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Newbie question: cleats on recumbents

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Recumbent bicycles
Published
12 May 2004
Last activity
11 June 2004
Original author
Flm
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57
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  1. Hello all:

    So I have my first recumbent, a BikeE E2.

    My question regards the use of cleated shoes/pedals on
    recumbents. I have not seen much discussion of this. Cleats
    would seem to be a good idea as I wouldn't have to fight
    against gravity to keep my foot on the pedal. However, I am
    concerned that cleats would be more difficult to get in/out
    of on a bent than an upright. Oh, and just to make me a
    double newbie, please note that I have not used cleats
    before either, on any type of bike.

    So: Cleats on a bent: is it a good idea? Can you get in/out
    of them quickly? What brand of cleat would you recommend?

    See you on RAGBRAI, -Frank

  2. FLM said:

    Hello all:

    So I have my first recumbent, a BikeE E2.

    Is that the tandem? Lucky you.

    Quoted message said:

    My question regards the use of cleated shoes/pedals on
    recumbents. I have not seen much discussion of this.

    Try a search of google groups (www.google.co.uk/groups).
    There have been discussions of this in the past.

    Quoted message said:

    Cleats would seem to be a good idea as I wouldn't have to
    fight against gravity to keep my foot on the pedal.
    However, I am concerned that cleats would be more
    difficult to get in/out of on a bent than an upright. Oh,
    and just to make me a double newbie, please note that I
    have not used cleats before either, on any type of bike.

    So: Cleats on a bent: is it a good idea?

    Cleats on a bent are a fantastic idea. Even more so than on
    a 'normal' bike. Partly for the reason you discovered, and
    partly because on some recumbents, if you put your foot on
    the ground whilst you're moving it can get caught awkwardly
    and mangled. ('Leg/foot suck - sounds more appealing than it
    actually is'😉.

    I don't think this is an issue on my 'bent, and possibly not
    on yours either. But I've never fancied doing the
    experiment, hence clipless.

    Quoted message said:

    Can you get in/out of them quickly?

    I can. I also <boast> never fell over after I bought mine,
    though I fell over often enough learning to ride.

    Quoted message said:

    What brand of cleat would you recommend?

    Looking at your bike, I imagine you're into touring /
    pleasure rides? Get shoes and cleats that you can walk in. I
    use SPDs & Shimano 324's, others will differ.

    You can get pedals that are platforms on one side, and take
    cleats on the other. These can be a good compromise, if you
    sometimes want to wear 'normal' shoes, or if friends, family
    and strangers want to have a go.

    Have fun,

    AC

    Quoted message said:

    See you on RAGBRAI, -Frank

  3. As BBs get higher then leg-suck becomes more likely. Cleats
    prevent leg-suck.

    "FLM" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...
    | Hello all:
    |
    | So I have my first recumbent, a BikeE E2.
    |
    | My question regards the use of cleated shoes/pedals on
    | recumbents. I have not seen much discussion of this.
    | Cleats would seem to be a good idea as I wouldn't have to
    | fight against gravity to keep my foot on the pedal.
    | However, I am concerned that cleats would be more
    | difficult to get in/out of on a bent than an upright. Oh,
    | and just to make me a double newbie, please note that I
    | have not used cleats before either, on any type of bike.
    |
    | So: Cleats on a bent: is it a good idea? Can you get
    | in/out of them quickly? What brand of cleat would you
    | recommend?
    |
    | See you on RAGBRAI, -Frank

  4. "FLM" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hello all:

    So I have my first recumbent, a BikeE E2.

    My question regards the use of cleated shoes/pedals on
    recumbents. I have not seen much discussion of this.
    Cleats would seem to be a good idea as I wouldn't have to
    fight against gravity to keep my foot on the pedal.
    However, I am concerned that cleats would be more
    difficult to get in/out of on a bent than an upright. Oh,
    and just to make me a double newbie, please note that I
    have not used cleats before either, on any type of bike.

    So: Cleats on a bent: is it a good idea?

    Yes it was the best thing I ever bought for my bent

    Quoted message said:

    Can you get in/out of them quickly?

