Times columnist ducks a Parris wire

On Sun, 03 Feb 2008 20:12:25 +0000

Chris Gerhard said:

Quoted message said:

Using this insight, I have developed a game combining my twin
interests of cycling and general knowledge. The game is to think,
as you pedal along, of something significant that happened on that
date in the moment that your milometer registers it. Beautiful in
its simplicity, no?

Hehe.

Takes me back to my later school and undergrad days, when for five
years I did a summer job of unskilled factory work to earn a few quid.
A lot of that involved large-scale repetition of a simple task,
often with a counter on a machine being used. So I'd play mind games
like that with the numbers as they passed.

--
not me guv

"Chris Gerhard" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

From:

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/comment/columnists/guest_contributors/article3278710.ece

Quoted message said:

I have a small electronic milometer on my bicycle which, among other
fascinating statistics (maximum speed, average speed, current speed),
records the distance covered to two decimal places. Thus ten and two
thirds of a mile shows up as 10.66, just shy of 16 and a half miles is
16.49, and so on. It will be seen immediately that although those figures
represent mileage, they can also be read as dates, very famous dates in
the case of the two examples.

Using this insight, I have developed a game combining my twin interests
of cycling and general knowledge. The game is to think, as you pedal
along, of something significant that happened on that date in the moment
that your milometer registers it. Beautiful in its simplicity, no?

You haven't got long. One one-hundredth of a mile is 17.6 yards, or not
much over 50 feet. In the time it takes to cover that distance, 14.15
(battle of Agincourt), say, to 14.16 (nothing immediately springs to
mind) you've got to come up with a birth, a death, a treaty, a
publication, an invention, an edict, an horrific brutal blood-soaked
racist massacre, something, anything, of at least a modicum of historical
importance. And then on to the next one. And the next, and the next, all
the while, of course, keeping a watchful eye out for Matthew “Piano Wire”
Parris, whose house I pass, ducking low, on the way to work. Not easy.

It continues. I wonder if he really passes Matthew "Piano Wire" Parris'
house.

He's probably the one who threw the bags of rubbish into the hedges! Must
have taken him months, and cost a fortune in fizzy drinks and chocolate.

In message <[email hidden]>

Chris Gerhard said:

The game is to think, as you pedal along, of something significant
that happened on that date in the moment that your milometer registers
it. Beautiful in its simplicity, no?

Err, but what happens to your frequent glances over your shoulder tp
make eye contact with the driver behind? If I tried this game I'd
loose cadence , find a twig or pothole, and generally get so
distracted.

Suppose I played it while I was driving? Scarey.

--
Charles
Brompton P6R-Plus; CarryFreedom -YL, in Motspur Park
LCC; CTC.

<[email hidden]> wrote in message

Quoted message said:

Err, but what happens to your frequent glances over your shoulder tp
make eye contact with the driver behind? If I tried this game I'd
loose cadence , find a twig or pothole, and generally get so
distracted.

I used to have a computer, but quickly took it off for that very reason.
Actually the problem was compounded by it having way too many screens and
fiddly buttons.

Jc

Quoted message said:

Err, but what happens to your frequent glances over your shoulder tp
make eye contact with the  driver behind?  If I tried this game I'd
loose cadence , find a twig or pothole, and generally get so
distracted.

Suppose I played it while I was driving? Scarey.

--
Charles
Brompton P6R-Plus; CarryFreedom -YL, in Motspur Park
LCC; CTC.

My first ride around the block after fitting my new cycle computer to
my Raleigh Mustang, at the age of about 12, ended with me lying on the
roof of the parked car I rode straight into while staring at the
little numbers clicking round. :o)

In message <[email hidden]
ups.com>

Quoted message said:

My first ride around the block after fitting my new cycle computer to
my Raleigh Mustang, at the age of about 12, ended with me lying on the
roof of the parked car I rode straight into while staring at the
little numbers clicking round. :o)

I'd love an audible notification if my speed dropped below average.

You get something like that on some Mercedes cars.

Probably the battery drain would be too great.

--
Charles
Brompton P6R-Plus; CarryFreedom -YL, in Motspur Park
LCC; CTC.

Quoted message said:

In message <[email hidden]
ups.com>

Quoted message said:

My first ride around the block after fitting my new cycle computer to
my Raleigh Mustang, at the age of about 12, ended with me lying on the
roof of the parked car I rode straight into while staring at the
little numbers clicking round. :o)

I'd love an audible notification if my speed dropped below average.

