EverLed vs new Cateye El-500

Last week I obtained a Tektite LPR-2 LED replacement bulb and this
weekend tested it in two different Cateye 2-cell headlights, the HL-500
and the HL-270:

http://members.cox.net/lioninoil/lpr2.htm

--
"Bicycling is a healthy and manly pursuit with much
to recommend it, and, unlike other foolish crazes,
it has not died out." -- The Daily Telegraph (1877)

[email hidden] (NLee1875) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

August 16, 2004

Hello all..

Back in May, I posted an inquiry about the EverLed PR bulb. The bulb had good
reviews but I was not convinced.

After reading a review by a respected bike rider Bruce Ingle in the topica.com
newsgroup.. I decided to do my own informal evaluation.

<cut>

Quoted message said:

EverLED PR base flashlilght...You need one of these. NO KIDDING!

<cut>

Quoted message said:

Nick Lee

To summarise, I agree entirely with what Nick has written. For a
change, this is a product that exceeds expectations and where the
marketing claims match the product.

After reading this post I decided to try an EverLED to replace one of
the bulbs in my SMART BL201 (see
http://www.sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm?item8379.htm). The bulb (at
£28.20 from http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=605)
was more expensive than the lights new, so I was a little hesitant
about trying this.

I had previously replaced the 2.4W bulb with a 6W and made up a set of
5 AA NiMH rechargeables to replace the lead acid battery supplied
(actually 2 NiMH sets), the aim being to get acceptable illumination
for my daily commute (about 45 mins each way). This worked well, but
meant doing lots of recharging.

I wanted the Everled to give me the same illumination but with greater
battery life.

I considered the Cateye EL-500, but my experience with the EL-300 is
that, while it works quite well on fresh AA batteries, it isn't quite
so bright with NiMH's as with alkaline cells. I had hoped the EL-300
would replace my SMART system, but it was nowhere near good enough
(only small patch of road/path illuminated). I don't know if cateye
have included appropriate electronics with the EL-500 so that it will
work well with NiMH cells and couldn't find this out from their web
site. The Everled claims to work with a "1-6 cells" with "maximum
light from 3 or more cells", so should be a good bet with
rechargeables.

The Everled easily exceeds the brightness of the 6W bulb in my lights,
though it isn't as bright as the 10W one (subjective tests by using
pairs of bulbs in the two housing of the light and switching between
them illuminating the same spot on the wall).

The Everled is a pure white light, certainly much harsher than the
halogen it replaces, but without the blue cast of my EL-300.

Ultraleds supplied this next day and will certainly get an order for
another to replace the second bulb in my light set.

Like Nick, I am interested to know if the EL-500 would have done just
as well in terms of light output (with rechargeables) and battery life
(potentially it could as, I understand, it uses the same Luxeon Star
LED technology), but if you are currently using a 5W or less
incandescent bulb in a 4.5V or more light, you would certainly benefit
from an EverLED bulb for increased light output and battery life.

Andrew Webster

If you want bright, you won't be happy with the EL500. It's much better
than the EL300 though, and you can certainly ride with it on a
dark, pothole-free road with no problem. The road surface will
go invisible if there are many competing lights though.

I have 3 of them on my handlebars - I just added two and like the
size and construction and the battery life, which makes it possible
to make it home without rationing the light - and ordered a 4th for
a spare spot I think I can squeeze it in. Three of them is getting
up there in light, maybe 4 will do it. $40 at bikeman.com

I was happy with the Cateye halogen HL-1500 (also uses 4 AA's) pair
I had but the batteries didn't last long enough without rationing
the light to long half-power periods.

The EL500's look very bright from the front, and they're instantly
spotted as vehicle-like by traffic itching to pull in front of you
otherwise, anyway if you have more than one of them on the handlebars.

They turn on their mounts very easily, so you're reaiming them a lot,
compared to the old Cateye mounts. Not that they turn on their own
so much as that operating the switch will turn them.
--
Ron Hardin
[email hidden]

On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

Having recently perchased an EL-500, I thought I'd chip in with my 2
cents worth.

Following a tip in another post I installed Lithium batteries in the
light. (which I found at a good price on E-bay)

These batteries put out about 1.75V as compared to the Alkalines,
which put out about 1.5V.

