Help me decide on a great commuter bike

"Noel Llopis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I intend to use it mostly for commuting (12 miles each way in reasonably hilly terrain--takes me
about 45-50 minutes), especially in rainy weather. When the weather is nice and the roads are
clear, I'll probably ride my road bike instead.

My 54cm Trek 5200 fits me like a glove, so I'd prefer a frame that has similar proportions. I
don't mind if it has shallower angles, but I don't want something with a really short top tube and
a more upright position.

I'd like to have wide tires (32 or 35?) on this commuter bike, so right there that puts some
restrictions on the frames I can use. I'm thinking that a cyclocross frame might be a good fit.

I'd also like to be able to put on fenders for the winter commuting (they might come off for rainy
rides in the summer), so it has to have eyelets.

Since this is going to be a bad-weather bike, should I avoid steel or chromoly and go for alumium
or something else that won't be too affected

by

Quoted message said:

water?

I haven't researched brakes or wheels for this very much. Any suggestions

of

Quoted message said:

things to get/avoid?

Let me know if you have any specific recommendations, manufacturers, etc. I'm comfortable both
buying the parts and putting it together myself or buying a whole bike. Unfortunately LBSs are out
of the question since

there

Quoted message said:

are no good ones nearby (and they don't carry any decent bikes that match what I want).

If possible, I'd like to keep it under about $1K, but I can go a bit

higher

Quoted message said:

if it makes a big difference.

A few bikes that you ought to take a look at, although they will cost *more* than $1k are:

Rivendell Romulus - starting at $1550, you get an all japanese component (very rare these days) bike
that will pretty much take you anywhere, in any weather condition. Further, its made for wide tires
and fenders: rivbike.combikes romulusframes.htmlOpen ↗

If you want, or need, more touring bike, take a look at Bruce Gordon's BLT which at $1600 (or $1800
if you want the racks - best there are) is an excellent buy: bgcycles.comblt.htmlOpen ↗

Todd Kuzma's Heron bikes are made by Waterford and although a bit pricy will fit your needs:
heronbicycles.comindex.htmlOpen ↗

Or visit your LBS and see the latest offerings from Bianchi, Trek and others....The kit is to find
one that fits!

In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I intend to use it mostly for commuting (12 miles each way in reasonably hilly terrain--takes me
about 45-50 minutes), especially in rainy weather. When the weather is nice and the roads are
clear, I'll probably ride my road bike instead.

My 54cm Trek 5200 fits me like a glove, so I'd prefer a frame that has similar proportions. I
don't mind if it has shallower angles, but I don't want something with a really short top tube and
a more upright position.

I'd like to have wide tires (32 or 35?) on this commuter bike, so right there that puts some
restrictions on the frames I can use. I'm thinking that a cyclocross frame might be a good fit.

I'd also like to be able to put on fenders for the winter commuting (they might come off for rainy
rides in the summer), so it has to have eyelets.

Or a touring frame. My Fuji Touring comes with 30's, and there is room for more tire, as well as
fenders and a rack, with eyelets for both. I have the 58cm size, and the next size down is 54.

Quoted message said:

Since this is going to be a bad-weather bike, should I avoid steel or chromoly and go for alumium
or something else that won't be too affected by water?

Do you have to worry about salt on the roads? If so, then I'd avoid steel, but just water probably
wouldn't be a problem. I don't believe Chromoly corrodes as easily as the plain steel on cheap bikes
does, so that might not be an issue. Salt can definitely eat up aluminum.

Quoted message said:

I haven't researched brakes or wheels for this very much. Any suggestions of things to get/avoid?

Let me know if you have any specific recommendations, manufacturers, etc. I'm comfortable both
buying the parts and putting it together myself or buying a whole bike. Unfortunately LBSs are out
of the question since there are no good ones nearby (and they don't carry any decent bikes that
match what I want).

If possible, I'd like to keep it under about $1K, but I can go a bit higher if it makes a big
difference.

My 2003 Fuji Touring listed for $839, and my LBS had it for $799. I believe the 2004 is the
same price.

--
Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

Noel Llopis said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I intend to use it mostly for commuting (12 miles each way in reasonably hilly terrain--takes me
about 45-50 minutes), especially in rainy weather. When the weather is nice and the roads are
clear, I'll probably ride my road bike instead.

