Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Gearing for 20 mile ride with 7 miles of climb

stormer94 · 2004-07-12T01:00:03+00:00

I have a race next weekend. 20 miles. the first 2.5 are pretty average, then about 7.5 of screaming downhill, the turnaround, and then 7.5 miles of climbing and 2.5 back to the start. Because of where I live, I don't have very many hills to climb, and they are few and far between on the flat roads. Maybe 5 miles of flat road and a .4 mile climb. I'm thinking of regearing the bike. I was told by the shop where I got the bike that you don't want to give up the 11 on the back for the long downhill. I am of the mind that what little I lost in the 15 minute downhill would be nothing compared to the suffering and agony of climbing at 5-6 mph for an hour with the wrong rear gear, in this case the big gear of 23. My pulse goes through the roof when I climb hills around here in the 39-23, and that's for small stuff, like a 1/2 to mile, not 7 miles worth!!! What would I "really" be giving up going to a 27 on the back? I truly feel it's the best plan for me, but need information from those that know. 🙂

Started by stormer94 · 12 July 2004 · Last activity 12 July 2004 · 4 posts · 569 views

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Original section: Cycling Equipment
Published: 12 July 2004
Last activity: 12 July 2004
Original author: stormer94
Posts: 4
Discussion status: Public discussion
Total views: 569
Views / 30 days: 0
Topics: Climbing Cycling computers

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stormer94
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12 July 2004, 01:00 UTC #1

I have a race next weekend. 20 miles. the first 2.5 are pretty average, then about 7.5 of screaming downhill, the turnaround, and then 7.5 miles of climbing and 2.5 back to the start.
Because of where I live, I don't have very many hills to climb, and they are few and far between on the flat roads. Maybe 5 miles of flat road and a .4 mile climb.
I'm thinking of regearing the bike.
I was told by the shop where I got the bike that you don't want to give up the 11 on the back for the long downhill. I am of the mind that what little I lost in the 15 minute downhill would be nothing compared to the suffering and agony of climbing at 5-6 mph for an hour with the wrong rear gear, in this case the big gear of 23.
My pulse goes through the roof when I climb hills around here in the 39-23, and that's for small stuff, like a 1/2 to mile, not 7 miles worth!!!
What would I "really" be giving up going to a 27 on the back?
I truly feel it's the best plan for me, but need information from those that know. 🙂

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dhk
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12 July 2004, 01:57 UTC #2

If that 7.5 mile climb is at a 6-8% grade, ie, 2500-3000 ft of altitude gain, I'm pretty sure you'll be better off with the lowest gear you can possibly get on the bike. I'd go for the 27, or a 27 with a 50/34 compact crank, or triple if you can afford it.
Your HR will be near redline regardless of gearing, but the lowest gears will enable you to maintain good cadence at 5-6 mph, and alternate sitting and standing so you don't fry your legs after 15 minutes and have to get off and walk.
I'd also drop the 11 tooth no question. The time you save in spinning out the 11 vs 12 over the top of the hill will be nothing compared to what you save going up with the added low gear. Besides, if it's a steep downhill, you'll be in an aero tuck anyway; no sense to try to pedal at 40+ mph downhill.
On the other hand, I understand Lance climbs the big mountains just fine with his 39/23. If you've got his 550 W of sustained power output, please ignore everything above.

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stormer94
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12 July 2004, 02:13 UTC #3

Have the new 10 speed stuff. 😄 So I don't want to up and get a new crank, and the associated stuff, yet.
I'm leaning toward the 12-27. Better to sit and spin than to fight like a dog and likely get beaten down like a dog... :p
How does one measure a climb? How do you figure a grade? I have elevation stuff and one of those wheel type measurers. I'd be interested in checking two of our local climbs. Never really thought about it until just now. 🙂
I have both a 12-25 and 12-27 ordered, should be here before race day. I'll try them out on some steep local stuff and see how the legs complain... "stupid legs".... 🙂

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dhk
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12 July 2004, 03:36 UTC #4

Some of the pricer bike computers can measure elevation gain and % grade, but I've never invested in one of them. They are cool since you can look down while you're climbing and see the instant grade, then check the elevation gain when you get to the top. For hilly rides around here, total elevation gain is as important as speed and distance in knowing how hard you worked.
Topo map software is the easiest way to get the grades and elevation gains at home. The Delorme Topo USA 5.0 is the one I've got. It displays profiles and instant and average % grades. USGS topo maps would work too of course, with just a bit of calculation.
Or, you might find a rider who's already got the info. Our club here has the gains and average grades on the website for all the popular local hill climbs.
Etrex GPS isn't very accurate for elevation, but I've used it also to get a ballpark figure.

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