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Rear der adjustments/dialing it in

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Mountain Bikes
Published
17 April 2004
Last activity
18 April 2004
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Slacker
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  1. You know, I've always hated the rear der, but I hate it now more than
    ever. I swear, for the past week I've been fantasizing bout SS'ing my DH
    rig. Who the hell needs 9 gears on a DH bike anyway... I'd be happy with
    3, and could definitely make do with 1.

    <<end rant>>

    So, anyway, I'm having trouble dialing in my Ultegra der. I pretty much
    have the H and L adjustments done, but it's skipping 8th, 2-3 and
    sometimes 5. Any suggestions on dialing the [censored] in? I'm using a
    third hand dealy thing to pull the cable really tight?? Maybe not tight
    enough ???

    If you're thinking about suggesting checking components for wear, don't;
    everything is brand new.

    --
    Slacker

    Btw, did you guys notice that Harris Cyclery is hiring?

  2. "Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:


    So, anyway, I'm having trouble dialing in my Ultegra der. I

    Here's your problem. Ultegra = road not DH ;-)

    I actually find the rear easy to work on compared to the front. But, I
    don't think I can put into words how to really dial it in.

    did you try sacrificing a chicken?

    if you want the rear derailleur bolt converted to one of those special
    "round" anti theft fasteners I'm sure Sorni would give you a
    hand.................

    Michael

  3. Slacker said:

    So, anyway, I'm having trouble dialing in my Ultegra der. I pretty
    much have the H and L adjustments done, but it's skipping 8th, 2-3 and
    sometimes 5. Any suggestions on dialing the [censored] in? I'm using a
    third hand dealy thing to pull the cable really tight?? Maybe not
    tight enough ???

    How did you end up with an Ultegra derailleur on a downhill rig?!? Did you
    mean XT, perhaps? (Freudian Roadie Lingerie? ;-)

    Anyway, adjust the H limit screw so der. is just a tad outside smallest cog
    (no cable yet), and L so it's exactly in line with big.

    Make sure shifter is released all the way -- pull cable quite tight -- screw
    in the fastener dealie. (Oh, loosen the barrel adjusters at both ends all
    the way and then back a turn or so, too.)

    {Here's where following the Shimano insert paper helps.} Turn cranks and
    shift up one click -- adjust barrel until chain moves (maybe even until it
    starts rubbing 3rd smallest cog -- not sure about that part) -- basically
    playing w/ cable tension until shifting works right from both extremes.

    Are you SURE an ultegra can handle mountain gear ranges?!?

    Bill "maybe those SS'ers *do* know something" S.

  4. Michael Paul said:

    "Slacker" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    So, anyway, I'm having trouble dialing in my Ultegra der. I

    Here's your problem. Ultegra = road not DH ;-)

    Michael


    Don't make me drive down to SD and rip up your local trails with my
    little "roadie" equipped Turner! ;-)
    --
    Slacker

  5. S o r n i said:
    Slacker said:

    So, anyway, I'm having trouble dialing in my Ultegra der. I pretty
    much have the H and L adjustments done, but it's skipping 8th, 2-3 and
    sometimes 5. Any suggestions on dialing the [censored] in? I'm using a
    third hand dealy thing to pull the cable really tight?? Maybe not
    tight enough ???

    How did you end up with an Ultegra derailleur on a downhill rig?!? Did you
    mean XT, perhaps? (Freudian Roadie Lingerie? ;-)

    No, I meant Ultegra. Btw, I also have an Ultegra cassette. That der is
    actually semi-popular with some of us because of it's cost and very
    short cage.

    Quoted message said:

    Anyway, adjust the H limit screw so der. is just a tad outside smallest cog
    (no cable yet), and L so it's exactly in line with big.

    Make sure shifter is released all the way -- pull cable quite tight -- screw
    in the fastener dealie. (Oh, loosen the barrel adjusters at both ends all
    the way and then back a turn or so, too.)

    {Here's where following the Shimano insert paper helps.} Turn cranks and
    shift up one click -- adjust barrel until chain moves (maybe even until it
    starts rubbing 3rd smallest cog -- not sure about that part) -- basically
    playing w/ cable tension until shifting works right from both extremes.

    Are you SURE an ultegra can handle mountain gear ranges?!?

    Bill "maybe those SS'ers *do* know something" S.


