Bike buying advice · Public discussion

A Bike Dilemma - can you help? Bike - can I have

Started by SmokieJoe · · Last activity · 4 posts · 2,788 views

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Bike buying advice
Published
17 November 2009
Last activity
23 November 2009
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SmokieJoe
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  1. Hi Folks,
    I’m looking to buy a new bike.
    I’m a 35 year old with a multisport background getting back on the bike after some time on and off over the last two years. (The odd mountain bike expedition and sprint distance triathlon/time trial excluded).
    I use a regular road bike for training and racing. It is a BH, Aluminium frame and basic entry level gear. Many of the teeth on the crank, rear derailleur etc are worn and broken so I need some level of durability as this only happened after 3,000 miles at best. The rear wheel is also a little knackered at this stage but will get me through most of the winter, or until I get a new bike.
    I also use a turbo trainer.
    Long cycle at the weekend was 3 to4 hours in past, but is likely to only be 2 hrs plus for the next while, until I get back in shape.
    Weight is not a big issue in the bike (I could do with loosing a stone). Comfort is a bigger issue as most of my riding is training.
    Races in the future will be triathlons, longer slower events (not races) and training.

    Anyways, my delimma is as follows. I have narrowed my choice down to two bikes with less than €100 in price difference.

    I can get an aluminium frame with carbon front forks, with mainly ultegra groupset, (Trek 2.5 (2010 version)). Or a full carbon bike with mainly 105 groupset,. (Trek Madone 2.4)

    In light of my background/use, what would you recommend?
    Comfort is important. Is carbon necessarily better for this?
    How about durability? I don’t want to be faced with knackered cogs/frame after a couple of winters riding.
    I would be obliged for any other comments or ideas.

    Many thanks.

    FYI, The following is the spec on each bike.

    (Trek 2.5 (2010 version)). Specification:
    Frameset
    Sizes 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm
    Frame Alpha Black Aluminum
    Fork Bontrager Race, carbon; SpeedTrap compatible
    Wheels
    Wheels Bontrager Race
    Tires Bontrager Race Lite, 700x23c
    Drivetrain
    Shifters Shimano Ultegra STI, 10 speed
    Front Derailleur Shimano Ultegra
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Ultegra
    Crank Shimano Ultegra 50/34 or 50/39/30
    Cassette Shimano 105 11-25 or 12-27 (triple), 10 speed
    Pedals n/a
    Components
    Saddle Bontrager R2
    Seat Post Bontrager Carbon
    Handlebars Bontrager Race VR, 31.8mm
    Stem Bontrager Race Lite, 7 degree, 31.8mm
    Headset Aheadset w/semi-cartridge bearings, integrated, sealed, alloy
    Brakeset Shimano Ultegra w/Shimano Ultegra STI levers

    Or a full carbon bike with mainly 105 groupset,. (Trek Madone 2.4)
    Sizes 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm
    Frame TCT Carbon,
    DuoTrap compatible
    Fork Bontrager Race Lite, carbon w/E2 aluminum steerer
    Wheels
    Wheels Bontrager SSR
    Tires Bontrager Race Lite, 700x23c
    Drivetrain
    Shifters Shimano 105 STI, 10 speed
    Front Derailleur Shimano 105
    Rear Derailleur Shimano 105
    Crank Shimano R-600 50/34
    Cassette Shimano 105 12-27, 10 speed
    Pedals n/a
    Components
    Saddle Bontrager R1
    Seat Post Bontrager Carbon
    Handlebars Bontrager SSR VR, 31.8mm
    Stem Bontrager Race Lite, 7 degree, 31.8mm
    Headset Aheadset w/cartridge bearings, integrated, sealed, alloy; 1-1/8" top, 1.5" bottom Brakeset Shimano Tiagra w/Shimano 105 STI levers

  2. Would you be better off looking at triathlon specific bikes as this is what your looking at doing?? They can make a fair bit of difference over the longer distance races, not so much on the shorter ones though???

    If not can you test ride both those bikes?? Then just choose the one that feels the most comfortable for you. Both group sets are reliable, carbon vs aluminium is a personal thing

  3. FWIW. Before you buy a new bike, buy some new chainrings + pulley wheels for your rear derailleur ... maybe, a new chain + new cassette, too.

    THEN, learn how to clean your bike after each ride BECAUSE the chainrings & pulley wheels should have lasted longer ... so, presumably, you are letting grit accumulate on the chain/cogs/chainrings & thereby causing their premature demise.

    AFTER you learn how to take care of your current bike, then you'll be ready to spend money on whatever type of bike you want to get ...

    BECAUSE, if you don't learn how to keep your bike's drivetrain clean, then you will find that your next bike will probably self-destruct beneath you as quickly as your current bike has.

    BTW. So-called "entry level" bikes are often more robust (less fragile) than more expensive bikes.

  4. Yep! Thanks for that.
    I discovered the grit problem after it was too late.
    It seems a wash down with the hose after each winter session is not enough........

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