Allen Key QR hubs - Orientation important?

Richard Bates said:

I have a question regarding allen-key style QR hubs:

My SON has been fitted for a couple of weeks and has had limited
mileage (less than 30 so far). It arrived with an allen-key fitting
which I have used since it seems to offer just a little more security
from theft.

However, when my bike was mounted in a workstand and I noticed a great
deal of vibration, especially when the lamp was on. Investigation
showed that the allen-key had worked loose, allowing a small amount of
lateral movement of the wheel.

It is possible that I didn't tighten it sufficently in the first place
(I don't have a torque wrench), but I am wondering if it is possible
that I have fitted the skewer (effectively a long bolt) and the nut
the wrong way round, such that the rotation of the wheel unscrews the
skewer?

Currently the skewer if on the non-drive side and the nut on the drive
side. It is not of the design that works as a cam - it is a simple
threaded design.

I've used these a lot in the past and always put the "allen key" side on
the left, where the handle of a QR skewer would go. There's more room
on that side at the rear of the bike. Never had any problems. Normal
tightness for mine was finger-tight then one full turn with the allen
key, but they were titanium skewers which stretch more.

Richard Bates said:

Currently the skewer if on the non-drive side and the nut on the drive
side. It is not of the design that works as a cam - it is a simple
threaded design.

I have mine the other way round (allen head on the right and knurled nut
on the left) and it has never come undone. I have them on my bike, my
wife's bike and on my tourer, all fitted the same way, and my bike has
discs so I think it's fair to say that the skewers are not particularly
susceptible to loosening.

But I do them up quite tightly.

--
Guy

Richard Bates said:

I have a question regarding allen-key style QR hubs:

My SON has been fitted for a couple of weeks and has had limited
mileage (less than 30 so far). It arrived with an allen-key fitting
which I have used since it seems to offer just a little more security
from theft.

However, when my bike was mounted in a workstand and I noticed a great
deal of vibration, especially when the lamp was on. Investigation
showed that the allen-key had worked loose, allowing a small amount of
lateral movement of the wheel.

It is possible that I didn't tighten it sufficently in the first place
(I don't have a torque wrench), but I am wondering if it is possible
that I have fitted the skewer (effectively a long bolt) and the nut
the wrong way round, such that the rotation of the wheel unscrews the
skewer?

Currently the skewer if on the non-drive side and the nut on the drive
side. It is not of the design that works as a cam - it is a simple
threaded design.

recommended torque is 8-10 Nm which is pretty tight, and orientation of
the skewer is not important

With unusual thin dropouts there might not be sufficient space between
axle and skewerface to include the conical springs

--
---
Marten Gerritsen

INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL
www.m-gineering.nl

Richard Bates said:

I have a question regarding allen-key style QR hubs:

My SON has been fitted for a couple of weeks and has had limited
mileage (less than 30 so far). It arrived with an allen-key fitting
which I have used since it seems to offer just a little more security
from theft.

However, when my bike was mounted in a workstand and I noticed a great
deal of vibration, especially when the lamp was on. Investigation
showed that the allen-key had worked loose, allowing a small amount of
lateral movement of the wheel.

It is possible that I didn't tighten it sufficently in the first place
(I don't have a torque wrench), but I am wondering if it is possible
that I have fitted the skewer (effectively a long bolt) and the nut
the wrong way round, such that the rotation of the wheel unscrews the
skewer?

Currently the skewer if on the non-drive side and the nut on the drive
side. It is not of the design that works as a cam - it is a simple
threaded design.

I use Tranz X screw-up security skewers the conventional way round with
nuts on the right and bits that take tool on the left, but I expect they
would work just as well the other way. One I use is with rear horozontal
dropouts--wheel is liable to slip in these if not very secure: it has not
done so.

Nice and tight is the way to do it, though I appreciate any concern about
breaking something (I don't know what they can take, frankly). Also, hub
cones need readjusting if using more clamping force than usual, to
compensate for the axle compression side effect.

Greasing the threads and under the rod head (if appropriate for your
skewer) will enable you to get it tighter, and skewers with nuts with
serrated faces (as the Tranz X* jobs have) are preferable to plain ones.

* eBay

~PB
.....who is missing out on a morning/noon bike ride thanks to Ribble
Cycles.....phone calls/letters trying to clam a refund from the ****s.

Pete Biggs said:

Nice and tight is the way to do it, though I appreciate any concern about
breaking something (I don't know what they can take, frankly).

Sounds like I simply need to give it a bit more force then.

Thanks to *all*

--
If, as Einstein said, space is curved and occupies ten
dimensions including time; How can you be certain which
is the underneath of a ladder? And how can you be certain
you haven't already walked under one next week?

Richard Bates said:

Pete Biggs said:

Nice and tight is the way to do it, though I appreciate any concern about
breaking something (I don't know what they can take, frankly).

Sounds like I simply need to give it a bit more force then.

Thanks to *all*

Make sure you are using a good quality allen key that fits snugly in the
hole at the end of the bolt - and that the bolt hole in not full of muck
(so the key goes in all the way) - or you can end up rounding off the
inside of the hole - like I've just managed to do with one of mine!

Julesh