Hello all, I am fairly new to the cycling community and the sport in general. Recently my fiance and I purchased a pair of Fuji Absolute 3.0 bikes from Performance Bike. These are hybrid flat bar bikes with rigid suspension. We love these bikes and they are perfect for exercise (I am trying to lose another 30 lbs), riding around town doing errands, playing ingress, etc... However, the more I ride the more I want to ride. I am really wanting to get into road cycling. I have been to a couple shops and they all tell me to just buy a built bike as it is cheaper to build a pre-built than to build your own. Now I am sure that is true to an extent, if you know what parts you want I think you would end up narrowing it down to a couple bikes at best and even then you would probably be replacing something or other. I am very mechanically inclined; the last couple years I spend building a 420 HP Mazda Miata Race Car. I really enjoy turning wrenches and getting to know my gear to be honest. Let's say I can put away (spend on deals that pop up) $200 a month the next 12 months; would that build me a pretty nice bike? My biggest concern is picking a frame/fork combo without being able to ride it first. I think the rest of the items (save the saddle) you can pretty much trust reviews on; Drive train, Wheels, Brakes, etc... Is this just a dumb idea? I could probably squeeze out $250 a month if I needed too. Also given my 1 year time frame, I can wait for sales on items. Any and all advise is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ray
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Is building a bike worth it?
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- Theque
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About 20 years ago all the smart kids were building their own computers. At the time I had a case with power supply lying around, so I thought, why the hell not? After waiting two months for a cpu from a shady ebay dealer, I got it together and it ran. But I learned that Intel graphics boards didn't play nicely with system boards that were compatible with AMD processors, and by the time the whole project was finished I could have bought a running computer with a warranty and OS for a lot less.
The lesson is, don't start a project with which you have no experience without a template. Your Miata racer had a template, a stock Miata. Granted, a bicycle is a lot less complicated than a Miata, but unless price is no object, or you have a secret line on parts, or you already have the parts, and you're ready to crawl out of a few holes, and you're in no hurry to ride the thing, you're better off buying a bike.
Buy the bike whose characteristics and specs most closely match your needs and preferences, and ride it a couple thousand miles. Then replace the worn parts and the ones that you now know don't fit you. There's your project.
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Excellent advice. I really like the way you put it. We purchased the Miata because it was a cheap car we could modify. We clearly did not build it from scratch such as I suggested with the bike. Ok, with that said and assuming the goal were to slowly upgrade, what should I be looking for as far as "good bones"? Would used be a good starting point? Given as much as we were replacing on the Miata we purchased used.
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Short answer is no...
A new bike with a Tiagra groupset is something like 1000euro (probably cheaper over there).
A complete Tiagra groupset is something like 500euro. If you were even to buy every single other component from frame to cables you would end up paying something like 1300 euro and the bike would not have a warranty for the total, but you would need to track 6 different warranties.
Bikes do break alot so it's not a bad idea to have a warranty.
But, if you have a pair of let's say, Ultegra shifters around, which cost something like 500euro for the pair new, then buying a frame and the rest and putting some work might make sense.
Assembling a bike is not really such a time consuming project. If you have a torque wrench and a few allen keys you can probably assemble 6 a day...
Some good advice might be:
-Get a 10 speed drivetrain. There are lots of options for cassettes and since these are now replaced with 11 speed in the higher end ranges you might find some good deals.
-Get a drop bar frame. Racer, Cyclocross or Endurance or maybe even slightly aero depending on the use you are planning.
-Get Aluminium for less money and a bit more crash-proof performance, Carbon for racing, Steel for long life etc...
There are complete bikes which vary so slightly between them that can probably suit any specification. Again due to warranty and general quality issues, might be good to get something from a well known and nice company.
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I don't know how it works in Europe, but in the US, only the frameset is warrantied by the manufacturer. The components are warrantied by their manufacturer (Shimano/SRAM/Campy) and the same with the wheels. So it makes no difference on a build vs. complete bike, warranty-wise.