My advice, and the route I took: Get an upper-to-middle-range hybrid, then (assuming you prefer this
as I do) convert to drop bars.

The hybrid will fit the large tires and have attachment points for fenders (necessary!) and the rack
you'll probably want to carry items. Having gears lower than you normally need for your hilly route
is good for those days you finish too tired for a vigorous commute.

If you *store* the bike indoors, I wouldn't worry about getting it wet for ~1:30 each day. My steel
Univega hasn't rusted much in 10 years commuting in soggy western Oregon (only about 20 minutes each
way, though). I think most of the rusting occurs when bikes are parked for long periods in damp
spots, but I haven't tested this idea carefully. If you are forced to park in the rain, I would buy
in the lower price range and junk every few years.

Best advice: watch your newspaper want ads for used bikes. Inquire about the promising ads There are
so many expensive bikes out there that are never ridden - you can pick up a real bargain. My Univega
was 1 year and 100 miles old when I picked it up at half of retail. A thorough cleaning (it had
gotten buried in sawdust in someone's woodshop) and it was like new. Buy for durable, not pretty -
think of this as a (quality) utility bike. A few rides in the rain, and there will be very little
pretty left.

Good luck,

Mark (I have other bikes for pleasure rides) Janeba

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by David Kerber
In article <[email hidden]>, [email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I intend to use it mostly for commuting (12 miles each way in reasonably hilly terrain--takes me
about 45-50 minutes), especially in rainy weather. When the weather is nice and the roads are
clear, I'll probably ride my road bike instead.

My 54cm Trek 5200 fits me like a glove, so I'd prefer a frame that has similar proportions. I
don't mind if it has shallower angles, but I don't want something with a really short top tube and
a more upright position.

I'd like to have wide tires (32 or 35?) on this commuter bike, so right there that puts some
restrictions on the frames I can use. I'm thinking that a cyclocross frame might be a good fit.

I'd also like to be able to put on fenders for the winter commuting (they might come off for rainy
rides in the summer), so it has to have eyelets.

Or a touring frame. My Fuji Touring comes with 30's, and there is room for more tire, as well as
fenders and a rack, with eyelets for both. I have the 58cm size, and the next size down is 54.

Quoted message said:

Since this is going to be a bad-weather bike, should I avoid steel or chromoly and go for alumium
or something else that won't be too affected by water?

Do you have to worry about salt on the roads? If so, then I'd avoid steel, but just water probably
wouldn't be a problem. I don't believe Chromoly corrodes as easily as the plain steel on cheap bikes
does, so that might not be an issue. Salt can definitely eat up aluminum.

Quoted message said:

I haven't researched brakes or wheels for this very much. Any suggestions of things to get/avoid?

Let me know if you have any specific recommendations, manufacturers, etc. I'm comfortable both
buying the parts and putting it together myself or buying a whole bike. Unfortunately LBSs are out
of the question since there are no good ones nearby (and they don't carry any decent bikes that
match what I want).

If possible, I'd like to keep it under about $1K, but I can go a bit higher if it makes a big
difference.

My 2003 Fuji Touring listed for $839, and my LBS had it for $799. I believe the 2004 is the
same price.

--
Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

Fuji Tourer is a great choice.
REI has a Novara Randonee 04 $799 touring bicycle at URL:
http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=47677189&parent_category_rn=4500922
Trek 520 is also a good bicycle, but it may be out of your price range.
There are rust prevention chemicals that you can apply on the inside of the frame. Keep the paint clean and touch up as needed.
Planet Bike and ESGE both have good fenders. I like to extend the front one down to mititgate the splash back.
Conti Top Touring 2000 tires seem to work for me and they come in sizes you want.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Noel Llopis
Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great commuter/bad
weather bike.

I intend to use it mostly for commuting (12 miles each way in reasonably hilly terrain--takes me
about 45-50 minutes), especially in rainy weather. When the weather is nice and the roads are clear,
I'll probably ride my road bike instead.

My 54cm Trek 5200 fits me like a glove, so I'd prefer a frame that has similar proportions. I don't
mind if it has shallower angles, but I don't want something with a really short top tube and a more
upright position.

I'd like to have wide tires (32 or 35?) on this commuter bike, so right there that puts some
restrictions on the frames I can use. I'm thinking that a cyclocross frame might be a good fit.