    Cool thanks... that's what I need!
    --
    Slacker

  6. Slacker said:

    S o r n i wrote:


    {snippage}

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    {Here's where following the Shimano insert paper helps.} Turn
    cranks and shift up one click -- adjust barrel until chain moves
    (maybe even until it starts rubbing 3rd smallest cog -- not sure
    about that part) -- basically playing w/ cable tension until
    shifting works right from both extremes.

    Quoted message said:

    Cool thanks... that's what I need!

    I can see Michael Paul rolling his eyes right now.

    Bill "and Miles, too" S.

  7. Slacker said:

    No, I meant Ultegra. Btw, I also have an Ultegra cassette. That der is
    actually semi-popular with some of us because of it's cost and very
    short cage.

    I used an Ultegra BB with my XTR crankset for quite a while -- in fact, it
    still works fine but the damn middle ring is shot. (XTR BB lasted maybe 6
    months.)

    I can see where a close-range roadie cassette would work for DH.

    Bill "but you have to wear a skirt" S.

  8. S o r n i said:
    Slacker said:

    No, I meant Ultegra. Btw, I also have an Ultegra cassette. That der is
    actually semi-popular with some of us because of it's cost and very
    short cage.

    I used an Ultegra BB with my XTR crankset for quite a while -- in fact, it
    still works fine but the damn middle ring is shot. (XTR BB lasted maybe 6
    months.)

    I can see where a close-range roadie cassette would work for DH.

    Bill "but you have to wear a skirt" S.


    I don't do skirts, but I do wear a pair of these underneath my bad ass
    armor http://www.pennybell.com/acatalog/LB1207(Large).JPG
    --
    Slacker

  9. "S o r n i" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    Slacker wrote:

    Quoted message said:


    Are you SURE an ultegra can handle mountain gear ranges?!?

    Bill "maybe those SS'ers *do* know something" S.


    it's relatively common to use an Ultegra when only using a single chainring
    up front. Heck, even Eric the Red ran an Ultegra on his Klein for Idyllwild
    and he has three chainrings. granted, he was also running a Dura-Ace
    cassette in the rear with a 27 tooth but still.

    Michael

  10. Slacker said:

    You know, I've always hated the rear der, but I hate it now more than
    ever. I swear, for the past week I've been fantasizing bout SS'ing my DH
    rig. Who the hell needs 9 gears on a DH bike anyway... I'd be happy with
    3, and could definitely make do with 1.

    <<end rant>>

    So, anyway, I'm having trouble dialing in my Ultegra der. I pretty much
    have the H and L adjustments done, but it's skipping 8th, 2-3 and
    sometimes 5. Any suggestions on dialing the [censored] in? I'm using a
    third hand dealy thing to pull the cable really tight?? Maybe not tight
    enough ???

    If you're thinking about suggesting checking components for wear, don't;
    everything is brand new.

    As if. Clearly bad workman syndrome... 🙂

    Drop the derailleur in to the the smallest cog and set the adjustment
    screw. Loosen the bolt that clamps the cable and tug on the cable so that
    it's taut. Do up and make minor adjustments with the barrel adjuster.

    Couple of extra points. What size cassette are you running? If you're
    using a short cage mech with a wide ratio cassette it could be causing you
    problems.

    Are you sure that the action of the rear swingarm isn't putting
    tension on the cable and causing ghost shifting?

    Have you got ferrules on the end of each bit of outer?

    If all else fails, go with SRAM - the 1:1 shifting ratio gives you much
    more room for error.

    Quoted message said:

    Btw, did you guys notice that Harris Cyclery is hiring?

    But they've already got a guy called Jon Harris - that would just get
    confusing...

  11. DH rig,use a 7 or 8 speed internal hub. Heavy but isn't
    DH heavy. Like 40 -50 lbs heavy then okay.

    I MTB 2004

  12. Some of the DH Pro riders use Ultegra rear derailleurs.

    I MTB 2004

  13. DH goes XTR or Ultegra for Shimano. X.9 or X.O if your
    a Sram man.

    I MTB 2004

  14. In news:[email hidden],
    Slacker <[email hidden]> typed:

    Quoted message said:

    You know, I've always hated the rear der, but I hate it now more than
    ever. I swear, for the past week I've been fantasizing bout SS'ing my
    DH rig. Who the hell needs 9 gears on a DH bike anyway... I'd be
    happy with 3, and could definitely make do with 1.