Not sure what a Tiagra group runs for over here. A 10 speed Microshift Arris, which is actually a pretty decent group, runs about $300 US.
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It's the same here, but I had a bike being handled by the frames manufacturer for a fault in an internal hub.
The manual was something like -so many years- warranty on the frame and -so many years- warranty on the components.
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Quoted post said:
Originally Posted by Theque
Ok, with that said and assuming the goal were to slowly upgrade, what should I be looking for as far as "good bones"? Would used be a good starting point? Given as much as we were replacing on the Miata we purchased used.
Manufacturers' warranties apply only to the original purchaser from an authorized dealer, and there lies the main drawback to buying used. Components most needful of warranty service are usually frames (mainly carbon fiber) and combination shifter/brake levers. Fortunately, quality and reliability of these components have improved considerably over the last few years.
Beyond suggesting a lightly used or meticulously maintained mid-level bike (carbon fiber or upgraded alloy or steel frame, 2x10, 3x10, or 2x11 drivetrain), less than five years old, and priced somewhere around half (or less) of original MSRP, I really can't be your bike shopper. Beyond points of contact (pedals, saddle, stem, handlebar), you shouldn't feel compelled to change it right away. For example, one of the salesmen I work with just bought a 2011 Scott CR1 with Shimano 105 (5700), retired from our shop's rental fleet. The bike is certainly not exotic, but it's beyond basic, a workhorse, that will take upgrades as parts wear out. You'll need to do your own research.
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I built up a few bikes last year and ended up with end products that were a bit higher spec'd and more personalized than what I could get in a shop. The challenge is to source parts at a big discount; which for me required many hours of ebay'ing and deal hunting online. There were a few road bumps along the way, wrong parts shipped and one frame just wouldn't work right for me. In the end, time is money, and I probably would have come out ahead finding a nice closeout bike but I do enjoy assembling the bikes and having something completely custom. If you do want to build something up, I was able to source a Tiagra group (shifters, derailleurs, cassette) for about $200 and it performs very well.
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Theque said:
Hello all, I am fairly new to the cycling community and the sport in general. Recently my fiance and I purchased a pair of Fuji Absolute 3.0 bikes from Performance Bike. These are hybrid flat bar bikes with rigid suspension. We love these bikes and they are perfect for exercise (I am trying to lose another 30 lbs), riding around town doing errands, playing ingress, etc... However, the more I ride the more I want to ride. I am really wanting to get into road cycling. I have been to a couple shops and they all tell me to just buy a built bike as it is cheaper to build a pre-built than to build your own. Now I am sure that is true to an extent, if you know what parts you want I think you would end up narrowing it down to a couple bikes at best and even then you would probably be replacing something or other. I am very mechanically inclined; the last couple years I spend building a 420 HP Mazda Miata Race Car. I really enjoy turning wrenches and getting to know my gear to be honest. Let's say I can put away (spend on deals that pop up) $200 a month the next 12 months; would that build me a pretty nice bike? My biggest concern is picking a frame/fork combo without being able to ride it first. I think the rest of the items (save the saddle) you can pretty much trust reviews on; Drive train, Wheels, Brakes, etc... Is this just a dumb idea? I could probably squeeze out $250 a month if I needed too. Also given my 1 year time frame, I can wait for sales on items. Any and all advise is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ray
Theque said:
Excellent advice. I really like the way you put it. We purchased the Miata because it was a cheap car we could modify. We clearly did not build it from scratch such as I suggested with the bike. Ok, with that said and assuming the goal were to slowly upgrade, what should I be looking for as far as "good bones"? Would used be a good starting point? Given as much as we were replacing on the Miata we purchased used.
You can do it!
[LIST] THAT's the short answer, IMO. And, you can probably do it for half your projected budget ... Or, build an even nicer bike than you currently imagine.
[LIST] After you spend a few hundred dollars, then you will have the parts + a majority of the tools that you will want to use in the future for subsequent maintenance OR for building your next bike ...