In my opinion, this light works quite well and is a noticeable
improvement over both my EL-110 and my EL-300.

Unfortunately the beam pattern is in the shape of the Cateye symbol
and I think it would be better if it was a circle. Maybe they wanted
to advertize to spy satelites how many people use their product?

Lewis.

*************************

[email hidden] (Andrew Webster) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (NLee1875) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

August 16, 2004

Hello all..

Back in May, I posted an inquiry about the EverLed PR bulb. The bulb had good
reviews but I was not convinced.

After reading a review by a respected bike rider Bruce Ingle in the topica.com
newsgroup.. I decided to do my own informal evaluation.

<cut>

Quoted message said:

EverLED PR base flashlilght...You need one of these. NO KIDDING!

<cut>

Quoted message said:

Nick Lee

To summarise, I agree entirely with what Nick has written. For a
change, this is a product that exceeds expectations and where the
marketing claims match the product.

After reading this post I decided to try an EverLED to replace one of
the bulbs in my SMART BL201 (see
http://www.sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm?item8379.htm). The bulb (at
£28.20 from http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=605)
was more expensive than the lights new, so I was a little hesitant
about trying this.

I had previously replaced the 2.4W bulb with a 6W and made up a set of
5 AA NiMH rechargeables to replace the lead acid battery supplied
(actually 2 NiMH sets), the aim being to get acceptable illumination
for my daily commute (about 45 mins each way). This worked well, but
meant doing lots of recharging.

I wanted the Everled to give me the same illumination but with greater
battery life.

I considered the Cateye EL-500, but my experience with the EL-300 is
that, while it works quite well on fresh AA batteries, it isn't quite
so bright with NiMH's as with alkaline cells. I had hoped the EL-300
would replace my SMART system, but it was nowhere near good enough
(only small patch of road/path illuminated). I don't know if cateye
have included appropriate electronics with the EL-500 so that it will
work well with NiMH cells and couldn't find this out from their web
site. The Everled claims to work with a "1-6 cells" with "maximum
light from 3 or more cells", so should be a good bet with
rechargeables.

The Everled easily exceeds the brightness of the 6W bulb in my lights,
though it isn't as bright as the 10W one (subjective tests by using
pairs of bulbs in the two housing of the light and switching between
them illuminating the same spot on the wall).

The Everled is a pure white light, certainly much harsher than the
halogen it replaces, but without the blue cast of my EL-300.

Ultraleds supplied this next day and will certainly get an order for
another to replace the second bulb in my light set.

Like Nick, I am interested to know if the EL-500 would have done just
as well in terms of light output (with rechargeables) and battery life
(potentially it could as, I understand, it uses the same Luxeon Star
LED technology), but if you are currently using a 5W or less
incandescent bulb in a 4.5V or more light, you would certainly benefit
from an EverLED bulb for increased light output and battery life.

Andrew Webster

Ron Hardin <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

If you want bright, you won't be happy with the EL500. It's much better
than the EL300 though, and you can certainly ride with it on a
dark, pothole-free road with no problem. The road surface will
go invisible if there are many competing lights though.

<cut>
I'm really more interested in decent battery life. I generally only
cycle at night on roads I know well and have front and rear xenon
strobes for being seen.
I don't think anyone wanting super-brightness would be considering LED
lights.

I do prefer to use rechargeable batteries. Do you have any experience
of these in your array of EL500s?

Quoted message said:

They turn on their mounts very easily, so you're reaiming them a lot,
compared to the old Cateye mounts. Not that they turn on their own
so much as that operating the switch will turn them.

I'm not sure what you mean by the "old cateye mounts".

Is this the same bracket as the EL-300 (cateye web site doesn't make
this clear)? (having invested in an EL-300 bracket for four of my
bikes it would certainly influence me if the EL-500 were the same).

Andrew Webster

[email hidden] (Lewis Campbell) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Having recently perchased an EL-500, I thought I'd chip in with my 2
cents worth.

Following a tip in another post I installed Lithium batteries in the
light. (which I found at a good price on E-bay)

These batteries put out about 1.75V as compared to the Alkalines,
which put out about 1.5V.

