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29er suspension fork, disk brake, and dropouts?

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20 February 2006
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23 February 2006
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dvt
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  1. I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  2. dvt said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?

    How much travel do you want? I haven't seen a 29er fork with a through
    axle (yet - they will surely come) but if you can sacrifice some
    travel a good suspension shop should be able to shorten the travel on
    a Marzocchi Shiver SC by an inch or so (you might want to hunt for the
    old 120mm travel model) to avoid tyre/fork crown interference, and
    with no brake arch you don't have that problem to contend with It
    should be as simple as adding a solid spacer under the bottom-out
    bumper, although I've never had my fork apart to see exactly how easy
    this would be.

    Kinky Cowboy*

    *Batteries not included
    May contain traces of nuts
    Your milage may vary

  3. dvt said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?


    fear of the statistically irrelevant is irrational. if you have any
    worries at all about standard dropouts, use a closed cam skewer and a
    serrated face axle. and don't file off the lawyer lips.

  4. "dvt" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and a
    suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts that
    most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would meet
    these specs?

    This is an inflammatory post, so please disregard it, but do you wear a
    helmet in your car?

    --
    Phil, Squid-in-Training

  5. jim beam said:


    dvt said:


    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?


    fear of the statistically irrelevant is irrational. if you have any
    worries at all about standard dropouts, use a closed cam skewer and a
    serrated face axle. and don't file off the lawyer lips.

    You know, even if you are unconcerned with wheel pullout, it is
    annoying when you have chronic disc rub issues because hard application
    of the brakes causes the axle to shift in the fork dropouts. I've had
    this problem with my 8" front disc brake on two different forks, and
    while it can be coped with, it seems like a needless thing to have to
    tolerate considering the solution is so simple.

    Chalo

  6. dvt said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?

    As a matter of fact, I spoke with Answer/Manitou, Marzocchi
    and Rock Shox about that only this morning.

    None offer 700C shock forks for 2006. Answer is linked in
    some way to some oem-only forks. No simple answer to your
    quest. We suggested our customer use a handmade fork and a
    wider tire.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  7. Phil Lee said:

    "dvt" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and a
    suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts that
    most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would meet
    these specs?

    This is an inflammatory post, so please disregard it...

    What is wrong with long, on-topic discussions? So what if they get a
    bit heated - that is what makes it interesting.

    --
    Tom Sherman

  8. A Muzi said:
    dvt said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes
    and a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing
    dropouts that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork
    that would meet these specs?

    As a matter of fact, I spoke with Answer/Manitou, Marzocchi and Rock
    Shox about that only this morning.

    None offer 700C shock forks for 2006. Answer is linked in some way to
    some oem-only forks. No simple answer to your quest. We suggested our
    customer use a handmade fork and a wider tire.

    Thanks for the answers, Andy and K. Cowboy. To Phil and jb, no thanks.

    Andy, I think I misunderstand your note. I'm pretty sure that Rock Shox
    is making one or two 700c suspension forks this year, but both have
    downward facing dropouts. Is that what you meant? Or did you mean to say
    that Rock Shox is discontinuing the 700c forks such as the Reba?

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  9. Kinky Cowboy said:
    dvt said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?

    How much travel do you want?

    I suppose 80-100 mm. I've never had suspension, but I'm interested in a
    cross-country style bike, and most of them come with 80-100 mm travel.

    Quoted message said:

    I haven't seen a 29er fork with a through
    axle (yet - they will surely come) but if you can sacrifice some
    travel a good suspension shop should be able to shorten the travel on
    a Marzocchi Shiver SC by an inch or so (you might want to hunt for the
    old 120mm travel model) to avoid tyre/fork crown interference, and
    with no brake arch you don't have that problem to contend with It
    should be as simple as adding a solid spacer under the bottom-out
    bumper, although I've never had my fork apart to see exactly how easy
    this would be.

    Interesting idea. So the keys to making this work are 1) ability to
    sacrifice 20-40 mm travel, 2) no brake arch, and 3) a way to reduce the
    travel. Of course, the other features are still important (disk tabs and
    secure wheel attachment).

