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adjusting a rusted-into-place seat post

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01 / Original postadjusting a rusted-into-place seat postLikeableRodent · 21 Mar 2006 02 / This pagePosts 1–14Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #14evil-nick · 6 Apr 2006

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
21 March 2006
Last activity
6 April 2006
Original author
LikeableRodent
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Disc brakesSteel frames

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  1. Original post
    LikeableRodent
    Archived post
    #1

    A few months ago it was really snowy around here, so of course I had a
    lots of fun riding through/in the snow, etc. Once I was done I'd put
    my snow-covered unicycle in the garage, and the snow would then melt
    and dry off.

    Unfortunately that caused parts of it to rust, most noticeably on the
    part of the seatpost that's in the frame. While previously it was
    difficult (but possible) to adjust the seat height, now it's pretty
    much impossible. I could completely take off the clamp hold it into
    place and continue to ride around normally. That seat post won't budge
    one bit.

    I've doused it inside and out with WD-40, I've tried pounding it out
    from beneath using another seatpost, I've tried smacking the seat
    around until I was afraid of breaking my seat, and then I smacked it
    some more. That sucker is -stuck-

    So then, I have two questions:

    - Does anyone have a solution to unstick a rusted-into-place seat
    post? I'd like to let shorter people ride, but the seat seems to be
    permanently stuck at the height the I ride at (not bad for me, bad
    for others who would like to ride.
    - Any ideas on how to prevent rust in the future after riding in
    snow/rain?

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  2. joemarshall
    Archived post
    #2

    From the sound of it, it's so tight that clamping the post or frame in a
    vice isn't going to help? You might be able to do something clever with
    heating it up, but I'd suggest take the clamp off and leave it off. Go
    for a long ride, do some trials etc. After a bit it'll probably loosen
    up.

    The easiest way to prevent bad rusting is to keep your unicycle
    somewhere nice and warm and dry when you're not riding it, like inside
    in a cupboard. It might be worth washing it after riding in the snow,
    cos it'll get salt on it.

    Joe

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  3. Jim_Rob
    Archived post
    #3

    Check out Sheldon Brown's discussion;

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

    There is one other technique I've used but it only works if the seat
    post is Aluminum and the frame is Steel, since the two materials have
    different coefficients of expansion, Al being about twice that of
    steel. It involves liquid nitrogen, so it's really cool.

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  4. LikeableRodent
    Archived post
    #4
    Jim_Rob said:

    Check out Sheldon Brown's discussion;

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

    There is one other technique I've used but it only works if the seat
    post is Aluminum and the frame is Steel, since the two materials have
    different coefficients of expansion, Al being about twice that of
    steel. It involves liquid nitrogen, so it's really cool.

    Thanks for the link.

    15 Ways to Unstick a Seatpost said:

    For steel seatposts stuck into steel frames, where the problem is often
    caused by rust, penetrating oil can do wonders. If you don't have real
    penetrating oil, any light lubricating oil is better than nothing, but
    penetrating oil is made specifically for this purpose, and you should
    buy a can if you don't already have one.

    This sounds just like my problem, so I guess a trip to the hardware
    store is in order.

    If that doesn't work I think I'll ride down to the bike shop and see if
    they have any ideas.

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  5. LikeableRodent
    Archived post
    #5

    Silly me, I've already tried penetrating oil (WD-40).

    Hmm. Maybe the hairdryer is next.

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  6. theanswerisnt42
    Archived post
    #6

    You should use some good penetrating oil like liquid wrench, WD40 is for
    smaller stuff, and doesnt dissolve the rust like liquid wrench does.

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  7. dogfeathersvt
    Archived post
    #7

    I've got the same problem, for the same reasons. I've tried everything I
    could think of or find on the web. Now I've given up and I ride it
    around with no bolt in the seatpost clamp. Luckily it's adjusted
    right.

    A friend of mine got one loose by soaking it in penetrating oil, then
    beating on the side of it with a rubber mallet. So I bought a rubber
    mallet, but no luck for me. I think the reason the rust has such a
    strong grip is that it was a 22.2 mm post jammed into a frame designed
    for a 22 mm post.

    Something I read: As a last resort you can sacrifice the seatpost and
    save the frame: saw off most of the seat post, then very carefully
    hacksaw through it from the inside (the long way). Then supposedly you
    can grab it with pliers and sort of peel it loose from within.

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  8. unicyclistben
    Archived post
    #8

    Liquid Wrench, we use it all the time at my bike shop where I work for
    things like these

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  9. LikeableRodent
    Archived post
    #9

    Two bike shops, lots of penetrating oil, lots of twisting, lots of
    grunting, a vice, a pipe wrench, and a rubber mallet later...

    my seat post is still stuck.

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  10. Mikefule
    Archived post
    #10
    LikeableRodent said:

    Silly me, I've already tried penetrating oil (WD-40).
    /

    Quoted message said:

    Although it sometimes works for the purpose, WD 40 is not primarily a
    penetrating oil. It is a water dispersant. That's what the WD stands
    for.

    WD 40 has a largely unearned and semi-magical status as an all pupose
    cleaning, lubricating and mending juice. It's mainly just to get water
    out of electrical circuits.

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  11. Mikefule
    Archived post
    #11
    LikeableRodent said:


    my seat post is still stuck.

    Keep the seat *post *cold, and warm up the seat *tube *, by pouring
    boiling water onto a rag wrapped around it.

    The cold post will stay small, the hot tube will expand slightly.

    If you use applied traumatic percussion, use a single sharp positive
    blow with follow-through.

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  12. LikeableRodent
    Archived post
    #12
    Mikefule said:

    Although it sometimes works for the purpose, WD 40 is not primarily a
    penetrating oil. It is a water dispersant. That's what the WD stands
    for.

    WD 40 has a largely unearned and semi-magical status as an all pupose
    cleaning, lubricating and mending juice. It's mainly just to get water
    out of electrical circuits.

    Yeah, I had one of the bike mechanics give me that speech when I told
    him I used WD-40.

    Mikefule said:

    Keep the seat *post *cold, and warm up the seat *tube *, by pouring
    boiling water onto a rag wrapped around it.

    The cold post will stay small, the hot tube will expand slightly.

    If you use applied traumatic percussion, use a single sharp positive
    blow with follow-through.

    I'll try that.

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  13. trials_uni
    Archived post
    #13

    2 words...*Sludge Hammer.* nuff said*.*

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  14. evil-nick
    Archived post
    #14

    Blowtorch? Heat it up, metal expands, rust breaks... I've seen it done
    with lugnuts and disc-brake drums.

    I've a similar problem on my muni, the bolts on the seat clamp are
    frozen... But it's the right height for me, so I leave it there 😄

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