I'd also like to be able to put on fenders for the winter commuting (they might come off for rainy
rides in the summer), so it has to have eyelets.

Since this is going to be a bad-weather bike, should I avoid steel or chromoly and go for alumium or
something else that won't be too affected by water?

I haven't researched brakes or wheels for this very much. Any suggestions of things to get/avoid?

Let me know if you have any specific recommendations, manufacturers, etc. I'm comfortable both
buying the parts and putting it together myself or buying a whole bike. Unfortunately LBSs are out
of the question since there are no good ones nearby (and they don't carry any decent bikes that
match what I want).

If possible, I'd like to keep it under about $1K, but I can go a bit higher if it makes a big
difference.

Thanks!

--Noel

Bad weather, rain - how about velomobiles?

http://home.mindspring.com/~kb7mxu/trikes5.htm

Above the price range you suggested, but on canvas body model came out recently - can't recall the manufacturer or its site, closer to you price goal.

Consider fairings and body socks for bad weather;
for snow, ice three wheels may keep you upright.
Brakes- in rain, it would be nice to have at least one wheel with disc or drum brakes.

Also, consider internal gear hubs since their more weather resistant than ders.

Takes a long time for a frame to rust- I'd be more concerned with the componentry on a bad weather bike. Al would show less corossion aesthetically and be lighter.

Noel Llopis said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I intend to use it mostly for commuting (12 miles each way in reasonably hilly terrain--takes me
about 45-50 minutes), especially in rainy weather. When the weather is nice and the roads are
clear, I'll probably ride my road bike instead.

My 54cm Trek 5200 fits me like a glove, so I'd prefer a frame that has similar proportions. I
don't mind if it has shallower angles, but I don't want something with a really short top tube and
a more upright position.

Ignore the angles, for the most part. People get way too obsessed about them. The seat tube angle is
only important for saddle location, and just about any bike maker understands the head angle/fork
offset/wheel diameter relationship.

Quoted message said:

I'd like to have wide tires (32 or 35?) on this commuter bike, so right there that puts some
restrictions on the frames I can use. I'm thinking that a cyclocross frame might be a good fit.

Or a touring frame.

Quoted message said:

I'd also like to be able to put on fenders for the winter commuting (they might come off for rainy
rides in the summer), so it has to have eyelets.

They're convenient but not necessary, the workarounds are simple. All touring bikes and most 'cross
bikes will come with eyelets, though.

Quoted message said:

Since this is going to be a bad-weather bike, should I avoid steel or chromoly and go for alumium
or something else that won't be too affected by water?

No. It'd take years for a steel frame to rust out unless you are a totally negligent bike owner. You
might have some trouble finding an aluinum frame that will manage 35 mm tires and fenders, due to
the thickness of the stays.

Quoted message said:

I haven't researched brakes or wheels for this very much. Any suggestions of things to get/avoid?

Reliability is the key: 36 spokes, 3 cross.

Quoted message said:

Let me know if you have any specific recommendations, manufacturers, etc. I'm comfortable both
buying the parts and putting it together myself or buying a whole bike. Unfortunately LBSs are out
of the question since there are no good ones nearby (and they don't carry any decent bikes that
match what I want).

If possible, I'd like to keep it under about $1K, but I can go a bit higher if it makes a big
difference.

Check out the Rivendell Romulus for an off-the-rack solution that covers everything you've
described, priced just a bit above $1000

www.rivbike.com/webalog

In article <[email hidden]>,

Noel Llopis said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I intend to use it mostly for commuting (12 miles each way in reasonably hilly terrain--takes me
about 45-50 minutes), especially in rainy weather. When the weather is nice and the roads are
clear, I'll probably ride my road bike instead.

My 54cm Trek 5200 fits me like a glove, so I'd prefer a frame that has similar proportions. I
don't mind if it has shallower angles, but I don't want something with a really short top tube and
a more upright position.

I'd like to have wide tires (32 or 35?) on this commuter bike, so right there that puts some
restrictions on the frames I can use. I'm thinking that a cyclocross frame might be a good fit.

Yes. And they're usually not expensive.

Quoted message said:

I'd also like to be able to put on fenders for the winter commuting (they might come off for rainy
rides in the summer), so it has to have eyelets.

Since this is going to be a bad-weather bike, should I avoid steel or chromoly and go for alumium
or something else that won't be too affected by water?

