All about cleaning

tumbleweed77 said:

After another thread of mine got turned into chain talk, i thought i'd just start a new one...

How do you guys clean your chains? with a brush or with one of those contraptions...? which brands are better (which brushes or which machine)? degreasers, grease....? what is "wax" for? I haven't heard of that before and found it bundled with cleaning kits... how much do you use? how do you apply it? how often?.... I want to know everything! (i'm a clean and organization freak)...please help the clean freak learn about yet another thing to keep clean... thx!!!!!!

Chain cleaner machines - some people love them, some hate them.

I clean my chain with the Finish Line chain cleaner and an orange based degreaser solution. It cost me about $20 US a few years ago, it's a no-brainer to use, and the chain is very clean afterwards. Park Tool makes a nice chain cleaner as well. Other brands are available, but I have no experience with them.

For me, wax is for candles. I use ProGold ProLink lube per the instructions on the bottle.

I use a soft drink bottle with Mineral spirit and give it a good shake then let it sit for a while before shaking again then rinsing with water. I then lube the chain with Finishline dry lube with Teflon and it does a great job. I use a KMC missing link which makes it much easier to clean the chain regularly.

nathanb74 said:

I use a soft drink bottle with Mineral spirit and give it a good shake then let it sit for a while before shaking again then rinsing with water. I then lube the chain with Finishline dry lube with Teflon and it does a great job. I use a KMC missing link which makes it much easier to clean the chain regularly.

Taking Campagnolo 10 speed chains off for regular clearning is an expensive exercise. Each time you'll need to buy a link chain segment.

How good are those KMC chains? Or do you only use the smart link?

nathanb74 said:

I use a soft drink bottle with Mineral spirit and give it a good shake then let it sit for a while before shaking again then rinsing with water. I then lube the chain with Finishline dry lube with Teflon and it does a great job. I use a KMC missing link which makes it much easier to clean the chain regularly.

Why do you bother rinsing with water? I understand why some people choose to use a water base solvent instead of an organic solvent, but if you are already using mineral spirits, it makes no sense to me to rinse with water. Mineral spirits will dry faster than water, and even if it is not completely dry, the mineral spirits would help to pull the lubricant into the chain, rather than repel the lubricant as water would.

I use three parts mineral spirits to one part Mobile One to clean and lubricate in one step. For my hybrid bike I use the SRAM Power Link and the soft drink bottle method (without the water rinse). After using the mix, I cap the bottle and let it stand so that the debris settles to the bottom. The next time I clean the chain, I carefully decant the mix into a clean bottle, leaving the dirt from the previous cleaning in the first bottle.

For my road bike (10 speed chain - no inexpensive method for multiple chain removals) I use a syringe to apply a generous amount of the mix to each link, wipe the chain clean with a rag, then reapply a generous amount of the mix, let it sit overnight so the oil is pulled into the chain and the mineral spirits evaporate, then wipe the surface clean with a rag. It takes about 10 mL per application (20 mL total).

I'm using a Park brand 'contraption' on my Campy chains. It's brain-dead easy and does a good job.

I use it about every two weeks (300-400 miles) with the park cleaning solution or a product by the name of Simple Green.

That 'contraption' is so easy to use I'm probably over-cleaning the chain. BTW, the park cleaning device has replaceable brushes/wiper sponge if that really matters.

After cleaning I oil with 30 weight non-detergent motor oil and a light smear of automotive bearing grease.

Next to clipless pedals and index shifting, chain cleaning devices have got to be the coolest thing to hit cycling since Eddy hung up his cleats.

tumbleweed77 said:

After another thread of mine got turned into chain talk, i thought i'd just start a new one...

How do you guys clean your chains? with a brush or with one of those contraptions...? which brands are better (which brushes or which machine)? degreasers, grease....? what is "wax" for? I haven't heard of that before and found it bundled with cleaning kits... how much do you use? how do you apply it? how often?.... I want to know everything! (i'm a clean and organization freak)...please help the clean freak learn about yet another thing to keep clean... thx!!!!!!

Hate to turn this into chain talk again but... a wipperman connex chain is the best investment I ever made for my bike. The easiest way to clean your chain (and your cassette for that matter) is to take it off the bike.

I re-lube after every second ride or so but clean thoroughly once a month or after a mucky ride in the rain. For a thorough cleaning, I clean the chain and the cassette with a nail brush and some citrus based degreaser. It gets the chain super clean. Then wash again with water and soap to remove the degreaser (re-lubing your chain over the degreaser is not a good idea 😉 ). Rinse and dry well, re-install and re-lube. The whole operation takes less than 30 minutes and your chain and cassette will always be clean and functioning well. The only tools you need are a cassette lockring tool and a chain whip. The connex chain comes off with just your fingers.

Pad

RickF - I dry the chain with a rag after rinsing. Depending on how dirty the chain is or how times I've used the white spirit I sometimes put the chain into another bottle with clean whitespirit and then let it hang until dry. You would be surprised how much muck does actually come off the chain when rinsing with water.

sogood - I use the KMC Z9000 on my training bike with a KMC missing link and it is a quality chain and I've been impressed with it. Have just purchased a KMC X10-93 chain with missing link for my new road bike that I'm building.