    The answers lead me to believe that anything I put together will be
    completely custom. That is, I can't buy an entire bike with the features
    I want. In that case, the price may be higher than I'm willing to pay.

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  10. Chalo said:
    jim beam said:
    dvt said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?

    fear of the statistically irrelevant is irrational. if you have any
    worries at all about standard dropouts, use a closed cam skewer and a
    serrated face axle. and don't file off the lawyer lips.

    You know, even if you are unconcerned with wheel pullout, it is
    annoying when you have chronic disc rub issues because hard application
    of the brakes causes the axle to shift in the fork dropouts. I've had
    this problem with my 8" front disc brake on two different forks, and
    while it can be coped with, it seems like a needless thing to have to
    tolerate considering the solution is so simple.

    Chalo


    so how come that neither i nor about 20 disk mtb riding buddies who i
    know well enough for them to let me mess with their bikes, have ever
    seen or heard of this problem? [some of them are pretty hardcore riders
    too.] i'm not denying you've had issues with your machine, [you often
    report things the rest of us have never encountered], but seriously,
    where's the beef? there are hundreds of lurkers on rbt, so are they
    just too lurk to report?

  11. dvt said:
    A Muzi said:
    dvt said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes
    and a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing
    dropouts that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork
    that would meet these specs?

    As a matter of fact, I spoke with Answer/Manitou, Marzocchi and Rock
    Shox about that only this morning.

    None offer 700C shock forks for 2006. Answer is linked in some way to
    some oem-only forks. No simple answer to your quest. We suggested our
    customer use a handmade fork and a wider tire.

    Thanks for the answers, Andy and K. Cowboy. To Phil and jb, no thanks.

    how does the probability of disk braked wheel ejection compare to that
    of flying or driving dave? do you drive or fly? is your home protected
    against meteorite strike too?

    Quoted message said:


    Andy, I think I misunderstand your note. I'm pretty sure that Rock Shox
    is making one or two 700c suspension forks this year, but both have
    downward facing dropouts. Is that what you meant? Or did you mean to say
    that Rock Shox is discontinuing the 700c forks such as the Reba?

  12. Chalo said:
    jim beam said:


    dvt said:


    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?


    fear of the statistically irrelevant is irrational. if you have any
    worries at all about standard dropouts, use a closed cam skewer and a
    serrated face axle. and don't file off the lawyer lips.

    You know, even if you are unconcerned with wheel pullout, it is
    annoying when you have chronic disc rub issues because hard application
    of the brakes causes the axle to shift in the fork dropouts. I've had
    this problem with my 8" front disc brake on two different forks, and
    while it can be coped with, it seems like a needless thing to have to
    tolerate considering the solution is so simple.

    Like mounting the caliper off the front of the fork instead of behind.

    Why don't they do that?

    Ron

  13. dvt said:
    Kinky Cowboy said:
    dvt said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?

    How much travel do you want?

    I suppose 80-100 mm. I've never had suspension, but I'm interested in a
    cross-country style bike, and most of them come with 80-100 mm travel.

    Quoted message said:

    I haven't seen a 29er fork with a through
    axle (yet - they will surely come) but if you can sacrifice some
    travel a good suspension shop should be able to shorten the travel on
    a Marzocchi Shiver SC by an inch or so (you might want to hunt for the
    old 120mm travel model) to avoid tyre/fork crown interference, and
    with no brake arch you don't have that problem to contend with It
    should be as simple as adding a solid spacer under the bottom-out
    bumper, although I've never had my fork apart to see exactly how easy
    this would be.

    Interesting idea. So the keys to making this work are 1) ability to
    sacrifice 20-40 mm travel, 2) no brake arch, and 3) a way to reduce the
    travel. Of course, the other features are still important (disk tabs and
    secure wheel attachment).

    The answers lead me to believe that anything I put together will be
    completely custom. That is, I can't buy an entire bike with the features
    I want. In that case, the price may be higher than I'm willing to pay.

