Anybody, I installed an aluminum stem in a carbon fork/steel steerer tube and it's in tight. No way do I want to twist the stem from the fork. I cut the stem from the quill to remove the fork from the frame. There is about 3/4 inch of the quill extended from the fork. After reading some methods from Jobst Brandt I feel this may necessitate the skill of a good frame builder.
Anybody, I installed an aluminum stem in a carbon fork/steel steerer tube and it's in tight. No way do I want to twist the stem from the fork. I cut the stem from the quill to remove the fork from the frame. There is about 3/4 inch of the quill extended from the fork.
Quoted message said:
After reading some methods from Jobst Brandt I feel this may necessitate the skill of a good frame builder.
It's amazing to me that no one has come up with a boot or adequate seal to keep sweat from getting down into this joint.
For years Campagnolo and Shimano, as have others, offer their threaded headsets with a seal in the lock nut. In spite of this, they suck sweat into the interface because the stem wobbles from side to side, something most seals do not handle well.
The problem should vanish as bicycles in general switch to threadless headsets where the stem is securely attached and is not prone to corrosion in a fretting gap. This is the main improvement this design has brought with it. The threadlessness is immaterial and an unfortunate naming appendage. It is the first bar stem since the days of yore when Cinelli track forks had an expander at the bottom of the stem and a clamp at the top.
It's amazing to me that no one has come up with a boot or adequate seal to keep sweat from getting down into this joint.
If you fitted the stem with a liberal amount of anti-seize you could then seal round the top with clear silicone. It's not so strong that it would stop you getting the stem out again, and hopefully the need to regularly remove and regrease it would be eliminated as there would be no sweat/rain getting down there.