Removing cable guides on top of bottom bracket shell?

"Boyd Speerschneider" <[email hidden]> wrote >

I have an older frame which has cable guides welded to the top of the

Quoted message said:

bottom bracket shell. I was wondering if anyone in this group has had success in removing these to
replace them with more conventional under the BB shell guides?

What are you trying to accomplish by doing this? "Conventional" is not necessarily better in today's
bicycle world. The cable guides welded on the top of the BB shell may work better, as they are less
in the way of mud and other things that can interfere with performance.

Regards, Larry

"Lawrence Fieman" <[email hidden]> wrote in news:SPSma.462368$F1.66377@sccrnsc04:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

What are you trying to accomplish by doing this? "Conventional" is not necessarily better in
today's bicycle world. The cable guides welded on the top of the BB shell may work better, as they
are less in the way of mud and other things that can interfere with performance.

Regards, Larry

I'm trying to save a few grams. As its a road bike, it almost never even sees mud.

- Boyd S.

Boyd Speerschneider said:

I have an older frame which has cable guides welded to the top of the bottom bracket shell. I was
wondering if anyone in this group has had success in removing these to replace them with more
conventional under the BB shell guides? If so, how (without signifigantly damaging the frame)?

Most frames that had the cable guides on top of the BB also had the rear der cable stop on top of
the chainstay. If you move the BB guides to below the BB, how will you route the cable to the rear
cable stop without it rubbing on the chainstay?

Art Harris

Lawrence Fieman said:

"Boyd Speerschneider" <[email hidden]> wrote >

I have an older frame which has cable guides welded to the top of the

Quoted message said:

bottom bracket shell. I was wondering if anyone in this group has had success in removing these
to replace them with more conventional under the BB shell guides?

What are you trying to accomplish by doing this? "Conventional" is not necessarily better in
today's bicycle world. The cable guides welded on the top of the BB shell may work better, as they
are less in the way of mud and other things that can interfere with performance.

Regards, Larry

I have removed guids using a cutting wheel on a dremel.Iremoved the guids because they had rusted
and were no longer usable. If yours are in good shape, I wouldn't bother. Bob Denton Gulf Stream
International Delray Beach, Florida www.sinkthestink.com Manufacturers of Sink the Stink

Harris <[email hidden]> wrote in
:"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Most frames that had the cable guides on top of the BB also had the rear der cable stop on top of
the chainstay. If you move the BB guides to below the BB, how will you route the cable to the rear
cable stop without it rubbing on the chainstay?

Art Harris

Good point. Any ideas?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Most frames that had the cable guides on top of the BB also had the rear der cable stop on top
of the chainstay. If you move the BB guides to below the BB, how will you route the cable to the
rear cable stop without it rubbing on the chainstay?

Art Harris

Good point. Any ideas?

Yes- Don't bother. This is a RPITA process, that is worse than useless-it will actually degrade your
shifting performance. Without even considering the need to either mount some kind of new cable stop
(brazing would be best, but stripping and painting etc.. will be necessary) which if not brazed,
will offset any weight savings. Further, the top of chainstay cable stop provides better shifting
performance than an under chainstay stop. A few grams could be saved way easier.

Whitfit.

Quoted message said:

Good point. Any ideas?

....>>>>>>>>...I have seen quides that clamp to the stay.

"Boyd Speerschneider" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Hello, I have an older frame which has cable guides welded to the top of the bottom bracket shell.
I was wondering if anyone in this group has had success in removing these to replace them with
more conventional under the BB shell guides? If so, how (without signifigantly damaging the
frame)? Thanks in advance,
- Boyd S.

You could just ignore the top guides, drill and tap the BB and fun your cables on a nylon plate. If
you just want to remove them, I would snip off what you can with an endcutter and then file the
remainder away.

--
Andrew Muzi yellowjersey.orgyellowjersey.orgOpen ↗ Open every day since 1 April 1971

[email hidden] (whitfit) wrote in :"]news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Yes- Don't bother. This is a RPITA process, that is worse than useless-it will actually degrade
your shifting performance. Without even considering the need to either mount some kind of new
cable stop (brazing would be best, but stripping and painting etc.. will be necessary) which if
not brazed, will offset any weight savings. Further, the top of chainstay cable stop provides
better shifting performance than an under chainstay stop. A few grams could be saved way easier.

Whitfit.

I was going to get the frame repainted anyway. I'm trying to bring it as up to date as possible
beforehand. Getting rid of the cable guides on top of the BB shell also make it easier to strip all
of the old paint off of the bike, because I (or whoever does
it) won't have to worry about stripping them (the guides, that is).

As far as degrading shifting performace... please. I have another bike with the stop on the
underside of the chainstay and haven't noticed any 'degraded' shifting performance; even relatively.

- Boyd S.

ps. What does RPITA mean?

whitfit said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Most frames that had the cable guides on top of the BB also had the rear der cable stop on top
of the chainstay. If you move the BB guides to below the BB, how will you route the cable to
the rear cable stop without it rubbing on the chainstay?

Art Harris

Good point. Any ideas?

Yes- Don't bother. This is a RPITA process,

I agre to here. Nothing wrong with the old cable guides.

Quoted message said:

that is worse than useless-it will actually degrade your shifting performance. Without even
considering the need to either mount some kind of new cable stop (brazing would be best, but
stripping and painting etc.. will be necessary) which if not brazed, will offset any weight
savings. Further, the top of chainstay cable stop provides better shifting performance than an
under chainstay stop. A few grams could be saved way easier.

This is silly. How could there be a significant difference in shifting performance? The under the
bottom-bracket guides tend to be nylon, rather than brazed-on steel, so aside from being lighter
they are smoother. But if you lube the brazed-on ones they will work fine for many years.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | You will say Christ saith this and the apostles say this; but _`\(,_ | what canst thou say?
-- George Fox. (_)/ (_) |

David L. Johnson said:

whitfit said:

Quoted message said:

>Most frames that had the cable guides on top of the BB also had the rear der cable stop on top
>of the chainstay. If you move the BB guides to below the BB, how will you route the cable to the
>rear cable stop without it rubbing on the chainstay?
>
>Art Harris

Good point. Any ideas?

Yes- Don't bother. This is a RPITA process,

I agre to here. Nothing wrong with the old cable guides.

Quoted message said:

that is worse than useless-it will actually degrade your shifting performance. Without even
considering the need to either mount some kind of new cable stop (brazing would be best, but
stripping and painting etc.. will be necessary) which if not brazed, will offset any weight
savings. Further, the top of chainstay cable stop provides better shifting performance than an
under chainstay stop. A few grams could be saved way easier.

This is silly. How could there be a significant difference in shifting performance? The under the
bottom-bracket guides tend to be nylon, rather than brazed-on steel, so aside from being lighter
they are smoother. But if you lube the brazed-on ones they will work fine for many years.

because anytime you bend a housing you get fiction - the more you bend it the worse it works. a
housing stop onthe top of the chainstay will bend stay straighter than the underside one will. it
wont have the compound bend in it either. to reduce the fiction in the BB guides use a small piece
of inner housing.

personaly i think the idea of moving the BB guides is stupid. my guess is the bottom mount is used
because it's cheaper to prduce and for no performance reason at all.