Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Advice needed on adjusting rear derailleur.

Started by Adriad Marshall · · Last activity · 10 posts · 3,400 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
5 October 2003
Last activity
8 October 2003
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Adriad Marshall
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  1. I'm trying to adjust the rear derailleur on my bike (Shimano Acer X in the rear, Gripshift shifters
    in the front, 21 speeds). I've done plenty of research on it, spent a few days on it, but all
    without success. Problem I'm having is, I can't get it to shift perfectly in both up and down
    (high/low) directions, on all 7 sprockets in the rear, and all 3 cogs in the front. The trouble
    areas are usually the middle gears (ie. 3rd or 4th sprocket from the smallest), or upshifting from
    the smallest gear. When I fine tune it so that upshifting is perfect, the downshifting develops
    problems; and vice versa. I've tried making adjustments to EVERYTHING; the barrel adjuster on the
    front grip shifter, the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur, the tension of the cable, the
    placement of the derailleur before the cable is pinned down, the H/L adjustment screws, the
    B-tension screw, the positioning of the guide pulley - everything.

    There are even times when everything seemed perfect, shifting was flawless in both directions, on
    all sprockets. But after cycling through all sprockets a few times, shifting problems developed as
    described above. This change in performance can only be due to the action of tightening and
    releasing the tension on the cable, through the act of switching gears on the gripshifter. But I've
    ensured the cable was tightened down very securely, and the cable, like all the other parts on the
    bike, appears to not be in a worn condition (the bike has only seen maybe a year's use). Any
    suggestions on finding a solution?

  2. Adriad Marshall <[email hidden]> wrote: SNIP
    : There are even times when everything seemed perfect, shifting was flawless in both directions, on
    : all sprockets. But after cycling through all sprockets a few times, shifting problems developed as
    : described above. This change in performance can only be due to the action of tightening and
    : releasing the tension on the cable, through the act of switching gears on the gripshifter. But
    : I've ensured the cable was tightened down very securely, and the cable, like all the other parts
    : on the bike, appears to not be in a worn condition (the bike has only seen maybe a year's use).
    : Any suggestions on finding a solution?

    Without question, you need to make absolutely certain the cables travel freely in their housings.
    Don't waste any more time on playing with adjustments. And, in any case, a year old bike should have
    all its cables stripped out, cleaned and lubed or replaced. It's amazing the difference just this
    act can make.

    I've fixed bikes where the owner paid top rates at the LBS for this exact set of symptoms not to be
    diagnosed.

    Hope this helps, cheerz Lynzz

  3. (Adriad Marshall) said:

    I'm trying to adjust the rear derailleur on my bike (Shimano Acer X in the rear, Gripshift shifters
    in the front, 21 speeds). I've done plenty of research on it, spent a few days on it, but all
    without success. Problem I'm having is, I can't get it to shift perfectly in both up and down
    (high/low) directions, on all 7 sprockets in the rear, and all 3 cogs in the front. The trouble
    areas are usually the middle gears (ie. 3rd or 4th sprocket from the smallest), or upshifting from
    the smallest gear. When I fine tune it so that upshifting is perfect, the downshifting develops
    problems; and vice versa. I've tried making adjustments to EVERYTHING; the barrel adjuster on the
    front grip shifter, the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur, the tension of the cable, the
    placement of the derailleur before the cable is pinned down, the H/L adjustment screws, the
    B-tension screw, the positioning of the guide pulley - everything.

    There are even times when everything seemed perfect, shifting was flawless in both directions, on
    all sprockets. But after cycling through all sprockets a few times, shifting problems developed as
    described above. This change in performance can only be due to the action of tightening and
    releasing the tension on the cable, through the act of switching gears on the gripshifter. But I've
    ensured the cable was tightened down very securely, and the cable, like all the other parts on the
    bike, appears to not be in a worn condition (the bike has only seen maybe a year's use). Any
    suggestions on finding a solution?

    I had the same problem on an XTR bike. Finally realized that the rear wheel was mounted crooked in
    the dropouts. It happens.

  4. I am about to try to tackle the same problem as well as rubbing on the front derailer on my MTB
    Specialized Hardrock. I have the same components as you and the bike has never shifted well. My
    girlfriend has a much older Specialized Hardrock with old Suntour derailers and it shifts
    flawlessly...Did you find any websites or books that might help me out? Maybe I can learn something
    with my problem that may give you some insight into your problem. Thanks Rob

    Quoted message said:

    I'm trying to adjust the rear derailleur on my bike (Shimano Acer X in the rear, Gripshift shifters
    in the front, 21 speeds). I've done plenty of research on it, spent a few days on it, but all
    without success. Problem I'm having is, I can't get it to shift perfectly in both up and down
    (high/low) directions, on all 7 sprockets in the rear, and all 3 cogs in the front. The trouble
    areas are usually the middle gears (ie. 3rd or 4th sprocket from the smallest), or upshifting from
    the smallest gear. When I fine tune it so that upshifting is perfect, the downshifting develops
    problems; and vice versa. I've tried making adjustments to EVERYTHING; the barrel adjuster on the
    front grip shifter, the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur, the tension of the cable, the
    placement of the derailleur before the cable is pinned down, the H/L adjustment screws, the
    B-tension screw, the positioning of the guide pulley - everything.

