIA is a RBT no-no. I will try to be more creative,
    since I try to avoid clichés, anyway.)

    RBT is a certainly a priceless Internet resource!

    Grateful J.

  6. Jay said:

    I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike is
    a folder http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I
    don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
    they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the commuter
    train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.

    Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in Chicago. I
    need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load (220 lbs body
    weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for my 6'4" height.

    Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money on
    cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike. But I
    do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.

    The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a lot
    of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which are
    not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it was
    suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?

    I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
    single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.

    I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon Plus
    tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high priority
    for me.

    Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I would
    like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more if
    necessary.

    Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as when
    I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty of help.

    Do you mean something like this?
    http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  7. Jay said:

    "Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Jay Bollyn said:

    I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current bike
    is a folderhttp://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg .
    I don't need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels,
    because they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the
    commuter train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in
    Chicago. I need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load
    (220 lbs body weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough for
    my 6'4" height.

    Quoted message said:

    The suggestion (below) of a decent quality adult size BMX frame appears to
    be a good one, as long as you can find a frame large enough.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of money
    on cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest possible bike.
    But I do insist on quality and reliability, and will pay extra to get it.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a
    lot of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes which
    are not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question here, it
    was suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?

    Quoted message said:

    Yes, and I am unanimous in that.

    Quoted message said:

    Until a large climate control dome covers Chicagoland, I would get the hub
    brakes, since you will not have the issues of poor braking and/or greater
    than normal rates of braking track wear on the rim while riding in snow
    and slush.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
    single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.

    Quoted message said:

    An internally geared hub would provide similar or greater gearing range,
    and work better in said snow and slush that an exposed derailer system.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe Marathon
    Plus tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which is a high
    priority for me.

    Quoted message said:

    For a commuter, no point in sacrificing reliability for a small weight
    loss.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I
    would like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat more
    if necessary.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as
    when I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need plenty
    of help.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Thanks for any suggestions - J.


    Well, you have learned not to say "thanks in advance" which will incur the
    Wrath of Brandt.

    Quoted message said:

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
    - A. Derleth

    Wow, you guys never take a day off, even on weekends! Usenet Administration
    should rename RBT 'great.bike.advice.24-7'!

    OK, now I am just being silly (again)...

    I would indeed like to get away from an exposed derailleur system, because
    of my all-weather riding conditions. I simply did not know enough to
    (previously) spec an 'internally geared hub', but it sounds perfect for what
    I need. My route is fairly flat, but wind is of course variable and can be
    extreme, especially in fall and spring.

    Joseph has suggested 'XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and
    ape-hangers'. I don't know what an ape-hanger is, but it sounds kinky, so
    there is some appeal. I like to get full extension when I pedal, so I raise
    my seat to achieve ithttp://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/winter/snow1.jpg. I
    see kids who, IMO have their seat way too low. I have no idea why they do
    it, but I do know that my 54-year-old knees will not handle the strain. I
    need to get the most from each pedal cycle (within reasonable
    already-mentioned limits).

    I don't know what 'decent quality BMX frame' means. Let's start at the top
    $, and work down if necessary. Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing
    about BMX frames.

    (I do realize I might be cited by the Snip Police, but I truly think all the
    previous data is relevant.  So I have made no attempt to reduce the bit
    traffic over the wire.)

    (I did not know that TIA is a RBT no-no. I will try to be more creative,
    since I try to avoid clichés, anyway.)

    RBT is a certainly a priceless Internet resource!

    Grateful J.

    Shimano Nexus (and Inter series) hubs come in several variants with 3,
    7, and 8 speeds with or without a coaster brake, and also optional
    roller brake (drum brake I guess). Get a front hub with a dynamo to
    run your lights.

    Ape hangers are just really tall riser bars. Called ape hangers
    because guys on Harleys with them look like apes hanging from the
    overly high bars. But since the BMX frame has such a low front, it
    would be more or less in the right place.

    A BMX frame shouldn't cost more that $100. You might even start with a
    complete cheap BMX bike and swap out parts. Are you sure you even need
    gears?

    The super long seatpost might be a problem. Solution: Banana seat! ;-)

    It's been a long time since I needed to walk my bike around in crowds
    and on trains and stuff, but I always just yanked the stem and stood
    the bike up on it's back wheel. Does 20" wheels really make that big a
    difference?