As I remember, you can set up the Garmin Edge 305 to do something like
that. I have mine set up to tell me when my cadence drops below 75 rpm.

It's not the cheapest cycle computer, but it's very good.

Cheers,
Luke

--
Red Rose Ramblings, the diary of an Essex boy in
exile in Lancashire <http://www.shrimper.org.uk>

<charlesA wrote

Quoted message said:

I'd love an audible notification if my speed dropped below average.

You get something like that on some Mercedes cars.

Probably the battery drain would be too great.

My God no! I find that the little flashing pace arrow on mine taunts me
into making my legs hurt.

Mike Sales

Quoted message said:

I'd love an audible notification if my speed dropped below average.

You get something like that on some Mercedes cars.

And I think most BMWs send an electric current through the driver's
seat if the speed drops below 90mph...

[Posted and mailed]

[Posted and mailed]

[Posted and mailed]

So what should I specify when I visit Mr Roberts of Croydon on Friday
week?

I have the following in mind:-

26" wheels - aluminium;
(stronger than 700 wheels? greater availability of different
tyres?)

Marathon plus tyres with presta valves;

Good clearance between tyres and mudguards;

SPD pedals - on the lowest security setting; and shoes;

Hub dynamo and photo-sensitive stand lights front and rear;

a Very Big rear cog and some smaller ones; half-step? triple front
chain rings?

comfortable drop handle bars with those sticky-outy brake housings you
can hold and really THICK handlebar tape;

Brakes (Rim)that I can operate with one finger; Magira hydraulics?
KoolStop salmon brake blocks;

gear controls integrated with the brake levers;

Brooks B17 saddle; (well. 50 years ago it was comfy)

front and rear pannier racks;

Garmin edge 705 cycle computer/GPS inc maps, cadence and heart rate
monitor; 010 00555-40;

a more-assertive-than-a-Brompton's bell;

cranks - 170mm or will Mr Roberts advise?

fit my spare CarryFreedom towing bracket;

Colour - all yellow. (for Hi-Viz - and that was what I ended up
painting the maroon Hercules I bought from Harrods 55 years ago)

my name on the frame. (Security/Bling)

Please suggest any changes I should consider; thank you, all.

--
Charles
Brompton P6R-Plus; CarryFreedom -YL, in Motspur Park
LCC; CTC.

"charles" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hub dynamo and photo-sensitive stand lights front and rear;

IQ fly for the front lamp - miles better than a halogen one.

Quoted message said:

a Very Big rear cog and some smaller ones; half-step? triple front
chain rings?

Triple, not half-step.

Quoted message said:

comfortable drop handle bars with those sticky-outy brake housings you
can hold and really THICK handlebar tape;

Brakes (Rim)that I can operate with one finger; Magira hydraulics?
KoolStop salmon brake blocks;

You won't get maguras any more :-( Anyway if you get those you can't use the
next bit:

Quoted message said:

gear controls integrated with the brake levers;

cheers,
clive

"Clive George" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

Quoted message said:

You won't get Maguras any more :-(

There's an unused HS66 set (misdescribed as H77) on eBay just now. They'll
go for more than I'm willing to pay.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300196445978

James Thomson

charles said:

So what should I specify when I visit Mr Roberts of Croydon on Friday
week?

I have the following in mind:-

Quoted message said:

Marathon plus tyres with presta valves;

I just use standard Marathons and find them pretty robust with a
puncture every blue moon or thereabouts. To the extent that I've never
considered the better protection of the Plus, as the extra weight and
rolling resistance will be there every inch I travel. If you're touring
through Hedge Clipping central then maybe get a pair for that, but IME
Marathons will do what's needed okay.

Quoted message said:

SPD pedals - on the lowest security setting; and shoes;

I mush prefer Time ATACs: no tension settings to faff about with,
engagement along a line rather than at a point to make life easier and
better float characteristics. They also seem to suffer less when your
cleats are worn. Cost a bit more, but if it's a Dream Machine...

For shoes, try on everything you can as all the makers have different
shapes. Cycle shops often don't have a very wide range so for this it's
worth looking everywhere you can to try on more. I imagine Mr. Roberts
would encourage this, as you might end up with what he has in any case.

Quoted message said:

Hub dynamo and photo-sensitive stand lights front and rear;

If it's a Dream, spend a little more on the SON, but the Shimanos work
pretty well too at half the money.