    Yes

    Quoted message said:

    What brand of cleat would you recommend?

    Good question, Eggbeaters

    Quoted message said:


    See you on RAGBRAI, -Frank

  5. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Flm
    Hello all:

    So I have my first recumbent, a BikeE E2.

    So: Cleats on a bent: is it a good idea? Can you get in/out
    of them quickly? What brand of cleat would you recommend?

    See you on RAGBRAI, -Frank

    I use toe clips with straps on my BikeE. (5$) If I'm touring, I crank them tight, and I can't imagine a clipless job holding my foot much more securely, although I know many swear by them.

    The toeclip release is very easy, on a 'bent even more so, because the foot is more horizontal than vertical, thus gravity allows you to kick down easily and "fall" out of the clips when desired.

    After reading about how riders have their first inevitable falls adjusting to clipless pedals, I opted for this more low-tech solution, works great for me.

  6. No SPD-R! Death! Fear! They need lots of downward pressure
    to disengage.

    I like my Shimano look style cleats on my SWB. Not really
    walkable, but you won't break your ankle either.

    "FLM" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Hello all:

    So I have my first recumbent, a BikeE E2.

    My question regards the use of cleated shoes/pedals on
    recumbents. I have not seen much discussion of this.
    Cleats would seem to be a good idea as I wouldn't have to
    fight against gravity to keep my foot on the pedal.
    However, I am concerned that cleats would be more
    difficult to get in/out of on a bent than an upright. Oh,
    and just to make me a double newbie, please note that I
    have not used cleats before either, on any type of bike.

    So: Cleats on a bent: is it a good idea? Can you get
    in/out of them quickly? What brand of cleat would you
    recommend?

    See you on RAGBRAI, -Frank

  7. John Duval said:

    No SPD-R! Death! Fear! They need lots of downward pressure
    to disengage.

    I use the (now discontinued) Ultegra SPD-R pedals on my V-
    Rex and Volae Team without problems. I find them easy to get
    in and out of. But you *must* keep the three little top
    plate screws snugged up tight; if you let them get even a
    little loose they can make it very difficult to disengage
    your shoe.

    But as much as I like the pedals, there's no point to
    recommend them since Shimano has now discontinued the whole
    SPD-R line.

    Rick Moll

  8. Doug Huffman said:

    As BBs get higher then leg-suck becomes more likely.
    Cleats prevent leg-suck.

    <pedant> I would have thought that leg-suck would become
    more likely as the cyclist becomes more reclined (i.e. high
    bottom bracket) and lower to the ground. I have a very high
    bottom bracket, but I don't think I could get 'leg-suck'. Is
    there any way to be sure? </pedant (sorry)>

    AC

  9. anonymous coward said:
    Doug Huffman said:

    As BBs get higher then leg-suck becomes more likely.
    Cleats prevent leg-suck.

    <pedant> I would have thought that leg-suck would become
    more likely as the cyclist becomes more reclined (i.e.
    high bottom bracket) and lower to the ground. I have a
    very high bottom bracket, but I don't think I could get
    'leg-suck'. Is there any way to be sure? </pedant (sorry)>

    That's a good point, I'm much more concerned about leg suck
    when I ride one of our Greenspeed trikes than when I'm on my
    big wheel Volae. Although there is also the issue of loss of
    control should your feet slip off. Consequently, I wouldn't
    even consider riding any of my recumbents without cleated
    pedals; although I do occasionally ride a mountain bike in
    tennis shoes or hiking boots.

  10. "Rick Moll" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    anonymous coward said:
    Doug Huffman said:

    As BBs get higher then leg-suck becomes more likely.
    Cleats prevent leg-suck.

    <pedant> I would have thought that leg-suck would become
    more likely as the


    cyclist

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    becomes more reclined (i.e. high bottom bracket) and
    lower to the


    ground.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I have a very high bottom bracket, but I don't think I
    could get 'leg-suck'. Is there any way to be sure?
    </pedant (sorry)>

    That's a good point, I'm much more concerned about leg
    suck when I ride one of our Greenspeed trikes than when
    I'm on my big wheel Volae. Although there is also the
    issue of loss of control should your feet slip off.
    Consequently, I wouldn't even consider riding any of my
    recumbents without cleated pedals; although I do
    occasionally ride a mountain bike in tennis shoes or
    hiking boots.