Since you say you are mechanically inclined, I think that the first thing that you should do is to modify YOUR existing Hybrid to a bike with Drop Bars & Road shifters ...
[LIST] Of course, THAT's the norm for a Road bike. Because of the wrong location for the cantilever brake mounts, the forward facing hole on the rear "brake bridge" was enlarged to accept a recessed nut for a standard Road brake caliper -- the distance was JUST RIGHT for a "long reach" 49mm-59mm caliper ... if I had needed a longer reach caliper, then that's what I would have used. I had to lace a 700c rim to a MTB hub.
FYI. The following is marginally MORE extreme than what I am suggesting that you do ... [IMG ALT="Mongoose_7n20fa.jpg"]http://www.cyclingforums.com/content/type/61/id/262633/width/350/height/700[/IMG] The above is a vintage (non-replaceable derailleur hanger!) MTB frame which I rebuilt as a Road bike. With the Road fork, the head tube angle is 73º ...
The bike was assembled with [B]spare[/B] parts (which I had!!!); but, I could certainly replicate it with NEW parts for under $1000 ... [LIST] That is, an Ultegra-level bike for under $1000
As pictured ... [LIST] 1. Shimano Ultegra 6500 rear derailleur 2. Shimano XT front derailleur 3. FSA crankset 4. Campagnolo Chorus shifters 5. Veloce front hub / Acera rear hub retrofitted with a normal length Freehub body 6. 105 Cassette 7. Campagnolo headset 8. Mongoose MTB frame (aluminum) 9. et cetera.
With the Carbon Fiber fork, the bike as pictured, weighs under 20 lbs. With different parts, it could weigh a little less (under 19 lbs.). With fatter tires & different components, it could certainly weigh a little more. Initially, YOU will just need the Drop handlebars & handlebar tape + the CAMPAGNOLO shifters/cables/housing & possibly a shorter stem ... plus, a set of mini-V-brake OR cantilever brake calipers.- IF YOU WANT SHIMANO OR SRAM SHIFTERS, THEN YOU WILL NEED TO SPEND MORE BECAUSE YOU WILL ALSO NEED THE CORRECT FRONT DERAILLEUR, CHAINRINGS, ETC.
Of course, WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO RETROFIT YOUR HYBRID? [LIST] First, you could see how easy-or-difficult working on a bike is ... Second, if you are conscientious then you can determine the handlebar width, drop, shape + stem length that you prefer (the "fit"😉 BEFORE you pony up for your fancy-schmancy Road build ... And, depending on the intermediate product, you might see that there is less advantage to a high-zoot frame for a regular rider than you might think ... AND, you may decide that you want larger tires (700x28, or larger) and/or fenders which would preclude a lot of the fancy-schamancy frames and point you toward a CX-type frame.
IMO, the bike rides great ( I've got some pretty nice frames against which to compare its ride ... the comparison is a great revelation which is almost-depressing because for a "regular" rider there really is less difference than the dollar differential would suggest there might be ) ... BUT, that's because of the fork & headset & head tube angle ... [LIST] IMO, everything behind the head tube is really just the caboose as far as how the bike is going to handle ... If I were racing Crits, the slightly longer wheelbase might be a "problem" ... at least, psychologically. THE downside, if there is one, is that the particular configuration has a fairly aggressive handlebar placement compared with how most people set up their bikes.