    According to my manual, the max tyre radius for a Shiver SC is 345mm,
    while a 60-622 tyre will be about 371, so you'd have to lose 26mm of
    travel. If you get a second hand Shiver SC 120mm (they cut the travel
    to 100mm from 2004MY, so you're unlikely to find a NOS one), that
    still leaves 94mm, ideal for XC. A fork of that age will want a
    rebuild anyway, so new seals and bushes can go in while you add the
    travel shortener. If you're lucky on e-bay, have a friendly machine
    shop and a local Marzocchi service centre, you might bring the whole
    customised fork in for under $300 and it will be as good as new.

    http://www.trails-edge.com/retail/bikeparts/forks-mtb29er.htm shows a
    Maverick 29er fork, which also meets your 29er/disc/through axle spec,
    at $620

    Kinky Cowboy*

    *Batteries not included
    May contain traces of nuts
    Your milage may vary

  14. jim beam said:


    Chalo said:


    You know, even if you are unconcerned with wheel pullout, it is
    annoying when you have chronic disc rub issues because hard application
    of the brakes causes the axle to shift in the fork dropouts. I've had
    this problem with my 8" front disc brake on two different forks, and
    while it can be coped with, it seems like a needless thing to have to
    tolerate considering the solution is so simple.

    so how come that neither i nor about 20 disk mtb riding buddies who i
    know well enough for them to let me mess with their bikes, have ever
    seen or heard of this problem?

    Perhaps your less demanding relationship with your machine extends to
    how wide open you set your brake's pads. I need lots of braking, so I
    set the pads close to the rotor. Perhaps your hub's clamping faces
    have more bite to them than mine do. (My Diatech Swinger hub has
    smooth anodized aluminum faces).

    I also use bolted skewers, which I fasten very tightly (I have broken a
    couple of them on installation). In my estimation, the skewers do not
    have to move at all for the wheel to be able to shift a small amount,
    if the hub axle has any play on the skewer.

    Chalo Colina

  15. Kinky Cowboy said:
    dvt said:

    I'm interested in a 29er (622 mm rim) mountain bike with disk brakes and
    a suspension fork. But I'd like to avoid the downward facing dropouts
    that most of the forks seem to have. Do you know of a fork that would
    meet these specs?

    How much travel do you want? I haven't seen a 29er fork with a through
    axle (yet - they will surely come)

    Mavrick

    but if you can sacrifice some

    Quoted message said:

    travel a good suspension shop should be able to shorten the travel on
    a Marzocchi Shiver SC by an inch or so (you might want to hunt for the
    old 120mm travel model) to avoid tyre/fork crown interference, and
    with no brake arch you don't have that problem to contend with It
    should be as simple as adding a solid spacer under the bottom-out
    bumper, although I've never had my fork apart to see exactly how easy
    this would be.

    Kinky Cowboy*

    *Batteries not included
    May contain traces of nuts
    Your milage may vary

  16. Qui si parla Campagnolo said:


    Kinky Cowboy said:

    I haven't seen a 29er fork with a through
    axle (yet - they will surely come)

    Mavrick

    I was there 4 hours ahead of you, with a supplier and a price. I fancy
    it will prove too rich for the OP's blood.

    Kinky Cowboy*

    *Batteries not included
    May contain traces of nuts
    Your milage may vary

  17. RonSonic said:

    On 20 Feb 2006 23:22:35 -0800, "Chalo" <[email hidden]> wrote:

    ...

    Quoted message said:

    You know, even if you are unconcerned with wheel pullout, it is
    annoying when you have chronic disc rub issues because hard application
    of the brakes causes the axle to shift in the fork dropouts. I've had
    this problem with my 8" front disc brake on two different forks, and
    while it can be coped with, it seems like a needless thing to have to
    tolerate considering the solution is so simple.

    Like mounting the caliper off the front of the fork instead of behind.

    Why don't they do that?

    Beats me (though we just had this discussion on another thread).

    Kentucky bourbon man "jim beam" claims front mounted calipers will not
    work due to the poor fatigue properties of cast metals in tension,
    though this would be easily resolved by using a forged lower fork leg
    and/or increasing the material thickness to reduce stress (at the cost
    of only a few grams of weight).