In my opinion, this light works quite well and is a noticeable
improvement over both my EL-110 and my EL-300.

Unfortunately the beam pattern is in the shape of the Cateye symbol
and I think it would be better if it was a circle. Maybe they wanted
to advertize to spy satelites how many people use their product?

Lewis.

I infer from this that the EL-500 is voltage dependant in a way in
which the EverLED bulb isn't. If it is brighter with lithium
batteries then I presume it will be dimmer with NiMH or other
nominally 1.2V rechargeables. Do you have any experience with this
that would confirm or confute my inference?

Thanks

Andrew Webster

Andrew Webster said:

I do prefer to use rechargeable batteries. Do you have any experience
of these in your array of EL500s?

I'm using NiMH. I haven't tried anything else.
--
Ron Hardin
[email hidden]

On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

[email hidden] (Andrew Webster) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (Lewis Campbell) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Having recently perchased an EL-500, I thought I'd chip in with my 2
cents worth.

Following a tip in another post I installed Lithium batteries in the
light. (which I found at a good price on E-bay)

These batteries put out about 1.75V as compared to the Alkalines,
which put out about 1.5V.

In my opinion, this light works quite well and is a noticeable
improvement over both my EL-110 and my EL-300.

Unfortunately the beam pattern is in the shape of the Cateye symbol
and I think it would be better if it was a circle. Maybe they wanted
to advertize to spy satelites how many people use their product?

Lewis.

I infer from this that the EL-500 is voltage dependant in a way in
which the EverLED bulb isn't. If it is brighter with lithium
batteries then I presume it will be dimmer with NiMH or other
nominally 1.2V rechargeables. Do you have any experience with this
that would confirm or confute my inference?

Thanks

Andrew Webster

*****************************************

I'm sorry, Andrew, but I am an electrical dunce and have not done any
testing with other types of battery.

Since the Lithium batteries put out more power, I assumed they would
be brighter, last longer, or both. Did someone give me a snow job?

Lewis.

********************************

Andrew Webster said:

Quoted message said:

They turn on their mounts very easily, so you're reaiming them a lot,
compared to the old Cateye mounts. Not that they turn on their own
so much as that operating the switch will turn them.

I'm not sure what you mean by the "old cateye mounts".

Is this the same bracket as the EL-300 (cateye web site doesn't make
this clear)? (having invested in an EL-300 bracket for four of my
bikes it would certainly influence me if the EL-500 were the same).

It's the same mount as the EL300. The old mounts (HL1500 eg.) the light
goes on from the rear, and there's a screwdriver needed to attach the
mount to the bars.
--
Ron Hardin
[email hidden]

On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

[email hidden] (Lewis Campbell) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (Andrew Webster) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (Lewis Campbell) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Having recently perchased an EL-500, I thought I'd chip in with my 2
cents worth.

Following a tip in another post I installed Lithium batteries in the
light. (which I found at a good price on E-bay)

These batteries put out about 1.75V as compared to the Alkalines,
which put out about 1.5V.

In my opinion, this light works quite well and is a noticeable
improvement over both my EL-110 and my EL-300.

Unfortunately the beam pattern is in the shape of the Cateye symbol
and I think it would be better if it was a circle. Maybe they wanted
to advertize to spy satelites how many people use their product?

Lewis.

I infer from this that the EL-500 is voltage dependant in a way in
which the EverLED bulb isn't. If it is brighter with lithium
batteries then I presume it will be dimmer with NiMH or other
nominally 1.2V rechargeables. Do you have any experience with this
that would confirm or confute my inference?

Thanks

Andrew Webster

*****************************************

I'm sorry, Andrew, but I am an electrical dunce and have not done any
testing with other types of battery.

Since the Lithium batteries put out more power, I assumed they would
be brighter, last longer, or both. Did someone give me a snow job?

Lewis.

********************************

Lithium 1.75V, alkaline 1.5V, NiMH 1.2V is the approximate maximum
voltage of each cell.

In the absence of any fancy electronics the higher the voltage the
brighter the light (Lithium batteries also have higher capacity, so
last longer, but that is a different issue). So in a simple light
lithium batteries should give more light.

