Equipement for Heavy Rider

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by carffp
I have not ridden a bike in a long time, but since I can no longer run (bad knees) I am getting back into riding. I am 5-11 and 230. Heavy dude with the lack of running the last few months!!

I want to get a good road bike and may get into some recreational racing - but the main focus is exercise. My price point is around $1200 - $1500.

For my build:
What is a good frame (aluminum, steel, composite)?
What are good wheels?
Will Ultegra be enough or too much?

Any help would be appreciated. I am VERY eager to get riding and realize that I have some testing to do - but some recommendations on where to start should help me reduce the field!!!

Thanks again.

Cannondale, Trek and Specialized all make good bikes at that price point, and they are readily available at most bike shops. All three manufacturers have aluminum frames, and usually come equipped with at least carbon forks to absorb some of the "jarring" ride charatersitics of aluminum.

I am not a small guy at 195, and like the stiffness of my Cannondale. I've added carbon bars, stem and seatpost to add a little more "give" and comfort in the ride while shaving off a little bit of weight to make the hills seem smaller.

As far as components go, Ultegra would not be too much, although if your main focus is exercise and fitness a nice 105 group would suit you just as well. Both groups are Flightdeck compatible, and offer some of the technology that you'll find in the Dura Ace 9 group.

My best advice is to visit your LBS and ask questions. A good bike shop will be able to find a bike with geometry that fits you, and a good component set in your price range. Starting with a good set of components on a bike is certainly less expensive than upgrading later. I know from experience.

Since I've already rambled on too long, get a good professional fit and let the LBS find you a bike. A good bike shop will sell you a bike that fits you and your price range, not one that will help the size of their wallet.

Happy trails.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by carffp
I have not ridden a bike in a long time, but since I can no longer run (bad knees) I am getting back into riding. I am 5-11 and 230. Heavy dude with the lack of running the last few months!!

I want to get a good road bike and may get into some recreational racing - but the main focus is exercise. My price point is around $1200 - $1500.

For my build:
What is a good frame (aluminum, steel, composite)?
What are good wheels?
Will Ultegra be enough or too much?

Any help would be appreciated. I am VERY eager to get riding and realize that I have some testing to do - but some recommendations on where to start should help me reduce the field!!!

Thanks again.

You are not that heavy! Don't worry much about frame materials.
Ultegra components are great. With the devalued dollar you might end up with 105 in your price range.
Get a good fit including a saddle that you will want to ride as far as you will ever ride.
Work with a shop that will help you get a comfortable position.
Well built wheels and bigger tires are important. I would start with 28 mm wide tires. Some bicycles today won't handle tires as wide as 28mm. I would avoid them....
Get wheels with 32 or 36 spokes that have at least been hand finished. Stress relieved spokes, spoke aligned, and tension balanced are all requirements for durable wheels.
Make sure your brakes are properly adjusted.

I too am a heavy rider (230), but I'm working on getting that down a bit. The best advice I can give you is the same as others. Go see your LBS. But if the only type of fit they offer you is to adjust your seat and let you take a test ride, run as fast as you can to another bike shop.
My first road bike was a 99 Bianchi Eros and this is exactly the fit I got. I like the bike but it took a lot of tweaking on my own to get it right.
I just bought a Guru Cron Alu from a different shop and it took nearly three hours to take all of the measurements and make the necessary adjustments to get a great fit. We even swapped out seat posts and stems to get just the right setup. The first time I rode it, it was like a dream. Fit is definitely important.
Ultegra is nice, but 105 is definitely enough unless you plan to do quite a few centuries or an Ironman or two.
I like aluminum, but I would definitely go for the carbon fork as it will give you a bit more shock absorbsion. Saddles are also really important for comfort. Spend a couple extra dollars and upgrade the saddle, you'll thank me.
Hope that helps.

I'm a 6'4", 230lb (though when I'm good it's more like 215) road rider so you're not alone.