Quoted message said:

a Very Big rear cog and some smaller ones; half-step? triple front
chain rings?

What about a Rohloff? Very big range, and vastly reduced maintenance
and better reliability and a much tidier transmission. If you get a
Rohloff you want a design that ideally eliminates a chain tensioner
(eccentric BB or horizontal dropouts, though I imagine your man will
know what's needed and what's best).

Quoted message said:

Brakes (Rim)that I can operate with one finger; Magira hydraulics?

That's Magura. HS-33s are the ones, I /really/ like the ones on my
tourer. But they'll conflict with the drops you were after as the
levers won't go on drops.

Quoted message said:

KoolStop salmon brake blocks;

You're kind of stuck with Magura blocks if you've got their brakes. But
IME they work well, and there's a choice of different flavours.

Quoted message said:

Brooks B17 saddle; (well. 50 years ago it was comfy)

I like my Brooks and the B17 on the MTB is great. But possibly one of
their other models as an alternative? A Flyer (sprung) or the totanium
B17 to save a few grammes.

Quoted message said:

front and rear pannier racks;

Tubus look like the ones I'd have. Perhaps you already have bags to put
on them, but if not my personal choice is Ortlieb's lighter weight
("Plus"😉, in your choice of roll-top or buckle.

Quoted message said:

Please suggest any changes I should consider; thank you, all.

The mudguards I'd have are SKS.

It'll be the Wrong Answer, I expect, but the touring bike of /my/ dreams
has a comfy chair...

http://www.hpvelotechnik.com/produkte/sm/gt/index_e.html

Ever considered the Dark Side? ;-)

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

charles said:

So what should I specify when I visit Mr Roberts of Croydon on Friday
week?

When I went to Mr Roberts, I told him the general style of bike I had in
mind, where I wanted to ride, how far, what I wanted to carry, and how much
money I had.

I then asked what he could do to meet my needs and budget. I think this is
a much better approach.

Quoted message said:

I have the following in mind:-

26" wheels - aluminium;
(stronger than 700 wheels? greater availability of different
tyres?)

Depends where you plan to tour. Europe and on-road, I don't see the 26"
wheel argument as being conclusive. There are lots of European ordinary
bikes on 700c with touring/urban tyres.

Quoted message said:

Marathon plus tyres with presta valves;

Heavy, but depends what sort of touring you propose to do. For ordinary
road, I think they are overweight. Though you've been quite specific
elsewhere, you haven't mentioned the tyre section, which dictates a lot of
frame clearance issues.

Quoted message said:

Good clearance between tyres and mudguards;

If you want a tourer, this is normal.

Quoted message said:

SPD pedals - on the lowest security setting; and shoes;

Pedals are easy. Release setting is user-adjustable.

Quoted message said:

Hub dynamo and photo-sensitive stand lights front and rear;

If that is what you want, it is reasonable to ask for it.

Quoted message said:

a Very Big rear cog and some smaller ones; half-step? triple front
chain rings?

Specify the gear range you require (or use) for the routes proposed and your
legs. Let them suggest how its met.

If you also ride another bike, its worth telling them how it works; some
people find swapping between radically different gear arrangements to
require too much thinking (rather than just observe "uphill, click, gear
shifted"😉.

Given current parts, it will probably be a 9 or 10 speed rear.

Quoted message said:

comfortable drop handle bars with those sticky-outy brake housings you
can hold and really THICK handlebar tape;

I think they routinely fit an anti-vibration foam under the bar tape, though
ask about the bar covering options.

Quoted message said:

Brakes (Rim)that I can operate with one finger; Magira hydraulics?
KoolStop salmon brake blocks;

By all means ask about hydraulics, though (AFAIK) you won't get them with
integrated drop-bar levers!

Let them tell you what brakes work well with which levers (you might be
surprised!).

Quoted message said:

gear controls integrated with the brake levers;

If drop bars, you have to decide between Shimano and Campag levers. I would
guess (hope) that Roberts have a stash of 2006 Campag levers which are much
more flexible on what they work with (eg. Campag lever with Shimano shifter,
etc).

Quoted message said:

Brooks B17 saddle; (well. 50 years ago it was comfy)

That is always a personal choice. A B17 doesn't work for me.

Quoted message said:

front and rear pannier racks;

Reasonable. Probably be offered Tubus ones. Know how much weight you
propose to carry.

