Well this is just a quick note of thanks to those of you who pass along your suggestions for creaking BB's to me. I went with this marine lube with copper particles and after 2 three hour rides the bike is still absolutely dead quite. Of course that may change after time and sweat seepage, but I'm hoping it remains quiet as the creaking really gets on my nerves, especially under stressful situations.
I used this lube on chainring bolts, cranks/spindle and shell threads. I also wrapped teflon tape around the seat tube at the front derailure junction just for good measure as it appears that maybe some of the contacts points may contribute to noise as well. It's a shame they don't do a final machining on the bore. The clamp casting is anything but a perfect circle.
I am concerned about the toxicity with this lube though, with all the warnings and all. I don't know what's in it and I don't like the idea of it getting into the ground via water. But I did use it sparingly, only on threads, counterbores and shoulders of bolts/cups.
I missed that thread - and also have a creaking BB. Can you tell me what kind of marine lube you used? Also, how did you apply it? Did you take the whole BB apart?
dcg
Quoted message said:
Well this is just a quick note of thanks to those of you who pass along your suggestions for creaking BB's to me. I went with this marine lube with copper particles and after 2 three hour rides the bike is still absolutely dead quite. Of course that may change after time and sweat seepage, but I'm hoping it remains quiet as the creaking really gets on my nerves, especially under stressful situations.
I used this lube on chainring bolts, cranks/spindle and shell threads. I also wrapped teflon tape around the seat tube at the front derailure junction just for good measure as it appears that maybe some of the contacts points may contribute to noise as well. It's a shame they don't do a final machining on the bore. The clamp casting is anything but a perfect circle.
I am concerned about the toxicity with this lube though, with all the warnings and all. I don't know what's in it and I don't like the idea of it getting into the ground via water. But I did use it sparingly, only on threads, counterbores and shoulders of bolts/cups.
i had creaking come from the BB area, and all i needed to do was tighten up my cranks and the creaking went away. wewh.
david
"dcg" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
I missed that thread - and also have a creaking BB. Can you tell me what kind of marine lube you used? Also, how did you apply it? Did you take the whole BB apart?
dcg
Quoted message said:
Well this is just a quick note of thanks to those of you who pass along your suggestions for creaking BB's to me. I went with this marine lube with copper particles and after 2 three hour rides the bike is still absolutely dead quite. Of course that may change after time and sweat seepage, but I'm hoping it remains quiet as the creaking really gets on my nerves, especially under stressful situations.
I used this lube on chainring bolts, cranks/spindle and shell threads. I also wrapped teflon tape around the seat tube at the front derailure junction just for good measure as it appears that maybe some of the contacts points may contribute to noise as well. It's a shame they don't do a final machining on the bore. The clamp casting is anything but a perfect circle.
I am concerned about the toxicity with this lube though, with all the warnings and all. I don't know what's in it and I don't like the idea of it getting into the ground via water. But I did use it sparingly, only on threads, counterbores and shoulders of bolts/cups.
"david" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
i had creaking come from the BB area, and all i needed to do was tighten up my cranks and the creaking went away. wewh.
I had the same problem and same solution today but wonder if there may be more to it. I ride a fixed wheel and noticed a creak on taking up drive and another when resisting forward motion. I imagine that on a new fangled freewheel machine that the pull on the chainwheel is in one direction only and so any mismatch of the bolt holes is less important. I wonder whether I would be wise not to lubricate the spider/ring joints so that any creaking can act as a warning that it is time to get the spanners out. Another thought is that I am the victim of my pathological obsession to cart about no more than I have to - I run a tiny chainring (32T) to tiny cog (13). Is this setup putting excessive leverage on the chainring bolts? (I can't get my head around the geometry and physics of this!)
dcg <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
I missed that thread - and also have a creaking BB. Can you tell me what kind of marine lube you used? Also, how did you apply it? Did you take the whole BB apart?
dcg
Sorry I didn't include the brand. It's "Star Brite" anti-seize thread lubricant with copper. It was about 6 buks @ 1 oz weight. Because of all the warnings I handled this stuff with latex gloves. I was very careful to only apply where needed, that is, on threads and shoulders only. I didn't apply it on the chainring screw bodies or any of the chainring/spider interfaces, which were kept dry and clean. I used a toothpick to apply to all surfaces mentioned.
I've put many more hours of solid riding on this assembly and it's still absolutely solid/quiet. Man, it gives you the confidence that everything is ok, so no worries with the equipment. Just GO!
Oh, I did disassemble the whole BB, the whole bike for that matter. It's Zen for me.
It might be wise to disassemble, periodically, mated parts made of aluminum alloys which are in contact with the copper-containing lube.
When dissimilar metals are electrically connected in the presence of an electolyte (impure water) there is a good change that galvanic corrosion will result. I have an aluminum boat which stays in the water year round in a fresh water inland lake. There are underwater machinery parts of bronze which absolutely MUST be electrically isolated from the aluminum hull or corrosion of the hull results. Most marine anti-fouling paints contain copper compunds. The use of any of these on this hull will cause tragic results.
Keep a close watch on this. When there is galvanic corrosion, you will notice pitting of the aluminun surfaces.
Cal
(JZWest) said:
dcg <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
I missed that thread - and also have a creaking BB. Can you tell me what kind of marine lube you used? Also, how did you apply it? Did you take the whole BB apart?
dcg
Sorry I didn't include the brand. It's "Star Brite" anti-seize thread lubricant with copper. It was about 6 buks @ 1 oz weight. Because of all the warnings I handled this stuff with latex gloves. I was very careful to only apply where needed, that is, on threads and shoulders only. I didn't apply it on the chainring screw bodies or any of the chainring/spider interfaces, which were kept dry and clean. I used a toothpick to apply to all surfaces mentioned.
I've put many more hours of solid riding on this assembly and it's still absolutely solid/quiet. Man, it gives you the confidence that everything is ok, so no worries with the equipment. Just GO!
Oh, I did disassemble the whole BB, the whole bike for that matter. It's Zen for me.