    There are even times when everything seemed perfect, shifting was flawless in both directions, on
    all sprockets. But after cycling through all sprockets a few times, shifting problems developed as
    described above. This change in performance can only be due to the action of tightening and
    releasing the tension on the cable, through the act of switching gears on the gripshifter. But I've
    ensured the cable was tightened down very securely, and the cable, like all the other parts on the
    bike, appears to not be in a worn condition (the bike has only seen maybe a year's use). Any
    suggestions on finding a solution?

  5. (Adriad Marshall) said:

    I'm trying to adjust the rear derailleur on my bike (Shimano Acer X in the rear, Gripshift shifters
    in the front, 21 speeds). I've done plenty of research on it, spent a few days on it, but all
    without success. Problem I'm having is, I can't get it to shift perfectly in both up and down
    (high/low) directions, on all 7 sprockets in the rear, and all 3 cogs in the front. The trouble
    areas are usually the middle gears (ie. 3rd or 4th sprocket from the smallest), or upshifting from
    the smallest gear. When I fine tune it so that upshifting is perfect, the downshifting develops
    problems; and vice versa. I've tried making adjustments to EVERYTHING; the barrel adjuster on the
    front grip shifter, the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur, the tension of the cable, the
    placement of the derailleur before the cable is pinned down, the H/L adjustment screws, the
    B-tension screw, the positioning of the guide pulley - everything.

    There are even times when everything seemed perfect, shifting was flawless in both directions, on
    all sprockets. But after cycling through all sprockets a few times, shifting problems developed as
    described above. This change in performance can only be due to the action of tightening and
    releasing the tension on the cable, through the act of switching gears on the gripshifter. But I've
    ensured the cable was tightened down very securely, and the cable, like all the other parts on the
    bike, appears to not be in a worn condition (the bike has only seen maybe a year's use). Any
    suggestions on finding a solution?

    could your chain, perhaps, be too thick? I experienced a similar situation and a narrower chain
    eliminated the problem.

  6. (ROBMURR) said:

    My girlfriend has a much older Specialized Hardrock with old Suntour derailers and it shifts
    flawlessly...Did you find any websites or books that might help me out?

    There's your answer... Suntour was always better than Shi(t)mano, but didn't have the wherewithall
    in business to captalize on that. See users.globalnet.co.ukpage35.htm

  7. Quoted message said:

    I am about to try to tackle the same problem as well as rubbing on the front derailer on my MTB
    Specialized Hardrock. I have the same components as you and the bike has never shifted well. My
    girlfriend has a much older Specialized Hardrock with old Suntour derailers and it shifts
    flawlessly...Did you find any websites or books that might help me out? Maybe I can learn something
    with my problem that may give you some insight into your problem. Thanks Rob


    From Robmurr: I got mine fixed last night. I lubed the cables and adjusted the high stop on my rear
    derailer(was way off) then shifted to top gear in the rear and backed out the ferrule? on the
    derailer to allow me some adjustment of the cable to fine tune it. I took all the slack out of the
    cable while in top gear and tightened the cable down. Starting shifting up and down nicely with only
    a little tweeking of the cable adjustment on the gripshift to stop any rubbing of the chain on the
    sprocket sides. Working great now. This bike was really set up bad from the bike shop I got it from
    when new..In fact when new it never went into top gear in the rear! Next bike I buy will be put on a
    stand while I watch everything being adjusted to my satisfaction before I leave with it. Thanks for
    the help Rob

  8. "Adriad Marshall" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    "]news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm trying to adjust the rear derailleur on my bike (Shimano Acer X in the rear, Gripshift
    shifters in the front, 21 speeds).

    Quoted message said:

    . When I fine tune it so that upshifting is perfect, the downshifting develops problems; and
    vice versa.

    Quoted message said:

    There are even times when everything seemed perfect, shifting was flawless in both directions, on
    all sprockets. But after cycling through all sprockets a few times, shifting problems developed as
    described above.

    2 common culprits: bent rear derailer cage or hanger, or friction in cable/cable housing. Friction
    usually reveals itself by slow upshifts when you have the downshifting set properly, the spring in
    the derailer can only overcome so much friction.

    Low-end indexed components like those are pretty marginal at best. They're hard to get perfect
    shifting from even when they're new and clean, when they get worn a little and dirty, they get
    temperamental.

  9. Garrison Hilliard said:


    (ROBMURR) said:

    My girlfriend has a much older Specialized Hardrock with old Suntour derailers and it shifts
    flawlessly...Did you find any websites or books that might help me out?

    There's your answer... Suntour was always better than Shi(t)mano,...

    Sounds like it might be time for me to put all my SunTour stuff up on ebay. Do others feel
    the same way?

  10. My stock road bike these many years (components moving from frame to frame) has Dura hubs, Sugino
    triple crankset, and Yes! : SunTour derailers.

    Don't put your SunTour stuff up on Ebay: use it! :-)

    Quoted message said:
    Garrison Hilliard said:


    (ROBMURR) said:

    My girlfriend has a much older Specialized Hardrock with old Suntour derailers and it shifts
    flawlessly...Did you find any websites or books that might help me out?

    There's your answer... Suntour was always better than Shi(t)mano,...

    Sounds like it might be time for me to put all my SunTour stuff up on ebay. Do others feel the
    same way?

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