    Joseph

  8. Jay Bollyn said:

    ...
    I would indeed like to get away from an exposed derailleur system, because
    of my all-weather riding conditions. I simply did not know enough to
    (previously) spec an 'internally geared hub', but it sounds perfect for what
    I need. My route is fairly flat, but wind is of course variable and can be
    extreme, especially in fall and spring.


    Wind in the "Windy City"???

    Quoted message said:

    Joseph has suggested 'XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and
    ape-hangers'. I don't know what an ape-hanger is, but it sounds kinky, so
    there is some appeal. I like to get full extension when I pedal, so I raise
    my seat to achieve it http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/winter/snow1.jpg . I
    see kids who, IMO have their seat way too low. I have no idea why they do
    it, but I do know that my 54-year-old knees will not handle the strain. I
    need to get the most from each pedal cycle (within reasonable
    already-mentioned limits).


    My knees hurt from just watching people ride with the seat way too low.

    Quoted message said:

    I don't know what 'decent quality BMX frame' means. Let's start at the top
    $, and work down if necessary. Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing
    about BMX frames.


    I am not up on BMX, but I would assume that a LBS quality frame would
    stand up to your use, but a Sprawl-Mart frame might not. The main issue
    besides fit would be mounting fenders and racks. Decent quality BMX
    bicycles appear to be in the $200-300 range, so the frames should be
    about one-half that.

    Quoted message said:

    (I do realize I might be cited by the Snip Police, but I truly think all the
    previous data is relevant. So I have made no attempt to reduce the bit
    traffic over the wire.)

    (I did not know that TIA is a RBT no-no. I will try to be more creative,
    since I try to avoid clichés, anyway.)

    RBT is a certainly a priceless Internet resource!


    I would suggest contacting a dealer who sells both commuter bicycles and
    BMX (Andrew Muzi at Yellow Jersey comes to mind) to see if this is a
    feasible idea.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
    - A. Derleth

  9. A Muzi said:

    Do you mean something like this?http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm
    --

    http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/mv9d.html

    Wow!

  10. Andrew Muzi said:
    Jay said:

    I am going to spend my tax refund check on a second bike. My current
    bike is a folder
    http://www.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/arkel/seat-mast-left.jpg . I don't
    need a folder anymore, but I do want to stick with 20" wheels, because
    they make my intermodal commute much easier, especially on the
    commuter train, and going up/down narrow escalators and stairs.

    Regular RBTers know that I commute 20 miles daily, year round, in
    Chicago. I need a bike which will be strong enough to support the load
    (220 lbs body weight + 30 lbs cargo). It also needs to be big enough
    for my 6'4" height.

    Since I am commuting and not racing, I don't need to spend a lot of
    money on cutting edge parts, in an attempt to get the lightest
    possible bike. But I do insist on quality and reliability, and will
    pay extra to get it.

    The bike also needs to be able to handle year round weather, without a
    lot of fussing. One thing I am reasonably sure of, is I need brakes
    which are not rim brakes. When I previously asked a related question
    here, it was suggested I use hub brakes. Is that the consensus choice?

    I am currently using an 8-speed cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur,
    single chain ring. This is enough gears for me.

    I had some wheels built, with Sun Rhyno Lite XL rims, Schwalbe
    Marathon Plus tires. These are working great, and I rarely flat, which
    is a high priority for me.

    Do I need a custom frame, or is there a stock frame which will work? I
    would like to keep this purchase under $800, but I will pay somewhat
    more if necessary.

    Thanks to previous suggestions from RBT, I am not quite as clueless as
    when I bought my folder two years ago. But I still obviously need
    plenty of help.

    Do you mean something like this?
    http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm


    Or <http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/swf.htm> for a more direct link.

    Looks like a custom build of the Bianchi small wheel frames would be in
    order to get internal hub gearing and hub brakes.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
    - A. Derleth

  11. landotter aka terra lutra said:
    A Muzi said:

    Do you mean something like this?http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm
    --

    http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/mv9d.html

    Wow!


    A road bicycle with proper size wheels. To bad about the color (not a
    celeste verde fan).