Quoted message said:

Garmin edge 705 cycle computer/GPS inc maps, cadence and heart rate
monitor; 010 00555-40;

Personally, I think the Edge is not a good buy; the range is targetted at
althletic cycle training not touring. Map software for Garmin is expensive,
though there are free alternatives.
You'd be better off with stand alone GPS navigation (probably still Garmin)
and simpler cycle computer.
And, (though I have no evidence on this) I would be concerned that a bike
assembly expert, such as Roberts, is not likely to also have the expertise
to advise properly on GPS systems.

Quoted message said:

a more-assertive-than-a-Brompton's bell;

Ask if you require. It will probably be heavy.

Quoted message said:

cranks - 170mm or will Mr Roberts advise?

They measure you and advise.

Quoted message said:

fit my spare CarryFreedom towing bracket;

Colour - all yellow. (for Hi-Viz - and that was what I ended up
painting the maroon Hercules I bought from Harrods 55 years ago)

You pick the colour. I don't think frame colour does much for Hi-Viz on the
road.

Quoted message said:

my name on the frame. (Security/Bling)

This is normal; mine has it.

Quoted message said:

Please suggest any changes I should consider; thank you, all.

This is my strongest recommendation:
Drop most of your technical list. Go in with a list of your RIDING plans
and what you currently ride, not a list of technical parts. Exception is
the saddle and a few basic statements of need - touring, rack, drop/flat
bars, lights, trailer bracket. If you are touring in remote places with
someone else, compatibility of spare parts might be a requirement. Let them
come back with a technical specification.

- Nigel

--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

Nigel Cliffe said:

This is my strongest recommendation:
Drop most of your technical list. Go in with a list of your RIDING plans
and what you currently ride, not a list of technical parts.

Having started off with one of the replies going through the technical
parts, I must say that on reflection I think the approach Nigel is
suggesting is actually a /much/ better idea.

Today I'm riding bikes I'd never have dreamed I'd own if I'd have just
stuck with the Dream Parts List approach I had in the past.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

KoolStop salmon brake blocks;

"Peter Clinch" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

Quoted message said:

You're kind of stuck with Magura blocks if you've got their brakes.
But IME they work well, and there's a choice of different flavours.

.... including KoolStop Salmon:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5300004276&N=Magura%20HS33%20Koolstop%20Pack%20Of%204%20Inserts

http://tinyurl.com/25b3mw

There are a few other choices - I think Fibrax make Magura-compatible pads,
for example - but most of them are trials-oriented.

James Thomson

"Nigel Cliffe" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

Quoted message said:

By all means ask about hydraulics, though (AFAIK) you won't
get them with integrated drop-bar levers!

In the 1990s, EDCO came out with a racing group that featured Magura HS77
calipers, and indexed gear shifters integrated into the hoods. They never
caught on, and I've only ever seen one set (in a little bike shop at
Bouc-Bel-Air near Aix - they may still have them).

Kelly Take-Offs are one way of putting indexed shifters on (well, near) the
brake hoods:

http://www.kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html

To be honest, I'm not thrilled with the ergonomics, but they're an option.

James Thomson

James Thomson wrote:
[blocks available for Maggies]

Quoted message said:

... including KoolStop Salmon:

Quoted message said:

There are a few other choices - I think Fibrax make Magura-compatible pads,
for example - but most of them are trials-oriented.

Thanks, I (obviously!) didn't realise that. Though I've got a supply of
standard black ones that I will be working through for a while yet and
they seem to work okay.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

James Thomson said:

"Nigel Cliffe" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

Quoted message said:

By all means ask about hydraulics, though (AFAIK) you won't
get them with integrated drop-bar levers!

In the 1990s, EDCO came out with a racing group that featured Magura
HS77 calipers, and indexed gear shifters integrated into the hoods.
They never caught on, and I've only ever seen one set (in a little
bike shop at Bouc-Bel-Air near Aix - they may still have them).

Kelly Take-Offs are one way of putting indexed shifters on (well,
near) the brake hoods:

http://www.kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html

To be honest, I'm not thrilled with the ergonomics, but they're an
option.

Old Suntour Commander shifters are a superior alternative to the Kelly, and
the Suntour ergonomics actually works !
My tourer runs a set, circa 1990, and I think they ceased making them in the
early 90's. They appear very occaisionally on Ebay. 7-speed indexed rear
(works with Shimano spacing), with option to swap to friction shifting, and
3-speed friction front.

- Nigel

--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/