As oldbobcat notes, a well maintained bike which is several years old will probably only cost half the MSRP ... if you can find one ... Similarly, [I]I[/I] would suggest that if you are a wise shopper then you could buy NOS (or, removed from new equipment or barely used) components off of eBay for less than the MSRP which your LBS might be charging for current stuff (which may not actually be as current as it should theoretically be!). BUT, you've got a Hybird ... Here is a Hybrid frame shown in mid-construction (i.e., lacking cables & handlebar tape) shown with a Cyclocross fork ... [IMG ALT=""]http://www.cyclingforums.com/content/type/61/id/274852/width/350/height/700[/IMG] With the CX fork, the head tube angle is 72º. Basically, the bike has the geometry of a "touring" bike and/or a typical pre-1980 Road bike. So, the bottom line is that if you choose the handful of components that you will need to convert your Hybrid to a Drop Bar bike with some discernment, then you can transfer them to your new build OR keep your Hybrid as it has been modified AND/OR buy a higher level of Campagnolo components (accept no substitutes!) for your "real" Road bike AND restore your Hybrid, accordingly. BTW. You may determine that you don't like Drop bars!!! If that is the case then you may find Moustache handelbars to be an option worth looking into. -
Quoted post said:
Originally Posted by alfeng
You can do it!
[LIST]
alfeng,I really appreciate that post; much more than you realize. Believe it or not, I was researching that exact thing. Bellow are some of my concerns.
1. Drop Bars are not plug and play because you need (or should be getting) STI type Brifters in order to get the multiple hand positions while still being able to use the brakes and shifters.
2. STI Brifters are not cheap and not compatible with my front derailer.
3. STI Brifters are not compatible with my standard linear brakes.
Below are my thoughts and what I have researched so far.
If I decide to go this route (which I am heavily leaning towards) I can slowly upgrade the parts on my current bike while at the same time getting the opportunity to turn wrenches (allen wrenches mostly heh) and learn my bike in and out. Furthermore I can buy exactly the parts that I want and at no time be without a bike.
I am sure there are people asking why I bought a Hybrid if what I really want is a road bike. Well first was money. I am trying to lose 35 lbs (down 5) and we really do enjoy cycling. When purchasing everything you need for cycling for two people, you find the bike is only part of the budget. We spent $800 total on the two bikes we have, and that allowed us to have just enough money for all of the other items we needed to buy (again for two people) and be up and running in a matter of 1 day. We had to purchase helmets, gloves, water bottle cages, water bottles, safety lights, cycling shorts, jerseys, saddle bags, attachable bike pump, extra inter tubes, multifunction repair tool, bike lock, and we splurged with an upgraded saddle that is way more comfortable. At this point, I spent a little more than I had budgeted, but we have already put 80-100 miles on the bike and have since canceled my 24 hour fitness membership.
With a road bike, the entry was a bit steeper to get the bare bones one that I would have wanted to upgrade anyhow, and then many of them came without pedals (I know we could have gone cheap, but it is just another cost). On top of that, a full fledged road bike may not be the only bike we want as we would like to use the bikes for a more utilitarian purpose (getting a small amount of groceries for example). Furthermore, the tires on the hybrid made it a little more friendly for going over cobblestones and being forced to ride on crappy sidewalks in certain locations around town.
With all of that said, I started doing some research on my own and think what you proposed is the wisest move. I can slowly upgrade the parts on my current bike with the items I want on my future road bike, all the while saving all of my old parts to put back on my hybrid if I purchase a road bike frame.
- I have found from shopping around that I can get a full Ultegra Gropset (11 piece set) for as low as $700 and I bet if I am patient and look around I can find it for more like $650 on sale. I have found full 105 Groupset for as low as $500, and again I am sure if I shopped around and was patient I could find it closer to $450. This takes care of everything I need in regards to the drive chain.
- I have also discovered that if I were to swap my current linear V brakes with a set of Mini-V brakes (Tektro 926A are only $20) than the STI brifter will work quite well. My frame does not support cantilever brakes, but the brakes from the groupset could be saved for the road bike frame.
All this leaves is the drop bar itself and possibly a stem which could be had for pretty cheap as well.
At this point I would have a drop bar hybrid that has a much higher grade gear set. From there All I need to do is save for a set of wheels, and a frame/fork set and if I wanted all I would need to do is transfer all the items over, and rebuild the hybrid back to its original specs assuming I still want to move forward with a full fledged race bike.