I wouldn't worry about that, but see below for why.

Quoted message said:

I haven't researched brakes or wheels for this very much. Any suggestions of things to get/avoid?

36-spoke Al clincher rims. Use Kool Stop salmon pads for actual braking. I bought the gray ones once
because the shop was out of salmon, and they're less impressive than stock Shimano pads (which I
think are okay).

Quoted message said:

If possible, I'd like to keep it under about $1K, but I can go a bit higher if it makes a big
difference.

My feeling is that you can go much, much cheaper. Think sub-$100, think garage sale, and think early
1980s road machinery.

I picked up an early-80s Japanese-made Bianchi with nice Nisi rims for $10 at a garage sale this
year. Nothing fancy, not terribly lightweight, and already a bit rusty, but perfectly serviceable.
Most bikes of this era were built with eyelets and reasonable fender clearances. I weigh about 155
(well, I did before Christmas), and ride with about 25 pounds of rack, pannier, trunk, lunch, and
clothing on my way to work. I use 28 mm tires with no problem and with plenty of clearance to the
fenders (32s might fit, 35s probably would not). I have no desire for a fatter tire than that, and I
did a ride on a gravel path this week.

The nicest thing is that since this is a wet-weather commuter vehicle, and since it is already a bit
rusty, I don't worry about theft or salt. My experience is that the corrosion on the frame has not
progressed significantly after a couple months of salty roads, using no more precautions than indoor
storage at both ends. If I feel guilty about it later, I'll put some Rustoleum on it.

The thing to look for in a bike this age is a decent quality frame with decent components. Stay away
from bikes with suicide levers or shifters on the stem. Most (but not all) bikes with those features
are indifferent department-store stuff of the era.

Once you get the bike home, it's worth opening up, cleaning, and adjusting the front and rear hubs.
The BB and headset are also good things to check, adjust, and grease. Being lazy, I tend to wantonly
remove BBs at the first sign of trouble and replace them with Shimano cartridge units. This has as
much to do with the fact that I own the right tool for installing Shimano BBs as any predjudice
against adjustable BBs, but the Shimano UN-52 is one of the great values in bike parts.

Useful upgrades: -make sure the brakes are up to standard. Since you have the budget, I would
seriously consider mail-ordering or EBay-ing a dual-pivot front brake. Dave will kill me for
recommending his favourite brake and driving up the price, but the RSX dual-pivot is heavy (yeah,
probably 50g heavier than Dura-Ace) and strong. I think having decent braking performance from
the hoods is especially important on a commuter bike. -a Hyperglide 6- or 7-speed freewheel is a
great upgrade if/when the original part needs replacement. I think Hyperglide does more to
improve shifting than indexing -but, since 6-speed index shifters are cheap, why not get a set of
those next?

I think Planet Bike's plastic fenders work well, but I have a nice set of stylish Esges on my
commuter, because I had them around.

Assuming an extravagant start of $100 for the bike, and then adding fenders, a rack, and the
recommended brake, you should be out less than $200. I would say this is a high estimate. I'm
actually out of pocket about C$50 for my Bianchi, what with scrounging, parts reallocation, and
including some relatively unnecessary upgrades (replaced seat with slightly nicer seat. New seat
cost me C$2 on Boxing Day).

Bike scrounging is not for everyone, but I think it's worth knowing what the real costs and issues
are when you get into this stuff.

--
Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] sfu.ca~rcousineOpen ↗ President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club

"Noel Llopis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

<snip>

I've been looking at the Fisher Dual Sport myself, however I got to go with a lot of people and say
for a bad weather bike commuter bike, get something used.

Between garage sales and cheep stuff from Nashbar, you should be able to put together a nice bike
for less that $100 total.

C.Q.C.

"Noel Llopis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I've been commuting steady for 4 years. My recommendations:

Start with a yard sale race bike. 70's and 80's Pinarellos and Gitane Super Corsas and PX-10's and
the like. If the bike comes in at more than 21 pounds then it likely is junk. If it has any of the
following: suicide brake levers, stem-mounted shifters, a kickstand, steel rims, single-butted frame
tubing, non-stainless spokes, a spoke chain guard, or steel derailleurs or brakes, then it
definitely is junk. The older bikes also have the advantage of having large tire and fender
clearance plus fender/rack mounts. This should come in at less than $50.