The light may have some sort of voltage regulation built in to make it
work optimally with different voltage batteries (or to cope better
with changes in voltage as batteries are used up), if this is the
case then you may not be getting grater brightness from your lithium
batteries, but you will still be getting longer life.

Andrew Webster

Ron Hardin <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

Andrew Webster said:

I do prefer to use rechargeable batteries. Do you have any experience
of these in your array of EL500s?

I'm using NiMH. I haven't tried anything else.

That's useful to know. It sounds like I should be investing in one of
these as a spare.

[email hidden] (Andrew Webster) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (Lewis Campbell) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (Andrew Webster) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

[email hidden] (Lewis Campbell) wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...
> Having recently perchased an EL-500, I thought I'd chip in with my 2
> cents worth.
>
> Following a tip in another post I installed Lithium batteries in the
> light. (which I found at a good price on E-bay)
>
> These batteries put out about 1.75V as compared to the Alkalines,
> which put out about 1.5V.
>
> In my opinion, this light works quite well and is a noticeable
> improvement over both my EL-110 and my EL-300.
>
> Unfortunately the beam pattern is in the shape of the Cateye symbol
> and I think it would be better if it was a circle. Maybe they wanted
> to advertize to spy satelites how many people use their product?
>
> Lewis.
>
I infer from this that the EL-500 is voltage dependant in a way in
which the EverLED bulb isn't. If it is brighter with lithium
batteries then I presume it will be dimmer with NiMH or other
nominally 1.2V rechargeables. Do you have any experience with this
that would confirm or confute my inference?

Thanks

Andrew Webster

*****************************************

I'm sorry, Andrew, but I am an electrical dunce and have not done any
testing with other types of battery.

Since the Lithium batteries put out more power, I assumed they would
be brighter, last longer, or both. Did someone give me a snow job?

Lewis.

********************************

Lithium 1.75V, alkaline 1.5V, NiMH 1.2V is the approximate maximum
voltage of each cell.

In the absence of any fancy electronics the higher the voltage the
brighter the light (Lithium batteries also have higher capacity, so
last longer, but that is a different issue). So in a simple light
lithium batteries should give more light.

The light may have some sort of voltage regulation built in to make it
work optimally with different voltage batteries (or to cope better
with changes in voltage as batteries are used up), if this is the
case then you may not be getting grater brightness from your lithium
batteries, but you will still be getting longer life.

Andrew Webster

*************************************
Thanks, Andrew.

BTW, no pun intended here, right? :-) >>>So in a simple light
lithium batteries should give more light.<<<

Lewis.

***************

Ron Hardin <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

If you want bright, you won't be happy with the EL500. It's much better
than the EL300 though, and you can certainly ride with it on a
dark, pothole-free road with no problem. The road surface will
go invisible if there are many competing lights though.

I have 3 of them on my handlebars - I just added two and like the
size and construction and the battery life, which makes it possible
to make it home without rationing the light - and ordered a 4th for
a spare spot I think I can squeeze it in. Three of them is getting
up there in light, maybe 4 will do it. $40 at bikeman.com

Just tried two Super Spot headlights (Planet Bike) and was very
pleased with the wide and bright light angle. On a dark alleyway, the
whole laneway is revealed. Thanks to your tip, I'll try 3 Super Spots
next. With the Super Spot ($25 each) small mount footing, it is
possible to mount a number of them on a handlebar, and some can go
upside-down, too. Using NiMH 1.2V rechargeables causes the light to
change, very slightly, to a greenish tint, but not adversely so. I
also use a 7-LED "LDG" LED in "flashing" mode, for visibility, but
this light is no longer sold. I prefer the LDG to a Lightman xenon
strobe light (the Lightman is said to be used for helicopter drop
zones.) The strobe gave me headaches.

The Super Spot headlight does not pan, but with its wide angle beam,
it was not necessary to do so. The Super Spot has an easy-off,
quick-on mount. I haven't seen anything slicker where the whole system
comes off in a small neat package, this quickly. Its plasticky mount
seems to have enough "give" to take road shocks, unlike the CatEye
EL300 which used a rigid plastic, and which EL300 was said to break
off, although that didn't happen to me.

Too bad the Super Spot didn't come with a helmet-mount, or an option
for a helmet-mount.