All the others gave you good advice, but I wanted to toss in another reminder. We're probably too heavy for the lightest of lightweight components (for example, the wicked light speedplay pedals have a limit of 185lbs), so that gives you a good excuse not to spend the dough. Besides, we're so big, what difference will a few grams on the bike make 😄

Also, I've been riding on a 1992 vintage 105 group for 12 years now, and it's been just dandy. There's some argument that the 105 of yesterday is about the same quality as the ultegra of today, but I don't know if that's true or not. Might just be us retro-grouches trying to convince ourselves that they don't make em like they used to.

Head down to your LBS, tell them what you want to spend, and see what they can do. In all reality, for a recreational rider $12-1500 is more than enough. You might also want to consider going used too (a bike that was $1300 2 years ago will be $6-700 now, or a bike that was $2700 2 years ago will be $1500 now), but make sure you buy a used bike from a shop, so you can make sure you get fit properly and all that jazz.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by stealie72
Also, I've been riding on a 1992 vintage 105 group for 12 years now, and it's been just dandy. There's some argument that the 105 of yesterday is about the same quality as the ultegra of today, but I don't know if that's true or not. Might just be us retro-grouches trying to convince ourselves that they don't make em like they used to.

I thought it was the other way around. Doesn't last years Dura Ace trickle down to the next years Ultegra and so on down the line? I suppose your 12 year old stuff is a different animal alltogether though from today's stuff.

I'm also of the bigger builds, being 6'3" and a good 98kg's on a light day, and I ended up buying a 2nd hand Litespeed Titanium since the previous alu bike didn't like me much. Get a comfy saddle!! Oh and Campy Centaur as a groupset should not be overlooked in the budget range (and it offers 10speed for those really nasty hills).

Just my 2c...

Thanks for your responses. I am specifically looking at the follow new bike:

Specialize Roubaix or Roubaix elite
Trek 1500, 2100 or 2200

Your thoughts?

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by carffp
Thanks for your responses. I am specifically looking at the follow new bike:

Specialize Roubaix or Roubaix elite
Trek 1500, 2100 or 2200


Your thoughts?

I looked up the manufacturers sites on these bicycles.
I don't like the wheels on any of your choices due to the "botique" styles and radial spoking of the fron wheels.
Fit is #1
Will they have room for 28 mm tires?
The wheels on TREK 1200 look better to me than any of the above.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by daveornee
I looked up the manufacturers sites on these bicycles.
I don't like the wheels on any of your choices due to the "botique" styles and radial spoking of the fron wheels.
Fit is #1
Will they have room for 28 mm tires?
The wheels on TREK 1200 look better to me than any of the above.

The Bontrager Select/Race on the Trek 2100/2200 are pretty tough wheels. I have a 2300 (with the Bontrager Race Lites) and I am 6'3" 200lbs and I am not easy on the wheels at all (Texas Gates everywhere on the rural highways here in Alberta, Canada. If you know what they are then you will know how hard they are on wheels). I have put several thousand km's on them. True, and straight as the day they were purchased. I believe the Bontrager races and selects are slightly heavier and may even be slighly sturdier.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by daveornee
I looked up the manufacturers sites on these bicycles.
I don't like the wheels on any of your choices due to the "botique" styles and radial spoking of the fron wheels.
Fit is #1
Will they have room for 28 mm tires?
The wheels on TREK 1200 look better to me than any of the above.

You don't necessarily need the 28mm tires for the bike. I ride 23mm at 195, and have ridden 28's on my touring bikes. There is a difference in how they roll. The 23's are a lot smoother, and if kept properly inflated before every ride, the wheels should be just fine.

The Trek 2200 would be a nice choice with the Ultegra components and the carbon seat stays for extra comfort.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by waterboy420
You don't necessarily need the 28mm tires for the bike. I ride 23mm at 195, and have ridden 28's on my touring bikes. There is a difference in how they roll. The 23's are a lot smoother, and if kept properly inflated before every ride, the wheels should be just fine.