I note that there are detailed geometry on the outer plates with Campy 10 speed chains, surely they have some function, right? Does KMC chains offer the same level of compatibility?

sogood said:

I note that there are detailed geometry on the outer plates with Campy 10 speed chains, surely they have some function, right? Does KMC chains offer the same level of compatibility?

Put a KMC or Wipperman on and you won't be able to tell the difference. Other than you can pop the chain off without a tool to clean it.

Currently I use a Record chain on my road bike, as I needed a chain and it was in stock at the local LBS. Before this I had a Wipperman. No difference at all (performance wise), and I find the requirement to take the chain off to clean significantly less on a road bike than I do on my MTB.

--brett

I spray the chain w/WD40, wipe it down and lube it. Takes 2 minutes. I do it once a week.

bulaboy said:

I spray the chain w/WD40, wipe it down and lube it. Takes 2 minutes. I do it once a week.

Read somewhere that WD40 is not good for chains due to its solvent and other. Can't remember the details now.

I had a finish line cleaner which worked ok.. but never did a decent job cleaning the sides of the chain, and the reservoir was too small
... it would be just enough to get the chain wet but not enough left to actually wash it clean.

I just got a newer Park Cyclone cleaner.. I'm pretty happy with it. It comes with little rubber teeth to scrub the sides of the chain and the reservoir is much bigger.. enough now to clean one or two filthy chains thoroughly.

In terms of WD40, its fine. Decades ago it used to be an issue with motorcycle chains coz it ate o-rings, but I believe they reformulated it ages ago and its been fine since. Or maybe its the newer synthetic orings. I've used WD-40 on my Kawi chain and it has barely any stretch in it after some 13,000 miles... nothing to sneeze at given its a ZX-12R.

Anyway, never an issue for bicycle chains either way. Only real concern is it probably won't last as long as proper waxes.

sogood said:

Read somewhere that WD40 is not good for chains due to its solvent and other. Can't remember the details now.

The problem with WD40 is that it is designed to be a water deterrant (i.e. to prevent rust), but not a lubricant. It will work as a lubricant if it is applied before every ride, but it does not last very long.

I would never use WD40 on my chain as I know people who have on a wet ride and it didn't last all ride and caused problems shifting. Lubricant is designed for a specific purpose and it's not expensive given the amount you apply. Had heard somewhere that WD40 can also breakdown grease.

nathanb74 said:

I would never use WD40 on my chain as I know people who have on a wet ride and it didn't last all ride and caused problems shifting. Lubricant is designed for a specific purpose and it's not expensive given the amount you apply. Had heard somewhere that WD40 can also breakdown grease.

WD40 will break down greese, but so will Simple Green, mineral spirits, and just about anything else one might use to clean a chain.

I agree, though, that WD40 is not a lubricant. It is fine for spraying on metal parts that are going to be put away for the off-season so they do not rust, but that is the only thing it is designed to do.

I gather that RickF, but the way some say they spray their chain with WD40 I can just imagine the overspray going near the rear hub, BB or excess WD40 running off the chain and into the rear mech jockey wheels. I'm speaking generally here. Would rather use the right tool for the right job if you know what I mean.

In a recent article writtin in Mountain bike magazine they say using WD-40 is not good as it actually attracts water. Aside from the usual bike lube you can buy, they say that using a lightest weight motoroil works excellent and is very cheap compared to bike specific lube.

As for cleaning, I use a biodegradable degreaser and a plastic brush. If you have a bike stand or stationary trainer, set your bike on them and its easier to clean. Either way you have to get down and dirty.

Just make sure you dry off the chain and wipe off excess lube after you applied a coat of lube.

klam said:

In a recent article written in Mountain bike magazine they say using WD-40 is not good as it actually attracts water. Aside from the usual bike lube you can buy, they say that using a lightest weight motoroil works excellent and is very cheap compared to bike specific lube.

As for cleaning, I use a biodegradable degreaser and a plastic brush. If you have a bike stand or stationary trainer, set your bike on them and its easier to clean. Either way you have to get down and dirty.

Just make sure you dry off the chain and wipe off excess lube after you applied a coat of lube.

As far as I recall, WD40 is alcohol based, so I would assume that it does a good job removing all sorts of lubricants. And I once tried to use it as a chain lube replacement for a period and even though I gave it a good spray, it didn't even last a week before I saw rusty spots on the ! :eek:
I sometime spray the cogs with WD40, but come to think of it, I should really stop doing that!! I think the reason they sell WD40 as lubricant is that it contains Teflon dissolved in some alcohol, which sort of lubricates but really isn't really lubrication but ratter something that sticks to the surface and makes it more 'slippery'. Also as it is alcohol based, it can mix with water which leads to corrosion. A real oil based lubricant will not have these issues.

My old dad always recommended me to soak the chain in turpentine and leave it the night over. Always worked wonders. My friend used gasoline to clean his recently. I guess, as long as its not water based (which could lead to rust/corrosion issues), you'll be all right. And always use proper lubrication and never get detergents or baddies in any bearings or lubed parts.

Well, its a water displacer as someone else said so I doubt its alcohol based. Its fine as a cleaner, but doesn't provide the lube protection of a proper wax. I don't know about corrosion, but I haven't noticed any on my motorcycle.