    Leg suck, as I understand it, is when a foot comes off
    the pedal, hits the ground, takes a bad bounce, and goes
    under the rear wheel which sucks your leg under the bike.
    Really Ugly.

    I would say a tall high bb bike that only provided tip toe
    contact with the ground, such as a Volae might, would be
    least likely to suck. By the same token the high bottom
    bracket bike would seem to the best candidate to have an
    unrestrained foot slip off the pedal which, at speed,
    creates immediate loss of stability (big time). Cleated
    pedals keep your feet on the pedals where they belong when
    they need to be there. They are arguably your most important
    safely accessory on a recumbent. My advice - don't leave
    home without them.

    skip

  11. skip said:

    Leg suck, as I understand it, is when a foot comes off
    the pedal, hits the ground, takes a bad bounce, and goes
    under the rear wheel which sucks your leg under the bike.
    Really Ugly.

    It doesn't have to take a bounce. Leg suck is when your
    foot, for whatever reason, makes contact with the ground,
    then, as our feet are trained to do, 'grabs ground'. As the
    bike passes on, that snaps the foot and leg backward
    relative to the bike, doing major damage to the leg.

    The foot doesn't have to bounce and it doesn't have to have
    anything to do with the rear wheel. If it gets that far
    back, you do have a serious problem...

    Curtis L. Russell Odenton, MD (USA) Just someone on
    two wheels...

  12. "Curtis L. Russell" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    skip said:

    Leg suck, as I understand it, is when a foot comes off
    the pedal, hits


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    ground, takes a bad bounce, and goes under the rear wheel
    which sucks


    your

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    leg under the bike. Really Ugly.

    It doesn't have to take a bounce. Leg suck is when your
    foot, for whatever reason, makes contact with the ground,
    then, as our feet are trained to do, 'grabs ground'. As
    the bike passes on, that snaps the foot and leg backward
    relative to the bike, doing major damage to the leg.

    The foot doesn't have to bounce and it doesn't have to
    have anything to do with the rear wheel. If it gets that
    far back, you do have a serious problem...

    When my foot came off the pedal, while spinning at speed, my
    leg bounced upward on impact and a bit toward the side away
    from the bike (I think - this all happend in an instant).
    Maybe it was a lucky bounce for me because my foot never
    'grabbed ground'. I was on a low bottom bracket lwb Ryan
    where my foot could reach ground with plenty to spare. Even
    though I didn't get sucked I did experience severe lack of
    stability as a result of this situation.

    Cleated pedals are the answer.

    skip

    P.S. This happened when the recumbent was new. Even though
    I was experienced at riding uprights with cleated
    pedals I just couldn't wait to try this new machine
    out and see how stable it was at speed. Instead I
    found out how unstable it could become.

  13. "skip" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Curtis L. Russell" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    skip said:

    Leg suck, as I understand it, is when a foot comes off
    the pedal, hits


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    ground, takes a bad bounce, and goes under the rear
    wheel which sucks


    your

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    leg under the bike. Really Ugly.

    It doesn't have to take a bounce. Leg suck is when your
    foot, for whatever reason, makes contact with the
    ground, then, as our feet are trained to do, 'grabs
    ground'. As the bike passes on, that snaps the foot and
    leg backward relative to the bike, doing major damage to
    the leg.

    The foot doesn't have to bounce and it doesn't have to
    have anything to do with the rear wheel. If it gets that
    far back, you do have a serious problem...

    When my foot came off the pedal, while spinning at speed,
    my leg bounced upward on impact and a bit toward the side
    away from the bike (I think - this all happend in an
    instant). Maybe it was a lucky bounce for me


    because

    Quoted message said:

    my foot never 'grabbed ground'. I was on a low bottom
    bracket lwb Ryan where my foot could reach ground with
    plenty to spare. Even though I


    didn't

    Quoted message said:

    get sucked I did experience severe lack of stability as a
    result of this situation.

