Bike buying advice · Public discussion

New spin on the old "entry level road bike thread"

Started by DRV9 · · Last activity · 2 posts · 1,948 views

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Bike buying advice
Published
11 July 2011
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12 July 2011
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DRV9
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  1. Hello - I am a former competitive cyclist, now clean and sober x16-18 years. Spent that time commuting on old British beasts, experimenting with recumbents and other unsavory things. I am now months into a relapse and the ol 82 Motobecane is not getting the job done. Tuning, new ratios, new brakes, new saddle made it more pleasant to ride but that's all. Time for a NEW BIKE. The good news: I can afford a New Bike. Bad news: I can only now (and I need it now) afford an entry level NEW BIKE. My budget is 600-900. Ugggh. So, I have checked out all the usual suspects - Raleigh Ravenio and Specialized Allez base are decent bikes. After being gone so long, I am surprised how accessible very light, stiff framesets are these days, so that's good. However, [THIS IS MY SPECIFIC QUESTION] - all the bikes I have looked at would require some mild mods to have what I consider a proper road geometry (they are all too upright). Is there any road bike sold at the above price point (that can be bought from a bicycle shop with test rides, not out of someone's basement in texas) that actually anticipates the existence of somebody who WANTS a real road bike, knows how to ride said bike, but simply doesn't have a lot of money? And don't say used. I bought a gorgeous used Bianchi with full Campy and it was wrecked. My wife blames it on downtube shifters, I blame it on the drunk idiot who ran me over. In any case, used is off the books and the settlement from above-mentioned driver will buy above bike. So which of the two would you recommend? Or others? Keeping in mind my ship is likely to come in in 2-3 years, so whichever might be better at converting to a light-to-medium duty touring rig (I would think the Raleigh) might win the day, since that's I would probably do with it once able to satisfy myself buying one of these light, stiff, aerodynamic, responsive, helium-filled carbon miracles they currently call "bicycles." Speaking of which, it's never too early to start planning - something light, stiff but still aero - standard set-up suitable for use in a group race or alone (ie not a TT or tri bike) - I am looking at Scott, Cervelo, Specialized. Other ideas?

    THX

  2. Quoted post said:

    Originally Posted by DRV9 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

    I can only now (and I need it now) afford an entry level NEW BIKE. My budget is 600-900. Ugggh.

    <snip>

    ... all the bikes I have looked at would require some mild mods to have what I consider a proper road geometry (they are all too upright). Is there any road bike sold at the above price point (that can be bought from a bicycle shop with test rides, not out of someone's basement in texas) that actually anticipates the existence of somebody who WANTS a real road bike, knows how to ride said bike, but simply doesn't have a lot of money?


    FWIW. Well, if you can DIY, then I think you should just cobble together the components to create a suitable bike ...

    Here's an example of a bike which I cobbled together with spare parts back in 2007 (the ISIS crank was subsequently replaced with an 118mm Octalink BB & crankset [almost retro, but still my preferred BB-type], the RACEFACE seatpost was replaced with a KORE seatpost, etc.):

    [CENTER] [IMG]cyclingforums.com500[/IMG][/CENTER]

    The only parts which could not be readily transferred to another Road frame are the rear wheel which has 135mm spacing + the slightly longer BB spindle that would normally be used for a Triple which was needed for the outer chainring & arms to clear the stays (and, if the Q-factor isn't a big deal, then the longer BB spindle could be used on a subsequent Road frame -- personally, I think Q-factor is over-rated for the average rider).

    A long reach (49mm-59mm) caliper was needed for the rear brake (after enlarging the nut side of the "fender" mounting hole) ... different frames may need an even longer reach caliper.

    The particular frame is an old Mongoose Hardtail frame which I wasn't using ...

    • Of course, YOU wouldn't need to use a Hardtail frame, but they are available & relatively inexpensive.

    I reckon that the fork changes the head tube angle to 73º, or certainly within a few arc seconds of thereof.

    • IMO, the head tube angle + fork are the most critical parts of a frame's geometry with regard to how it will handle ...

    The virtual top tube on the pictured frame is ~56cm ... 54.5mm to 55mm is my preferred top tube length, so I used a slightly shorter stem ...

    • just choose the frame whose virtual top tube length is appropriate for you and/or adjust the length with the stem & bars whose reach suits YOUR needs

    The longer chain stays do not adversely affect the handling ... at least, IMO, not on mountain roads ...

    • Tandems have a MUCH LONGER wheelbase, and I think that a good captain can handle a Tandem in most types of non-Crit conering as well, or certainly almost as well, as most riders can handle a regular cornering situation

    The shorter seat stays certainly keep the rear triangle tight.

    The BB drop isn't an issue for me, but it may be for you.

    As pictured, the bike weighs about 19 lbs. A similar configuration with a CF Hardtail frame could probably be a pound lighter ...

    • more recent Hardtail frames probably won't have cantilever brake bosses, of course
    • I would file the brake bosses off, but I figure that I might as well leave the option of rebuilding the bike with 26" wheels

    Configured with slightly better components could reduce the weight further by a few ounces ... it could easily be made heavier with a different fork, etc.

    So, I recommend you consider buying a set of non-Xenon-based (i.e., non-QS unless they are Chorus or Record) 10-speed Campagnolo shifters + Shimano 10-speed rear derailleur + 9-speed Shimano front derailleur + 9-speed Shimano cassette with the range which suits your riding needs ...

    [CENTER] [IMG]cyclingforums.com500[/IMG][/CENTER]

    FYI. I think that I could construct a similar bike with NEW components for $900US (or, were you talking about Euros or BPs?) without too much effort; so, if you can DIY then you can, too!

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