Completley overhaul the bike - down to the derailleur pulleys. You may need to replace the hub
cones and bottom bracket spindle. These $10 worth of parts is likely why the bike is for sale in
the first place.

Full fenders (ESGE) and 25-28mm tires. Add $20.

Good brakes. I recommend (if possible) canti's or a dual-pivot brake at least up front. Add Scott
brake pads. Not made any more, but visit your local bike stores and releave them of their old
stock... Add another $30.

Add aero brake levers. $20. The older non-aero levers are simply inadequate for stopping in wet
conditions.

Add a new Hyperglide freewheel and some Shimano indexing downtube shifters to match the desired
gearing and the number of speeds. The freewheel should come in at less than $15 and the Shimano
shifters you should be able to scrounge.

New chain: $10

Done: total bill: $145.

Noel Llopis wrote: -snip other reasonable requests for commuting advice

Quoted message said:

Since this is going to be a bad-weather bike, should I avoid steel or chromoly and go for alumium
or something else that won't be too affected by water?

-snip

Our experience is that corrosion resistance of an aluminum frame is no better than on a steel one
after commuting in salt water. In fact, with many variables, some aluminum bikes seen regularly in
service here have severe corrosion issues. (Of course some aluminum bikes seem to weather weather
just fine) But aluminum in and of itself is no panacea.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Noel Llopis said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I intend to use it mostly for commuting (12 miles each way in reasonably hilly terrain--takes me
about 45-50 minutes), especially in rainy weather. When the weather is nice and the roads are
clear, I'll probably ride my road bike instead.

My 54cm Trek 5200 fits me like a glove, so I'd prefer a frame that has similar proportions. I
don't mind if it has shallower angles, but I don't want something with a really short top tube and
a more upright position.

I'd like to have wide tires (32 or 35?) on this commuter bike, so right there that puts some
restrictions on the frames I can use. I'm thinking that a cyclocross frame might be a good fit.

I'd also like to be able to put on fenders for the winter commuting (they might come off for rainy
rides in the summer), so it has to have eyelets.

Since this is going to be a bad-weather bike, should I avoid steel or chromoly and go for alumium
or something else that won't be too affected by water?

I haven't researched brakes or wheels for this very much. Any suggestions of things to get/avoid?

Let me know if you have any specific recommendations, manufacturers, etc. I'm comfortable both
buying the parts and putting it together myself or buying a whole bike. Unfortunately LBSs are out
of the question since there are no good ones nearby (and they don't carry any decent bikes that
match what I want).

If possible, I'd like to keep it under about $1K, but I can go a bit higher if it makes a big
difference.

I'd probably be looking at used bikes, and/or piecing together from parts. But if you want something
new, look at the 'cross bikes from Surly and Redline. These are a particularly good value, and
should accomodate both fat tires and fenders, as well as a rack. With judicious sizing, you should
be able to get a fit that's practically identical to your Trek's.

Matt O.

Hi Noel,

Even though my commute bike is a Trek 2300 (old carbon fiber/alum composite frame) and I'm using
Rolf Vector Pro Wheels, if I had to purchase a commute bike, I'd go for a Cylocross frame such
as a Redline or a Lemond Propad. I believe you can get one new, built up for around 1K, give or
take a 100.

2 cents,

Dan

BTW, I commute from work to a train station 35 miles in the East SF Bay, two, three times a week,
over the Oakland hills. I get about 2300' accumulated.

"Noel Llopis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I intend to use it mostly for commuting (12 miles each way in reasonably hilly terrain--takes me
about 45-50 minutes), especially in rainy weather. When the weather is nice and the roads are
clear, I'll probably ride my road bike instead.

My 54cm Trek 5200 fits me like a glove, so I'd prefer a frame that has similar proportions. I
don't mind if it has shallower angles, but I don't want something with a really short top tube and
a more upright position.

I'd like to have wide tires (32 or 35?) on this commuter bike, so right there that puts some
restrictions on the frames I can use. I'm thinking that a cyclocross frame might be a good fit.

I'd also like to be able to put on fenders for the winter commuting (they might come off for rainy
rides in the summer), so it has to have eyelets.

Since this is going to be a bad-weather bike, should I avoid steel or chromoly and go for alumium
or something else that won't be too affected

by

Quoted message said:

water?

I haven't researched brakes or wheels for this very much. Any suggestions

of

Quoted message said:

things to get/avoid?

