Snow and blizzard conditions were forecast early last week, so I booked accommodation in Braithwaite
for 4 days from Wednesday 28th to take advantage of the conditions. I just love walking in cold,
snowy, icy weather.
Wednesday 28 - Red Tarn from Glenridding
It was 4:10 in the morning as I heading north in the car from Denmead, Hampshire. A bit of a
snowstorm in Staffordshire slowed progress, but I was parking in Glenridding car park by 10:30 ....
and having to pay 5 pounds for parking! (It was either 3 pounds for 4 hours, or 5 pounds for 24
hours.) I was on way to Red Tarn, via Mires Beck and Greenside Mine, by 11:00 in a small snow shower
which didn't last too long. The sky was overcast, with a very strong wind forecast on the higher
Fells. I skirted below Birkhouse Moor to reach Red Tarn Beck. A slow plod up the icy path around
Catstye Cam brought me to Red Tarn .. and the full thrust of the wind and spindrift. Helvellyn was
still under cloud and spin-drift, but I continued up to the ridge section of Swirral Edge. My plan
was to have lunch on Helvellyn, then north over Whiteside and Raise, before returning via Greenside
Mines. Well, I made it part way up Swirral Edge, but decided the windy and icy conditions were not
right for me. I had iceaxe and crampons, but the ice was on exposed rock, and crampons would have
made matters worse. I found a sheltered spot and had lunch, during which time the clouds opened to
reveal blue sky and some great views to the northwest through north to the east. It didn't affect my
alternative plan; I returned to Red Tarn then on to the Hole-in-the-Wall. I continued along the top
to Birkhouse Moor, continually buffeted by the gusting wind and spindrift. It eased slightly as I
descended from Birkhouse on my way to Lanty's Tarn, again having splendid winter views down to
Ullswater. I returned to an icy empty car park. (Can you wonder at those prices!) Although it had
been a very cold and windy day, and I didn't achieve my intended aim, it was none the less a great
outing. The drive up to the A66 was interesting to say the least; ice and snow on the roads made the
journey very slow indeed.
Thursday 29 - Fairfield Horseshoe
The forecast for Thursday was pretty much the same as Wednesday, although a little less windy but
still 30/40 knts at 3000ft. So I opted for a clockwise circuit of the Fairfield Horseshoe from
Ambleside. (I have done this route a couple of times, but not under winter conditions.) An early
start from Braithwaite meant I was in the car park at Ambleside by 0845, having paid 6 pounds for
parking. (Again just over 3 pounds for 4 hours, then 6 pounds for 12 hours. Seems to be a tax on
walking in Cumbria now!) Getting over the shock of another high parking fee, I was on the road and
track to Rydal Hall, followed by a steady ascent of Nab Scar. Broken cloud combined with the rising
sun produced some quite stunning views as I gained height. The snow became more widespread as I
progressed over Heron Pike and Great Rig, with the ever-present strong north-westerly wind slowing
progress. The final push up to Fairfield was rewarded with a hot coffee and sandwich at the wind-
shelter. I was alone on top until a walker came off Coffa Pike and took up residence in the other
south-westerly wind-shelter. It was very pleasant sheltered from the wind, particularly gazing south
over Windermere and out to Morecambe Bay. Anyway, lunch over it was time to make a move,
particularly as the forecasted low cloud was beginning to envelope Helvellyn. Once packed, I
followed the path over Hart Crag and Dove Crag, stopping between the two Crags to admire the view
down into Dovedale. Once over Dove Crag, it was a gentle walk to High Pike, followed by a long
descent over Low Pike then on to Low Sweden Bridge. The snow had begun to thaw making it very slushy
on the way down. It was a short road-walk from Low Sweden Bridge back to the car park. My next stop
was the Dog and Gun in Keswick for a couple of Theakston's bitter and a very tasty Goulash.
Friday 30 - An Helvellyn circuit from Swirls car park.
Having visited Helvellyn from Glenridding a few times, I decided it was time to follow a route from
the Thirlmere side. The weather forecast wasn't particularly good for today, although the worst of
the weather wasn't expected until PM; rain at low-level and sleet/snow on the higher Fells. Not to
be deterred, I had another early start and was parking in the car park opposite Swirls at 0830. (I
was not going to pay to stay in Swirls car park) I had contemplated going straight up to Helvellyn
through Helvellyn Screes, to get the best of the weather on top, but didn't fancy a steep climb at
the start. So, sticking to my original plan, I joined the low level path through the woods to above
Wythburn car park. Continuing on, I stayed on the path to Raise Beck opposite Dunmail Raise. The
cloud base was about 2000ft, but as yet no rain. In fact, it was enjoyable walking through the
woods; even exciting as not long after joining the path I disturbed about 6 deer, which fled into
the woods below the path. (Not sure what breed, but they all had striking white bottoms) I turned
left at Raise Beck and followed the path up to Grisedale Tarn. Care was required on the way up as
much of the path was covered in ice. It felt rather eerie on reaching the Tarn with cloud on Seat
Sandal, Fairfield and Dollywaggon Pike ..... and no one else in sight. I was soon weaving my way up
the path to reach the west side of Dollywaggon Pike, where I met the full force of the wind. It was
time for jacket and leggings as the wind-chill was beginning to bite. I was soon underway again,
following the path around the western side of Nethermost Pike, stopping for photos between Helvellyn
and Nethermost Pike. The clouds cleared for a short while, showing Striding Edge in all its winter
splendour. Camera back in the pouch, it was up the final hill section to the wind-shelter on
Helvellyn. (Strange how the weather works, as on arriving at the shelter, the cloud base rose a
little giving some fine views east.) It was 1230 by the time I had finished lunch, and time to be on
the move again ... and back in the clouds once more. I had intended returning to Swirls via
Helvellyn Screes, but I thought it a little early to be going down considering it was only just past
midday. After consulting the map, I decided to continue north over Whiteside and Raise to Sticks
Pass. Great idea, but on the descent from Helvellyn Lower Man the sleet started, coupled with an
increase in wind speed. Fortunately I didn't feel cold; so on I plodded to Sticks Pass where I
turned left down to just above Stybeck Farm. To avoid too much road walking, I followed the path
left just above the farm that goes to Swirls car park. I left this path above Thirlspot farm and
descended to the road. It was then a short walk back to the car. It had been a long walk, 12.5 miles
with 4100ft of ascent, very wet for the last couple of hours, but still very enjoyable.
I had planned to walk on Saturday too, but the weather was foul with heavy prolonged rain forecast
all day with clouds down to valley level. Now, as much as I love walking on the Fells, I do like to
experience the scenery of the mountains at some point in the walk, not staring into hill fog for 5
or 6 hours! Well, I decided to call it a day and head off home on the Saturday morning. However,
Clare and I are back in the Lakes on the 28 Feb for a week, so still plenty of walking opportunities
to be had.
Photos from the 3 days are at the web address below.
Stats for the 3 days:
Distance covered: 32.6 miles Total ascent: 10,797ft
--
Sandy Saunders @ www.thewalkzone.co.uk
'Mountains or Mole Hills ... summiting still brings
the same excitement'