Hello!
It seems that among the range of wheel sets offered by the various
manufacturers, the heavier and cheaper wheels sets can get to the
point where it might make more sense to consider simply using
conventional wheels?
For conventional wheels, I've been considering using, what for me, are
proven standards; namely Mavic Open Pro rims or the slightly heavier
CXP33. I've looked at the Alex rims, and am again a little bewildered
at their abundant selection. However, when reading 'the fine print',
none of the Alex rims seem much better then either of these Mavic rims
-- the Open Pro, or the CXP 33?
Are there any particular redeeming qualities about Alex rims, that's
worth considering?
As for hubs, I'd like to go with a hub fitted out with sealed
bearings, and preferably drilled with the standard 36 holes. I've
considered the Campagnolo Record hub set, the same one used in the
Chorus lineup; but don't want to be playing around with loose ball
bearings.
In the past, I've used Phil Woods hubs on my touring bike, and am very
happy with the fact that unlike other wheels, those built with Phil
Wood hubs use spokes of the same length, as the hub flange is adjusted
to accommodate this outcome; and therefore produces a wheel with very
little dish to it. In the end, it's stronger, supposedly? Normally,
the spokes on the drive side of the wheel are a little shorter, and
under higher tension then the non-drive side. This isn't the case for
wheels with Phil Woods hubs, which in turn makes them stronger over
all.
One drawback of these Phil Woods hubs is their weight; so I'm
considering using DT Swiss hubs. Another is that the splines on the
freewheel body will only accommodate Shimano cog sets, not
Campagnolo. Therefore, the spacing is out of alignment with the
indexing in the shifter, if the wheel is in the frame, and expected to
work with the drivetrain of the competing manufacturer.
One work around to this is to get what Wheels Manufacturing calls, a
'conversion kit' that allows you to use wheels, normally specific to
Shimano because of these splines, and the spacing between the cogs, on
Campagnolo setups. In effect, all this is, is a Shimano cog set, with
Campagnolo spacers between the individuial cogs. However, I'm a
little reluctant to use this solution because the actual shape of the
individual teeth on a Campagnolo cog set may be different from that of
a Shimano one.
Can anyone confirm this for me, one way or other?
And if so, how much does it affect the shifting?
Does anyone have anything, good or bad, to say about DT Swiss hubs?
I've noticed that with the DT Swiss hubs, they're only available with
a maximum of 32 hole drilling, not what I'd prefer, 36. To compensate
for this shortcoming, I was considering using double butted, aero
spokes, namely the DT Swiss Aerolite.
Would building up a set of 32 or 36 spoke, cross three, set of wheels,
not be the situation to use aero spokes?
In the past, I've great improvements in wheels that have been built
using double butted, as opposed to straight gauge, spokes.
Would the fact that the spokes, as I've proposed here, make for a
stronger, lighter and faster wheel?
Or, are aero spokes better used in radially laced wheels, or those
wheels with perhaps only one or two crosses in the spoke lacing
patter?
I've had great success over the years with DT Swis spokes, but other
than Sapim, are their other brands of spokes worth considering?
What if any other brands of rims are worth considering?
...now, I really did blather on, in this message, didn't I?
Bill
p.s. Given present limitations, returning to this Usenet group is
difficult. Therefore, can I ask that thoughtful and insightful
suggestions, should you have any to offer, please directed to this e-
mail address, or this one: [email hidden]