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
    - A. Derleth

  12. "Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    landotter aka terra lutra said:
    A Muzi said:

    Do you mean something like
    this?http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm
    --

    http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/mv9d.html

    Wow!


    A road bicycle with proper size wheels. To bad about the color (not a
    celeste verde fan).

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
    - A. Derleth


    You are right Tom,

    If I were to die tonight, and wake up a tree-hugging liberal, with whatever
    is the current godless sexual tendency, then LO's suggestion would be
    appropriate.

    I do think my friend LO is just trying to playfully stick a shiv into my
    conservative (any color as long as it is black) ribs.

    J.

  13. Jay Bollyn said:

    "Tom Sherman" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    landotter aka terra lutra said:

    On Jan 26, 2:16 pm, A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote:

    > Do you mean something like
    > this?http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/bianchi2008.htm
    > --

    http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/mv9d.html

    Wow!


    A road bicycle with proper size wheels. To bad about the color (not a
    celeste verde fan).


    You are right Tom,

    If I were to die tonight, and wake up a tree-hugging liberal, with whatever
    is the current godless sexual tendency, then LO's suggestion would be
    appropriate.

    I do think my friend LO is just trying to playfully stick a shiv into my
    conservative (any color as long as it is black) ribs.


    Well, "celeste verde" [1] is the standard Bianchi color. I have even
    seen Bianchi bicycles with matching green tires (ugh).

    How about full suspension: <http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2007/pic/b056.jpg>?

    Isn't it cute: <http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2007/pic/b058.jpg>?

    Funky frame: <http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2007/pic/b030.jpg>.

    [1] "Sky green", though I always think of it as "waste water treatment
    plant green".

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    "And never forget, life ultimately makes failures of all people."
    - A. Derleth

  14. On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:43:18 -0600, "Jay" <[email hidden]> wrote:

    [---]

    Quoted message said:

    My only suggestion would be to keep your left-coast politics distinct from
    your expert bike advice? Is this possible?

    *Yawn*

    My only suggestion would be to keep US politics out of rbt. Is this
    possible?

  15. "Andrew Price" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:43:18 -0600, "Jay" <[email hidden]> wrote:

    [---]

    Quoted message said:

    My only suggestion would be to keep your left-coast politics distinct from
    your expert bike advice? Is this possible?

    *Yawn*

    My only suggestion would be to keep US politics out of rbt. Is this
    possible?


    Could we please 'digress' to my original question?

    Why do I even need to make this request?!

    I do NOT want to discuss politics!!

    Confused J.

  16. Jay said:


    Quoted message said:


    You know, I get tired of saying that KZ is absolutely correct.

    Just for you, jay, I'll say something completely dishonest one of these days.
    I'll keep it a surprise, though, to keep you on your toes.

    --

    Kristian Zoerhoff
    [email hidden]

  17. "Kristian M Zoerhoff" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Jay said:


    Quoted message said:


    You know, I get tired of saying that KZ is absolutely correct.

    Just for you, jay, I'll say something completely dishonest one of these
    days.
    I'll keep it a surprise, though, to keep you on your toes.

    --

    Kristian Zoerhoff
    [email hidden]


    I hereby nominate our Usenet friend KZ for RBT Contributer of 2008! Saint
    Kristian!!

    KZ has expert bike advice, and the dry sense of humor coveted by Usenet
    regulars.

    We don't need the formality of a second. No need to see an actual bike
    miracle.

    Congrats SAINT KRISTIAN! U da man!

    J.

  18. Andrew Price said:

    On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:43:18 -0600, "Jay" <[email hidden]> wrote:

    [---]

    Quoted message said:

    My only suggestion would be to keep your left-coast politics
    distinct from your expert bike advice? Is this possible?

    *Yawn*

    My only suggestion would be to keep US politics out of rbt. Is this
    possible?

    Whaddya, new?

  19. Jay said:


    Joseph has suggested 'XXL size BMX frame with a monster long seatpost and
    ape-hangers'.


    <snip>

    Quoted message said:

    I don't know what 'decent quality BMX frame' means. Let's start at the top
    $, and work down if necessary. Keep in mind that I know absolutely nothing
    about BMX frames.

