A couple of questions

"Jeff" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Howdy.

I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get
groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car).

I started checking out my LBSs last Saturday - lots of really nice gear.
My birthday is next month, so I'm aiming for a purchase in the latter part
of March.

Anyway, I'd like some opinions on a couple of things that LBS guys have
told me.

1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if you
want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about 7%
difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any
experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD?

Doesn't make any difference. Appropriate tires for foul / cold weather
commuting readily available in 26" or 700c. I have 26" because I require
such a small frame, it's easier to make the geometry right with smaller
wheels, otherwise it doesn't matter.

Quoted message said:

2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems
plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments?

Disc brakes add unnecessary cost and complexity. Rim brakes work great for
commuting in the rain.

Quoted message said:

A final question:

3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and
such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much [censored]
off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to cause
problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])?

I really like my internal hub in any weather. Low maintenance, very
reliable, easy shifting, evenly spaced ratios between gears. I've heard of
Rohloff hubs requiring thinner oil in very cold conditions. My Rohloff
works fine at 20 degrees F, haven't tried it in colder temperatures.

BobT

Jeff said:

Howdy.

Quoted message said:

I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get
groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car).

The quality you need most in a commuter bike is reliability. The
component that is most likely to give you problems is tires. Get the most
nearly bulletproof tires you can: Kevlar, armor strips, Slime, etc.
The second most vulnerable parts on a commuter bike are the rims. Get
double-strength. I got front shocks on my bike, and have not had the
problem with dented rims that I had on its predecessor. It sounds like
you live in an are where potholes are a real menace.
Spokes too. Get a good enough bike to have good wheels. Do not settle
for a cheap bike! (Cf. the innumerable discussions of what [censored] Huffys
(et al) are on this group.)
I have rim brakes, and find that they only lose stopping power in
extremely wet conditions. When that happens (rarely in my semi-arid
environment), I make a point of "riding" my brakes: applying them lightly
before I need them so that the shoes can wipe most of the water from the
rims.
I have derailleur shifters, and they work fine down to about 20F.
Chill factors, for the record, do not affect mechanical parts, but are a
measurement of the effect of wind/bike speed and cold on exposed flesh.
A -40 chill factor is a possible hazard to your nose and ears, but not
necessarily to your bike.
Another hazard you may face is theft, depending on where you intend to
ride. How fancy a bike are you willing to risk losing?
You might also want to google past discussions on this ng regarding the
hauling of cargo: panniers, baskets, trailers, etc. (I'm a trailer man,
myself.)
Where do you live that's so cold and wet?

Bill

__o | Get a bicycle. You will not regret it, if you live.
_`\(,_ |
(_)/ (_) | -- Mark Twain

Bob Taylor said:

"Jeff" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Howdy.

I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get
groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car).

I started checking out my LBSs last Saturday - lots of really nice gear.
My birthday is next month, so I'm aiming for a purchase in the latter part
of March.

Anyway, I'd like some opinions on a couple of things that LBS guys have
told me.

1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if you
want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about 7%
difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any
experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD?

Doesn't make any difference. Appropriate tires for foul / cold weather
commuting readily available in 26" or 700c. I have 26" because I require
such a small frame, it's easier to make the geometry right with smaller
wheels, otherwise it doesn't matter.

You will likely need a power meter to notice the difference in rolling
resistance between the two sizes (assuming similar tires).

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems
plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments?

Disc brakes add unnecessary cost and complexity. Rim brakes work great for
commuting in the rain.

Rim brakes are lousy for stopping in the snow. Rim brakes also chew up
the rims in wet weather, even with high quality pads. Longer rim life
will eventually offset the higher cost of hub brakes (assuming quality
rims that do not fail prematurely from cracking).

Drum brakes require less maintenance than discs, and are much less
attractive to thieves. The stopping power and modulation of drum brakes
should be adequate for commuter use.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

A final question:

3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and
such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much [censored]
off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to cause
problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])?

I really like my internal hub in any weather. Low maintenance, very
reliable, easy shifting, evenly spaced ratios between gears. I've heard of
Rohloff hubs requiring thinner oil in very cold conditions. My Rohloff
works fine at 20 degrees F, haven't tried it in colder temperatures.

Derailers can also freeze up, particularly when covered in snow or water
that freezes. An internal hub gear would be expected to be more reliable
in winter use.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 19:21:05 -0600, Jeff <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Howdy.

I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get
groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car).