The Trek 2200 would be a nice choice with the Ultegra components and the carbon seat stays for extra comfort.

It wouldn't hurt if the bicycle could fit 28 mm tires.
You can always fit smaller tires if you wish.
If the frame won't fit 28 mm tires, you won't be able to use them.
For more on Bicycle Tire Rolling Resistance refer to:
http://tinyurl.com/3g3ox

The most important issue is still getting the bicycle to fit you correctly.
Components and frame materials are secondary.

Like everybody else said, going to the lbs is your best shot, and I wouldn't buy a bike the first time in the shop. Take a couple of weeks, and do your homework. The one thing that has been said that is incorrect is that some bikes with smaller tires/fewer spokes, won't work for your size. That is just not true. I'm 6ft 295lbs and my trek 1500 has stood up just fine. I've had some flats but so does everyone. I've got over some rather tough roads and bumps and the bike has held up fine. My trek 1500 is my first road bike and I just love it. I don't think I could ever go back to riding moutain bikes. I've got about 800 miles on my 1500 and I wouldn't change anything.

One thing you should do is save some money on the bike so you can do a couple of addons. I haven't tried to find a bike seat I like although I need one, but getting some bebop pedals and some top of the line sidi road shoes have made a world of difference for me and my hotspots.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by carffp
I have not ridden a bike in a long time, but since I can no longer run (bad knees) I am getting back into riding. I am 5-11 and 230. Heavy dude with the lack of running the last few months!!

I want to get a good road bike and may get into some recreational racing - but the main focus is exercise. My price point is around $1200 - $1500.

For my build:
What is a good frame (aluminum, steel, composite)?
What are good wheels?
Will Ultegra be enough or too much?

Any help would be appreciated. I am VERY eager to get riding and realize that I have some testing to do - but some recommendations on where to start should help me reduce the field!!!

Thanks again.

I have found a shop to get 04 Cannondale R1000 for a great price. What are your thoughts on that bike?

I'm surprised at everybody skipping over Specialized to this point. I'm 6' 240 lbs. I've been riding a Specialized Allez Sport for a year now, and haven't had a single problem. With Specialized, you're going to get the best bang for your buck. My Bike was in the $800 price point, and came with carbon fork and seat post, as well as 105 rear deraileur. If you take a step up from mine, the Allez elite has a full 105 setup, with specialized's new pave advanced seatpost, which has an elastomer built in for a smoother ride. That falls in the $1000 range. I'm riding the original wheels that came with my bike, and haven't had a problem yet. The 105 setup would be plenty for recreational riding, and I use my current setup in Triathlon's as well, and I'm not at too much of a Bike-related disadvantage. In that price range, you'd have some room to get some accessories, aero bars (if you're going to be doing a lot of long straight riding/triathlons), a nice set of pedals (I recommend speedplay X series pedals, they are a little more expensive than some pedal systems out there, but it's what all the pro's use, and they are by far the best feel I've experienced in road pedals.) and shoes (I ride Specialized body geometry, great feeling shoes). You also could think about a nice set of Mavic Wheels, the Ksyrium line starts at about $350 for a set, and they are great wheels, plenty strong for you. I'm riding 23c tires, Which have never given me any trouble, so I wouldn't worry too much about getting 28's.

Also, don't rule out something like a Cervelo, It's the second most used bike at Ironman Hawaii, and they will have some bikes that will fall nicely in your price range with some good setups, and aero tubing. Great bikes.

Just as my personal opinion, I would avoid Crack'NFail (oops, I mean cannondale) simply because they have been teetering on the edge of extinction, and have had some quality issues in recent years. And Treks are overhyped, and overpriced (Lance Armstrong wouldn't even ride a trek in the tour until recent years, it's well known that he prefers to ride lightspeed bikes, and they paint Trek Logos on them)

Anyway, enough ranting my personal opinions, all in all, I would highly recommend a specialized, and maybe even give a cervelo a peek.

