"Gemma Kernich" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:
"hippy" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:I'm not sure if either the ENO or the Miche track
groupset come with a lock ring. It's not too expensive
so I don't see why I'd not use one.
Miche hubs do come with a lock ring, (and the ability to
use a lockring.)
I
Quoted message said:have seen people with what looks like 'conversions' to a
fixed which can't accomodate a lockring, personally I'd
steer clear of anything without a lockring, or a quick
release for that matter.
The conversion to a fixed you are refering to here is
exactly what I have done. It's pretty inexpensive and
consists of pulling the gears of an old bike which has the
campag style semi-horizontal dropouts. Replace the freewheel
with a 3/32 inch dura-ace cog (locktite used). Remove outer
Chainring and replace the bolts with BMX bolts. Rearrange
the spacers on the back axle until you get the chain line
correct (Shorten chain to suit). Then redish the wheel to
get the rim back to where it should be. I agree with you
regarding the lockring if you only had a front brake but in
my case I have front and rear brakes and hence do not rely
on the rear wheel for braking. When I upgrade the hubs with
a set of Suzues there will be a lockring thread and I will
be using it. My opinion is if it's there use it. I'm not
sure yet if I will swap out the axles on the new hubs for
QRs. So far, over a couple of thousand Kms, I have not had a
problem with using QRs on the rear.
This bike got a lot use last year when I crashed on the
track and fractured a bone in my thumb. For about 2.5 months
I could not use my road bike at all. There was a bit of a
problem changing gears and braking. Thankfully I could still
ride this bike and my track bike otherwise I would not have
been a happy camper.
Never, despite what some people say, ride without a lockring
on the track. I think it was in a heat of the Austral, the
guy on the mark 10m in front of me, for some unknown reason,
decided he needed to backpedal to avoid the guy in front of
him. He unwinds his cog and nearly takes me out as I go
around the outside of him just as he looks like he is about
to hit the deck. My race was basically over at this point
because I now had no hope of getting onto the bunch ahead of
me due to the loss of momentum incurred.
🙁 I'm not sure what happened to the guy in front of me.
:From what I hear
from others he may have copped a fine.
Quoted message said:I have a miche groupset I'm quite happy with, chainrings
are cheap mail-order ex UK.
Me too, I have the hubs on my training wheels. Do you use
the splined cog and carrier setup? I also have the cranks.
The only negative point on the cranks is that the chainring
bolts attach directly to the spider. This I have found this
to cause excessive load to be placed on the heads of the
bolts (when compared to the normal setup) and the eventual
result of this is the bolt head parts company from the rest
of the bolt. This usually happens when doing standing starts
with a 98.4" gear. Thankfully, thus far, no more than one
has done this at any one time. I would not like to see what
happened if two adjacent bolts broke, (Do these chainrings
bend? I hope not!!).
Quoted message said:The miche lockring is great as you can use the 6-tab
shimano durace BB tool on it.
This idea I like. Currently I'm using the Dura-Ace
Lockring/Chain Whip combo tool which I would still need for
my campag lockrings. But for training where there are a lot
of gear changes I can see this BB tool will prolong the life
of my miche lockring.
Quoted message said:
Same goes for track nuts (axle nuts), in this case Miche
is the same as shimano, whereas campy is different.
When it comes time to replace your Miche wheelnuts you can
also use the cheaper than Shimano, but better than Miche,
Suzue ones. Be warned, you need to get the correct type of
Suzue nut to fit the Miche axle. Different model Suzue hubs
use different axle threads.
Geoff
