So, what tools will I need?

The closed end bottom bracket tools are slightly better than the open-end ones, because in the rare event that you have a BB that's very stubborn to remove, the full ones have a better grip. Ribble, Wiggle or Chain Reaction should have one. Here's the Park one at Chain Reaction

chainreactioncycles.comModels.aspxOpen ↗

do you have a stand? I don't have a stand but I have a trainer so I put the wheels on and put the bike in the trainer and it works out well.

The wheels will come assembled obviously but will they have been trued at the factory? are they machine built or handbuilt. some would say just take the wheels to the LBS for a once over and let them true and adjust tension, it's inexpensive and their experience will make it worthwhile. I didn't read the other thread so I don't konw what kind of bike your getting but if your getting anything with Carbon, you probably want to get some carbon assembly past and consider a torque wrench. some would say use a torgue wrench regardless of what type of frame for things like the bottom bracket.

Thank you much!

Is this what I'll need for installing the cassette:

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Freewheels/dp/B001B6RGXG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1297878026&sr=1-1

Jason

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by Motobecane [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

do you have a stand? I don't have a stand but I have a trainer so I put the wheels on and put the bike in the trainer and it works out well.

The wheels will come assembled obviously but will they have been trued at the factory? are they machine built or handbuilt. some would say just take the wheels to the LBS for a once over and let them true and adjust tension, it's inexpensive and their experience will make it worthwhile. I didn't read the other thread so I don't konw what kind of bike your getting but if your getting anything with Carbon, you probably want to get some carbon assembly past and consider a torque wrench. some would say use a torgue wrench regardless of what type of frame for things like the bottom bracket.

Yes, I already have a stand (and a trainer).

The bike is titanium, and I do have a couple torque wrenches. I'm assuming the wheels will be hand built by Mark or one of his associates at Habanero Cycles, so I'm fairly certain they'll be in good shape. Once I get the bike together, I'll give the wheels a quick spin and look for obvious out-of-true, and a quick feel on the spokes as well.

Jason

I did my first full build (sourced from mostly Ebay parts) last September, it only required:

1. Hacksaw and vise, to cut fork
2. Short length of PVC tube and block of wood to smack it, for the crown race
3. Dremel with cutoff wheel - to cut cables and clean up the fork tube cut
4. Cassette tool
5. Bottom bracket tool - park BBT-XX (depends on bracket type)
6. Allen wrenches
7. Grease
8. Chain tool

Other items that are handy but not required:

9. Workstand
10. Scrap cable, to put in the cable housing while cutting
11. Plumb bob, to line up the handlebars perfectly
12. Level, for seat adjustments
13. Tape measure
14. Thread locker
15. Shop towels
16. Copper wire (14 and 12 gauge solid core) to assist in routing cables in the handlebars.

The cassette, bottom bracket and chain tools are really the only job specific items required.

You just mentioned it is a titanium frame. In this case I would definitely recommend some sort of anti-seize on any mating surface between the frame and any other type of metal (eg at the BB threads and where an Al seatpost touches frame). A copper based grease is usually okay but Finish Line sells an anti-seize (unsure of contents) which should work too. Some normal/assembly grease for other threads (non-Ti) is a good idea too.

You may also need a means to cut the steerer to the right length (if that is not already done).

Enjoy.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by tafi [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

You just mentioned it is a titanium frame. In this case I would definitely recommend some sort of anti-seize on any threads or if you are using an aluminium seat post. A copper based grease is usually okay.

Thanks--that's some good info to know. I actually already have some copper anti-seize in my repertoire, but I would not have thought of using it. I do intend (good intentions pave...) to do regular maintenance on this bike, so regular disassembly might have prevented galling and seizing, but....

Jason

Have you considered buying a kit. I have had good luck with Nashbar tools and they are much more cost effective than Park. Nashbar sells individual tools and a few sets.
nashbar.comProduct 10053 10052 126943 1 201492 10000 202586Open ↗

Oh yeah, a set of t-handle Allen tools make life a bit easier, especially for clamping the levers to the bars.
I wish I had some 20 years ago

[IMG]cyclingforums.com500Open ↗[/IMG]

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by maydog [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Other items that are handy but not required:

14. Thread locker

Per Shimano's install notes, thread locker is required for brake caliper installation. It's probably not really necessary but if things like that come loose at speed you'll probably be wishing that you'd done it... but at that point it's a wee bit late. At a minimum physical pain normally follows. Financial pain may also be felt when the wounds heal. FSA recommend it on some of their cranks and there's probably a fair few carbon items that recommend it in their installation notes for any applications where there's low torque required for the bolts.

Anti seize compound is way cheaper at a car parts store. You can get the $0.99 little packets that's in the spark plug section that'll be more than enough for one build or a near lifetime supply for $4.

If your frame/seatpost combo recommends it, there is some slightly abrasive assembly goo/paste that aids with possible seatpost slipping. Never used the stuff personally but apparently it's worked wonders for some. Zinn rambles on about the stuff almost every other month on Velonews.com in the readers letters. Do readers really ask that one question so many times?

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by 531Aussie [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Oh yeah, a set of t-handle Allen tools make life a bit easier, especially for clamping the levers to the bars.
I wish I had some 20 years ago

[IMG]cyclingforums.com500Open ↗[/IMG]

Just imagine the frame trashing torque you could apply with those bad boys...

One handy tool that should be on the list of items to have if there's a carbon frame involved - a torque wrench and some nice allen key sockets.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by swampy1970 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Just imagine the frame trashing torque you could apply with those bad boys...

Ha! When I put together my first bike a long, long time ago, I managed to crumple the steel seat tube with the front derailleur clamp, and crack the rear derailleur by clamping the cable too tight. :-) Oh yeah, another time, with the same bike, when the inner chainring rubbed on the chain stay, rather than getting a wider BB axle, I crumpled the stay with a multigrip.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by 531Aussie [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Ha! When I put together my first bike a long, long time ago, I managed to crumple the steel seat tube with the front derailleur clamp, and crack the rear derailleur by clamping the cable too tight. :-) Oh yeah, another time, with the same bike, when the inner chainring rubbed on the chain stay, rather than getting a wider BB axle, I crumpled the stay with a multigrip.

Aussie your tale reminds me of my sons early attemps of being a bike mechanic. He used a 12" adjustable wrench to tighten his stem. He left the wrench for me to find on the lawn with the mower.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by davereo [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Aussie your tale reminds me of my sons early attemps of being a bike mechanic. He used a 12" adjustable wrench to tighten his stem. He left the wrench for me to find on the lawn with the mower.

Yeeeouch!!