    --
    Tom Sherman

  18. Kinky Cowboy said:

    According to my manual, the max tyre radius for a Shiver SC is 345mm,
    while a 60-622 tyre will be about 371, so you'd have to lose 26mm of
    travel. If you get a second hand Shiver SC 120mm (they cut the travel
    to 100mm from 2004MY, so you're unlikely to find a NOS one), that
    still leaves 94mm, ideal for XC. A fork of that age will want a
    rebuild anyway, so new seals and bushes can go in while you add the
    travel shortener. If you're lucky on e-bay, have a friendly machine
    shop and a local Marzocchi service centre, you might bring the whole
    customised fork in for under $300 and it will be as good as new.

    Thanks for the info. I'll keep an eye on ebay and the like. If I do
    decide to pursue it further, I think I'll call or write Marzocchi to see
    if it's even possible to limit the travel of the Shiver. Of course, they
    might cover their butts and say it can't be done.

    Quoted message said:

    http://www.trails-edge.com/retail/bikeparts/forks-mtb29er.htm shows a
    Maverick 29er fork, which also meets your 29er/disc/through axle spec,
    at $620

    As you said in your other post, that's a little rich for my blood.
    Especially when you add in a $140-150 hub, since an ordinary hub won't
    work with that fork. I can get a whole 29er bike for a few more $ than
    that fork and hub!

    I just found another, similar option: White Brothers Magic 29 Fork for
    $800. http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp?part=115444&cat=160&brand=329

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

  19. Chalo said:
    jim beam said:
    Chalo said:

    You know, even if you are unconcerned with wheel pullout, it is
    annoying when you have chronic disc rub issues because hard application
    of the brakes causes the axle to shift in the fork dropouts. I've had
    this problem with my 8" front disc brake on two different forks, and
    while it can be coped with, it seems like a needless thing to have to
    tolerate considering the solution is so simple.

    so how come that neither i nor about 20 disk mtb riding buddies who i
    know well enough for them to let me mess with their bikes, have ever
    seen or heard of this problem?

    Perhaps your less demanding relationship with your machine extends to
    how wide open you set your brake's pads. I need lots of braking, so I
    set the pads close to the rotor.

    my hydraulic disk calipers are not adjustable. i can change their
    center, but that's it - i no option for having the pads run
    closer/further to/from the disk than the manufacturer's spec.

    Quoted message said:

    Perhaps your hub's clamping faces
    have more bite to them than mine do. (My Diatech Swinger hub has
    smooth anodized aluminum faces).

    I also use bolted skewers, which I fasten very tightly (I have broken a
    couple of them on installation). In my estimation, the skewers do not
    have to move at all for the wheel to be able to shift a small amount,
    if the hub axle has any play on the skewer.

    Chalo Colina

  20. Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman said:
    RonSonic said:

    On 20 Feb 2006 23:22:35 -0800, "Chalo" <[email hidden]> wrote:

    ...

    Quoted message said:

    You know, even if you are unconcerned with wheel pullout, it is
    annoying when you have chronic disc rub issues because hard application
    of the brakes causes the axle to shift in the fork dropouts. I've had
    this problem with my 8" front disc brake on two different forks, and
    while it can be coped with, it seems like a needless thing to have to
    tolerate considering the solution is so simple.

    Like mounting the caliper off the front of the fork instead of behind.

    Why don't they do that?

    Beats me (though we just had this discussion on another thread).

    Kentucky bourbon man "jim beam" claims front mounted calipers will not
    work due to the poor fatigue properties of cast metals in tension,
    though this would be easily resolved by using a forged lower fork leg

    duuude! have you any idea how much that would cost for a magnesium
    alloy??? [and you know that magnesium can only be worked at elevated
    temperatures, right?]

    Quoted message said:

    and/or increasing the material thickness to reduce stress (at the cost
    of only a few grams of weight).

    but why? rear mounting works fine. /and/ it's not just the fork but
    the caliper has to be considered also. suddenly, cost/weight has risen
    alarmingly and with no benefit.

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