Could I use a tap and die set to add threads to a threadless fork?

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by veganheart
I am trying to buy a carbon fork on ebay. I want to buy a threaded fork but most of them are threadless it seems. Could I use a tap and die set to add threads to a threadless fork?

thx


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😎 😄 :p 🙂

I wouldn't cutting that many threads is a job for a pro with the right tools. Many steel threadless steerers are not thick enough, and it should not be attempted with an aluminum steerer. Keep looking, as there are plenty of them around,otherwise suck it up and go threadless.

your best bet is to upgrade to a threadless system.although you can find carbon forks out there with threaded steer tubes if you look hard enough.

If you don't want to buy a headset for a threadless fork you can file the threads out of the threaded cone and use it as a threadless headset. Of course you will have to buy a new stem for threadless.

You can but don´t it´ll make the steerer too weak , just accept that it´s an extra charge to the mounting costs of upgrading .

Yeah, this is easy. Just get a Park Threading Tool.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by BaCardi
Yeah, this is easy. Just get a Park Threading Tool.

More hooey.The majority of unthreaded steel steerers are too thin and it it shouldn't even be considered with aluminum.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
More hooey.The majority of unthreaded steel steerers are too thin and it it shouldn't even be considered with aluminum.

nope.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
More hooey.The majority of unthreaded steel steerers are too thin and it it shouldn't even be considered with aluminum.

More evidence to show that this guy is full of his own hooey and doens't know what he's talking about. Good try though!

If the steering column is carbon or aluminum, it should not be threaded. However, if the column is steel and has the correct sizing, it can be threaded. For the 1-inch for, the OD needs to be 1-inch and the ID should be about 22.25 or 22.3mm. For the 1-1/8 inch for, the OD is 28.6mm, and the ID must be 25.55 to 25.6mm. Too thin of wall will not be safe to thread and use.

A good shop should be able to do this for you using a die, such as http://www.parktool.com/tools/FTS_1.shtml

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by BaCardi
More evidence to show that this guy is full of his own hooey and doens't know what he's talking about. Good try though!

Well genius.....blow you hooey somewhere else and take a read on what the Park tool expert has to say about it. LOL

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by Calvin Jones
If the steering column is carbon or aluminum, it should not be threaded. However, if the column is steel and has the correct sizing, it can be threaded. For the 1-inch for, the OD needs to be 1-inch and the ID should be about 22.25 or 22.3mm. http://www.parktool.com/tools/FTS_1.shtml

Yeah, The 2 steel ones I checked measure 22mm or slightly less ID. It's not rocket science, and I could tell just by looking that the wall thickness was less than the threaded ones. Good to have a guy with the actual numbers around. Much more valuable than a hooey slinger.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
Well genius.....blow you hooey somewhere else and take a read on what the Park tool expert has to say about it. LOL

uuuuhhhhh yeeeaahhhh rrriiiiiiiggggghhhtttt!

Keep your hooey where the hooey don't shine! Geez! 🙄

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by BaCardi
uuuuhhhhh yeeeaahhhh rrriiiiiiiggggghhhtttt!

Keep your hooey where the hooey don't shine! Geez! 🙄

Well, that's a pretty lame comeback from one that has been outed as a certified card carrying hooeymonger. Your laminated wallet card and bronzed wall plaque are in the mail...gratis

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
Well, that's a pretty lame comeback from one that has been outed as a certified card carrying hooeymonger. Your laminated wallet card and bronzed wall plaque are in the mail...gratis

Dude, did you even bother reading the entire thread? Have you even cut any threads in a steerer yourself? Talk about lame!

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by BaCardi
Dude, did you even bother reading the entire thread?

It's obvious you haven't, or have a comprehension problem,but I won't feed the troll anymore.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
It's obvious you haven't, or have a comprehension problem,but I won't feed the troll anymore.

This is freaking hilarious. Because I have done this procedure and if you would READ this thread others have done it also! So, might as well quit while you're behind and claiming to be troll stalked. :p

READ BRO!

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
Yeah, The 2 steel ones I checked measure 22mm or slightly less ID. It's not rocket science, and I could tell just by looking that the wall thickness was less than the threaded ones. Good to have a guy with the actual numbers around. Much more valuable than a hooey slinger.

I'll correct myself before someone else hits me between the eyes with it. The ones I measured are actually 22.2 mm and given Calvins guidelines have enough wall thickness to thread. The advice about aluminum stands, and for steel it's a maybe depending on wall thickness.Still not as simple as suggested that one just grab a tool and do it.I have 2 steel steerers that were theaded by an apparent hack with 10 thumbs and a dull,broken, or improper tool.The threads are barely functional, and look like they were done by a monkey with a broken file and are so rough as to damage soft aluminum threaded onto them. Still probably a job for someone that really knows what they are doing.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by BaCardi
and if you would READ this thread others have done it also!

others...in this thread? Quote it, other than Calvin the Park too guy.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by boudreaux
The threads are barely functional, and look like they were done by a monkey with a broken file and are so rough as to damage soft aluminum threaded onto them. Still probably a job for someone that really knows what they are doing.

EXACTLY! "A job for somebody who knows what they are doing." You were up to your old tricks before when you advised the guy that it was basically undoable based on your own personal experiences that now you claim was a botched job. GEEZ! The irony of it all! But keep it going, its funny watching you backtrack! Back! Back! Back! Back! 😄