Quoted post said:

Originally posted by carffp
I have not ridden a bike in a long time, but since I can no longer run (bad knees) I am getting back into riding. I am 5-11 and 230. Heavy dude with the lack of running the last few months!!

I want to get a good road bike and may get into some recreational racing - but the main focus is exercise. My price point is around $1200 - $1500.

For my build:
What is a good frame (aluminum, steel, composite)?
What are good wheels?
Will Ultegra be enough or too much?

Any help would be appreciated. I am VERY eager to get riding and realize that I have some testing to do - but some recommendations on where to start should help me reduce the field!!!

Thanks again.

I am a heavy rider as well....6'2" 260. I got caught up in Road Riding a bit ago and so of went the Light is better route. I have broke a few things in the process but here is what I learned.

Stay away from TI except in non-loadbearing situations (bottle cage bolts, ect) of course frames are very strong in TI so that is ok.

Use a good seat post. Try to stick with a 2 bolt design.

Watch for weight limits....Pedals...BB....

Carbon now days is your friend. Most of my bike is carbon and I have had few problems with it....

http://www.vsstech.net/biff/my_ride.jpg

One intresting thing I have been trying is these new type of Tires. Tufo Tubluar Clinchers. The have no tube but fit in a clincher style rim. So you do not have any pinch flats. You can air them up to 170 pounds (I run them at 130). I have been having very good luck so far......300 miles and counting....

Hope this helps....

and of course this is my opinion only....

🙂

Biff

I wonder, if you ever did biking regularly? and if not, You know
what you are getting into ?

Even not knowing all the background it is great, that you are back to sport and chose biking?

Anyway, the most important probably is, that you get the best introduction possible. For this, and you are absolutely right a well fitting equipment is very important.

I would say, that independently on all our comments on this site, for sure you have a buddy around, or a serious professional near to your home, who is cycling or is in the cycling business and could give you some advise to be able to fix your own standards.

I would sit together and talk about the topic and sit and ride on a few bikes and get a feeling. It is like buying a car, test it first. This also because things have changed a lot in the last years, becoming more sophisticated and technical.

You might at the beginning not necessarily know what you want, but certainly you will quickly find out what you do not want.

I wish you a good start.

I am about your size and would go with a steel frame, as these have always served me well (I still have my Fuji Sagres with over 10,000 miles on it. Ebay has a steel Fuji for about $360, yea it has a freewheel and a less expensive drive system but mine is similar and lasted long! You can get a new freewheel, chain, and chainring for about 65 bucks.

I don't feel safe using clip style pedals on the street and suggest that if you haven't used them and are returning to cycling that you don't either as you are may need put your foot down fast to stay rubber side down. Regular old pedals start at about $10.

When rebuilding wheels and non cartridge bottom brackets always use regular balls to build up the bearings. Caged ball bearing rings will get torn up with your weight(I should know as I learned this the hard way)

If you go with a big bucks bike any of your high line groups.....
Shimano 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace, Campy Chorous, Record will do the job.

Always check for bearing looseness and keep everything in adjustment, and learn to adjust spokes and keep you wheels true.

I have been riding my steel Serotta Colorado 2 with Campy C record group for 2 years now with almost no needed maintenance despite the fact that Campy "disclaims" for riders over 170Lb. Great frame, Great Groupo.

Welcome Back! Vinnie

Quoted post said:

I don't feel safe using clip style pedals on the street and suggest that if you haven't used them and are returning to cycling that you don't either as you are may need put your foot down fast to stay rubber side down. Regular old pedals start at about $10.

I recently started using Power Grip straps (avail from nashbar and I think rivendell); they are firm and adjustable straps that run diagonally across your standard pedal. You exit much like you would with clipless pedals (turn to an angle), but I've had no problem exiting in a hurry at sudden stops, etc, even when I just pull out backwards. Great for commuting, probably awful for racing. 🙂