    Cleated pedals are the answer.

    Cleated pedals are surely the answer when you are into
    performance cycling. This is true no matter how low or how
    high the BB. However, if you are just poking along then it
    is not necessary to have cleated pedals. You will be
    spinning slower and with less pressure and will have plenty
    of time to react if your foot slips off the pedal.

    Quoted message said:

    skip

    P.S. This happened when the recumbent was new. Even
    though I was experienced at riding uprights with
    cleated pedals I just couldn't wait to try this new
    machine out and see how stable it was at speed.
    Instead I


    found

    Quoted message said:

    out how unstable it could become.

    All recumbents are terrifically unstable when compared to
    uprights. Therefore, it behooves us to use caution when
    operating these contraptions otherwise known as recumbents.
    I find lately that I am gravitating more and more to my
    recumbent trikes because I am growing weary of combating the
    constant instability of 2 wheel recumbents.

    --
    Ed Dolan - Minnesota

  14. "Edward Dolan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    All recumbents are terrifically unstable when compared to
    uprights. Therefore, it behooves us to use caution when
    operating these contraptions otherwise known as
    recumbents. I find lately that I am gravitating more


    and

    Quoted message said:

    more to my recumbent trikes because I am growing weary of
    combating the constant instability of 2 wheel recumbents.

    Actually I find the Ryan a terrifically stable bike as long
    as one follows a few simple rules such as keeping your feet
    on the bike if it's moving. If I'm going downhill at 45 mph
    on an upright I'm a worried man. My imagination is filled
    with all sorts of grotesque things that could go wrong and
    send me hurtling down the mountain head first and face down.
    On the other hand the Ryan is so stable at that speed and
    I'm so relaxed that I find myself wishing I could twist a
    throttle and pick up another 10 or so mph. Same for the GRR.
    These are exceptionally stable bikes that handle beautifully
    at high speed (and low speed too in the Ryan's case). I do
    not feel the need for a trike's stability. That day is sure
    to come, but it's not here yet.

    skip

  15. Quoted post said:

    Originally posted by Flm
    Hello all:

    So I have my first recumbent, a BikeE E2.

    My question regards the use of cleated shoes/pedals on
    recumbents. I have not seen much discussion of this. Cleats
    would seem to be a good idea as I wouldn't have to fight
    against gravity to keep my foot on the pedal. However, I am
    concerned that cleats would be more difficult to get in/out
    of on a bent than an upright. Oh, and just to make me a
    double newbie, please note that I have not used cleats
    before either, on any type of bike.

    So: Cleats on a bent: is it a good idea? Can you get in/out
    of them quickly? What brand of cleat would you recommend?

    See you on RAGBRAI, -Frank

    I've never experienced leg suck, but it sounds scary.
    There is a decided performance advantage to cleats, but there is a learning curve to achieving this advantage. Having the foot fixed to the pedal enables you to power through the entire circle rather than just pushing on the pedals. You need to practice pedalling in circles, thinking about applying power throughout. I do this periodically by unclipping one foot( at low speed) and pedalling with the other.
    I was used to cleats on a mountain bike before using them on a recumbent, but even so, I have taken a few tumbles, being unable to disengage when stopping.
    I use one sided cleated pedals (platforms on the other) and usually only engage the cleats when on the road at speed.

  16. "skip" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Edward Dolan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    All recumbents are terrifically unstable when compared
    to uprights. Therefore, it behooves us to use caution
    when operating these


    contraptions

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    otherwise known as recumbents. I find lately that I am
    gravitating more


    and

    Quoted message said:

    more to my recumbent trikes because I am growing weary
    of combating the constant instability of 2 wheel
    recumbents.

    Actually I find the Ryan a terrifically stable bike as
    long as one follows


    a

    Quoted message said:

    few simple rules such as keeping your feet on the bike if
    it's moving. If I'm going downhill at 45 mph on an upright
    I'm a worried man. My imagination is filled with all sorts
    of grotesque things that could go


    wrong

    Quoted message said:

    and send me hurtling down the mountain head first and face
    down. On the other hand the Ryan is so stable at that
    speed and I'm so relaxed that I find myself wishing I
    could twist a throttle and pick up another 10 or so mph.
    Same for the GRR. These are exceptionally stable bikes
    that handle beautifully at high speed (and low speed too
    in the Ryan's case). I do


    not

    Quoted message said:

    feel the need for a trike's stability. That day is sure to
    come, but it's not here yet.