This will allow me to continue to cycle on my hybrid while I put away $200 a month for upgrade parts. Upon getting the parts I will be able to really get to know my bike and have just as much fun building it up as I would riding it.
Thank you again for post as it really made me feel better about doing this.
-Ray
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If you shop around, you can get a brand new bike with an Ultegra where-it-counts groupset for less than $1K. Nashbar has one on sale right now and Bikesdirect has more than one model in that range.
When you add up the cost for all the parts to build a bike full up, go and look what is avalable for that price online. Unless you are getting deep discounts, there is a good chance that you will find something as nice or better with a warranty. If you are unsure of how a road bike should fit you, assembling yourself can be a bit of a [censored] shoot as well. Finding the right frame geometry and complementary components is an exercise in itself.
Go ahead an do it, it is fun and educational, but It is not the easiest route and often not the most cost effective.
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Theque said:
alfeng, I really appreciate that post; much more than you realize. Believe it or not, I was researching that exact thing. Bellow are some of my concerns. 1. Drop Bars are not plug and play because you need (or should be getting) STI type Brifters in order to get the multiple hand positions while still being able to use the brakes and shifters. 2. STI Brifters are not cheap and not compatible with my front derailer. 3. STI Brifters are not compatible with my standard linear brakes. Below are my thoughts and what I have researched so far. If I decide to go this route (which I am heavily leaning towards) I can slowly upgrade the parts on my current bike while at the same time getting the opportunity to turn wrenches (allen wrenches mostly heh) and learn my bike in and out. Furthermore I can buy exactly the parts that I want and at no time be without a bike. I am sure there are people asking why I bought a Hybrid if what I really want is a road bike. Well first was money. I am trying to lose 35 lbs (down 5) and we really do enjoy cycling. When purchasing everything you need for cycling for two people, you find the bike is only part of the budget. We spent $800 total on the two bikes we have, and that allowed us to have just enough money for all of the other items we needed to buy (again for two people) and be up and running in a matter of 1 day. We had to purchase helmets, gloves, water bottle cages, water bottles, safety lights, cycling shorts, jerseys, saddle bags, attachable bike pump, extra inter tubes, multifunction repair tool, bike lock, and we splurged with an upgraded saddle that is way more comfortable. At this point, I spent a little more than I had budgeted, but we have already put 80-100 miles on the bike and have since canceled my 24 hour fitness membership. With a road bike, the entry was a bit steeper to get the bare bones one that I would have wanted to upgrade anyhow, and then many of them came without pedals (I know we could have gone cheap, but it is just another cost). On top of that, a full fledged road bike may not be the only bike we want as we would like to use the bikes for a more utilitarian purpose (getting a small amount of groceries for example). Furthermore, the tires on the hybrid made it a little more friendly for going over cobblestones and being forced to ride on crappy sidewalks in certain locations around town. With all of that said, I started doing some research on my own and think what you proposed is the wisest move. I can slowly upgrade the parts on my current bike with the items I want on my future road bike, all the while saving all of my old parts to put back on my hybrid if I purchase a road bike frame. - I have found from shopping around that I can get a full Ultegra Gropset (11 piece set) for as low as $700 and I bet if I am patient and look around I can find it for more like $650 on sale. I have found full 105 Groupset for as low as $500, and again I am sure if I shopped around and was patient I could find it closer to $450. This takes care of everything I need in regards to the drive chain. - I have also discovered that if I were to swap my current linear V brakes with a set of Mini-V brakes (Tektro 926A are only $20) than the STI brifter will work quite well. My frame does not support cantilever brakes, but the brakes from the groupset could be saved for the road bike frame. All this leaves is the drop bar itself and possibly a stem which could be had for pretty cheap as well. At this point I would have a drop bar hybrid that has a much higher grade gear set. From there All I need to do is save for a set of wheels, and a frame/fork set and if I wanted all I would need to do is transfer all the items over, and rebuild the hybrid back to its original specs assuming I still want to move forward with a full fledged race bike. This will allow me to continue to cycle on my hybrid while I put away $200 a month for upgrade parts. Upon getting the parts I will be able to really get to know my bike and have just as much fun building it up as I would riding it. Thank you again for post as it really made me feel better about doing this. -Ray
FWIW. I used the phrase "[B]Ultegra[/B]-level" because Shimano's Ultegra components are certainly considered to be THE BENCHMARK which most people know as being a best buy for the well heeled enthusiast who hasn't broadened his-or-her horizons enough to realize that Campagnolo's shifters are superior ... So, I really think that you should look into buying a pair of Campagnolo shifters ... [LIST] and/or, the rest of their components ...