I started checking out my LBSs last Saturday - lots of really nice gear.
My birthday is next month, so I'm aiming for a purchase in the latter
part of March.

Anyway, I'd like some opinions on a couple of things that LBS guys have
told me.

1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if
you want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about
7% difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any
experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD?

I rode a commuter-ized MTB, with 26" X 1.4" slicks, for several years
before switching back to a touring bike with 700C X 28mm tires. The
MTB has a bit more upright position than the tourer with moustache
bars. The fatter tires are more forgiving in slop and sand.

Quoted message said:

2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems
plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments?

I've never had disc brakes either. I do have a bike with drum brakes.
The major advantage of hub brakes over rim brakes is rim wear. Drum
brakes aren't as finicky as disc or rim brakes when it comes time to
replace the wheel after fixing a flat in the windy raining cold dark.

Quoted message said:

A final question:

3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and
such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much [censored]
off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to
cause problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])?

Problems with any kind of shifting in cold weather is usually due to
the cable control icing and becoming immovable rather than the
lubricant solidifying.

My "ice" bike, with studded tires, is a single speed with no fenders.
When it comes time to replace the tires on the MTB commuter I'll do
it with a tire that has some tread so it's not useless after the
first sprinklings of snow. I'll continue riding the 700C bike for its
better aerodynamics, less rolling resistance and lighter weight.

Both were built from cast-offs plus new and used parts totalling less
than $350 each. (most of that is absorbed by new Crank Bros pedals
and Brooks saddles)

There is a boom in bikes designated "city bikes". Primarily they're
European and have evolved to provide comfortable reliable
transportation over relatively short flat distances, in all weather,
day or night, while dressed like a normal human being.

Tires, lights, weather protection and reliability are of paramount
importance in a commuter that's going to see daily use.

If you consistency show up late or call in with bike problems you're
presenting a bad example to your co-workers. Most cycling commuters
have fewer sick days and are usually on-time when weather or traffic
conditions are delaying their co-workers.

Cars are coffins.
--
zk

Quoted message said:

1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if
you want to cover more than a few miles.

The selection of tires in each size is the biggest difference. The
same make & model in 700s will be thinner than it is available in
26s. Many of the 700s will be way too thin for you and many of the
26s will be way too wide. For regular commuting on mostly paved
surfaces I like x28 or x32 in the 700 and 26x1 or 1&1/4, for some
reason these seem to be considered unusually skinny for 26s and
horribly wide for 700s at most LBSes.

Quoted message said:

2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems
plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments?

I break a lot of spokes ('cause I'm way over the load limit for my
bike?-) and when I have to ride home with a wheel outta true and the
brake unhooked I think disc brakes would be really cool. But I
suspect that at the end of the day the disc brakes would be way more
maintenance than the broken spokes are (and I'm still overloaded so
I'm still breaking spokes). Drum or coaster brakes like we used back
in the day would certainly get 'er done, but is there an infernally
gear hub with brakes too?

Quoted message said:

3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and
such). wow, knock yourself out. get yerself a little propane heater and a front rack, bungie the heater to the rack and let the wind blow hot air on ya. Or move, why you wanna live in that stuff anyway?

I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much [censored]

Quoted message said:

off the gearing as possible. Right, but you're still gonna have to clean that chain. Schwinn has been teaing me with a shaft drive bike for sometime... it never seems to make it to the dealers but it's always on their web site.

Quoted message said:

Jeff said:

Howdy.

Quoted message said:

I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get
groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car).

The quality you need most in a commuter bike is reliability. The
component that is most likely to give you problems is tires. Get the most
nearly bulletproof tires you can: Kevlar, armor strips, Slime, etc.
The second most vulnerable parts on a commuter bike are the rims. Get
double-strength. I got front shocks on my bike, and have not had the
problem with dented rims that I had on its predecessor. It sounds like
you live in an are where potholes are a real menace.
Spokes too. Get a good enough bike to have good wheels. Do not settle
for a cheap bike! (Cf. the innumerable discussions of what [censored] Huffys
(et al) are on this group.)
I have rim brakes, and find that they only lose stopping power in
extremely wet conditions. When that happens (rarely in my semi-arid
environment), I make a point of "riding" my brakes: applying them lightly
before I need them so that the shoes can wipe most of the water from the
rims.
I have derailleur shifters, and they work fine down to about 20F.
Chill factors, for the record, do not affect mechanical parts, but are a
measurement of the effect of wind/bike speed and cold on exposed flesh.
A -40 chill factor is a possible hazard to your nose and ears, but not
necessarily to your bike.
Another hazard you may face is theft, depending on where you intend to
ride. How fancy a bike are you willing to risk losing?
You might also want to google past discussions on this ng regarding the
hauling of cargo: panniers, baskets, trailers, etc. (I'm a trailer man,
myself.)
Where do you live that's so cold and wet?