    All recumbents will trick you when you least expect it.The
    fact is they do not handle like an upright to their
    detriment. I would be very careful about downhill speeds of
    45 mph. It you spill at that speed you are likely to
    seriously injure yourself. My top speed on ANY bike is
    around 35 mph. Any faster than that and I feel unsafe.
    Frankly, I find about 20 mph to be a safe speed on a bike,
    most especially a recumbent. But I will agree with you that
    a LWB is to be infinitely preferred for stability and
    handling reasons than any SWB.

    But I am normally traveling at about 10 mph on my
    recumbents, and to me there is no comparison between
    recumbents and uprights at these admittedly rather slow
    speeds. I can do track stands on an upright. I don't believe
    anyone on earth can do a track stand on a recumbent. Hence,
    they are not as stable as uprights.

    --
    Ed Dolan - Minnesota

  17. On Sun, 16 May 2004 04:05:41 -0500, "skip" <[email hidden]> wrote in
    message <[email hidden]>:

    Mr. Ed farted:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    All recumbents are terrifically unstable

    Skip replied:

    Quoted message said:

    Actually I find the Ryan a terrifically stable bike as long
    as one follows a few simple rules

    But Skip, of course two-wheel recumbents are unstable.
    That's why Sam Whittingham crashed at a mere 80mph. This is
    one of the reasons Mr Ed refuses to ride above walking pace,
    so his red flag man can hold the bike up when turning if the
    training wheels don't do their job.

    Uprights, on the other hand, are inherently stable. I never
    bother leaning mine against anything, I just park them -
    they are so stble they can't possibly fall over.

    Guy
    --
    May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
    chapmancentral.co.ukchapmancentral.co.uk

    88% of helmet statistics are made up, 65% of them at Washington University

  18. Edward Dolan said:


    "skip" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:Y_idnTkh9aB8szrdRVn-
    [email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Edward Dolan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    All recumbents are terrifically unstable when compared
    to uprights. Therefore, it behooves us to use caution
    when operating these


    contraptions

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    otherwise known as recumbents. I find lately that I am
    gravitating more


    and

    Quoted message said:

    more to my recumbent trikes because I am growing weary
    of combating the constant instability of 2 wheel
    recumbents.

    Actually I find the Ryan a terrifically stable bike as
    long as one follows


    a

    Quoted message said:

    few simple rules such as keeping your feet on the bike if
    it's moving. If I'm going downhill at 45 mph on an
    upright I'm a worried man. My imagination is filled with
    all sorts of grotesque things that could go


    wrong

    Quoted message said:

    and send me hurtling down the mountain head first and
    face down. On the other hand the Ryan is so stable at
    that speed and I'm so relaxed that I find myself wishing
    I could twist a throttle and pick up another 10 or so
    mph. Same for the GRR. These are exceptionally stable
    bikes that handle beautifully at high speed (and low
    speed too in the Ryan's case). I do


    not

    Quoted message said:

    feel the need for a trike's stability. That day is sure
    to come, but it's not here yet.

    All recumbents will trick you when you least expect it.The
    fact is they do not handle like an upright to their
    detriment. I would be very careful about downhill speeds
    of 45 mph. It you spill at that speed you are likely to
    seriously injure yourself. My top speed on ANY bike is
    around 35 mph. Any faster than that and I feel unsafe.
    Frankly, I find about 20 mph to be a safe speed on a bike,
    most especially a recumbent. But I will agree with you
    that a LWB is to be infinitely preferred for stability and
    handling reasons than any SWB.

    But I am normally traveling at about 10 mph on my
    recumbents, and to me there is no comparison between
    recumbents and uprights at these admittedly rather slow
    speeds. I can do track stands on an upright. I don't
    believe anyone on earth can do a track stand on a
    recumbent. Hence, they are not as stable as uprights.