Let me know if you have any specific recommendations, manufacturers, etc. I'm comfortable both
buying the parts and putting it together myself or buying a whole bike. Unfortunately LBSs are out
of the question since

there

Quoted message said:

are no good ones nearby (and they don't carry any decent bikes that match what I want).

If possible, I'd like to keep it under about $1K, but I can go a bit

higher

Quoted message said:

if it makes a big difference.

Thanks!

--Noel

meb said:

Also, consider internal gear hubs since their more weather resistant than ders.

This is a good point -- you can't beat hub gears for low maintenance, especially if you use a
chaincase too. I have enough trouble keeping two bikes clean and lubed, in relatively good weather.

Burley has a commuter bike with hub gears, but it's more of a MTB style.

If you want to replicate your Trek's fit, you'll probably have to build a custom bike -- from either
an older frame, or a new one that's compatible with hub gears. I doubt you could do this with all
new parts for less than a grand.

Matt O.

"Noel Llopis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:GyDJb.16785.

See: commutebike.comcommutebike.comOpen ↗

For a complete bike under $1K, go with the Specialized Globe.

Someone else suggested the Romulus. Great bike, but by the time you add a seat, pedals, rack, and
fenders, and buy a set of Shimano 105 brake lever/shifters, you'll be at about $1900. On the plus
side, it's a capable road bike and touring bike as well as being able to be outfitted for commuting.

"meb" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Also, consider internal gear hubs since their more weather resistant than ders.

Takes a long time for a frame to rust- I'd be more concerned with the componentry on a bad weather
bike. Al would show less corossion aesthetically and be lighter.

I have a steel frame fendered Columbia with Sturmey Archer 3 speed from 1971, and it's still going
strong. My friend picked this out of the trash and gave it to me. I consider this a great commuter
bike, but the OP seemed like he wanted something a bit fancier (for lack of a better term) than
that, so I didn't mention it before. It is worth noting however, that this 33 year old bike which
has been ridden and left out in the rain countless times, is still around, with just some relatively
minor rust but in mechanically sound condition.

C.Q.C.

In article <xJJJb.931966$pl3.346552@pd7tw3no>,

Dave Mayer said:

"Noel Llopis" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello,

I'm in the process of trying to put together (or buy if there's one available) a great
commuter/bad weather bike.

I've been commuting steady for 4 years. My recommendations:

Start with a yard sale race bike. 70's and 80's Pinarellos and Gitane Super Corsas and PX-10's and
the like. If the bike comes in at more than 21 pounds then it likely is junk. If it has any of the
following: suicide brake levers, stem-mounted shifters, a kickstand, steel rims, single-butted
frame tubing, non-stainless spokes, a spoke chain guard, or steel derailleurs or brakes, then it
definitely is junk. The older bikes also have the advantage of having large tire and fender
clearance plus fender/rack mounts. This should come in at less than $50.

Heh heh. We gave the same advice, but I beat you by four hours 🙂. BTW, I can think of one
counterexample of a good bike equipped with a kickstand. 🙂

Quoted message said:

Good brakes. I recommend (if possible) canti's or a dual-pivot brake at least up front. Add Scott
brake pads. Not made any more, but visit your local bike stores and releave them of their old
stock... Add another $30.

How do you find the salmon Kool-stops by comparison?

--
Ryan Cousineau, [email hidden] sfu.ca~rcousineOpen ↗ President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club

The Surly Cross-Check fits the bill perfectly and can be had as a complete bike from Harris Cyclery
for $908. Sounds like a winner to me.

sheldonbrown.comsurly cross check.htmlOpen ↗

Rob Strickland

"Ryan Cousineau" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Heh heh. We gave the same advice, but I beat you by four hours 🙂. BTW, I can think of one
counterexample of a good bike equipped with a kickstand. 🙂

Quoted message said:

Good brakes. I recommend (if possible) canti's or a dual-pivot brake at least up front. Add
Scott brake pads. Not made any more, but visit

your

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

local bike stores and releave them of their old stock... Add another

$30.

Quoted message said:

How do you find the salmon Kool-stops by comparison?

Kool Stop Salmon brake pads? Don't know, never needed to try them. Somewhere in my stash I have
about 50 new Scott brake pads. Should last me... I think I've cleaned out every bike store
within 50 miles.