The good news is that you can use Shimano 10-and-11-speed Cassettes (on Shimano compatible wheels) with Campagnolo's 11-speed shifters ... AND, you can use your current derailleurs with Campagnolo shifters ... In fact, you could mate either 10-or-11-speed Campagnolo shifters to a variety of OTHER Shimano Cassettes & derailleurs ... [IMG ALT=""]http://www.cyclingforums.com/content/type/61/id/271659/width/350/height/700[/IMG] So?!? Essentially, unlike Shimano's shifters, 10 Speed Campagnolo shifters are just short of universal with a variety of Shimano cassettes ... [LIST] A pair of used 10-speed Campagnolo Chorus shifters in very good condition should be available for $150 +/- ...
BTW. You have the V-brake compatiblity information backwards -- the mini-V-brake calipers work with standard Road brake levers ... [LIST] I don't know about the latest-and-greatest Shimano brake levers which supposedly have a slightly different pull.
In other words, try what you have before you buy replacements for your current mini-V-brake calipers. -
Build up is better.
Most cheaper off the shelf bikes have some really poor components on them you will want to replace.
I sell custom Italian road bikes and we can get people fully custom made frames (to fit precisely your height, flexibility, needs and importantly your weight) that are way better than anytihng coming out of Taiwan, painted to your spec.
I've delivered whole bikes for under $4500 custom with 11 speed shifting.I'd recommend custom frames, then look for a second hand 10 speed Campy Super Record group. Parts for this are cheaper and the quality is fantastic. I ride with a rep who is still using his 10 year old groupset and keeps moving it from frame to frame as it performs great, and really did we ever need 11 speed?
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Quoted post said:
Originally Posted by mpre53
I don't know how it works in Europe, but in the US, only the frameset is warrantied by the manufacturer. The components are warrantied by their manufacturer (Shimano/SRAM/Campy) and the same with the wheels. So it makes no difference on a build vs. complete bike, warranty-wise.Not sure what a Tiagra group runs for over here. A 10 speed Microshift Arris, which is actually a pretty decent group, runs about $300 US.
the same for me.i think
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About a year after I got back into cycling, I decided I had learned enough to more or less know what I wanted in a bike, and I had a some disposable income sitting around that amounted to about $2400. I saved a whopping $50 upfront by assembling it myself (other than pressing in the headset--which I later learned I could have BUILT a headset press for about $3). If you factor in the value of my time, that $50 was no savings at all. One wheel came out-of-true, so I spent $10 or $15 to have the LBS true it up, as I didn't want to delve into that at the time, nor deal with any sort of warranty rigamarole.
However, the true savings have come in the years since. I may have dropped some more coin on cycling-specific tools (I'm not shy about buying tools), but my bike works perfectly and has yet to see the inside of a bike shop. Why? Because I learned every virtually every detail about my bike when I put it together, and took the time to learn how to make various adjustments as I got it dialed in to my body's fit needs. YouTube is your friend when it comes to bike assembly, maintenance, and repair, as are the manufacturers' instructions that come with new components.
Regular cleaning and lubing are also of utmost importance--they're a de facto inspection that help you find little issues before they become big problems.
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Spoiler Alert:
Giant can deliver a heckuva bike (Giant Defy Advanced 1) for a list price of $2600
giant-bicycles.com76105Open ↗
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