    In a recent CTC magazine there was an article mentioning
    'pendulum stability' - a long pendulum swings slower than a
    short pendulum, hence a penny-farthing is more stable than
    an 'ordinary' is more stable than a low-racer...

    My SWB tourer is relatively high and it's stable whenever
    it's in motion. Unless the front wheel slips in which case
    it's 'splat' before I can do anything about it.

    Kit

  19. Dan B. writes" I use one sided cleated pedals (platforms on
    the other)
    and usually only engage the cleats when on the road at
    speed."

    I am amazed, after using cleats for several years , how when
    I want to stay uncleated, the buggers hook up anyways. I
    guess all those times I try to hook up have built motor
    memory that won't quit.

    Miles of Smiles,

    Tom

  20. "kit" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Edward Dolan said:


    "skip" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:Y_idnTkh9aB8szrdRVn-
    [email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    "Edward Dolan" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...
    >
    > All recumbents are terrifically unstable when
    > compared to uprights. Therefore, it behooves us to
    > use caution when operating these


    contraptions

    Quoted message said:

    > otherwise known as recumbents. I find lately that I
    > am gravitating


    more

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    and
    > more to my recumbent trikes because I am growing
    > weary of combating


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > constant instability of 2 wheel recumbents.
    >

    Actually I find the Ryan a terrifically stable bike as
    long as one


    follows

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    a

    Quoted message said:

    few simple rules such as keeping your feet on the bike
    if it's moving.


    If

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'm going downhill at 45 mph on an upright I'm a
    worried man. My imagination is filled with all sorts of
    grotesque things that could go


    wrong

    Quoted message said:

    and send me hurtling down the mountain head first and
    face down. On


    the

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    other hand the Ryan is so stable at that speed and I'm
    so relaxed that


    I

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    find myself wishing I could twist a throttle and pick
    up another 10 or


    so

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    mph. Same for the GRR. These are exceptionally stable
    bikes that


    handle

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    beautifully at high speed (and low speed too in the
    Ryan's case). I do


    not

    Quoted message said:

    feel the need for a trike's stability. That day is sure
    to come, but


    it's

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    not here yet.

    All recumbents will trick you when you least expect
    it.The fact is they


    do

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    not handle like an upright to their detriment. I would
    be very careful


    about

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    downhill speeds of 45 mph. It you spill at that speed
    you are likely to seriously injure yourself. My top
    speed on ANY bike is around 35 mph.


    Any

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    faster than that and I feel unsafe. Frankly, I find
    about 20 mph to be a safe speed on a bike, most
    especially a recumbent. But I will agree with


    you

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    that a LWB is to be infinitely preferred for stability
    and handling


    reasons

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    than any SWB.

    But I am normally traveling at about 10 mph on my
    recumbents, and to me there is no comparison between
    recumbents and uprights at these


    admittedly

    Quoted message said:
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    rather slow speeds. I can do track stands on an upright.
    I don't believe anyone on earth can do a track stand on
    a recumbent. Hence, they are not


    as

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    stable as uprights.

    In a recent CTC magazine there was an article mentioning
    'pendulum stability' - a long pendulum swings slower than
    a short pendulum, hence a penny-farthing is more stable
    than an 'ordinary' is more stable than a low-racer...

    My SWB tourer is relatively high and it's stable whenever
    it's in motion. Unless the front wheel slips in which case
    it's 'splat' before I can do anything about it.

    Kit

    Yes, Kit, I think you have got it right. I remember reading
    many years ago that the higher you are centered above two
    wheels the easier the balance and the lower you are centered
    over two wheels the more difficult the balance.This seems
    intuitively to be correct to me. I believe many circus acts
    are based on this principle. It is much easier to balance on
    an upright than it is to balance on a recumbent, but the
    higher the seat is above the two wheels the easier the
    balance. I believe there was a recumbent a few years back
    that was based on this principle. It was called a high rider
    or some such thing. I believe it has since gone out of
    business and it was never popular for reasons having nothing
    to do with balance.

    --
    Ed Dolan - Minnesota

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