in message <[email hidden]>, Adam
(') said:Hi All,
After many years riding a clapped out old,
second-hand-when-I-bought-it-as-a-penniless-student racer, I've finally
decided to buy a new bike :-) and, you've guessed it, I'm looking for
some advice.
It's going to be used for commuting every day, rain or shine, but
probably not much else. Obviously the advice on every "beginner's guide
to buying a bike" website is to get a hybrid - but I'd quite like to
get a bike with drop handle bars because:
- it's what I'm used to
- you can squeeze through the queues easier
- you go faster?? (e.g. due to riding position?)
My budget is roughly £300 to £500.
I've been strangely under- *and* over-whelmed by choice. I went into a
couple of bike shops and they both gave me the massive choice of their
£500 racer or, well, that was it. (Also, the Surrey Quays Decathlon is
just round the corner from me and I went in there and they do a racer
for £250. I'm scared it'll be really crappy though.)
Then I looked on the internet and found a whole host of bikes for
around the 300-500 pound mark, but this is where I get overwhelmed. How
do I pick one from many? For example 8 bikes here:
http://tinyurl.com/a7vvj
(Including a Smith UK Custom on offer which was recommended by someone
on this group a short while ago.)
Even the website of Evans Cycles (who gave me a choice of 1 in the
shop) has a whole load of bikes in my price range :-(
Claud Butler: San Reno; Criterium
These are remarkably OK for the price. Mind you, the Vicenza is even
nicer, and the Strada is rather astonishing value for money.
Quoted message said:Dawes: Comp Giro 200 2005; Comp Giro 300 2005 ("4 stars"😉
Saracen: Tour 2005 Bike ("4 stars"😉
Scott: Speedster S5 Triple 2005 Bike
Specialized: Allez Double 2003; Allez Double 2005 Bike
The Allez is nice, but remarkably heavy.
Quoted message said:Trek: 1000C 2005 Bike
How do I narrow it all down?
Well, first, don't miss the Giant OCR series. The OCR 3T is an
astonishing 29% lighter than the base model Specialized Allez and
substantially cheaper, too, despite the fact that they're both mainly
Sora equipped (the Allez does have a Tiagra rear mech).
Ride them all, see which you feel most comfortable on. Some things I
would suggest:
Comfort matters most: if two are otherwise equally good, get the more
comfortable - but get them adjusted to fit you before making that
judgement, because a bike that doesn't fit won't be comfortable. A shop
that won't adjust a bike for you to try isn't worth buying from.
Weight matters next: if two are otherwise equally good, get the lighter.
Ergonomics matters quite a lot: if two are equally good, one has Shimano,
one has Campag, get the Campag. I used to think you should avoid bottom
of the range Campag, but having watched a few beginners struggling with
Shimano's untrimmable shifters and accidentally changing gear when they
wanted to brake, I've changed my mind. Campag are sufficiently better on
the ergonomics that it's worth a good bit on the price. Mind you, for
anything but bottom of the range Campag, it will /mean/ a good bit on
the price.
Yup, I _know_ that's going to start a flamewar.
Quoted message said:Of course the trouble with internet buying is I don't get to size or
test-ride the bikes :-(
Don't buy a bike on the Internet. What you'll save is not worth it. If
you buy from a local bike shop, you'll get to try before you buy, you'll
get the size right, and you'll almost always get a free service after a
few weeks when things have had a bit of time to bed in. That's got to be
worth 10% on the price, probably more. And when you have trouble and
need help from your LBS, you'll already be a known face.
Quoted message said:I also talked to a guy at work who reckoned I might find a racer to be
too much hassle (maintenance-wise) and not that "sturdy".
OK, maintenance. Having an exposed transmission (which all racing-type
bikes do) is not wonderful in dirty wet conditions. You have to keep
things clean and adjusted, and even so transmission parts will wear out
and need to be replaced. You are going to have to spend an hour or so a
week looking after a nice fast bike if you're using it for commuting,
otherwise it isn't going to work very well. There is merit in a
flat-barred hub-geared bike for commuting. For commuting in the rain
there's merit in good full length mudguards. But a sensible bike is very
often also a boring bike, and although you will get wet and filthy
carving up commuter traffic on a racing bike in winter, although you
will have to do more maintenance, you'll have a lot more fun.
And as for 'sturdy', bollocks. Racing bikes which aren't sturdy enough
for regular commuting cost several times your budget.
Quoted message said:He mentioned
"hub" gear thingies and disc brakes being good (better in dirty, wet
city conditions) but I guess there're going to be out of my price
range?
Hub gears are better in dirty wet conditions, and can be a good thing on
a commuter bike. Disk brakes are better in dirty wet conditions, too -
but only for values of 'dirty' which include foot deep mud. If you
rarely encounter mud more than a couple of inches deep, disk brakes only
add weight. They're of no practical value on road, unless for some
reason (e.g. monoblades) you can't fit normal calipers.
--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
;; All in all you're just another hick in the mall
-- Drink C'lloid