    <<end rant>>

    So, anyway, I'm having trouble dialing in my Ultegra der. I pretty
    much have the H and L adjustments done, but it's skipping 8th, 2-3 and
    sometimes 5. Any suggestions on dialing the [censored] in? I'm using a
    third hand dealy thing to pull the cable really tight?? Maybe not
    tight enough ???

    If you're thinking about suggesting checking components for wear,
    don't; everything is brand new.

    How's the last loop of housing going into the mech.? If it's too tight it
    may cause shifting problems there. Pop in a V-brake noodle (like on my
    Bullit) or use a Rollamagig. The cable doesn't have to be banjo string
    tight either as Jon mentioned.

    Mike

  15. Quoted message said:

    How did you end up with an Ultegra derailleur on a downhill rig?!? Did


    you

    Quoted message said:

    mean XT, perhaps? (Freudian Roadie Lingerie? ;-)

    It's about the short cage... the road RDs can handle more capacity than you
    might think, especially with a single front chainring. In this case,
    there's only a 11 or so tooth difference.

    Have you honestly never heard of using road RDs on single-chainring bikes?

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  16. Michael Dart said:


    How's the last loop of housing going into the mech.? If it's too tight it
    may cause shifting problems there. Pop in a V-brake noodle (like on my
    Bullit) or use a Rollamagig. The cable doesn't have to be banjo string
    tight either as Jon mentioned.

    Mike


    That was the first problem I encountered. The cable/der angle are really
    bad
    <http:[email hidden]/detail?.dir=/8f10&.dnm=4011.jpg>

    I just picked up a Rollamajig the other day. I always wondered what
    those things are used for... now I know. It seems to have done the
    trick; the shifting is nice and tight/crisp now. I had pulled the cable
    too tight. Loosened it up a little, a quick H/L adjust and :-) !

    Ironically, it's been raining here almost all morning :-( Gonna have to
    wait to get a real test in.
    --
    Slacker

  17. bomba said:

    If all else fails, go with SRAM - the 1:1 shifting ratio gives you much
    more room for error.


    Just saw a
    <http://cambriabike.com/shift&der/sram_%20x.0_rear_derailleur.htm> (on a
    Giant DH) in the flesh on Thursday. Very, very nice. It is the first RD
    I've ever seen that had the cable angle perfect right out of the box.

    Thanks for the help.
    --
    Slacker

  18. In news:[email hidden],
    Slacker <[email hidden]> typed:

    Quoted message said:
    bomba said:

    If all else fails, go with SRAM - the 1:1 shifting ratio gives you
    much more room for error.


    Just saw a
    <http://cambriabike.com/shift&der/sram_%20x.0_rear_derailleur.htm>
    (on a Giant DH) in the flesh on Thursday. Very, very nice. It is the
    first RD I've ever seen that had the cable angle perfect right out of
    the box.

    Thanks for the help.

    Add to that the new SRAM trigger shifters. Thumb only operation keeps your
    fingers on the brakes or around the grips where they belong. Very crisp
    action too. I'm seriously considering them for my DH ride.

    Mike

  19. In news:[email hidden],
    Slacker <[email hidden]> typed:

    Quoted message said:
    Michael Dart said:


    How's the last loop of housing going into the mech.? If it's too
    tight it may cause shifting problems there. Pop in a V-brake noodle
    (like on my Bullit) or use a Rollamagig. The cable doesn't have to
    be banjo string tight either as Jon mentioned.

    Mike


    That was the first problem I encountered. The cable/der angle are
    really bad


    <http:[email hidden]/detail?.dir=/8f10&.
    dnm=4011.jpg>

    Quoted message said:


    I just picked up a Rollamajig the other day. I always wondered what
    those things are used for... now I know. It seems to have done the
    trick; the shifting is nice and tight/crisp now. I had pulled the
    cable too tight. Loosened it up a little, a quick H/L adjust and :-) !

    Ironically, it's been raining here almost all morning :-( Gonna have
    to wait to get a real test in.

    The Rollamajig came integrated on the first XTR rapidrise rear. It worked
    great. Dunno why the got away from it except it may have added two whole
    grams of weight!

    Mike

  20. Michael Dart said:

    Add to that the new SRAM trigger shifters. Thumb only operation keeps your
    fingers on the brakes or around the grips where they belong. Very crisp
    action too. I'm seriously considering them for my DH ride.

    Mike


    Hey... where'd you see this thumb shifter? I don't remember hearing
    about them and I couldn't find anything on SRAM's website. Will they
    work with the X.0 der?
    --
    Slacker

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