I would also prefer to see a 3-watt Super Spot on a camping headlamp,
with 3 AA batteries in a back-of-the-head pack, like the Yukon HL, but
lower, so the battery pack doesn't contact the bike helmet. Sure,
it'll last four hours use, but I can carry spare NiMH AA's easily.

Apparently, Princeton Tec and Petzl are bringing out 3-watt Luxeon
headlamps, according to several trade show attendees' posts in other
boards. So, it might be safe to assume that 3-watt and 5-watt Luxeon
bicycle headlights won't be too far off. I'd rather have one 3-watt
headlight than three 1-watt headlights on the bike. What about you?

Ron Hardin <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

If you want bright, you won't be happy with the EL500. It's much better
than the EL300 though, and you can certainly ride with it on a
dark, pothole-free road with no problem. The road surface will
go invisible if there are many competing lights though.

I have 3 of them on my handlebars - I just added two and like the
size and construction and the battery life, which makes it possible
to make it home without rationing the light - and ordered a 4th for
a spare spot I think I can squeeze it in. Three of them is getting
up there in light, maybe 4 will do it. $40 at bikeman.com

Just tried two Super Spot headlights (Planet Bike) and was very
pleased with the wide and bright light angle. On a dark alleyway, the
whole laneway is revealed. Thanks to your tip, I'll try 3 Super Spots
next. With the Super Spot ($25 each) small mount footing, it is
possible to mount a number of them on a handlebar, and some can go
upside-down, too. Using NiMH 1.2V rechargeables causes the light to
change, very slightly, to a greenish tint, but not adversely so. I
also use a 7-LED "LDG" LED in "flashing" mode, for visibility, but
this light is no longer sold. I prefer the LDG to a Lightman xenon
strobe light (the Lightman is said to be used for helicopter drop
zones.) The strobe gave me headaches.

The Super Spot headlight does not pan, but with its wide angle beam,
it was not necessary to do so. The Super Spot has an easy-off,
quick-on mount. I haven't seen anything slicker where the whole system
comes off in a small neat package, this quickly. Its plasticky mount
seems to have enough "give" to take road shocks, unlike the CatEye
EL300 which used a rigid plastic, and which EL300 was said to break
off, although that didn't happen to me.

Too bad the Super Spot didn't come with a helmet-mount, or an option
for a helmet-mount.

I would also prefer to see a 3-watt Super Spot on a camping headlamp,
with 3 AA batteries in a back-of-the-head pack, like the Yukon HL, but
lower, so the battery pack doesn't contact the bike helmet. Sure,
it'll last four hours use, but I can carry spare NiMH AA's easily.

Apparently, Princeton Tec and Petzl are bringing out 3-watt Luxeon
headlamps, according to several trade show attendees' posts in other
boards. So, it might be safe to assume that 3-watt and 5-watt Luxeon
bicycle headlights won't be too far off. I'd rather have one 3-watt
headlight than three 1-watt headlights on the bike. What about you?

[email hidden] (Lewis Campbell) wrote in message

Quoted message said:

I'm sorry, Andrew, but I am an electrical dunce and have not done any
testing with other types of battery.

Since the Lithium batteries put out more power, I assumed they would
be brighter, last longer, or both. Did someone give me a snow job?

Lewis.

********************************

Warning: Don't use lithium AA batteries in any unregulated LED system
because the Lithiums have a higher voltage. Furthermore, in low-draw
applications, the Lithium AA will NOT have any greater life than
regular alkalines or NiMH. I find 2200 MaH NiMH batteries
satisfactory.

One LED in my Yukon headlamp went stroboscopic after I used Lithium
AA's. Fortunately, the Princeton Tec Yukon headlamp came with a
lifetime guarantee.

Here's my experience with batteries/lights, number of hours before the
LED started dimming substantially, approximately.

Yukon headlamp with 3 LEDs on: 12 hours on 1700 MaH NiMH, 3 AA

Yukon headlamp with 1 xenon bult: 4 hours on 1700 MaH NiMH, 3 AA

Super Spot (1-watt LED): Alkaline battery was 1/2 depleted according
to my "battery fuel gauge" after 4 hours, using 4 non-rechargeable
alkaline AA's

My recommendation? Use NiMH rechargeable batteries. I could not
observe any brightness difference in the 1-watt Super Spot headlights
whether 1.20V NiMH or 1.57V alkalines were used.