Bill

__o | Get a bicycle. You will not regret it, if you live.
_`\(,_ |
(_)/ (_) | -- Mark Twain

Winnipeg.

Not terribly wet, per se, although in the spring, when the snow is
melting, there is plenty of wet.

I'm hoping to be able to cycle year round with the right kit. I'm
currently using a very beat up MTB, which I purchased used for about
$100. I'm looking for something that:
- fits me better
- comes equipped for commuting, getting groceries, etc

Currently I'm leaning towards a Giant Tran Sport as it really appears to
be designed with cargo in mind at a reasonable price. We'll see. I've
only just started looking.

I don't usually ride / park the bike in bad areas or at night. Still,
I'm trying to keep the price (and hence the risk) reasonable.

Jeff

....

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and
such). wow, knock yourself out. get yerself a little propane heater and a front rack, bungie the heater to the rack and let the wind blow hot air on ya. Or move, why you wanna live in that stuff anyway?

....

Actually, it is not bad if you dress properly (most people don't because
it doesn't look fashionable (like frostbite is fashionable?).

I've walked to work all winter (beater bike just isn't up to it) with
windchill as low as -46C. I usually arrive sweating (with a "t", not an
"r"😉.

I've not been late once, regardless of the road conditions.

I've saved at least $140 in parking each month.

Jeff

Jeff said:

Howdy.

I'm looking for a new commuter bike (go to work, go to church, get
groceries - in short, to the extent practical, displace my car).

I started checking out my LBSs last Saturday - lots of really nice
gear. My birthday is next month, so I'm aiming for a purchase in the
latter part of March.

Anyway, I'd like some opinions on a couple of things that LBS guys
have told me.

1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if
you want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only
about 7% difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to
me. Any experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD?

It's not the wheel size. It's (a) the typical tires used for each size, and
(b) the typical road geometry of a 700 versus the typical off-road (slower)
geometry of a 26 inch. The tires can be overcome in one direction -- you
can put high pressure, narrow slicks on a 26 inch, but you can't put
knobbies on a 700 (frame not wide enough, usually).

Personally, I ride 26 inch wheels in the winter with wide tires, for several
reasons.

First of all, it's dark a lot. There are plenty of things to pay attention
to in the dark. As a result, I'm more likely to hit small potholes, road
cracks or other minor things. A wider tire can handle these easier.

Second, a 26 inch bike handles studded tires much more easily (because these
are wider).

Third, I hate changing tires in the cold and dark. More rubber = fewer
flats, ceteris paribus.

You are quite correct that riding a road bike would be faster. Life's full
of tradeoffs. My tradeoffs aren't necessarily the same ones you'd make.

Quoted message said:

2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems
plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments?

A final question:

3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow
and such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as
much [censored] off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures
likely to cause problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on
cars here])?

See "derailleur freeze" thread currently on this newsgroup -- or ask on the
icebike list (via www.icebike.com). I have no direct experience, but I do
know there are dissatisfied winter internal hub owners. As Zoot says, if
it's the cable that's the problem, an internal hub won't help.

The icebike site also offers some hints that at -40 you might want to
replace grease in the bearings with oil; it doesn't get that cold in Chicago
(all-time record is -26F) so I've never tried this.

Quoted message said:

Jeff

--
Mike Kruger
Say not always what you know, but always know what you say.
Claudius; 10 BC-AD 54, Roman Emperor

Jeff said:

1. 28 inch wheels (okay, 700s) are much better than 26 inch wheels if
you want to cover more than a few miles. Given that there's only about
7% difference in circumference, this seems like a stretch to me. Any
experience, opinion, conjecture, FUD?

2. Disc brakes are way better for stopping in the rain. This seems
plausible to me. I've never had disc brakes on a bike. Comments?

A final question:

3. I hope to ride in the winter (that means -40 windchill and snow and
such). I like the idea of an internally geared hub to keep as much [censored]
off the gearing as possible. Are really cold temperatures likely to
cause problems (grease freezing, for example [it happens on cars here])?

Ride safely

Jeff

Yes, Yes and Yes. ( realy cold temperatures are likely to cause major
problems with Freewheels and Freehubs, have them prepped if you mean to
ride at -40C )