    BMX frames are not traditionally sized in inches, but by racing
    category. This is a custom that has extended even to bikes that are
    not used for racing. In order of size, the categories are:

    Micro (think four-year-old kid)
    Mini
    Junior
    Expert
    Pro
    Pro XL
    Pro XXL (more or less normal adult size)

    There are probably "Pro XXXL" and such frames out there, but there's
    no conventional understanding of sizing outside what I have named. If
    you are of average or larger adult stature, only Pro XXL frames will
    be suitable for your purposes. Some frames are sized in inches, but
    the size refers to the top tube length and not the seat tube. Don't
    bother with anything shorter than 21.5 inches.

    The vast majority of decent quality BMX frames are made for one of two
    purposes, but not both:

    Racing, or (more commonly)
    Freestyle-- which is jumping and other stunts.

    There is another discipline called "flatland", which is a kind of
    artistic cycling, but those bikes would be of no use to you
    whatsoever.

    Racing bikes will be lighter, more fragile (but still stronger than
    the bikes most of us are familiar with), and longer in the rear end.
    They have V-brake bosses mounted above the seatstays.

    Freestyle and dirt jumping bikes--variations of the same thing-- are
    built to take a beating. They tend to be heavier than full-sized MTB
    frames and very compact in the rear triangle. They usually have U-
    brake bosses mounted under the seatstays or above the chainstays.
    Note that many of these have 14mm dropout slots, for hubs with
    oversized axles. If you wish to use a 3/8" or 10mm axle, you'll have
    to have stepped washers to take up the difference in size.

    Here is an example of the most expensive sort of BMX frame you should
    consider buying:

    http://www.danscomp.com/211339.php

    It's a freestyle bike in a grownup frame size, with a grownup price of
    $289 for the frame only. Its dimensions are all quite generous for a
    freestyle bike, which is why it's an acceptable alternative to a
    racing frame. It has oversized dropout slots.

    Here is a racing frame that would make a decent choice:

    http://www.danscomp.com/201340.php

    It's pretty light, reasonably priced at $199, and fairly long in the
    rear triangle for a 20" bike. Here are a couple more of the same
    general description:

    http://www.danscomp.com/201073.php
    http://www.danscomp.com/201122.php

    Things to look for if you'd like to use a BMX bike as a commuter:

    25.4mm (1"😉 seatpost bore, which will allow a very long seatpost that
    won't bend. Consider having a machine shop make you one by turning
    down the top of a 1" aluminum rod or thick-walled tube to 7/8" to fit
    standard seat guts.

    U-brake bosses on the fork. If there are no bosses, you'll have to
    use a long reach BMX sidepull caliper (which is a bit like trying to
    stop your bike with chopsticks).

    Steep seat angle. BMX seat angles vary wildly. The slackest of them
    could easily put your saddle behind the rear axle if the seatpost is
    long enough for full extension.

    Handlebars with a minimum 8" of rise. 8" is the tallest common size
    anymore; you may want to add a HeadsUp riser or the like underneath
    the stem. The combination of a small wheel size and very short head
    tube will put your bars too low unless you take extreme measures. BMX
    handlebars are a different diameter than road or MTB bars, and their
    stems are all very short, so having tall bars means you can tilt them
    forward or back to get the right reach.

    Steel frame with relatively long chainstays. This will give you a
    fighting chance at spreading the rear end from the BMX standard width
    of 110mm to something usefully wider for a multi-speed hub. It will
    also allow you to add brazed-on details like a derailleur hanger and
    shift cable housing stops.

    There is one more kind of bike,now long departed, that might be a good
    basis for your commuter. Formula One (or F1) was a sort of BMX bike
    with gears for racing on autocross-style street courses. They came
    and went sometime around 1990, give or take. Such a frame, if you can
    find one, will be much taller than a normal BMX bike and set up for 6-
    speed derailleur gearing. Haro, Diamondback, and Redline made them.

    Good luck finding a suitable bike.

    Chalo

  20. landotter said:


    http://www.cycleurope.co.jp/2008/mv9d.html

    Wow!

    It has ISO 451 rims. Why in the world would that be preferable to ISO
    406? It's like the 650C of the twenty inch realm.

    Chalo

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