[email hidden] (Lewis Campbell) wrote in message

Quoted message said:

I'm sorry, Andrew, but I am an electrical dunce and have not done any
testing with other types of battery.

Since the Lithium batteries put out more power, I assumed they would
be brighter, last longer, or both. Did someone give me a snow job?

Lewis.

********************************

Warning: Don't use lithium AA batteries in any unregulated LED system
because the Lithiums have a higher voltage. Furthermore, in low-draw
applications, the Lithium AA will NOT have any greater life than
regular alkalines or NiMH. I find 2200 MaH NiMH batteries
satisfactory.

One LED in my Yukon headlamp went stroboscopic after I used Lithium
AA's. Fortunately, the Princeton Tec Yukon headlamp came with a
lifetime guarantee.

Here's my experience with batteries/lights, number of hours before the
LED started dimming substantially, approximately.

Yukon headlamp with 3 LEDs on: 12 hours on 1700 MaH NiMH, 3 AA

Yukon headlamp with 1 xenon bult: 4 hours on 1700 MaH NiMH, 3 AA

Super Spot (1-watt LED): Alkaline battery was 1/2 depleted according
to my "battery fuel gauge" after 4 hours, using 4 non-rechargeable
alkaline AA's

My recommendation? Use NiMH rechargeable batteries. I could not
observe any brightness difference in the 1-watt Super Spot headlights
whether 1.20V NiMH or 1.57V alkalines were used.

[email hidden] (NLee1875) wrote in message > Nick Lee

Quoted message said:

Sparks, NV
carless since January 2000
member of the 5 digit club (over 10,000 bicycle miles each year) since YR 2000.

Congratulations, Nick Lee, for implementing the book, "Divorce The
Car" and saving yourself $6,000/year likely. You are possibly $24,000
richer today and healthier, and your health is priceless.

If you move to a hilly town, suggest you look into hub motors, as hub
motors can spin at 50MPH (no load) at 48V. Some hub motors can be
over-volted to 72 volts, and Gawd knows what speed. Braking will be a
real problem, but parachute-braking may be an option. With a trailer
full of batteries and a fast-charger, a cyclist can tour.

Saw a recumbent with a 1HP electric-motor trailer going uphill 25MPH,
owner said he had a 35 mile range, too. The trailer was made from a
low-profile streamlined car-topper sailboard carrier. He wasn't
pedalling uphill. However, I noticed his wires were melting, too small
gauge for the load, and he'll hafta double-up wires likely.

Didya read about a feller from Japan on a fully-suspended lightweight
Yamaha Li-On electric scooter doing a round-the-world tour with his
wife charging 6 packs, on a vehicle behind him -- that's service!

Also saw a 1970 Honda Passport, running on an E-Tek (Etek?) electric
motor with four 18AH batteries laid out on outrigger, like a BMW
flat-twin. This 48V Passport was popping wheelies and a motorcycle
mechanic witnessing the acceleration said the Passport was as
accelerating as fast as a '750. Range was 20 miles suppossedly. I'd
pull a cargo trailer with it, and try NiMH batteries, as single (not
multi-cell) 12-volt NiMH cells are now available.

Cheers!

[email hidden] (NLee1875) wrote in message >

Quoted message said:

Finally.. Cateye has the new EL-500 now.. If the same Cateye marketing guy that
overhyped the EL-300 when it was initially introduced, EL-500 will probably
disappoint as well.

Thanks for your great review of the PR Luxeon bulb. As far as postings
and reviews of the Cateye HL-EL-500 (HL-EL500?), this 1-watt Cateye
has the same allegedly prone-to-break bike handlebar mount. According
to one poster (or reviewer), if my recollection is correct, he/she
broke several Cateye EL-300 headlights' mount. I've owned many Cateye
headlights, and the plastic Cateye uses cracks when dropped, unlike
other, more durable plastic (rubberized plastic?) headlights, such as
Nite-Hawk and Planet Bike. Thanks again for your comments and user
report! Nicely done review, cheers!