Well I have to thank those that responded to a previous post about bearing
cone adjustment.
I had regreased my bearings and the rim had very slight play. And I thought
it was ok but posted to the NG anyway. Then I learned that there should be
no play in the bearings (side to side movement of the rim) and the reason
why- that bearing failure is due to incorrect bearing adjustment.
So I readjusted my bearings and I feel more confident that the job is done
correct. And I also add that I felt that even that the bearings are more
tight - without side to side play, that the bike rolls faster.
thanks to all
greg 🙂
Cycling Equipment · Public discussion
update- bearing cone adjustment
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- Original section
- Cycling Equipment
- Published
- 16 August 2004
- Last activity
- 17 August 2004
- Original author
- Gregory McGuire
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Gregory McGuire wrote in message <[email hidden]>...
Quoted message said:
So I readjusted my bearings and I feel more confident that the job is done
correct. And I also add that I felt that even that the bearings are more
tight - without side to side play, that the bike rolls faster.
thanks to allThat's because you took a rest day.
Trevor
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Gregory McGuire said:
Well I have to thank those that responded to a previous post about bearing
cone adjustment.
I had regreased my bearings and the rim had very slight play. And I thought
it was ok but posted to the NG anyway. Then I learned that there should be
no play in the bearings (side to side movement of the rim) and the reason
why- that bearing failure is due to incorrect bearing adjustment.
So I readjusted my bearings and I feel more confident that the job is done
correct. And I also add that I felt that even that the bearings are more
tight - without side to side play, that the bike rolls faster.Yeah, but make sure that you don't go too far. Some years back, before I
learned how to adjust hubs, I went a couple of weeks with a hub that
felt fine off the bike, but I hadn't taken into account the effect of
the QR tension. That hub was buggered in no time, due to tight cones.From then on, I've set my hubs slightly loose, then use the tension of
the QR (within reasonable limits) to bring the cones home. I then wiggle
the rim between the forks/stays. If I can *almost* discern a very slight
amount of play, then I've got it right. Doing this, I've not had to
adjust a hub, ever, except for after dismantling and regreasing, which I
do every year.My experience is IOW that cones slightly tight are worse than cones
slightly loose. YMMV though (and I haven't read the rest of this thread
to see what others have written)./Robert
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